Make this a summer of new discoveries and of reconnecting with some restaurants you haven’t been to for awhile. The weather’s warm, so I’m perceiving these as small getaways lasting a few hours. I can make restaurant meals last for hours. In fact, it’s rare for me to have less than a three-hour lunch, and dinners often last five or more hours.
I relish taking my time and having great conversations with those sharing my table. I may have confessed in one of my columns that we had a guest from out of town recently and that five of us had lunch at Capital Seafood from noon to 4 p.m. We exited that restaurant, and the conversation turned to where we should go that evening for dinner. As we thought about the absurd situation—dinner would be in three or four hours—we nevertheless thought everyone should have a little something later on. We met again at The Winery at 7:30 p.m. and got home just before 1 a.m. Nine hours in restaurants in one day. My favorite way to live!
I would suggest that the true foodies among you get yourselves on the email list of whichever restaurants fascinate you. You’ll be notified of all their special events and hopefully of some good bargains.
Some of these restaurants are open only for dinner, but they still have afternoon happy hours with discounted prices on drinks and good samplings of food. Also, some now offer evening happy hours.
Patio dining, here I come, for as long as the beautiful warm weather lasts. Perhaps I will see some of you sitting nearby.
Beachcomber
15 Crystal Cove
Crystal Cove Beach, Newport Coast
(949) 376-6900 Breakfast, lunch, dinner
Beachcomber is a perfect fit for summer and for our beaches rimming the Pacific.
Smack-dab on the sand, completely open to the briny breezes, friendly and comfortable all around, it represents the best of completely casual dining, although the biggest surprise is that the food is way beyond what one would expect at such a venue. Call it gourmet-casual food, and if you don’t believe me, go yourself and be forever convinced.
This is a place where we always seem to bring along friends, because I want to taste and try so many things again. We can share enough dishes to keep our conversations sprinkled with Beachcomber talk for a long time.
Organic production is big in this kitchen. The Beachcomber utilizes produce, meat, poultry and fish that come from farms, ranches and fisheries guided by sustainability principles. A beach hangout with such high aspirations puts this on a top rung of the dining ladder.
Eat at any time of the day that works with your schedule, since they serve morning till night. Brioche French toast, corned beef hash (among the best you will find), steak chilaquiles, eggs Benedict, crab cakes and the croissant breakfast sandwich are some enticements for those out and about early. I give a thumb’s up to the farmers frittata that uses only egg whites but mingles mushrooms, roasted tomato and melting gouda. Ditto for the utterly delicious pancakes with macadamia nuts and coconut or blueberry and lemon zest cooked right in.
Check in for lunch, and I’m rather in awe at so many fine flavors and enchanting presentations. My list of loves is long. Appetizers, such as mini ahi tacos, grilled artichoke, roasted feta, baked “bleu” tomato soup (organic tomatoes, bleu cheese under a puff pastry hat—awesome!), are frequently delivered to my table.
Fish and chips, shellfish linguine and wild Scottish salmon wink at me. A couple of sandwiches have me wanting to run over there as I write: albacore tuna melt and the superb Maine lobster roll.
At dinner time, gorgeous sunsets are provided sans cost. They are worth a toast—hey, this beachside blessing also has a full bar.
Many of the lunch items are also available during dinner hours. Sometimes a swell salad or a tasty sandwich makes us happy in the evening. However, think of grilled diver scallops with chanterelle mushroom sauce, soy-glazed ahi, roasted country chicken and grilled swordfish, along with a few other seafood items. Meats are not forgotten. Pork comes in a hefty, juicy portion. There are some steaks, and everyone’s on a short rib kick, so they also hold court on this evening menu.
They do seasonal desserts that also bring sighs of pleasure. As with the main categories of food, quality sings.
Honestly, I cannot fathom anyone missing this while we are in our warm-weather mode. Furthermore, if you want to be a real foodie hero when someone from out of town is visiting, take them here and amaze them with how seaside-casual, incredible sunsets and gourmet food coexist so well. Finally, when you just don’t know what to give someone as a gift for almost any occasion, get a Beachcomber gift card.
The Cannery
3010 Lafayette Road
Newport Beach
(949) 566-0060 Lunch, dinner
The owner, Ron Salisbury, is a restaurant icon, renowned for the famous restaurants under his umbrella organization and for the many ways in which the public can meet literary and major sports figures, as well as other celebrities, at fundraisers held here. Part of his stellar stature in the industry is the food that has become part of the culinary history of Southern California.
