ANTONELLO
1611 Sunflower Ave. (in South Coast Plaza Village)
Santa Ana
(714) 751-7153
It dazzled in looks and food at its 1979 opening and is still one of our most important and beautiful restaurants.
In keeping up with our changing attitudes toward food, items have been lightened by using more olive oil in lieu of less-healthy oils, less cream-influenced sauces and certainly less frying. The food has always been nicely presented, but I have trekked lately through a bunch of newly envisioned dishes and am so impressed with the sophistication in presentation and the supple blending of flavors.
This is a team on top of things, understanding well the balance that must prevail between
the classical Italian dishes and some forward-thinking plates. The kitchen is headed by co-chefs Gino Buon-anoce and Salvatore Ferrara, who work in tandem like a highly tuned machine. I’ve been at personal gatherings lately where they have received standing ovations.
Consider these new enticements on their menus: Car-paccio of octopus cooked and sliced ultra thin, drizzled with fresh lemon and olive oil, topped with wild arugula; pumpkin tortellini with mascarpone cheese and black truffles; combo of grilled salmon, swordfish, shrimp and scallops (grigliata di pesce) served with spaghetti dressed with garlic, olive oil and chile pepper morsels; and then, there’s the compelling plate of salumi misti comprised of thinly sliced porchetta (pork), aged San Daniele prosciutto, bresaola (air-dried beef) and fresh buttery mozzarella.
You must experience this if you are serious about finding out what deliciousness is all about in both the old beloved and the new visions on a plate. I appreciate so much the warmth and charm of owner Antonio Cagnolo and managing partner of Thad Foret, who have been personally coddling their customers for so many years, and they continue to make sure we leave smiling.
You will notice more relaxed uniforms for the staff: no more tuxes.
CANNERY SEAFOOD OF THE PACIFIC
3010 LaFayette Road
Newport Beach
(949) 566-0060
This restaurant—which is celebrating its 10th anniversary—was a diversion from owner Ron Salisbury’s group of El Cholo restaurants.
Here you have a chic dining room with a combo of scattered tables and booths, patios overlooking the water both upstairs and down, and a cocktail lounge and very classy sushi bar on the upper level as well.
The Cannery’s executive chef is Felix Salcedo, who has worked with this corporation since 1986. He has gained national recognition for his refined sauces and expert use of chilies, seafood and wild game and has, on some prestigious occasions, showcased his dishes across the seas.
For your dining diversity, contemplate the following appetizers: Pear raviolis (gorgonzola and grape companions), baked brie salad, crab cakes and the platter of shrimp and meats with peanut sauce. A great variety of fish and shellfish entrées are ever appealing. Do not miss the excellent bouillabaisse. Beef, lamb and chicken dishes are well represented. Try the short ribs with creamed white corn and root vegetables, rack of lamb, a fine steak or the decadent blue crab sandwich. There’s even a kids menu that puts others to shame and weekend brunch overlooking the Rhine Channel.
the CAT & THE CUSTARD CUP
800 E. Whittier Blvd.
La Habra
(562) 694-3812
There was a lot of buzz when it opened in 1979, especially in North County, where there were no upscale restaurants at the time.
The restaurant was recently updated with some streamlined wrought iron work, candles and mood lighting to make it more glamorous and a quaint new retail wine shop. A rustic sense extends throughout.
Romantic fireside dining beckons, jazz pianists play during dinner hours Tuesday through Sunday, and patio seating is prime territory.
Newer menu items with intriguing flavors include: Roasted beet and mache salad dashed with goat cheese and toasted walnuts; braised kurobuta pork belly with wasabi mashed potatoes and shiitake mushrooms; prosciutto-wrapped shrimp highlighted with mango beurre blanc and grilled pineapple relish; caramelized sea scallops escorted by cauliflower purée, and almonds/raisins/capers and a mere hint of curry oil.
