DINING TOUR
A City-by-City Taste of Fifi Chao’s Favorite OC Restaurants
I decided to take a stroll through Orange County’s cities to cull different dining experiences that have pleased me lately. Some are upscale restaurants and some are more casual. All have delightful dishes to taste and variety is guaranteed. ,Fifi Chao
ANAHEIM
ANAHEIM WHITE HOUSE
887 S. Anaheim Blvd.
(714) 772-1381
It took a forward-thinking and passionate restaurateur to create something of great charm that represented a m & #233;lange of the best and most modern French and Italian dishes and to have it in Anaheim, rather than in the midst of Newport Beach and Laguna’s sophisticated dining spots.
Bruno Serato, a native of Italy who spent much of his youth in Paris, did just that several years ago when he took over the house with the illustrious OC history and turned it into the Anaheim White House.
Coastal residents at first ignored this place that was a mere mile from Disneyland. That was until they found out that movie and TV stars, athletes, a Middle Eastern princess and even an American president ate there. Bruno was doing some of Madonna’s catering, too.
Waterfront locals found that it was worth the drive to dine here. It helps that Bruno adores his customers, that fine service is paramount and that the wine list supports attention to quality at moderate prices.
Of course, the food is the real hook that gets them back.
One can hardly forget an appetizer of carpaccio: A paper-thin filet forms the “skin” of a teepee framed with bread sticks and perched on a slab of black marble.
Segue to the end of the meal and know that your jaw will drop upon seeing what I call the “Mirror Dessert.” It’s a big rectangular mirror, with “floors” of smaller scaled mirrors seemingly afloat in puffy clouds of pulled sugar and walls of solid caramelized sugar. The “furniture” on these floors is a grand array of bite-size desserts. Spectacular is hardly the word.
Intersperse entr & #233;es of fresh fish and fine meat with delicate and distinguished sauces, pastas replicating Italy’s best and even a couple of vegetarian items that sing an opera of their own, and you get a smattering of what makes Anaheim White House special.
5′
12017 Harbor Blvd.
(714) 383-6000
This second OC location for 5′ (Five Feet) opened last fall (the original is in Laguna Beach). I am very impressed with the artistry in the food and the amusing names owner and chef Michael Kang has given his dishes.
He proves that dining well does not always need to be overly serious.
I ate here when it opened and was happy that Anaheim diners were getting a creative new dining venue like this, where food incorporated the best ingredients. I ate there again and knew I wanted to get some of my foodie friends over. I’m still referring customers.
The room is sleek and modern with lots of gently rounded elements: the bar, a large “community” cocktail table, some walls and railings fronting the elevated parts of the dining room.
Custom art fits the niches and bends of the wall. It proves that casual can also be sophisticated.
The menu is divided into small, medium and large plates; a most sensible way to portion food so diners don’t get bogged down with one entr & #233;e.
In the small plates category, the sake cured salmon tartar, kung pao calamari and hoisin beef short ribs are wonderful. Musts on medium-sized plates include lettuce wraps around minced chicken with plum vinaigrette, seared ahi over exotic greens and Michael’s take on Caesar salad, which here incorporates invigorating curried croutons.
Entr & #233;e names bring smiles. “Just for the Halibut” is oven-roasted halibut in a macadamia nut crust and with champagne lychee sauce. “Crabby Mood” is a whole Dungeness crab in a ginger-scallion-XO sauce. “Sizzling Hot Sisters” combines jumbo scallops, prawns and Maine lobster over noodles in a chef’s special sauce.
“The Birds” comprises crispy Cantonese-style duck breast and duck with a pinot noir-tamarind essence. “BBQ 101” is rack of lamb glazed in a Chinese sauce.
MR. STOX
1105 E. Katella
(714) 634-2994
Mention Mr. Stox to anyone who’s been there and talk of wine is sure to come up.
The wine cellar holds more than 20,000 bottles and the list of labels is high into the hundreds.
Of course, chef Scott Raczek garners a big following for his creative California cuisine matched to wines, if desired.
Owners Chick, Ron and Debbie (Ron’s wife) Marshall have given Mr. Stox an aura of class and sophistication with its marble, unique furnishings, custom accents, pristinely napped tables, proper wine glassware and booths.