This story harks back to the El Cholo in Los Angeles, still there since 1927. It was founded by Ron’s family, and he carries on the tradition, with an additional four El Cholos in SoCal since he took over. The Mexican food made from family recipes still forges the way for true South of the Border cuisine.
But this is about the newest of the breed in Ron’s restaurant group, The Cannery, which has been one of Orange County’s famed eateries for decades. Ron acquired it a few years ago. Its famed facade still evokes images of a fish-canning facility, which the property originally was. Inside, some of that history is also preserved but embellished with walls of waterfalls, lots of beautiful wood, chandeliers of hand-blown glass and an upper deck dining room. There also is a great place to gather called The Jellyfish Lounge, which features a sushi bar. We like downstairs dining, but this upper level is one of our favorite summer hangouts.
The restaurant is on the channel, with the aura of the waterway adding to the other charms of Cannery Village. In fact, just strolling that area of our landscape is never better than in the summer.
The chef uses only fresh, wild, line-caught fish, certified Angus beef, pristinely fresh sushi and sashimi varieties and produce from local farmers. It’s exciting just thinking about dishes piled with Louisiana shrimp, just-shucked oysters, and even more so when envisioning a mixed seafood assortment shared with friends.
A plethora of appetizers, such as crab cakes, are well represented and commendable. However, I often stray toward things like the lobster poutine, the Canadian take on embellished fries in which the sweet shellfish mingle with crispy fries and a drizzle of lobster gravy; or their grilled octopus; the very satisfying ahi tuna tartare; stuffed piquillo peppers or roasted mushroom soup. The clam chowder, by the way, is also first-rate.
Meat lovers are also comfortable, with venison steak wrapped in bacon, some prime steaks and free-range chicken.
One of the stars in the seafood realm is the diver scallop and suckling pig combo. Diversity, yes. Taste sensation, for sure. Lobster with hand-cut fresh pasta sings. This is the time to order Loch Etive ocean trout caught on the Western coast of Scotland, where fresh water and deep-sea waters merge. It’s arguably like salmon but with a very mild and clean flavor and moist texture. There are also tender sand dabs, halibut, swordfish, Skuna Bay salmon and bouillabaisse.
At lunch, many of the aforementioned dinner items are also available, along with several entrée salads, some with meat and seafood in the marriage. But there’s a fine burger too, a few other good sandwiches, and even a steak and egg sandwich. If you’re missing your East Coast lobster roll, find it here.
The Cannery has a prestigious Wine Spectator award for its cultured mix of American and global wines of distinction. For a great bargain, try a glass, from 16 choices, of the Saint M Riesling at only $8. Perfect with so much of the seafood. We should not forget that among the absolutes is its reputation for making amazing margaritas.
Canyon Neighborhood Restaurant and Bar
5775 E. Santa Ana Canyon Road
Anaheim Hills
(714) 283-1062 Lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch
Super chef Richard Mead represents the essence of chic farm-to-table dining and sustainably farmed seafood, meats, poultry and agricultural products. Many of you knew him from his Sage restaurants in coastal Orange County (he’s still looking for space to replace his closed Sage that was in Eastbluff). Mead gave North County this much-needed dining spot in 2010. The idea was for a grown-up neighborhood restaurant that was not a chain operation, a place with great food and a solid decor. The interiors incorporate lovely woods, granite and leather and specialized art. I love the naturalness of the wood piece over the pass-through to the open kitchen, a petrified wood host desk, and beautiful blown-glass lamps over the booths.
Most restaurants are very noisy, but this one benefits greatly from the time and money expended on controlling the sound levels. Think of it as an environment conducive to conversation yet lively enough to keep it fascinating.
Rich pays close attention to value pricing, taking into account the current economy.
He has long been intimately associated with the extensive Santa Monica Farmers Market, considered by many to be the best of that genre in the country. He has forged close relationships with the specialty purveyors who sell their wares, and he handpicks the best of the best from their selections. Back at the restaurant, he truly honors those items in dishes with soul. Textures, flavors and colors, contrasts of sweet and spicy, salty and sour, hot and cold, soft and crunchy, fascinate him. His food is unique, and Canyon is our go-to place for his opera of flavors mostly done in a light, healthy manner.
There are several enticing summer dishes. A gorgonzola and Granny Smith apple salad supplemented with dried cranberries, candied pecans and mixed greens is summer perfection. Panko-crusted fresh halibut as an entrée comes with an assortment of Asian vegetables and noodles, a fine marriage indeed.