My favorite might be the seared red deer (venison) and blueberry sausage serenaded by a cassis-port wine sauce and some delicate gnocchi. The stroganoff made with beef tenders, wild mushrooms and brandy cream sauce is dreamy as well. Preparations of duck, lamb, steaks and fresh seafood keep everyone interested.
The owner/chef is Creed Salisbury, and his wife, Terrilynn, is the hostess.
Creed was the Business Journal’s Chef of the Year a few years ago due to his attention-getting cuisine and penchant for amassing loyal customers. He changes parts of the menu seasonally. Some recent dishes that carried a wallop of taste: grilled Norwegian Salmon with balsamic beurre rouge, sautéed venison in a zinfandel and sun-dried cherry sauce and scampi Mediterranean-style with saffron rice and basil-scented squash.
CELLAR
305 N. Harbor Blvd.
Fullerton
(714) 525-5682
It’s old hat to say Cellar was designed by Disney’s Imagineers, but it was, in 1970. It remains downstairs in the historic Villa del Sol complex offering a California-French fusion cuisine.
When Ryan Dudley took ownership in 2004, he debuted a new, younger vision. His executive chef is Sean Nemetz.
Ideas for ordering: Buffalo tartar is the star among minced shallots, crispy capers and fried quail egg; creamy duck liver terrine comes wrapped in bacon and the requisite cornichons; braised Colorado lamb osso buco finds rosemary, garlic and orange accenting its sauce; brined pork loin joins seasonal veggies and caramelized shallot and whiskey demi-glaze; mac and cheese is perfumed with truffles. A new late-night menu features short-rib crepes and a Kobe beef burger with foie gras aioli, truffles and brie cheese on a brioche bun.
Pretty food embracing a farm-to-table concept and unique surroundings makes for a singular experience. The elegant surroundings are enhanced by soft lighting, cave-like walls, custom chandeliers, a couple of cozy fireplaces and immaculately set tables.
CLAY OVEN
15435 Jeffrey Road
Irvine
(949) 552-2851
This restaurant is continually evolving, representing a mélange of cultures that exist in Orange County. What a surprise to walk into this appealing Indian restaurant and find wild game entrées on the menu, which lately I have been relishing.
Décor is contemporary but still evokes a traditional Indian ambiance. Frank Gehry-designed light fixtures, walls of free-formed metal and a singular wall of exclusive marble and gold leaf tiles from Italy prevail. Neatly napped and attractively set tables make their own statement.
Pristinely fresh produce is used as they work with neighboring farmers to offer the finest ingredients for the seasonal Indian-style cooking. They get added points for sourcing wines that match so well with their flavors.
Owners Praveen Bansal opened Clay Oven in 1986 with the intent to introduce traditional flavors filtered through a contemporary perspective.
For vegetarians, there are16 menu selections, and gluten-free bread is offered.
Some of my faves: Center cut, tandoori-cooked venison chops with superb chutney; mango- and ginger-marinated baby back ribs from the tandoor oven (amazing); lean chunks of spiced lamb from the smoky clay oven finished in the wok with crisp vegetables (lamb jalfrezi); salmon glazed with a delicate coconut/mustard seed curry and the to-die-for creamy baby eggplant.
For dessert: Mango crème brûlée or caramelized bananas and walnuts. They do sport a pretty big menu, so everything Indian-tinged you crave is probably there.
the GOLDEN TRUFFLE
1767 Newport Blvd.
Costa Mesa
(949) 645-9858
Alan Greeley, also one of my former Chefs of the Year, has kept us permanently fascinated and up to date since he opened Golden Truffle in 1981.
The chef/proprietor has a remarkable approach to food, and his menu changes weekly. Alan has a love of the Caribbean and has spent ample time cooking there, so some sort of Island-style cuisine is usually in the mix.
Last year the restaurant began featuring a Last Saturday of Every Month Breakfast menu. And his Every Wednesday “Soul Food” offerings showcase three-course meals from a particular country.