I love that I can have foie gras to begin and follow with enticing entr & #233;es. The menu includes fresh fish, good steaks, a few dishes that take on a bit of Asian fusion, French-like dishes such as braised rabbit, pastas that go far beyond the Italian norm and desserts that are always above expectations.
Plus there’s the basket of breads, piled with variety and reeking with heady aroma. Other restaurants and some supermarkets buy bread from Mr. Stox.
A dinner not long ago had me sipping a mouth-filling Robert Weil 2001 Estate Kabinett Riesling that I hung onto throughout the meal and a Merry Edwards 2001 Russian River Sauvignon Blanc.
By the time the veal course arrived, a Wesmar 1999 Russian River Pinot Noir had been poured.
One can hardly quarrel about finishing a fine meal with a glass of 2001 Domaine de Durban Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, which some aficionados feel is the best Beaumes de Venise of the appellation.
Gee, I only have about 796 more wines on the list to try.
THE CATCH
1929 S. State College Blvd.
(714) 935-0101
Anaheim has been revitalized in many ways,from the champion sports teams to mayor Curt Pringle,and I’m happy to add that The Catch is back and better than ever.
It was resuscitated by a trio of Manzella siblings last fall after lying dormant for several years. The Manzellas also are the proprietors of Brea’s TAPS Fish House & Brewery, which itself is part of a reenergized downtown Brea.
The stylish Catch, across from Edison Field, is a great place for a formal dinner, a quality business lunch or a quick drink and nibble in the bar before a summer baseball game or concert.
The Catch has prime steaks and a great three-course prime rib prix fixe nightly from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. for a bargain $19.95.
But my hands-down favorite is their sea bass. Miso-marinated with a touch of sake, then caramelized and served on fluffy Thai-style fried rice and further crowned by crispy rock shrimp and a carrot and ginger sauce, the dish is incredibly light and enchanting with every bite.
No wonder I heard it was the most popular entree among the Mighty Ducks of Anaheim, who were frequent late diners during the hockey season.
The basic premise of the menu is superior quality ingredients to make impressionable presentations of steaks, chops, poultry and seafoods.
Patrick and I sat at the bar one evening and ordered the oyster bar pan roast. It offered a choice of Dungeness crab, tiger prawns or blue point oysters (we asked for a mix of all three) that were then roasted with vegetables in cognac lobster cream sauce.
The menu makes way for classics such as Caesar salad, hearty sandwiches, and even things like real southern fried chicken. But it marches on with modernisms such as tuna tartar, too. The latter is a delightful tumble of minced ginger, cilantro, toasted pine nuts and Fuji apple pieces supporting the luxurious texture and taste of the diced fresh tuna.
BREA
LA VIE EN ROSE
240 S. State College Blvd.
(714) 529-8333
I’ve called La Vie En Rose the home of dignified country cuisine in OC and though it has a French name, the menu is straightforward in explaining the classic dishes made with fresh local ingredients.
I’ve traveled to visit my share of manor houses in Europe and Asia. In OC I go to La Vie En Rose.
The restaurant features upholstered walls, cushy armchairs around the linen-draped tables and many other charms. Professional service has always been an equal priority here.
To start my meal, I chose smoked salmon with fresh asparagus spears, which is perfect for this season. A salad of baby greens with orange vinaigrette, walnuts and bits of dried apricot is completely refreshing.
Sea scallops are sweet and tender, lightly napped with lemongrass beurre blanc on one occasion and with a lime-ginger sauce on another. Veal scaloppine has a hint of apple brandy.
Such dishes showcase this kitchen’s fine habit of adding dimension to a dish with a little bit of sauce. I can still taste saut & #233;ed shrimp atop braised fennel.
The combination of quickly roasted duck breast (magret) on one side of my plate and the marinated, redolent leg and thigh (confit) on the other takes care of two cravings at once. Add a dab of one of the creative sauces for finish,blueberry lately,and it steps up another notch.
Rack of lamb was recently perfumed with Madeira wine. Every day there are some fresh fish specials and a steak or veal chop, or tenderloin of pork is always welcome.
I adore the wine list here, replete with fine boutique wines that don’t cost a fortune. Owner Louis Laulhere has always found pleasure in offering wines that give new dimension to meals and surprise the guest with their minimal cost.
He also loves to lavish us with special desserts, which are brought to your table on a trolley made to show off the sweets perfectly.
