When Mesa restaurant in Costa Mesa launched a few years ago, it did so with the secrecy of a speakeasy.
The owners of the restaurant launched an intrigue-building campaign by releasing tidbits about their new restaurant before posting signs or publicizing the contact information.
But now the place—in The Camp—has more of a hip lounge than an underground bar feel, catering to those with an interest in unique food. The owners are the same investors who own Habana across the street in The Lab anti-mall and Firefly in Studio City.
As the restaurant evolved, so did our eating style there.
When Mesa first opened, my husband and I made a deliberate search for the mythical place, finally finding the Baker Street entrance behind a nondescript solid wall facing the parking lot. We did not eat on the evening we first discovered the location. Instead, we merely had a drink and then talked with one of the owners. We were pretty astounded at the unique and suave looks of sure-fire sophistication—unlike anything else in Orange County.
Mesa is like a trio that plays harmoniously and in a cleverly sleek fashion. The entire center of the room is dedicated to a series of couches facing each other, beckoning with a promise of comfortable lounging. An entire space to one side of that features a long cocktail bar. Slightly elevated behind the bar, but open to it at the same time, are some comfy dining booths. Across the room, on the other side of the couches, is a full line of banquette-style dining tables with a couple of inviting fireplaces interspersed. I readily admit to loving that area.
In the later part of the evening, the mood of the entire place changes, and on beautiful nights the roof opens to the stars. It becomes a livelier place than during the rather seductive earlier dining hours.
Consider this a jewel for chic tapas-style food, keeping in mind that the word “tapas” does not translate into a parade of Spanish-flavored dishes, but rather an international march of hip gourmet tastes in smaller portions (though all of them are sufficient for two to four people to share).
Like the decor, the menu is unlike that of any other restaurant in our area, ultimately stacked with “must try” dishes, all of which appear so appealingly plated and then hold our interest as we sort through the tastes.
My first dinner at Mesa was with eight other friends and I came away raving about the event. Not only was the food a new experience for my somewhat jaded palate, but the way they’ve constructed the menu and the wine list to accommodate each other so well is really worth noting.
Our second dinner was with another foodie couple and, between the two meals, the many dishes we tried might be described as an embarrassment of riches.
The more-than-fashionable and broad-ranging wine list—with many wines under $50 a bottle—eliminates the need to bring your own wine. It’s extra education at terrifically friendly prices. Here are four of the truly interesting wines paired with our food: a 2007 Szoke Matyas Matraalja (Hungarian: Királyleányka grapes leaning toward a pinot grigio style wine), 2007 Domaine de Grangeneuve (Rhone white wine: viognier, roussanne and marsanne grape blend), 2007 Dingac (pleasingly lean Croatian red wine with a layering of cherry and mild mushrooms in the flavor profile) and a 2001 Lopez de Heredia (Rioja wine from the polite tempranillo grape).
With the Szoke wine, we had seared tuna with a slightly spicy edge; with the Rhone, an heirloom apple salad offering flavor matchings and textural interests of its own in the aged gouda, baby celery, Marcona almonds and crispy apple melange; with the Dingac, a plate of fine charcuterie and pickled vegetables; and finally, with the Rioja, breast of jidori hen amplified with roasted fennel and caramelized apple slices.
So many other wines have also been well-matched for us by the adept sommelier. I have to tell you that dishes like the mussels sprinkled with sea salt, fries dappled with fresh herbs, bacon-wrapped dates, Tuscan mushrooms with cheese slivers and truffle oil, sashimi of hamachi on ethereally crisp rice cakes, pancetta-wrapped prawns, a pizza topped with grilled squash or caramelized leeks and a burger to die for have all been so pleasing and all the better with more of those various wine tastes. This is a place of great interest if you are a true foodie and not just a pretender.
I think you should say hello to Andrew, the sommelier, and owner Peter Jaisal while you are there. You will enjoy their friendly spirit and attention to your enjoyment.
The restaurant is open for dinner and late night supper only (closed on Sunday and Monday). Mesa is at The Camp at 725 Baker Street (at Bristol), Costa Mesa, call (714) 557-6700.
Pool Party
We recently did the Sunday Pool Party and Terrace BBQ (continues through the end of September) at the Island Hotel and discovered another gustatory experience above and beyond what one expects of such perceived casual dining.
I shall leave the gourmet review until my next column, but right now this is my reminder that the aforementioned barbecue and swim time is all about summer fun for the entire family. The hotel allows family swimming for the next four Sundays from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. and the Terrace BBQ is from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. You will be sufficiently surprised at the epicurean effort in the salads and then more so at the delicious grilled lamb chops, short ribs, herbed chicken and sliders made with prime ground beef. Add a melange of interesting vegetables and a dessert table with made-to-order s’mores, strawberry shortcake, fresh berries, ice cream and cake with lavish complements.
