Though Salt Creek Grille in Dana Point is four years old, only now am I giving it column space. First of all, one person is no longer able to cover in a timely manner all the restaurants we have. And second, I felt when this restaurant opened that the menu needed to be reworked. That didn’t take too long to happen, but it took me longer to find time to try the menu once again. I am happy to say that lately I’ve tasted a lot of the food and they have certainly impressed me with the turnaround. Service was never a problem and the stylish good looks of this building were a plus from the outset.
The site itself has some historical significance. It is part of the late James Cagney’s estate. The Crown House restaurant resided here for many years. When two restaurant veterans, Pete Truxaw and Tim McCune, formed a partnership, they launched their company with a completely new restaurant that we find one of the most comfortable and inviting restaurants in the county.
The craftsmanship that was put into the building is very impressive. Rather than sheaths of stainless steel and cold, hard surfaces, Salt Creek Grille is resplendent with dark wood covering the walls and floors and used in the construction of the squared-off bar. The restaurant is spacious but has a welcoming feeling the minute you set foot in the door. I love the Craftsman-style lighting fixtures that are like the crowning touch here as they hang over the comfortable booths. Of course, you might want to sit on the lovely patio and smell the ocean while your cravings are sated. I really appreciate the hands-on approach of the owners. It is what the public is looking for.
The cuisine is classic American grill food. That means the menu concentrates on good cuts of steaks, along with chops and seafood. It is nicely rounded out with items like meat loaf, fried chicken atop a chopped salad, and some pasta dishes. The meat loaf is flavored with fresh herbs and finished with a red wine and mushroom demi-glace. The aforementioned salad comprises romaine, avocado, applewood-smoked bacon, tomatoes, corn and peppers and that fried chicken. The tangy honey mustard dressing is a nice accent.
The tumbleweed onion rings make a fine first impression. I like the thin-cut crustiness and the “browned” flavor they impart. A house specialty appetizer that should not be missed is the stuffed jumbo shrimp. These crustaceans are filled with sweet roasted garlic, wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon and mesquite grilled. Honey added to chipotle pepper puree makes for a delightful dipping sauce for them. The lobster and shrimp bisque is thick and rich and the tomato basil soup reeks of the flavor of fresh tomatoes and just-picked basil. Another nice starter is the seared rare ahi, which carries the flavor of Cajun spices and has an Asian-style dipping sauce on the side.
There are lots of good entr & #233;es and I have a rather hard time choosing favorites to tell you about. We had some seared Chilean sea bass that was most impressive. It was lightly dusted with sesame seeds, but also had been marinated in a buttermilk-sesame oil mixture. The flavors were so subtle and the searing over mesquite added yet another nice element.
Another terrific fish entr & #233;e is the loin of swordfish. It is also mesquite grilled, but finished in the oven. A light beurre blanc sauce tops it. I cannot think of a more complementary flavor for salmon than lemon. The chef mixes the essence of lemon with a touch of chile and coats the salmon before pan-searing it. There’s a generous dollop of Greek olive tapenade atop the presentation. Fresh Maine lobster is cooked with fresh sage, white wine and leeks and tossed with bow-tie pasta.
Meals in this season come, for the most part, with fresh Kentucky pole beans and roasted garlic mashed potatoes. Those would accompany the house specialty: a double-thick pork chop. It’s a 16-ounce center cut chop, seasoned with the chef’s secret mix and mesquite grilled. As if the meat weren’t good enough on its own, there’s a lovely homemade apple chutney on the side. Such a good meal.
I like the flavor of the tequila-lime marinade underlying the grilled chicken breast. The sliced meat is served atop saut & #233;ed red, yellow and green peppers. A half chicken carries the nice smoky flavor of the mesquite, since it is first baked to preserve the moisture of the meat, then briefly grilled. Baby back ribs are slowly cooked until tender, then briefly grilled over mesquite while being basted with a slightly tangy barbecue sauce. With the baked beans on the side and the pile of very crispy fries, this is a satisfying American meal.
And, there are the steaks. All are dry-aged for 21 days for flavor and tenderness. One of the most popular is the 9-ounce filet mignon. It is fork-tender and comes with a full-flavored whole-grain mustard sauce. I like the flavor of the Worcestershire sauce the top sirloin absorbed as a marinade. It adds a very nice note to the meat. There’s also a New York steak and a small filet with Maine lobster on a combo plate.
At lunch or dinner, sandwiches are available. The hickory burger with cheddar cheese gets its name from the sauce napped on the meat, and it is a satisfying affair. There are several other burgers, some chicken and turkey sandwiches and a highly stacked Reuben that gets high marks from me.
When you don’t know where to go for lunch on Saturday or Sunday, this is the place. In addition to the regular menu on Sundays, there’s a full brunch. It includes sparkling wine, tables full of salads, breads, fruits and cheeses and desserts. Peel-and-eat shrimp add a dimension. Omelets and waffles are made to order, and everything from seafood crepes to roasted meat is there for the tasting. And there’s a steel band giving the whole thing an island atmosphere.
The wine list gets very high marks for its affordability and good selection of high-profile and boutique wines, mostly from California.