TAPS FISH HOUSE & BREWERY
Birch Street Promenade
101 East Imperial Highway
(714) 257-0101
Five years ago, Brea began a makeover and the cornerstone renovation was the Birch Street Promenade.
In the most prominent corner, a large building began to look more impressive by the day. And, for all the charm of the building’s exterior, the woodsy and friendly interior of the restaurant that became TAPS Fish House & Brewery was even more notable.
We know that as we move away from the coast in the summer, things heat up. There’s nothing more refreshing on a warm day than a frosty beer, especially those handcrafted from the finest English and German malt and hops, pure water and unique strains of yeast.
Acclaimed brewmaster Victor Novak at TAPS is at your service to quench the summertime thirst.
Mindful of European traditions, Victor has created three seasonal beers, besides his year-round hefeweizen.
TAPS’ Belgian White is a light, spiced, unfiltered wheat beer, with touches of coriander, cura & #231;ao and sweet orange peels complementing the wheat malt.
Then there’s the unique Thomas Jefferson Ale, a re-creation of a beer Jefferson would have had brewed at Monticello two hundred years ago. It is deep reddish-brown, very full-bodied, with a hint of toffee.
Victor’s third summer offering is a German Pilsner, a light-bodied, straw-colored lager with a pleasant hop bouquet and a classically dry finish.
What to enjoy with one of these award-winning ales?
My favorite for this time of the year,besides the wonderfully fresh selection of just-shucked oysters,is chef Craig Rouse’s ceviche. Made to order, it is a m & #233;lange of marinated shrimp and scallops in a slightly spicy fresh citrus-tomato juice.
TAPS is a serious food restaurant sporting a menu packed with fresh seafood and steaks and some New Orleans-style dishes, as well.
COSTA MESA
BRISTOL PALMS
Hilton Costa Mesa
3050 Bristol St.
(714) 540-7000
Finding the terrific food at this restaurant was one of the highlights of my dining adventures in the past few months.
Fellow writers, and a friend who just loves to eat, asked me if I’d tried the new Bristol Palms. I hadn’t, but I sure was glad when it happened.
First of all, the Hilton Costa Mesa is a beautiful hotel, having recently undergone a $15.5 million renovation. A sea of beige marble, split bamboo flooring, low-slung chandeliers and cushy modern furnishings greet you.
Walls have eye-catching art. Glass elevators glide gracefully down to the lobby. Blond wood is used in abundance.
In the hotel’s Bristol Palms restaurant, chef Jan Pfeiffer wows us with wonderful food that’s presented on custom plates in shapes and sizes that dramatize his efforts.
His California Rim cuisine depicts the state’s many cultures. Jan’s passion for cooking has made dining exciting again.
Smoked salmon is tucked into an herb wrap along with avocado, cream cheese, red onion and tomato for a winning appetizer. Fat crab cakes rest beside an avocado compote, roasted pepper relish and a salad of fris & #233;e and herbs.
Mussels and clams sit in a delicious broth with a slightly smoky edge acquired from the stone pizza oven. We met the best intermezzo we ever had, a Granny Smith apple sorbet atop a layer of muscat wine jelly.
Roasted squab is perfumed with five-spice flavor and a lemon grass and balsamic drizzle. Ravioli filled with a portobello mushroom ragout beckons.
Salmon is quickly broiled and served on a bed of Maui onions, sliced cucumber and daikon sprouts. Pepper-crusted lamb T-bone and black tiger shrimp join forces in a swell meat and seafood combo.
Caramelized shallot and pancetta ragout accompanies the New York steak.
And, lest you think you’ve already tasted the best dessert around, this place has one final lovely surprise for you. Color this one of OC’s hidden gems.
GOLDEN TRUFFLE
1767 Newport Blvd.
(949) 645-9970
Chef and owner Alan Greeley is still at it, seducing the public with his inspired dishes.
We had a very long lunch of five courses recently, four of them based on baby spring lamb. Another time, we hurried over to savor his soft-shell crab menu, which lasted only a few days.
With Alan there are only a few menu items that show up regularly. He’s just too creative to do the same thing again and again.
I love eating his food in the adorable bistro-like setting, albeit a true California bistro with a serious boutique (affordable) wine collection, and even a wine room for good measure.
It’s definitely not a pretentious or stuffy place. Cool, just like Alan.
You might run into his fresh crayfish salad as a frequent special of the day. He always makes “Some Kind of Soup,” an intriguing soup-of-the-day.