Beef, lamb and a good assortment of fresh seafood and poultry appear as prime dinner entrées, but some of them also segue to the lunch menu. His herb-roasted half-chicken has always been a staple from his kitchens. Rich says he could eat it every night—and I’ve previously written that it’s the best roasted chicken I’ve ever had—golden brown and crispy atop a light pan gravy and with sides of creamy mashed potatoes and garden vegetables.
I like very much that Rich also pays attention to a good selection of small plates that give us the opportunity to taste more things and/or share morsels. And this diverse but lighter style of eating is ideal for dining on hot summer days.
Make a note about dessert: It should be the nostalgic root beer float with a hefty scoop of caramelized white-chocolate ice cream and chocolate chunk cookies on the side. The apple raspberry crisp with lemongrass-ginger ice cream is a close second.
Wines lean toward California labels, but there is a moderate representation of very affordable international labels.
The Sunday brunch is worth taking in. There’s a nice Bloody Mary bar and a buffet of sides to go with your entrée. Think home-fried potatoes, frittata, green salad, pasta salad, muffins, scones, salsas, and freshly made vinaigrettes.
Harbor Grill
34499 Golden Lantern
Dana Point
(949) 240-1416 Lunch, dinner, Sunday breakfast
What can be better than dining at the harbor with great views and ocean air?
No need for fashion-forward attire, just a hankering for terrific food—mostly fresh daily seafood—good service and friendly vibes.
There is a very interesting story here. This seaside icon is owned by John and Wanda Hicks and their son, Keegan. John has a background in regional management for a large seafood chain. Wanda worked for the same company, and that’s how they met. They opened Harbor Grill in 1984, the culmination of their vision to have a restaurant near a coastal or marina environment. They knew it would be about affordable fresh seafood simply prepared and steaks, distinctive hamburgers, unique tacos and wholesome salads. Today, we can even have premium cocktails and trendy libations.
Keegan took over as managing partner in 2007. He didn’t start at the top, though. He began with dishwashing duties when he was younger and worked his way through the kitchen and dining room and even bartended before finishing his degree in restaurant management and further studies at the Napa Valley campus of the Culinary Institute of America. He also has a passion for wine, and the restaurant has lots of good and affordably priced vintages. I so appreciate that this list, besides being easy to navigate, has many half-bottles and a good variety of by-the-glass choices.
Harbor Grill, in the heart of the beautiful Dana Point Marina, is all about comfort and coziness without pretense, whether dining inside or on the garden patio, where I naturally hang out in the summertime.
The chef is Angel Fabian, who began his career as a line cook with the Harbor Grill in 1986. The Hicks provided him the opportunity to attend numerous studies at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in Napa Valley. His sauces, salsas and uniquely flavored broths now reflect an international influence, including Latin American, Asian, Indian and Mediterranean.
When asked about some of his favorites, the chef reels off some particular appetizers, including white sea bass ceviche drizzled with fresh citrus juice and mingled with onion, serrano chile, cilantro, tomato, salt and the key ingredient of fresh Mexican oregano. It turns out to be a delicious, silky foil for the fresh and crispy tortilla chips. He then suggests the fried oysters, which arrive briny, fresh and plump with spicy cornichon tartar sauce on the side. They were sourced from the acclaimed Carlsbad Aquafarm.
The chef is enthused to parlay his recommendation for main courses, too. The soy-citrus scallop entrée is first up. The plate ultimately holds large scallops that have been marinated briefly in restrained amounts of fresh lime and grapefruit juices, sake, soy sauce and mirin before being sautéed. Then he suggests salmon with red Thai curry sauce. He makes his own curry paste—not too spicy—and it sings in this preparation.
They are famous for their carrot cake. It is a must on my personal list, and the moist, deeply flavorful cake with a classic cream cheese frosting just happens to be their best-selling dessert.
Las Brisas
361 Cliff Drive
Laguna Beach (949) 497-5434
Breakfast weekdays, lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch
This is probably the most famous place of all to sit with breathtaking views of the Pacific and miles of beaches, as well as Catalina. The rose gardens outside the dining room windows dominate the top of the cliff, which drops off dramatically to the ocean below.
The patio, enveloped with briny nuances drifting off the waves, is probably the most difficult seat to get in Laguna. It’s wildly popular year-round, but summery weather seems to make it even more so. However, because it is perfection, you might want to relax on a bench until a table becomes available.
Inside dining offers views from almost every table, but the tables nearest the expanses of windows are, of course, prime territory. The inside bar is also a dandy place for favorite drinks and genial conversations.
