Five Crowns in Corona del Mar has undergone nearly $1 million in renovations: updated uniforms, refurbished gardens and interiors, a new pantry and kitchen area and some great additions to the menu.
Surroundings have been so carefully spruced up that there’s no jarring of the senses when we walk in; it still is the comforting English manor home style that has kept us happy for more than four decades.
As general manager Chris Szechenyi told me when the updating was under way, “Five Crowns is not meant to be a cutting edge place, but rather a restaurant of ongoing comfort and quality. And now it has more food interest and quality than ever before while being true to its concept.”
A lot of buzz centered on the uniform change for employees. At our last dinner there, we chatted with folks at two tables near us about the crisp new black and white outfits for servers as opposed to the wench-like attire of old.
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Five Crowns: $1 million renovation |
All we had to do was chat with a female employee to learn that they are delighted to be in the crisp and fashionable attire rather than the tired old costumes showing much d & #233;colletage and consisting of many separate pieces.
We are never in a big hurry to get to the table. That’s because we like the comfortable waiting area where we always want to have a few of those homemade chips, a few bites of the artisanal cheddar cheese with a Stilton cheese layer running through the middle of it and a crudit & #233;s or two that are on a small groaning board beside the fireplace.
What we don’t see of the renovation is the expanded pantry and reworked kitchen area that chef Dennis Brask and his crew are loving. This makes it easier for them to facilitate the food and work with the menu additions. Some of the food changes include the addition of small plates on the menu that are good for grazers wanting to dine on a lighter scale or to taste more things at one meal, side dishes of interest, vegetarian dishes that rotate and upgraded produce with organic status kicking in. Even the horseradish for the prime rib is organically grown.
Big prawns are impressive in the shrimp cocktail, Hawaiian and English sea salts are now used on the prime rib. Sauces now change occasionally with some items such as the roasted duck (we encountered fresh figs in the sauce one evening). This is the season for wild salmon, so take advantage of that on this summer menu.
The menu items use fresh, seasonal and up to date ingredients that showcase the highest quality raw products. The core menu of favorites remain but about two times per season the way the food is presented and the small plates are subject to change, keeping dining an interesting affair. Meals always have begun with superb breads that still test my willpower.
On the menu of the moment, there are two soups, a couple of the traditional appetizers and three seasonal ones,beet Napoleon with goat cheese, portabello and porcini mushroom raviolis and sushi grade tuna seared beneath a sesame crust,and five salads. Prices range from $7 to $14.
As for those small plates, there will now be four market driven choices on the menu that serve to showcase the best seasonal items the purveyors bring to the chef on a daily basis. These can be paired with matching wines for an even more interesting meal. Prices range from $12 to $25. Also new to the menus are a dozen side order options of starches and vegetables, some in individual servings, others meant to be shared. Individual sides beyond the familiar are Imperial black rice, hand-harvested wild rice and petite white corn in cream (truly wonderful). Share the roasted oyster mushrooms, the macaroni and cheese made with the cheddar and stilton cheese combo or the potato with apple wood-smoked bacon and spring onions.
About eight classic entrees are joined by half a dozen seasonal ones. I have to throw in a vote for two shellfish dishes: butter poached lobster (three East Coast tails) with angel hair pasta and the jumbo shrimp and scallops with black rice and a Thai-influenced coconut milk sauce. The fish and chips translate to a bit of understated elegance since Dover sole is used for the fish rather than the less expensive cod. The salmon is encased in a crust of Yukon Gold potatoes spiked with a bit of that organic horseradish, while top loin of swordfish has a tomato-basil relish as a complement.
All of the familiar cuts of prime rib are still available. For the first time, I tried the rib eye and it delivered a nice duality of textures with the succulence of prime rib beneath a crispy seared exterior. The premium dry aged New York steak is always a good choice. Rack of Colorado lamb is currently served with a merlot jus. The duckling on the summer menu is from the highly regarded Maple Leaf Farms and is roasted with a balsamic glaze and sided with a strawberry-rhubarb coulis.
Caramelized pear and orange ravioli with St. Pete’s Minnesota blue cheese and red pepper pasta with brown butter sauce are a couple of suggested vegetarian options. Entrees are $25 to $38.
Of course, there is an array of sweets, but the souffl & #233;s and the classic trifle win the race. There are two souffl & #233;s each day and this is one of our favorite places to enjoy them.
Five Crowns has always been serious about its international wine list and cellar. Monday nights can prove to be a great bargain when certain wines are offered at 20% to 25% off. And for Sunday brunch, any champagne or sparkling wine on the list is available at a 25% discount. Dinners with acclaimed winemakers are held quarterly.
When you are looking for a wonderful Sunday Brunch experience, take time to enjoy the a la carte meal in the open patio overlooking the back lawn and gardens or in the enclosed garden room. The varied food selections are accompanied by super first courses (Welsh rarebit, tortilla lime soup, wild mushroom bisque, salads and fresh California fruits among them). I happen to be fond of the curry chicken and smoked salmon benedict entrees.
Five Crowns: 3801 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar, (949) 760-0331.