Another recurring special is luscious mesquite-smoked Halibut with warm chamomile butter. We all smile when the duck tacos show up on the menu. They elevate finger food to chic status.
Alan discovered certain culinary charms in the tender little triangular tail on loin steaks and christened it “Miyagi Loin Steak.” Anyone who eats red meat has led an incomplete life until this graces your plate.
Alan is not bound by convention or blind faith to any one style of cuisine. You always will find pasta dishes (one of my runaway favorites is macaroni and cheese with truffles), seductive shellfish of some kind, Jamaican items, perhaps foie gras, and standbys such as veal chop, pork tenderloin and roasted gypsy chicken.
I never, ever tire of his food. His mission statement is good value for the dollar: complete dedication to quality and a sense of humor.
PLUMS
369 E. 17th St.
(949) 722-7586
I’ve been to this restaurant so many times that I now alternate between sitting in the garden patio surrounded by custom wrought iron and the lovely dining room that’s flooded with natural light, decked out in plenty of blonde wood and terrific art.
It’s such a pleasant place to be, inside or out. Add the eclectic and decidedly interesting food that is the trademark of owner Kim Jorgensen and you realize it’s a place with few peers.
Alas, Plums only is open for breakfast and lunch. This is where I get my shirred eggs fix (they are baked in a small cup with spinach and tomato relish on the side). Omelets are filled with a trio of wild mushrooms, dungeness crab and asparagus or spinach and feta cheese.
Love that big Dutch Baby pancake sprinkled so generously with powdered sugar and sided with lemon. Eggs Benedict take on a Santa Fe personality: on a fresh baguette with Oregon pepper ham and chipotle-cilantro hollandaise.
French toast is dredged with coconut and topped with fruit. I often have the cornmeal-crusted trout that comes with two eggs, two strips of bacon and potatoes. Hash is made of alder wood-smoked salmon, topped with poached eggs.
On the lunch menu, we encounter the luscious lamb burger made with feta cheese, garlic and oregano. Such a treat after so many hamburgers along the way.
Mediterranean ni & #231;oise salad has gone modern in its m & #233;lange of mixed greens topped with crunchy green beans, grilled fennel, roasted fingerling potatoes and strips of freshly seared rare ahi tuna steak.
Plums does a superb meatloaf, and fresh salmon is crusted with mustard and served over fennel slaw. Pan-fried Idaho trout turns up with wild rice and field greens.
Chicken harks of Tuscany, a Black Forest ham sandwich is topped with artichoke hearts and Emmenthaler cheese. There’s more to discover and it’s fun every time.
TURNER NEW ZEALAND
650 Anton Blvd.
(714) 668-0880
The search for perfection at Turner New Zealand begins with Noel Turner, a guy with a personality and sense of gab that fascinates almost as much as the food.
Noel is from New Zealand and has an international company with the same name as the restaurant. He supplies top-echelon restaurants around the world with the finest free-range veal, beef, lamb, wild game, shellfish and seafood.
All meats and fish are raised by his company under ecologically sound, pesticide- and hormone-free guidelines.
When you see his products on a Ritz-Carlton menu, it says Turner New Zealand Salmon, Turner New Zealand Beef or Turner New Zealand Mussels to denote that it’s a very special product.
Antonello, Bistango and Golden Truffle are but a trio of restaurants with some of Noel’s meat or fish on their menus.
With all this fine food, Noel and his wife, Katherin, decided to open a restaurant of their own last fall and chose to do it right here in Costa Mesa. Oh, are we lucky!
The menu is large.
The exquisitely textured salmon is offered in tartar form, in a salad, in house-cured gravlax fashion, in a spinach pasta dish, tucked in ravioli, and pan-roasted.
Wild game and all the other meats are specially aged to Noel’s specification. They’re prepared as an ingredient to salads, pan-seared, baked or tossed with pasta.
We’ve tried mussels just about everywhere in this county and in lots of restaurants overseas; Patrick and I both concede that they don’t get better than Noel’s version.
Noel is exceedingly proud of what he serves in his own restaurant and what he sells to others. This is a restaurant your taste buds can’t afford to miss.
YUJEAN KANG’S ASIAN BISTRO
South Coast Plaza
3333 Bristol St.
(714) 662-1098
The restaurant is named after the chef and owner who built a successful restaurant in Pasadena.