What many don’t realize is that this place serves an astounding breakfast buffet for $17.50 every day but Sunday between 8 a.m. and 10:30 a.m. Take a walk on the beach on a summer morning and then have Belgian waffles, eggs Benedict, customized omelets, French toast, an assortment of bacon and sausages, their signature picadillo beef crepes or Mexican lasagna. Freshly baked bread, croissants, small muffins and scones join all kinds of fresh fruits and organic salads.
On Sundays, there’s a $39 four-course, full-service brunch that includes the house champagne. Start with fresh fruit, then onto a salad or soup. There are many compelling entrées: crepes stuffed with fresh seafood and shellfish or free-range chicken, roasted Colorado lamb, filet and eggs, jumbo prawns and fresh vegetables in beurre blanc sauce atop pasta, some jaw-dropping seafood salads, trout and sand dabs.
The service is skilled and comes with just the right amount of friendliness, and prices are right. What shall they serve us for lunch or dinner? Well, the menu is somewhat centered on recipes originally plucked from 3,000 miles of Mexico’s Western coastline, but those recipes have been introduced to a dose of California creativity and thus should not be perceived as simply Mexican food. This food showcases the chef’s talents as he uses fresh and sustainable ingredients to deliver beautiful and tasty presentations that sometimes jump to other countries.
Both lunch and dinner menus begin with a margarita category listing 17 varieties. That’s a hint! Appetizers dance to many drummers. There are, for instance, tempura jalapeños; Japanese-style rolls stuffed with crab or salmon; crispy squid with roasted garlic beurre blanc; lobster cocktail; several salads; and a dandy gazpacho. We often entertain friends here and ask the chef to make us a combination seafood platter, which he surrounds with sashimi-type happenings, perhaps a poke tuna, some crab claws and shrimp or even lobster if requested. What a way to dine.
This is a stellar place for summery salads, from a lighter house version to various greens meant to mingle with fresh prawns, steak and chicken, and one with a glorious abundance of fish and shellfish in the mix.
Main dishes feature several Mexican specialties, such as enchiladas caleta, marquesa tamales and butterflied Angus steak with an enchilada on the side. Some Latin dishes: snapper veracruzana; petrale sole with crab meat; spicy wild prawns; halibut tomatillo; and Yucatan chicken with chile de arbol. Meat lovers are on solid ground with cuts of veal and some steaks.
Orange Hill Restaurant
6410 E. Chapman Ave.
Orange
(714) 997-2910 Dinner, Saturday and Sunday brunch
This is a restaurant that has over the years redone itself but garnered a first-thought reputation for its mesmerizing views. Why not, with its long history as a romantic hilltop hideaway with vast views of a generous swath of Orange County and beyond to Catalina? When the cities that stretch to the ocean light up at night, it’s still an awesome scene.
This place was famous when Orange County was still young in the dining scene. It aged gracefully as so many other restaurants opened, hanging on in our hearts as a dining spot with an irreplaceable view.
Summertime balmy weather fits here like a glove. Even the lively interior design could represent the vibrant colors of a showy garden.
Many people have asked me where to have brunch on Saturday. Here you can find an extensive brunch on both Saturday and Sunday. It’s an applause-worthy affair, with food stations and other reasons that make it a truly leisurely midday meal.
You might want to do drinks and small plates in their popular O Bar. Happy hour in the afternoons, besides evening possibilities, make this lounge something to seriously consider. The sophisticated space brings hand-blown glass chandeliers, fireplace and even handmade pillows to the scene. There’s live entertainment, too. They are au courant with the hottest new cocktails, although the famous drinks from the past glam era are also keeping pace in the popularity category. The sommelier is friendly and most helpful in choosing wine from the list, about 80% California wines. Wine flights are customized.
Walk past my table during dinner and appetizers, and you’re likely to see calamari tinged with gentle curry flavor, house-smoked salmon with hints of Grand Marnier and terrific pickled peanuts on the side. You could also see the trio of lamb (three chops dappled with an interesting sweet and peppery sauce), and maybe a few oysters on the half shell.
For entrées, this kitchen concentrates on steaks and seafood, with a nice selection in both categories. It also has a sustainable fish of the day, and highly regarded names like Skuna Bay salmon show a respect for fine quality. Miso-marinated sea bass is high on my go-to list, and the sweet flesh of lobster harvested from cold waters always beckons. A bowl of bouillabaisse catches the attention of my husband, Patrick.