Looking part international bistro, part wine chai and a bit Caribbean colorful, this place is rather casual in atmosphere and doesn’t deflect from Alan’s visionary food.
Here are some dishes I’ve tried: Crispy BBQ Kansas City-style pork belly; prime rib eye steak salad; fresh Louisiana shrimp and chips; Provimi calves liver with onion and bacon ragout; broiled moonfish with open-face green chili tamale; EI Rosario abalone dappled with yuzu ponzu sauce; fresh Dungeness crab, fettuccine with Meyer lemon essence, red chiles and coconut milk; calypso chicken and baked banana Alaska for dessert.
HARBOR GRILL
34499 Golden Lantern
Dana Point
(949) 240-1416
It’s now 28 years and counting for Wanda and John Hicks at this legendary oceanfront spot.
Back then, you could fulfill your dream of opening a restaurant with a small amount of family savings and unbridled hard work. They have been keeping pace in the restaurant world by refining their product, service and atmosphere over the years. Their son Keegan, after his degree in hotel/restaurant management, professional wine studies and a career with a national restaurant chain, became the managing partner a few years ago.
The venue’s food concept is driven by providing a variety of fresh seafood cooked over mesquite wood and enhanced with vibrant salsas, chutneys or spice rubs. Over the years the menu has evolved with the addition of unique, healthy and memorable flavors native to Japan (grilled scallops with citrus-soy glaze, miso-glazed sea bass in porcini mushroom broth), Thailand (salmon with red Thai curry) and India (swordfish with Madras-style broth). Rustic, spicy Cajun-inspired cuisine is popular (seafood gumbo mingled with smoked sausage, crawfish etouffée, fried oysters with Louisiana tartar sauce).
Chef Angel Fabian began his career as a line cook with the Harbor Grill in 1986 and eventually became its executive chef.
The interior and patio design creates a dining atmosphere that is inviting, comfortable and cozy, without pretense. Tasteful photographs, paintings and ceramic art provide subtle and pleasing touches. Colorful views of Dana Point Harbor provide a restful appealing backdrop to dining.
They have remodeled the interior about every five years, and the most recent interior renovation was two years ago.
HOBBIT
2932 E. Chapman Ave.
Orange
(714) 997-1972
Dinner consisted of nine courses when it opened in 1972; now its seven courses, and dining time has been cut down by about half an hour. Extensive renovating last year has produced a sophisticated new decor.
Prices have always been prix-fixe. Food used to be much heavier too but as decades passed, the fare began to keep pace with our enlightened dining sensibilities. It is still a one-of-a-kind experience.
The lounge opens an hour before dinner. Then Act I takes you down to the wine cellar for hors d’oeuvres and perusal of the evening’s menu. You also select the wine (or wines) you would like with your dinner. It’s then upstairs for Act II, the first three courses of the dinner (ordinarily a shellfish or fish course, followed by a fowl or light meat, and then a salad course). You are now invited to leave the table, enjoy a stroll on the patios or visit the kitchen.
Seated once again, Act III begins with a light palate-cleanser and then the main entrée, complete with accompaniments. The dessert finale can be accompanied by cognacs, brandies, specialty coffees and such, should you desire.
There is one seating nightly, $74-plus per person, and advance reservations are required. There are no ongoing menus. Preparations by owner/chef Michael Philippi are contemporary in presentation and cooking style.
Some entrée items on recent menus: prime filet (filled with exotic mushrooms, or wrapped in puff pastry with select garden fresh enhancements), veal loin and tarragon-crusted lamb.
L’OPERA
101 Pine Ave.
Long Beach
(562) 491-0066
Since it’s a bit of a trek to Long Beach, I’d let L’Opera fall off my radar until happily rediscovering its charms last fall.
Count this one in if you like the right balance of drama, warmth and friendliness in your surroundings. Marble columns and arching ceilings are met by walls of murals and large, colorful paintings. It’s actually quite relaxing with a fil-my sense of sophistication floating throughout.