I’m very happy that I no longer to have to drive so far to enjoy his intelligent fusion cuisine. Indeed, this is one of the dining stars at the South Coast Plaza mall.
Yujean has endeared himself to many a gourmet and gotten national coverage in food magazines for his menu that combines basic Asian recipes with the thrill of spices from other countries.
He does not box himself in by serving food from one country. Yujean offers a fairly extensive menu of sushi and sashimi.
Thai crispy beef with saut & #233;ed vegetables, pork loin with fresh leeks, Chinese filet of fish with baby bok choy, prawns with Chinese polenta, green beans with minced pork and Korean noodles with ground meat are some of the dishes.
In the summer, the Chinese keep cold noodles with spicy peanut sauce in the refrigerator to eat as a cool, refreshing snack.
I love them and, thankfully, Yujean’s are delicious. Soup lovers (that would be my Patrick) should not miss the won ton soup that’s studded with the meat-filled dumplings and plenty of shrimp and vegetables.
Tea-smoked duck with Chinese cr & #281;pes and plum sauce is a near-habitual order.
Pay attention to Yujean’s “Chef’s Favorites” menu. Great choices are sea bass with garlic flavor, sliced veal loin with matchstick yams, prawns with glazed walnuts and asparagus, and sliced lamb loin with scallions and baby bok choy.
Even the desserts will surprise you with their bit of intrigue and barely sweet taste.
The interior recalls a cute bistro with unpretentious but pretty interiors. Walls have plenty of bamboo. It oozes friendliness.
DANA POINT
CLUB GRILL & BAR
Ritz-Carlton Hotel
One Ritz-Carlton Drive
(949) 240-2000
This is the benchmark for fine food and dancing.
The dining room exudes class and reminds those that are old enough of Hollywood’s glamour era.
It’s quiet except for the toned down, utterly danceable live music that plays in the latter part of the evening. Real flowers are a must on perfectly dressed tables.
Good artwork, a sedate bar and a dimly lit, sophisticated feel make this a most compelling room.
The food naturally carries the high standards of this luxury hotel. That means I like to start with seared foie gras with endive and hazelnut salad. A small caramelized pear comes on the side.
I had sea scallops with artichoke risotto at my last meal. These crustaceans become sweet when pan-seared, and they do well with the al dente texture of the rice accompaniment.
There are charmingly composed salads. But since I like martinis, I’m enthralled with the lobster martini appetizer much of the time. This offering has Maine lobster pieces with avocado gazpacho vinaigrette.
Classy entr & #233;es abound.
I write about the phenomenon of Turner New Zealand meat and seafood in this roundup: the King Salmon turns up at the Ritz-Carlton. Here, it’s a finesse of crisp exterior, moist interior and a happy partner to the morel mushroom stew on the side.
Steaks and chops of every description tempt. I like that they aren’t trendy by giving each of the meats an individual creative sauce. Rather, they allow us to choose the classic sauce to suit our mood.
Ah, romance and relaxation and really great food.
MOTIF
St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort & Spa
One Monarch Beach Resort
(949) 234-3320
This restaurant has one of the most appealing dining concepts in OC. And it’s proving that dining in a hotel can be very affordable.
Azmin Ghahreman, the executive chef of the resort, recently invented a menu of 24 small plates of international foods. It allows us to dine on several small courses rather than one large appetizer followed by the traditional entr & #233;e plate.
Some of the dishes can be doubled, turning them into more stately portions, if desired. The dishes are priced at $6.50 to $12.75 each. The chef and restaurant manager Gary Murray have vaulted Motif into a stellar tasting experience in its new incarnation.
The room is a soothing place with pale-colored walls, travertine chandeliers, plenty of greenery, agreeable views and tables with a sense of privacy.
It’s almost outrageous to admit this, but I’ve tasted all 24 items on the menu.
I’m completely taken with the way the dishes come in their own unique ceramic ramekins, baking pots, small cast iron skillets, single-portion paella pans, little hibachis and such.
I can’t name all the great dishes, but here’s a smattering.
Tacoshimi is a little stack of smoked salmon to be tucked into paper-thin Oriental wrappers with a few avocado sprouts and a ribbon of wasabi-flavored cr & #269;me fra & #238;che.
Serrano ham is a flavor sensation with its oven-roasted grapes. Sashimi-grade tuna leans against a small mound of cauliflower with a dapple of green olive pesto. Portuguese clams with pork are feisty.
