Trends are exploding all over the county. Yet another food hall concept is in the works, this one reportedly to be called Trade, which will open this fall on Michelson Drive in Irvine near the airport. The food hall will be flanked by two full-service restaurants, one of them Ootoro Sushi, a restaurant in Walnut known for its omakase and long lines.
Many of the vendors that have signed on for space in the food hall have a background as food truck operators who segued to brick-and-mortar buildings here in Orange County. We’ll keep tabs and report more later.
The county continues to birth poke restaurants, some reminiscent of Hawaiian casual dining. So if you love poke, do an online search for poke restaurants in your area and find one or more nearby.
Burger places are still popping up, one of the latest being the brand-new Hopdoddy at Tustin Market Place next to Bonefish Grill and Snooze. This one is out of Austin, Texas, and touts “fresh, all-natural angus burgers alongside Kennebec hand-cut fries, farm fresh salads and handcrafted milkshakes.” I haven’t been there yet—it’s on the list.
Other Tidbits
Right now, Ruth’s Chris Steak House is offering a filet and shrimp combo meal with a glass of rosé for only $30. And we all know how popular good rosé wines have become among wine connoisseurs. It’s served only in the bar Sunday through Friday.
We have a Ruth’s Chris in Irvine: 2961 Michelson, (949) 252-8848, and in Anaheim: 2041 S. Harbor, (714) 750-5466.
I like that Maggiano’s—corner of Bristol and Sunflower at South Coast Plaza—is still sending people home with a complimentary entree.
If you’ve missed the buzz, chef/owner Dee Nguyen is celebrating the 10th anniversary of his highly personal and widely acclaimed restaurant Break of Dawn. It’s a unique place with food like no other in Orange County. Dee was executive sous chef at our Ritz-Carlton resort for several years before he opened his breakfast and lunch place and gained his personal fame. Go to the Break of Dawn website and read the family story that led to and drives this restaurant. Reading about it and then eating there might change your life. 24291 Avenida de la Carlota, Laguna Hills, (949) 587-9418
Brunch Italian-Style
Pizzeria Ortica is now serving Sunday brunch—and what an interesting brunch it is. I have been busy telling many of our friends and arranging to have brunch there with them. Can’t wait to see their surprise when discovering that it is not merely a pizza and Italian pasta affair but instead an a la carte array of completely enticing—and rather international—items that truly distinguish themselves from competitors.
Terrific Bloody Mary creations and some additional custom libations are interesting midday beverages to accompany the food. Turn your menu sheet over, and you will find some nice wines and beers, too. Small Breakfast Buns arrive. They are not sweet but overflowing instead with San Marzano tomato flavor and lead the way for ongoing culinary surprises.
There have been many English muffins in my lifetime. These, without exaggeration, are the best I have ever had, an opinion shared by other friends who have already brunched with me. They are so light and delicate that I am bringing some home next time.
Braised Pork Belly slices sit in for bacon. House-made Fennel Sausage is very good. Stuffed Squash Blossoms are filled with freshly made lemon ricotta. Yummy. A bespoke Frittata deals out flavors of rapini, pancetta, potato and Parmigiano-Reggiano in the egg batter. I am a little crazy about the Wood Grilled Shrimp with some fried green tomatoes tucked alongside. A plate of Roasted Asparagus with speck, poached egg and Fontina Fonduta elicits more sighs. The Oven-Roasted Skirt Steak Sandwich is served on one of those English muffins and has added layers of taste via roasted tomatoes, arugula and horseradish essence.
Pizzas are in a little category of their own. The Margarita with the deep, unique flavor of San Marzano tomatoes and mozzarella is tasty simplicity. But the Ricotta and Mascarpone Pizza speaks a language of its own. It is halfway across the bridge to dessert with its smear of strawberry jam, droplets of cloudlike ricotta and mascarpone, plus melted mozzarella.
There is, of course, more to this menu than I’ve mentioned, and I feel confident that you, too, will be making return trips after the first visit. So many motivating dishes to choose from. Vegetarians also will find satisfaction here.
Ortica decided to set itself apart and has done so nicely. Divergent flavor profiles and palate-pleasing creativity march through this menu. Put this at the top of your Sunday bucket list. 650 Anton Blvd., Costa Mesa, (714) 445-4900
Fresh AnQi Bites
I’ve been hanging around AnQi at South Coast Plaza lately because of the new direction with the food. Some of the most popular items remain on the menu, but there are some new dishes making persuasive culinary music.