Friends Tony Antonelli and Enzo DeMuro, a Brooklyn Italian and a Roman Italian respectively, created it in 1990. It has become even more gracious in style and certainly in farm-to-table mode of cooking over the years.
The executive chef, Walter Cotta, personally selects his items from fish and produce purveyors and markets every other day.
The owners say they have learned that people want to try and taste items before fully committing to a full-time relationship with the restaurant. Accordingly, a three-course tasting menu for $21 at lunch and $35 for dinner is always available so that potential long-term customers can taste their food and try their ambiance in an easy and affordable way. An Enomatic wine-serving machine provides two-, four- or six-ounce pours of premium wines, and that allows customers even better tasting and matching experience.
A Mediterranean-style flatbread is a nice starter with its slather of white bean hummus topped with ahi tuna tartar and tasty olives sprinkled around for added panache. The trio of meatballs is also a fine appetizer with a spicy tomato sauce and blue corn polenta beneath one, arugula-horseradish pesto dressing up another and a highly refreshing cucumber tartar sauce with a bit of balsamic syrup adorning the third.
Don’t miss the red and green tagliatelle pasta swirling around lumps of crab and black truffle shavings.
MAYUR
2931 E. Coast Highway
Corona del Mar
(949) 675-6622
We still reminisce about the first time we dined at Mayur, way back in the 1980s, seated in an intimate little nook with its table all draped in white that ended up filled to the edges with various dishes.
Anjou Kapoor is a hands-on owner who, along with her chef, has changed our perceptions of Indian cuisine. This is it: sophisticated fine dining featuring tantalizing and healthful food, overseen by a charming wait staff.
Along the way, Anjou has listened as her customers spoke of wanting to eat lighter and consume fewer calories. She and her chef since the beginning, Dharam Singh, reworked their recipes maintaining all the flavors, all the same spice and condiment necessities and cooking methods, but they cut out the heavy nature burdening some of the dishes and slashed calories. Indian spices have been known for their healthful properties for centuries and, with the calorie count clipped, we know that the best is before us.
The chef, incidentally, has been cooking professionally since he was 16. Though Dharam doesn’t have an academic background in the culinary field, Anjou was taken with his ability and passion for food when she first tasted his dishes. His cuisine relies on farm-fresh produce, fine meats and fresh, delicate seafood.
My meals begin with naan bread (keema naan filled with ground meat is swell) and a few traditional condiments that I know are going to enhance the meal: mango and/or tamarind chutney and perhaps a cucumber and yogurt raita. Go for the slightly smoky shrimp from the tandoor oven, tender lamb, fresh fish in Goan curry sauce and chicken in yogurt sauce for healthful entrées.
The restaurant used to be awash in pastels. Now colors are warmer and quite soothing.
MULDOON’S IRISH PUB & CELTIC BAR
202 Newport Center Drive
Newport Beach
(949) 640-4110
In 1974 Ron and Sindi Rae Schwartz opened this dreamy Irish eatery. They still operate it with General Manager Mary Murphy and their daughter Marissa Armstrong.
As various renovations were done over the years (some of them extensive), owners were careful not to lose the Irish integrity of the building. In 2000 the addition of a pub called the Celtic Bar was prescient. With eating habits changing, Muldoon’s was adding just the right element of casual but compelling fare in a lovely but unpretentious setting. This alternative section of the restaurant was meant to satisfy the needs of another generation of customers interested in late-night pubbing, terrific food and live music. From the outset the Celtic Bar has been a popular gathering place for business and personal groups and those of us on our own for a fun time out.
Food that is made fresh daily relies on ingredients from local purveyors as much as possible. Quality is their mantra in the selection of raw products. Eggs are organic and so is the chicken. The turkey is free range and roasted daily for sandwiches. Fish is delivered fresh daily. Beef is certified Angus.