Red meats cover several cuts of steaks, and where can you find chateaubriand (for two) anymore? Here it is, still carved tableside and served with the traditional accompaniments, including a classic bearnaise sauce. There are also prime rib and rack of lamb, short ribs and free-range chicken. They also remember the vegetarians and additionally offer gluten-free pasta.
I’m going back soon to this iconic spot for all that it offers. In your summer forays, think about magnificent views, fine food, great drinks, a nod to so much that makes this county special, and you will end up at Orange Hill, too.
Pescadou Bistro
3325 Newport Blvd.
Newport Beach
(949) 675-6990 Dinner only
This is one alluring French bistro, so like a beloved little eatery on a side street in Paris. It’s authentic in ambiance and food. It offers a soft and charming decor accented with alcoves, rich colors and a touch of Parisian nostalgia with framed prints lining the walls. The tables are set with white cloths and butcher-paper toppers typical of real bistros. The menu is inspired by the true comfort food of France, based on regional recipes. Listen to the many customers who are speaking French, and the authenticity is cemented.
The owners are French-born Jacques and Olga DeQuillien. Do any of you remember them from Mistral in Corona del Mar several years ago? They created Pescadou as a lovely little place that brings on relaxation and a sense of calm where food can be savored at your leisure. On a balmy summer evening, think of having a light dinner before or after the movies, a romantically Gallic evening or dinner with friends, because it’s fun, casual and friendly. They all slip easily into this little corner of France.
Jacques has long given us special food memories with his dedication to premium quality and comforting dishes. The food is prepared with respect to the traditional recipe, especially in dishes like coq au vin or beef bourguignon and cassoulet. To keep it interesting, sometimes he will add original dishes using French techniques but with seasonal, local products. He uses all-natural and organic products when available, with fresh seafood selected daily and meats from farms using all-natural methods.
The wine list features mostly French wines with a decent nod to California and Oregon. There’s also imported beer and wine-based aperitifs. Corkage is $20, but there’s no charge on Wednesdays.
The Fresh mussels are a winning appetizer. There is a quartet of preparations, but I am enamored of the ones that adhere to everything that’s classic in the dish: white wine, shallots, a little garlic and parsley, a touch of saffron. Jacques is famous for his treatment of escargot. They remain traditional-style and tender with their garlic-and-herb butter perfumed with a hint of pernod. Consider having the duck confit salad with its accoutrements of pear, walnuts and salad greens. The assortment of charcuterie is plated in camera-ready fashion.
As a main course, this is one of the few places that does a country-style braised rabbit with Dijon mustard sauce. Craving it now. However, one can work through iconic dishes, such as roasted duck breast with green peppercorn sauce, steak frites or some fresh fish of the day. With your protein choice, plan to have great seasonal vegetables and tasty sides like a fluffy pilaf and superb variations of potatoes. In true French fashion, cheeses are important to dining, and there’s a nice selection here. All of the desserts are homemade, and this couple highly recommends the floating island (yes!), chocolate mousse, tarte tatin and nougat glace.
There is a nightly prix fixe menu for $35 for three courses, with choices available for each course.
Jacques relaxes at home by cooking even more. He’s fond of simplicity and his grill. I’ve heard he’s good at grilling a nice piece of fresh fish with herbs from his garden or leg of lamb or a beef top sirloin that he’s premarinated for a good depth of flavor.
Ralph Brennan’s Jazz Kitchen
1590 S. Disneyland Drive
Downtown Disney District
Anaheim
(714) 776-5200 Breakfast, lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch
The joy, the jazz, the food, the authentic aura of New Orleans. This is the place par excellence if you want to get happy with food and entertainment.
Ralph Brennan, part of the famous Brennan family of New Orleans, is the namesake, and if you can’t find some enjoyable summer hours in this replica of a French Quarter building, then I don’t know where to send you. Besides, it’s situated in one of the most interesting strolling places in OC, with three hours of free downtown Disney district parking and an added two with validation from this restaurant and entertainment venue.
You will need to decide where you want to sit for your meal or drinks. There’s the lovely fountain courtyard; the Flambeaux Room with Louisiana jazz to go with your repast; the Queen’s Room, depicting the colorful energy of Mardi Gras; the Jazz Kitchen, evoking down-home casualness; an intimate wine room for up to 18 people; the parlor room, whose name speaks for itself; and the Jazz Balcony overlooking downtown Disney—and it has the perfect view of the fireworks display each evening.
For those who arrive early in the day, imagine the aroma, the taste, the tradition of freshly made beignets and coffee, served between 8 a.m. and 11 a.m. Nostalgia incarnate.