Reservations are a must. Cost is $34 for adults, $12 for children 12 and younger, and the little ones younger than five years old are free. Island Hotel Newport Beach: 690 Newport Center Drive, (949) 760-4920.
Wine Mixer
Antonello Ristorante welcomes Ciro Cirillo to host a Taste of Italy Wine Mixer featuring eight of his favorite selections. Cirillo is the founder of the Mission Wine Co., which imports fine Italian wines. The event is Sept. 24 from 5:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. The price is $25 (plus tax) per person.
Eight wines will be poured and the tasting is followed by a “wine shop” retail wine offering, as well as an optional three-course dinner in the main dining room for $35.95 per person (plus tax and gratuity). Business attire is requested. Reservations are required, so call (714) 751-7153, or e-mail sommelier Steve Ebol at steve@antonello.com. Antonello Ristorante is in South Coast Plaza Village.
Anaheim Action
Mr. Stox Lounge in Anaheim is shaking up the weekdays from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. with a daily special.
n Mondays: Enjoy Monday night football on two high definition screens with sliders and garlic fries. What better way to start the week?
n Tuesdays: Wine tasting and an assortment of small plates all for $20. Each week, they offer a tasting of six different selections accompanied by tasty small plates prepared to match with the wines. Any wines you like can be purchased to take home.
n Wednesdays: This is shrimp night! Enjoy delicious shrimp served both chilled and in a warm scampi style. Mr. Stox offers a great selection of fruity white wines to complement the shrimp.
n Thursdays: Martini madness. In addition to half-priced martinis, one premium brand representative is on hand to offer enticing elixirs created to promote their brand. Usually, they provide give-aways as well.
n Fridays: Traditionally a date night that’s enhanced here via a good assortment of hand-passed flat bread pizzas, and your “date’s” first drink is complimentary when one of an equal or greater value is purchased. Great way to impress your favorite partner.
Mr. Stox’s Web site at MrStox.com has a complete schedule of the specific wines and brands that will be featured each evening. The restaurant is at 1105 E. Katella, Anaheim, (714) 634- 2994.
Chili Fest
The annual Hatch, New Mexico Chili Fest has become one of America’s tasting extravaganzas (it’s been going on for the past 34 years). We do not have to travel to New Mexico for the great chili experience though, since our Z’Tejas restaurant at South Coast Plaza has been offering its own version of the Chili Fest as a special culinary event for the past few years.
This year’s proceeds from the special menu benefit the Lance Armstrong Foundation, which is dedicated to fighting cancer. Guests simply order items from the special menu, available Sept. 8 to Sept. 27, and proceeds are automatically rolled over to the nonprofit. The goal is to raise $30,000 companywide.
Thousands of food fanatics show up in New Mexico to learn about the various chilies, how they can be used in cooking and to taste the various outcomes (sweet, bitter, sour, spicy, etc.) in a variety of dishes. At the Z’Tejas Chili Fest, you can have a meal seated in comfort rather than standing in lines and crowds and still learn a lot about the realm of chilies.
I am planning a story for a future column about a few chefs and their interesting off-duty lives and hobbies. At this time, I’ll just lead with the fact that executive chef Danny Stevens of Z’Tejas may be a wicked surfer by day, but he’s a real creator of savory dishes that wander through fine Southwest tastes by night—not all of them related to the flavors of chili peppers. As part of the chili fest/fundraiser items, a featured dessert is chili chocolate lime shooter, submitted in a separate recipe contest by Santa Clarita resident Merry Graham.
Don’t miss this food adventure! Z’Tejas: 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, (714) 979-7469.
Prime Burgers
As if Fleming’s in Fashion Island didn’t delight us enough with its roll-out of 100 wines-by-the-glass—and trio tastings at the cost of only one glass of wine—now they’ve hooked me on the just launched prime burger bar menu.
It all begins with a toasted brioche bun. The prime burger with cheddar cheese and bacon is $6 from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. and $12 thereafter. The sliced filet mignon burger with bearnaise sauce and mushrooms is $18; lump crab cake burger is $16, ahi tuna tucked in the bun is $12 and portobello mushroom burger with sauteed spinach and goat cheese is $10. They all come with a mini wedge salad and signature onion rings. Here’s an inside hint: Mini versions of these burgers are now passed free on Wednesdays from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m.
Their 5 for $6 ’til 7 cocktail hour has gotten really popular by offering five prime cocktails, five fine wines by the glass and five appetizers, plus those prime burgers, for only $6 each. What a bargain! Flemings, 455 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach, (949) 720-9633.