Everybody knows that I’m a nut for lamb, so I relish the Irish stew or the lamb chops. Prepare to be quite impressed by the burgers and mini burgers.
Baking is done from scratch; soda bread comes out of the ovens at 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. Muldoon’s butter-crusted apple pie has taken
on a fame of its own. It makes the dark chocolate and caramel sauce for the ice cream sundaes.
NAPA ROSE
(in the Grand California Hotel)
1600 S. Disneyland Drive
Anaheim
(714) 300-7170
Just beyond its 10-year anniversary, Napa Rose boasts a superstar ex-Napa Valley chef, Andrew Sutton, who was at the forefront of turning Northern California wine country into a world-class dining destination. Then, in a Disney coup, he was convinced to move here to create the culinary side of Napa Rose.
Statistics alone speak well here. The dining program/menus, driven by a dedication to sustainability of farm and sea products, are ambitious, changing about eight times a year. The best cheeses are acquired by way of two staff members who are part of the American Cheese Society.
This is home to one of our area’s most ambitious wine programs, with more than 80 by-the-glass and more than 1,000 bottle selections. Sommeliers: 35 of the staff claim the title, with a quartet of them being advanced-level sommeliers. A beer steward adds more dimension to the restaurant-customer interface.
The Vintners menu (prix fixe) is changed every week, while the full seasonal menu is a joyful gathering of dishes to match with wine and that beckon to us. An admirable Forage Program finds them working with local sustainable farmers and with sustainable marine stewardship programs.
They combine unique products from smaller specialty merchants with absolutely best quality from larger suppliers.
This beautiful arts-and-crafts-style restaurant emits both a majestic and romantic quality as it wraps around a centerpiece exhibition kitchen. Hospitality of the highest order begins at the door. General Manager Philippe Tosques is a most gracious host who will set the stage for your exemplary dining experience.
PARKERS’ LIGHTHOUSE AND QUEENSVIEW STEAKHOUSE
425 Shoreline Village Drive
Long Beach
(562) 432-6500
With a $2.5 million makeover a few months ago and a new culinary vision, this oceanfront restaurant has taken on new importance. It was developed 28 years ago and has become the hub of a vital tourist destination doting on an iconic cruise ship and those vast ocean views.
The building has a contemporary and energetic new look and feel that fits today’s trends. Its culinary focus is on high-quality food. There are now three basic venues traversing this structure: The newly minted Queensview Steakhouse on the top floor, the more casual Parkers’ Lighthouse dining room, and a chic and sexy lounge. There are separate menus for these individual personalities, each with its own price point.
Queensview Steakhouse offers an elegant and refined setting flowing with warm ambiance and intimate seating areas. Live music adds to the atmosphere. The food represents their philosophy of sourcing sustainable products and seafood and treating it with the utmost respect all the way to our plate. Dinner is served only on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings in this dining room.
For everyday dining there’s Parkers’ Lighthouse. This menu is a global landscape of fresh fish and shellfish. Not too fussy, a lot of it is mesquite grilled and delivered in a modern atmosphere with nautical touches and breathtaking vistas.
Executive Chef Mark Porcaro has held top spots at some of the finest resorts and restaurants, garnering some prestigious awards. Chef de cuisine Jeff Thurston adds his noted abilities to the lineup.
Dishes you might be looking for: Thai coconut-lemongrass bouillabaisse (loaded with the requisite goodies), jumbo lump crab cake, filet mignon and King crab, Colorado lamb and steaks, chops and succulent lobster.
QUATTRO CAFFé
3333 N. Bristol St. #1201
Costa Mesa
(714) 754-0300
It opened in 1991 under the Armani Café name and transitioned into Quattro Caffé in 2001. The entire staff and management remained on hand, and we have known General Manager Dennis Silva and chef Miriam Ramirez for many years.