Lunch unfolds with a full menu of Southern comfort and a few nouvelle dishes, such as coconut shrimp. Choose from a trio of soups, including of course a gumbo ya-ya. Louisiana seafood/shellfish salad, po boy sandwiches, such as roasted pork and catfish, a burger, and a quartet of California-meets-the-South sandwiches beckon. Some of the dinner entrées are also available at lunchtime.
Dinner entrées reach into the classics of New Orleans: jambalaya; red beans and rice; Louisiana shepherd’s pie; real Southern fried chicken; blue crab and salmon (the fish is stuffed with crab); shrimp New Orleans with Southern barbecue sauce; and steaks. Crab cakes, grits with andouille sausage, great corn bread, fried green tomatoes, turnip greens with bacon and such are sides with soul. One should not think beyond bread pudding for dessert, as this version harks back to the spirit of old New Orleans. Pricing is moderate, with entrées at lunch in the $7 to $15 range and at dinner in the $18 to $30 range. Take advantage of the three-course dinner for $30 for a real bargain.
Sundays bring forth the experience of the midday (10 a.m. to 3 p.m.) à la carte buffet. There’s live entertainment, a Bloody Mary bar and an abundance of food, as the Southerners relish it for hours on end. Bananas foster, French toast, crab cakes and eggs, pork with biscuits and savory sweet potato join the traditional dishes already discussed and a bit beyond. Have to smile at the unique item called seafood angel hair pasta pancakes (which I have not tried!). It’s a mix of crab, shrimp and crawfish with pasta and tomato coulis done up in pancake fashion.
Finally, something the public may not know: When Hurricane Katrina hit, Ralph moved many families and out-of-work breadwinners here and managed to support many through this Orange County restaurant until his own restaurants were reopened. Bravo for being the face of the best in America.
Ruth’s Chris Steak House
2961 Michelson Drive
Irvine
(949) 252-8848
2041 S. Harbor Blvd.
Anaheim
(714) 750-5466
Lunch, dinner
At places like Ruth’s Chris, with various locations, you know what you’re going to get at the table because the menu follows a corporate guideline. However, we are talking about getting consistently fine food in our two locations—each different in its design—where the company has certainly managed to staff them with those who have the best ability to balance very professional service with genuine friendliness. We feel so at home; it’s a treat to have very comfortable seating that diminishes the stresses of the world outside while we rediscover so much good food.
The story of how Ruth’s Chris came to be goes back to 1927, when New Orleans entrepreneur Chris Matulich opened Chris Steak House. After many years, it was resold, with Ruth Fertel taking ownership in 1965. A fire destroyed the building in 1976, and within a few days, she relocated the restaurant to a nearby building she owned and renamed it Ruth’s Chris Steak House. She expanded with many more locations and in 1999 sold a majority interest. The restaurant chain went public in 2005.
We now have so many restaurants in Orange County to choose from that putting long-lasting, stable restaurants back in my personal mix is something I often remind myself to do. I have already made my “summertime list” that includes many in this novella, including Ruth’s Chris.
The Irvine location is sleek, with banks of windows for daytime airiness meeting rich, dark woods. As the sun goes down, a romantic quality takes over with the dimmed lighting and discreet noise level that encourages conversation. The spacious bar long ago became one of our comfort zones for having a cocktail and a meal when we wanted some smaller versions of the food.
The Anaheim restaurant was a needed addition to the sophisticated dining scene. It is more reminiscent of a lovely New Orleans structure. An indoor wall of used brick brings friendly warmth to the well-appointed dining rooms sporting soaring ceilings, superb lighting and interesting artifacts.
Its mantra is, “Quality is not a trend. It’s our signature.” It shows in the menu selections. Shrimp remoulade, New Orleans barbecue shrimp, veal osso buco ravioli and seared tuna are among the appetizers.
Seven signature steaks need no verbal embellishment except noting that your prime steak arrives on a sizzling hot plate (500 degrees), releasing its intensely meaty aromas throughout the meal. Cut into it, and the juices drip out, and the broiling perfection they’ve achieved is immediately apparent. The steaks share the menu with entrées of lobster, lamb chops, surf and turf, fresh fish selections, chicken and shrimp.
There are 14 sides to suit every whim, and some of these make up my occasional dinner at the bar. A few of these side orders are among the best ever foods I’ve tasted, as they simply cannot be done better by any restaurant. They include tempura onion rings, shoestring fries, sweet potato casserole, broccoli au gratin and asparagus hollandaise.