Tender little Indian tandoori-roasted lamb chops are joy incarnate. Richly flavored beef fills ravioli in their cute little ramekin.
Four huge baked scampi are awesome in their paprika butter. Pan-seared turbot becomes a seafood delight. Steak Diane, served in such a delicate portion (or doubled if wanted), turns the dish elegant.
It’s such an interesting foray into different cultures no matter what you order.
HUNTINGTON BEACH
CHIMAYO AT THE BEACH
315 Pacific Coast Highway
(714)) 374-7273
Chimayo has the demeanor of a seaside villa with a Latin pedigree.
A large mural reminds us that this isn’t a far stretch from the good life on the Mexican Riviera. Now celebrating its fourth year at the beach, the concept still works as if it were new.
The inside dining room flows toward the rustic bar that has great views of the ocean. A patio runs to the sand. Locals consider it their restaurant, but Chimayo gets a good share of customers from two chic hotels nearby.
The food is master restaurateur David Wilhelm’s imaginative take on modern Mexican fare filtered through a slightly international prism.
Chimayo just introduced a new menu that combines savory tastes and an expanded cosmopolitan flair. Asian shiitake mushrooms show up, the menu has some raw shellfish and sushi choices and some dishes are reminiscent of island cuisine.
Mussels steamed with spicy Thai red curry and coconut milk tell me I don’t have to be in Bangkok to enjoy the indigenous cuisine. Maine lobster and rare ahi steak long have been favorites of customers, and they are a staple of the menu.
A plate called “7 Seas” holds fresh shrimp, fish, scallops, mussels, clams and crab baked in a choice of tropical coconut curry sauce (my choice) or spicy tomato-herb broth.
Fish ‘n’ chips takes advantage of fresh sea bass. The 22-ounce rib eye steak is the dream of red meat eaters, and this one sings well with its honey-garlic glaze.
And let’s not forget that David introduced OC to the grilled Caesar salad, which I still like to have after my entr & #233;e.
If you have the slightest urge for a good tropical cocktail, there’s a whole passel of them here that have apropos names and, more importantly, a backbone of good quality liquor.
IRVINE
CHINA GARDEN
14825 Jeffrey Road
(949) 653-9988
Stroll into this fairly attractive restaurant any night of the week after 10 p.m. and pay special attention to the table or two of mainly Asian men.
Some still are in their kitchen whites; they’re the chefs and cook staff from other Chinese restaurants who come here for their last meal of the day. They know where to find excellent food.
If you’re a night owl like me, you’ll love the 81 dinner dishes (from the regular menu) priced from $4.25 to $7.25 every night between 10 p.m. and midnight.
If you must eat lunch or dinner a sensible hour, there are dozens of dishes in that price range.
And China Garden recently debuted a generously portioned and delicious dim sum. It rivals the best, and in some cases surpasses, what we’ve had in either Hong Kong or China.
Served daily from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., this is arguably the best dim sum in OC right now.
Dim sum is cheap, and you pay by the plate. On the $1.95 list are many of my favorites, including steamed pork and mushroom dumplings (siu mai), tiny spare ribs, pan-seared white turnip cake, barbecue pork buns, egg custard tarts, steamed sponge cake and coconut cake.
At $2.95: steamed shrimp dumplings (har gow), rice noodle roll stuffed with shrimp and splendid squid in a mild curry sauce. For $3.95 plates, there is bell pepper stuffed with shrimp, deep-fried seafood rolls and a great version of sticky rice steamed inside a lotus-leaf wrapping.
The top stage at $4.95 gets you a very large platter of perfectly steamed Chinese broccoli (gai lan) drizzled with oyster sauce, ox tail stew and pork and turnip cake with leeks.
The huge & #341; la carte menu is rife with the best flavors of Hong Kong, including meats of every kind, fresh seafood and shellfish steamed and fried, simmered casserole dishes with vegetables and meats, noodle and rice specialties and delicious vegetable dishes.
CHINA WEST
17585 Harvard Ave.
(949) 756-1177
A decade ago, Irvine was just finding its way in the restaurant realm and this was a prettier place than most. Owner John Kao and his wife, Helen, chose to hire an architect with a modern eye.
He gave us a place with lavender on some of the walls, neon peeking out around the edge of the ceiling, gracefully swaged drapes, absolutely cushy booth seating and some black lacquer surfaces, just because it looked good in any environment.