Portions of the menu change seasonally, taking advantage of the best available at the time. Some products are sourced from regions best suited for that particular food—veal from Colorado, sea scallops from Alaska, seafood from various waters, etc. Some of the seafood is flown in daily from Hawaii. I admire how they state their focus: “Eliminate the superfluous, emphasize the comfortable and acknowledge the elegance of the uncomplicated.” In tandem, Miriam and Dennis keep up with the food trends that are inspirational to them, maintain an atmosphere that is inviting and pristinely clean with a printed menu that is pleasing to the
eye.
One has to appreciate their attention to gluten-free and vegetarian items on the menu. Gluten-free dishes would include the insalata assortita (grilled chicken breast, warm brie, diced tomatoes and seasonal greens with a grilled panini garnish) and filetto ai ferri (8-ounce grilled filet mignon, with asiago mashed potatoes, sautéed asparagus and baby carrots).
Similarly, vegetarian options appear such as vegetable soup, the spinaci e carciofi (spinach and artichoke lasagne) and a pizza topped with five farm-fresh veggies and artisanal goat cheese.
Salads, panini-style sandwiches, authentic Italian pastas and pizzas are consistently appetizing, and the desserts are luscious.
QUIET WOMAN
3224 E. Coast Highway
Corona del Mar
(949) 640-7440
We recently spent a long evening with friends here once again. From the time the restaurant’s name was mentioned, I was happy to settle in for some quiet dining in the seductively charming surroundings. It has always had the outside aura of a sweet little getaway, perhaps in some faraway place. Keeping pace with the appealing exterior, this dining room and bar invite relaxation.
Newer restaurants now cram in as many tables as possible, while Quiet Woman remains dedicated to its big booths that hark back to a time when fine dining was relished and such comfort was paramount. Add food that we like, and it’s a win-win situation.
The birth date of QW is 1965. When the new owners, Lynne Anthony Campbell and Sean Campbell, took over in 1989, people were not ordering fine wine (anybody remember all that cheap chablis?).
The carpet was of the indoor/outdoor genre, and smokers were abundant.
But the Campbells caught up with the times quickly, and everything has been upgraded and refurbished over time. They even added the Little Woman next door, the answer to everyone’s busy life with its quickly available signature foods to take while on the run.
Now, Lynne—the executive chef—balances constant favorites on the menu with items that reflect changing tastes of diners. Her menu is best described as sophisticated, contemporary comfort food. For those who favor a good selection of fresh seafood, shellfish, steaks and chops, it’s a home run.
Do consider the cuttyhunk scallops that are caramelized and have a supporting cast of roasted red pepper cream and cilantro slaw. Also, consider the fine splay of meats on the charcuterie tray, the always-seasonal ravioli, tempura shrimp with a snappy Thai dipping sauce,
and free-range pork with an Asian-influenced marinade perfuming it dance nicely on the palate.
Along with the food, note that they now
hold a Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence.
ROTHSCHILD’S
2407 E. Coast Highway
Corona del Mar
(949) 673-3750
When it opened in 1977, I was teaching many cooking classes and one of them was in the kitchenware store nearby. The owner of Rothschild’s, Helmut Reiss, was supportive of cooking instructors and people spreading their culinary wings, even at home.
Rothschild’s was a deli-style eatery then, but by 1984 the dining area was expanded and a beautiful antique mahogany bar replaced the food display cases.
In 1994 Helmut retired and sold the business to his daughter, Heidi Patricola, who now operates the restaurant with her husband, Jim, and son, Miles. It has constantly grown to become the attractive and peaceful restaurant of today. In 2008 the exterior got a clean, modern Euro look, garnering them a beautification award.
Interiors diffuse a contemporary level of inviting sophistication with the paintings of local artists’ often on display.