I always take my time, enjoy the company at my table, and allow a Ruth’s Chris meal to be a complete upscale dining adventure. There should still be time for coffee or tea and a stand-up dessert. For my finale, it’s usually that difficult choice of caramelized banana pie, bread pudding with whiskey sauce, or seasonal berries that come with a top hat of whipped cream.
Tamarind of London
7862 E. Pacific Coast Highway
Newport Beach
(949) 715-8338 Lunch, dinner
Tamarind of London spent $3 million to redo a former Cal Cuisine restaurant in a way that’s attractive yet not over-the-top glam, but it’s not easy for the public to understand why it took so much money. Simply, the kitchen had to be totally reformatted with certain equipment indigenous to the cuisine. In this case, authentic Indian fare served in beautiful new ways. That included the red tandoor ovens, an upside-down wok-style affair on which some delicious breads are cooked before our eyes, and a kitchen line that any chef would want.
The rest of the cash went into the big, hospitable bar, new seating (some booths, which are always my fave) and refined decor. Don’t forget that it sits in the Crystal Cove Promenade with those nice ocean breezes wafting in, so it is ideal for summer.
We had dined at Tamarind’s first restaurant in Mayfair, London, a few years ago when it was pretty new. No Michelin stars then, but the meal was still so impressive.
Almost two years in for our own Tamarind location, the original chef and general manager here are gone. The executive chef from London who’s responsible for elevating the restaurant to its current level of fame is now splitting time between the two continents. He and the new general manager have made noticeable changes.
Every credible culinarian agrees that the best Indian food, aside from the subcontinent, is found in London. On a small scale, but with true intent, we are hot on their trail with this team integrating the robust availability of local fresh and sustainable foods into classic dishes.
There’s no better appetite builder than the aroma of naan bread. One of its newest versions incorporates dates. But the goat cheese and onion naans are also addictive. I love having lunch here and ordering a mixed assortment of dishes that come in individual portions arranged decoratively. I am very into the distinctions among the dishes. Someone who had never had Indian food said to me that she’d heard all Indian dishes taste the same. That is really ridiculous, as is the perception that the cuisine is high on curries of the Asian nature. Completely untrue on both counts. So let’s go from there.
Starters for me: naan, for sure. Steamed Prince Edward Island mussels streaked with the flavors of coconut, ginger and a couple of Indian spices, and lamb chops marinated with raw papaya, ground chile, garlic, fennel and cream would certainly show up. Love the veggie dishes, and faves include vegetable khorma—seasonal vegetables in an onion-cashew-spiced yogurt sauce—and kadhai (fresh vegetables stir-fried with an onion-tomato sauce and finished with toasted red chiles, peppercorns and coriander seeds).
Mango, tomato and the perfume of coconut turn the sea bass tali macchi into something bordering on heavenly. Prawns masala feature a sleek sauce based on tomato and onion. Better known classics, such as butter chicken and braised lamb shank and beef vin d’alho, are on my repeat performance list.
There are also some terrific themed cocktails, and the wine list has been seriously curated to marry with this food adventure.
One has to personally experience this global restaurant that’s different and eloquently engaging to understand the full spectrum of fine Indian dining with refined service.
Vue – Laguna Cliffs Marriott
25135 Park Lantern
Dana Point
(949) 487-7555
Vue does much more than serve as a hotel dining room. It sort of glides under the radar, and if you’ve not experienced it, you are honestly missing a rewarding experience. There’s the destination-worthy food and one of the nicest outdoor dining decks around, besides a very appealing dining room.
I’ve been referring customers for a long time because it has the kind of menu and striking views that make a big impression. The food is so good, made from high-quality ingredients, and the menu offers somewhat unique items that tantalize the eyes and taste buds. Just the right amount of surprise on the plates make an impact on me every time.
My husband and I on one occasion gathered 30 foodie friends for an evening of fine dining because we’ve had a lot of pleasant meals at Vue. Everyone still talks lovingly about that evening and its food, the service and the charmingly chic decor. One couple had the chef recreate the menu items we shared so that they could introduce a large group of friends to the restaurant.
There’s anticipation for first-timers about what views might unfold when you arrive at the top of the hill where the hotel resides. The restaurant, with its glass walls, affords awesome panoramas from every table of lush green lawns and the grand Pacific.
The room itself is quite contemporary, with a sophisticated flair. There’s an aura of the tropics that suits the environment.