The artifacts also were nouveau. Years later, China West has aged so gracefully while the food has gained legions of fans.
In the early days, John’s food was as revolutionary as the decor. Every restaurant was still serving Cantonese food, while Shanghainese cooking was barely mentioned in restaurant kitchens.
Then the exodus of fine chefs from Shanghai began with many ending up in San Francisco and New York. Poor us; we had to wait.
But John found his chef, who brought along his repertoire of lighter sauces. Shanghainese cooking was a hit with the public.
You can tell when there’s lamb on a menu that the restaurant represents northern Chinese or Shanghainese cooking.
Here it is deliciously tender sliced lamb stir-fried with scallions. I can’t count the times I’ve ordered it. Curried squid, roasted chicken with hoisin glaze, kung pao shrimp, rice noodle ovals stir-fried with minced pork, braised eggplant, shrimp and walnuts glazed with honey and mayonnaise are part of the Shanghainese food inventory.
Yes, the Chinese were using a form of mayonnaise and ketchup eons ago.
One of the best ways to discover China West’s wonderful tastes is to go to the $9.95 Sunday buffet.
IL FORNAIO
18051 Von Karman
(949) 261-1444
This is one of my favorite hangouts.
Why not? There’s authentic Italian regional food at great prices, Italian villa d & #233;cor, professional service, a passionate chef and a homey feel.
Order from the menu or ask chef and partner Marcello Apollonio to cook something special for you; it does not disappoint.
Most people don’t know that there’s a wonderful room at the back of the restaurant that has a long farm table and its own pizza oven.
I’ve put the room to good use on several occasions. They are happy to do a unique meal or you can order from the menu; it’s a lot of fun to be with your friends in the private room.
Emphasis is placed on simple, fresh ingredients and Italian cooking methods.
Rotisseries are used for a variety of preparations. Pizzas are baked in a wood-fired oven. Fresh pastas are made in-house daily, and dried pastas are imported from Italy. All meals are complemented by a selection of handmade breads.
A stellar appetizer on the current seasonal menu is the grilled scallops, calamari and wild sweet shrimp drizzled with parsley sauce. Another terrific one is the red and gold beet combo with arugula, toasted walnuts, Asia go cheese and a lemon and olive oil dressing.
Il Fornaio has one of the best spinach salads: tender young leaves, aged ricotta, red onions, apple wood smoked bacon, mushrooms and toasted walnuts.
Entr & #233;es to consider include two kinds of ravioli,I’ve never figured out which I like best. One is stuffed with fresh Maine lobster while another is filled with butternut squash and walnuts and bathed in a brown butter-sage sauce.
This is a restaurant where I have gnocchi, those fluffy little potato dumplings. With either brandy-marinara cream sauce or with smoked salmon, capers and dill, they make a statement.
And the center cut pork chop stuffed with asparagus, leeks, roasted garlic and smoked mozzarella is in a world of its own.
THAI KITCHEN
4250 Barranca Parkway
(949) 857-1788
This 11-year-old restaurant is a real gem.
Thai Kitchen still is so sleek, pretty and architecturally interesting that one would think it’s brand new.
Blond wood fashions the curvy walls and tables. Insets of fan-shaped etched glass add Art Deco pizzazz. Pastel colors blend in a gentle way.
Best of all, you are greeted with smiles. The owner, Lan Lan Karjadi, is there to greet and take care of everything.
While the restaurant always has served refined Thai food at very affordable prices, the menu now has a few Indian specialties.
A must for appetizers is called “Angel Wings.” These are deboned chicken wings stuffed with forcemeat of shrimp, pork and chicken and crisped to perfection. The portion is actually large enough to serve as an entr & #233;e.
Thai Kitchen’s chicken soup, laced with lemon grass and coconut, sliced pork in honey-lemon grass sauce and roasted duck with tamarind sauce, is memorable. But the red curry duck with accents of basil, tomato and pineapple is a bit of nirvana.
Noodles can be merely a starch on which to pile other ingredients, or they can be an integral part of a sophisticated m & #233;lange of ingredients that begs attention. The latter is the norm here.
Pad Thai brings together noodles, peanuts and vegetables in the best possible marriage.
The next time you don’t know where to eat and want a break from the same old thing, you should go to Thai Kitchen. It’s a bit of perfection.