A revamped menu includes lighter fare, such as lobster salad with citrus dressing, more fresh seafood selections and new ways with Italian specialties. Marinara-sauced meatballs filled with mozzarella cheese are so up-to-date and happily ensconced atop a bed of linguine. There are forward-thinking panini-style sandwiches for more casual meals; spicy sausage raviolis with bell-pepper sauce; shrimp, crab and mushrooms in a garlicky cream sauce over pasta.
For meat lovers the rack of lamb with the essence of sherry and basil calls out. Vegan and vegetarian alert: Selections are happily prepared, including gluten-free meals on request.
An upgraded wine list honors much of California with smaller selections from France and Italy.
ROYAL KHYBER
1621 W. Sunflower Ave.
(in South Coast Plaza Village)
Santa Ana
(714) 436-1010
No other restaurant ever swept into town with so much buzz about its beauty and romantic nature as this one when it first opened in Newport Beach in 1982. Writers waxed poetic about the diaphanous walls of silk that flowed from the graceful Indian arches, the gloriously tented ceiling and the multi-level areas that each exuded its own personality.
Owner/chef Arun Puri gathered writers and interested patrons and taught some cooking classes. He also educated everyone on the historical background of this food.
Segue to 1999, when Arun and his wife, Urmil, decided to move the restaurant to its current location in South Coast Plaza Village. Quite a different setting and yet just as graceful.
Now the ceiling is fitted with panels from a special place in India, the front door is also an honored artifact. A cursory glance shows a contemporary dining room with gorgeously set tables and with a thoroughly modern granite-topped bar, part of the latest renovation.
Arun has redefined his Indian food over the years to make it inherently more healthful. It was at least a decade ago that he began to cut down on the oil, use more health-friendly products, and work with hands-on growers and organic suppliers. All the tastes of the food are as authentic as ever, but it’s much lighter. Flavors from the charcoal-fired tandoor enhance vegetarian and vegan entrée, meats, fish and humanely raised poultry.
The curried goat is delicious, and the butter chicken and sustainably harvested fish done in a Punjab-style sauce are also favorites.
SAGE
2531 Eastbluff Drive
Newport Beach
(949) 718-9650
Owner/chef Rich Mead is right on target in his quintessential neighborhood restaurant. He does so many interesting things with food that we also consider it a destination restaurant.
The decor is absolutely spot-on in the upscale bistro genre. It has that friendly appearance with a certain level of seriousness wafting through via the pressed white linens, nicely set tables, large windows overlooking a garden-style patio and a professional wait staff.
Rich is keeping abreast of the trends by offering more small plates, which allows people to order more courses. Prices are also less, and customers like that. He was among our first farm-to-table advocates having been at the forefront of the launch of the Santa Monica Farmers Markets, Southern California’s most famed of the weekly outdoor markets. Rich still drives there before dawn to gather produce and other specialty items for the restaurant.
The platform is creative American cuisine, but Rich takes it along a few international turns. Asia peeks through in spring rolls plus short ribs with Thai influences, Mediterranean in the couscous and vegetables, Italian in the sauce on the Kurobuta pork and in the cioppino.
On the spring menu, the tastes of tangerine syrup, dates, pistachios, artisanal cheeses, exotic greens and chocolate dusting powder are integrated.
Wish I were there now eating his delicate sea scallops resting on a sweet pea puree with little taste sensations of tangerine beurre blanc, cippolini onions and pea tendrils adding their personality as well.
21 OCEANFRONT
2100 W. Oceanfront
Newport Beach
(949) 673-2100
The first restaurant in this historic location—with a gorgeous ocean view and tons of fine craftsmanship and polished wood—was Alley West, circa 1969. A few years later Hans Prager turned it into The Ritz, his stage for personal fame. Hans moved his restaurant to Fashion Island in the early 1980s, and this location became hometown kid Rex Chandler’s eponymous restaurant.
By 1991, with even more glamorous additions befitting the ongoing elegant beauty of the space, it became 21 Oceanfront. In 2001 local businessman Leo Gugasian bought it.