This is a three-meal restaurant with foods for every mood throughout the day. Of course, the morning meal lists the all-time classics built around eggs, pancakes and waffles, albeit with some fine meats, like the silkiest smoked salmon. But it is lunch and dinner that keep me most fascinated.
Many menu items are designated as “fit for you,” taking into consideration the many health considerations diners now address. There’s a bowl of flavorful yellow tomato soup at lunch or dinner. An ahi entrée salad bedazzled with hints of mango is another.
The thin crunch yielding to the tender flesh of tempura shrimp is always good; add a tasty side of sweet-and-sour slaw, and all of the taste buds are engaged. Crispy pizza topped with goat cheese and vegetables that have roasted just right in an ultra-hot oven is gourmet-casual food. A salad incorporating lump crab meat and shrimp makes a compelling summer lunch.
Patrick and I tend to have dinner most often due to generally busy daytime schedules. Keep in mind that I mentioned the little surprises in the food preparations. You will find some hints in the following dishes.
Love the appetizer of lemon risotto with lemon oil and olive tapenade waltzing with the rice. Short ribs come in an appetizer portion with porcini mushrooms, peas and a thread of truffle oil. Summer heirloom tomatoes make a refreshing first course, more so with the tomato sorbet.
Then we come to leisurely enjoyment of our dinner entrées and certainly some nice wine to go with them. Peruvian risotto relies on quinoa with a trio of vegetable tidbits. Tempura potatoes and porcini mushrooms adorn a coffee-crusted rib-eye steak. Sea bass with flavors of pineapple, saffron and artichoke, and Skuna Bay salmon with a grapefruit beurre blanc also speak to me.
A clever sandwich at lunch, a chef’s surprise dish of the evening, abundant menu items—there are many reasons to enjoy the Vue.
Wildfish Seafood Grille
1370 Bison Ave.
The Bluffs, Newport Beach
(949) 720-9925 Dinner
There are so many things that I like about Wildfish. This is a good place for patio dining. Easy seating, swell surroundings and just the right attitude.
The big bar commanding center stage denoted immediate friendliness when I first saw this restaurant a few years ago, around the time when it opened. Then I fell for the contemporary, urbane stylishness and interesting design elements, the semiformal table settings. It was an overall pleasing atmosphere that didn’t put on airs.
A waiter holding two very attractive plates of food glided by before we were seated. The first vibes were really good. They got better. On the way to our table, we passed the corner of the bar, and someone called out to us. It was a bartender we’d known from another restaurant. He came around to greet us personally and asked if we’d been there before. No, we said. His response: “You’re going to love it. I am so happy working here.” That was an exclamation point on what we were anticipating. All the while, the hostess waited patiently for us to stop chatting.
Let’s discuss meats first, since some may prefer protein other than fish. Several versions of steaks make it easygoing. The prime-grade steaks are aged 28 days for maximum flavor and tenderness. They can be simply grilled, dressed with a traditional sauce, such as peppercorn- cognac, or in classic combos, such as steak Oscar with fresh crab and asparagus draped in hollandaise sauce. Of course, go for a fresh lobster and steak combo, and you’re dining in really high style.
The seafood shines. Freshly shucked oysters; the ahi tuna tartare with a perfume of curry and sesame oil; and chunks of sweet crab are my loves from the seafood bar. One of everything could be my mantra about the appetizers. I want to be there right now eating fried oysters, Maine lobster tacos, salt-and-pepper shrimp, prime steak carpaccio, potstickers filled with pork and shrimp, and cashew calamari. Fuji salad speaks of summery goodness, with a creative mix of apples, baby beets, green beans, walnuts and a refreshing orange-ginger vinaigrette caressing it all.
The wine list is completely geared to great matches. The restaurant lists wines in each category, from least expensive to most expensive, so you don’t have to search and sort to fit your budget.
An entrée salad of Jonah crab, gulf shrimp, tomato, avocado and walnuts is a light, warm-weather choice. But we’re also faced with a menu section of fresh water and ocean swimmers, surely something for everyone. Preparations are interesting: Asian barbecue sauce on salmon; swordfish with Jonah crab and avocado; scallops sautéed with citrus; North Atlantic sole in a parmesan crust; sea bass steamed Hong Kong style. The latter two are among the best fish entrées in the past six months. These and the many other kinds of seafood can also be ordered in simpler fashion.
Desserts are seasonal, and this time of the year, fruits and berries appear. If we’re lucky, one day they will reprise the bread pudding with a browned meringue top that’s as good as it gets for that famed sweet.