It began when my friend Carmela Du suggested that we and another friend should meet for lunch at AnQi. Carmela is a sophisticated diner, so I knew that we would eat well. That midday affair found us trying way too many dishes but relishing the tastes, and it made me want to introduce a colleague to this menu, as well. That accounted for another round of interesting tastes and some good culinary conversation. Now I am anticipating a dinner with several couples who I feel will appreciate the finesse of the dishes and the beautiful ambiance that has always been a trademark of AnQi.
The restaurant is part of the House of An group. I recently wrote in this column about the fascinating new book on the history of the An family’s migration from Vietnam and the subsequent fusion food and penchant for gorgeous spaces that gave the restaurants global attention. The group includes the famous Crustacean in Beverly Hills. Incidentally, Crustacean is undergoing a renovation, and yet another dining concept will open next year in its upstairs section. The current information that I have is that the new dining room will probably be a membership concept, very exclusive. More on that when it’s ready for unveiling.
Here are some of the orders, and reorders, that are keeping AnQi on my mind. Pork Belly Bao incorporates yummy, tender pork flaunting plenty of flavor peeking out from fluffy steamed buns; Corn Dumplings made the most of sweet summer corn stuffing beneath a silky saffron sauce; Crab Dumplings revealed sweet shellfish with yet another creamy sauce draped atop.
Misoyaki Butterfish is as good as a fish entree gets. The tender fish is painted with a Dijon-miso glaze that highlights but does not overpower the seafood, and the red cargo rice is a joy on its own. Add al dente broccolini, and eye-catching presentation meets high-society flavor.
Of course, its famed Garlic Noodles usually appear at my table, too—try them sometime with added lobster. We ended one meal with Popcorn Ice Cream with Blueberry Compote and another with a Chocolate Sea Salt Soufflé with green tea crème Anglaise on the side to pour into its middle.
There were other dishes, too, but let me plant these additional thoughts for things that are special. Stir-fried Mango Chicken, Duck Leg Confit with coconut-turmeric crepes, Tuna Tartare in mini taco shells, Beef Salad and so much more.
AnQi: 3333 S. Bristol (Bloomingdale’s building), Costa Mesa, (714) 557-5679
Chain Does Authentic
Fox Restaurant Concepts, headquartered in Phoenix, has a stable of 15 concepts in more than 50 locations, each with a totally different persuasion. In Orange County, True Food Kitchen at Fashion Island, which we’ve had for several years, is part of their corporation. A few months ago, we acquired North Italia at Park Place in Irvine. Think authentic and being happily embraced by our locals.
What’s fascinating to me is that none of the Fox restaurants seems like part of a corporation. We have tried many of their venues in the Phoenix and Tucson area: Wildflower, Arrogant Butcher, Blanco Tacos & Tequila, and Culinary Dropout among them. The names themselves indicate that there’s a sense within Fox that dining should be fun. It seems to strive with each new concept to make a community connection and a feeling that this is an individual restaurant meant to bring friendship dining with an edge of sophistication to the neighborhood. And it certainly has a good track record.
North Italia occupies a freestanding building that does evoke a feeling of Italy. The food embraces beloved dishes, such as airy but crispy-skinned pizzas (order the prosciutto pizza or the asparagus one topped with a fried egg); homemade pastas integrated with top-notch ingredients; and regional Northern Italian items that are all on target.
Strozzapreti Pasta with Bloomsdale Spinach, and Tagliatelle with Bolognese Sauce are two of its popular dishes. Squid Ink Mafaldine; Grilled Branzino; Radiatori (pasta) with short rib sauce; and tender Braised Meatballs in classic marinara sauce have solicited sighs at our table, along with some pizza goodness. I’m all in for another piece of the rich Chocolate Tart to finish off any meal. The Bombolini (Italian-style donuts) with lemon curd and mascarpone cheese also are a good choice.
The wine list is condensed but still delivers adequate possibilities.
This is not necessarily a quiet restaurant; it has more of a traditional trattoria vibe, but that provides an energetic edge. Also, it’s not always easy to secure a reservation. I’ve been told twice that “only 4:30 or 9 p.m. reservations are available,” when wanting to go to dinner with friends, but that indicates that the restaurant is very popular. Perhaps it’s a good reminder to show up for lunch or brunch.
2957 Michelson Drive at Jamboree, Irvine, (949) 629-7060.