Interiors got a recent update, with plush carpeting, new artwork and seating, modified booths and bigger windows.
Menus are updated about three times a year with a nod to current trends while still honoring the traditional soul of the menu.
Escargot, fantastic crab cakes and mussels in garlic-tomato broth have my vote as appetizers. There are nine dinner salads. For a special treat, tuck into some delicate Russian white sturgeon caviar.
Pink abalone is on the menu, and I’m a big fan of their signature baseball-cut swordfish. Big meat eaters should relish the specially aged 21-ounce tomahawk steak.
Snappy Louisiana hints sneak in with the seared Cajun-spiced “black and blue” ahi. Running into red wild rice, a tumble of aggressively spiced linguine and an unexpected run of herbal essence with entrées—all of these and more keep the dining here lively.
VILLAGE MEDITERRANEAN RIM
123 Avenida Del Mar
San Clemente
(949) 361-8970
The concept embraces seasonally inspired cuisine making use of local and sustainable ingredients, with unique flavors and staples of the Mediterranean region as the main focus. Owner/chef Nour Tillo is ambitious.
In addition to the regular menu with its broad reach, we discover many more cultural dishes on the ever-changing daily menus. Nour blends in a modicum of current trendy nuances, but our hearts belong mostly to his deeply authentic foods from the shores of several countries.
He features game products from South Texas and fresh seafood from a choice purveyor. Organic, grass-fed, cage-free local products are sourced as much as possible. He has a reverence for healthful cooking, even in the methods of preparation. Kudos for wines that perfectly match his food endeavors.
I admit to a proclivity for tagines, the aromatically flavored stews of Morocco, and I often have them here. There are antelope, seafood, lamb, pork, chicken and vegetarian variations on the current menu. Slowly braised venison currently goes a bit Italian with a side of cloud-like gnocchi. Lamb shank, married to some tomatoes and chunky roasted vegetables, stands out with its harissa flavors—Tunisian mix of chilies, garlic, coriander and various other spices.
This is one of those places we call a gem, a hideaway, a romantic enclave. It has an intimacy that is sweet and calm. Forget a polished and perfect decorator style.
Walls are painted the colors of the sea, shelves around the smallish room hold colorful paintings. Ethereal lengths of fabric stream beneath the shelves. We catch glimpses of Nour and his staff cooking on the small open line at the back of the space. Occasionally he comes into the dining room and checks on his guests.
Eating doesn’t get more interesting than this.
ZOV’S
17440 17th St.
Tustin
(714) 838-8855
Zov Karamardian started her Iconic Tustin restaurant in 1987 and never slowed down. She made for herself with her culinary vision and growth attitude. Her husband retired from his career and came into the business. Her kids grew up and also joined in building their mini chain, which includes newer sister bistros in Newport Beach and Irvine.
The Tustin venue has added a convivial lounge in which to enjoy happy hour and cocktails, good music at designated times and even access to a full menu. It’s a nice alternative to dining-room seating. Take-out service has been ramped up, nearly doubling in the last year, with the realization that guests are seeking convenience and healthy and fresh items.
Amid this neighborhood feel, Zov’s enduring food philosophy proves its importance. Her food, updated quarterly, always takes advantage of seasonal freshness, and she’s always been keen on using highest quality ingredients.
Your taste buds might sing over the newly anointed pork tenderloin with pomegranate shallot sauce and candied walnuts or herb-crusted lamb loin with Moroccan spices atop vegetables and chickpeas. I think it’s that time of year when certain entrées will be sided with Zov’s luscious fresh sweet corn purée and tomato eggplant ratatouille, so look for these flavor treats.
I used to teach my cooking students to make little cheese-stuffed phyllo envelopes found as appetizers on tables in Middle Eastern countries, and Zov’s boregs are reminiscent, as is the grilled eggplant with baked olives, tomatoes and garlic. The menu is studded with plenty of meats and pastas, too.