There’s not only a comfort level that sings, but this is food that I am never afraid to introduce to Americans, who still tend to shy away from certain Asian cuisines.
It’s not hot, fiery stuff and it’s not filled with ingredients that our palates don’t understand.
WATERS LAKEHOUSE
4615 Barranca Parkway
(949) 733-9503
When you mention restaurant and water in the same sentence, the natural thought is of some place overlooking the ocean.
Rethink that idea in OC. Instead, visualize the tranquil waters of a large lake bordered by rolling green lawns and the handsome Waters Lakehouse, on the North Lake of Woodbridge Village, set out on the water.
In the daytime, shards of sun meet the blue of the lake. In the evening, sunsets are lovely and the water turns a dark blue velvet. Dining on the deck is divine.
Robert and Jodie Kinney are very hands-on owners. They greet and seat customers and stay around to oversee service.
While you’re studying the menu and thinking about wine, crusty French bread comes right from the oven.
The quality and variety from this kitchen is admirable. I’d call it California creative, but they don’t layer things to high heaven or smother food in sauces.
Appetizers you should order include saut & #233;ed Cajun cream shrimp that speak with a slight Louisiana accent, great crab cakes, lobster taquitos and the baked yellow tomato stuffed with goat cheese and baked in a phyllo dough wrap.
Red meats range from rib eye to top sirloin and filet, and the lamb chops with brandy infused fried red onion rings are superb.
I adore the rice tossed with cilantro and toasted coconut that goes with some dishes. Lots of fresh fish here: ahi, swordfish, grouper, halibut and salmon.
The cilantro flavored grilled shrimp stacked atop transparent noodles and sided with plum slaw is a must. Angel hair meets lobster in one nice pasta dish, while Thai chicken on linguine offers a whole new outlook.
For dessert, you must have the white chocolate chip macadamia nut cheesecake or the flourless chocolate souffl & #233;.
LAGUNA BEACH
LAS BRISAS
361 Cliff Drive
(949) 497-5434
Las Brisas is looking spiffier these days with a new paint job and cosmetic surgery to wipe away the busy life this restaurant has led for many years.
But, thankfully, it remains the beautiful lady overlooking the ocean.
A lot of the public seems to have the opinion that this is mostly a tourist spot. But there are those who know how good chef Javier Zambrano’s food is.
We just met friends from San Diego here two weeks ago. They have lived and eaten fine food all over the world, and they couldn’t wait to start telling their friends about Las Brisas.
The Laguna cliff-top restaurant has one of the most impressive breakfast buffets Monday through Saturday for $8.95.
Why would I not sit in that historical and pleasing atmosphere for a morning meeting rather than end up in a coffee shop with no view and no soul?
I often lunch here with friends, and, when my spirit is running low, I watch a sunset and am thankful to be here.
Must-orders include the Mexican shrimp, lobster medallions and crab with tequila cocktail sauce as a starter (and, of course, a signature Margarita).
Another great appetizer: large crab and sea scallop cakes with papaya and cucumber slaw, mango salsa and baby greens.
The saut & #233;ed calamari medallions with lemon and saffron sauce entr & #233;e is an absolute delight. The marinated pork chop with caramelized plantains has gained legendary status.
Salmon comes nicely paired with fried leeks and fennel and jalapeno mashed potatoes. The chicken breast with caramelized apples and wild rice is also a winner.
There’s also a fine selection of custom pastries to tempt you.
SPLASHES
Surf & Sand Hotel
1555 S. Coast Highway
(949) 497-4477
While we’re surrounded by fancy hotels housing glamorous restaurants, there’s something about the Surf & Sand that feels like and old friend; there’s a sense of stability here.
Even more important than the hotel to me is the dining room, Splashes, and the direction that chef Christopher Blobaum has given to the cuisine here.
Christopher is a modest gentleman but a passionate one about the “Slow Food” movement that honors the symbiotic relationship of the farmer, the fisherman, the chef and the diner.
He cares deeply about sustainable agriculture, which bodes well for us. He works with local purveyors and farmers and even artisans who make cheese.
It was a lunch that first impressed me. There was a lot to think about with so many wonderful flavors and the organic produce that was partially responsible for it.
I’m still mentally savoring the goodness of the lamb salad at my last meal here. Four generous, juicy pink slices of lamb sat atop a bed of baby greens, with each variety in the mix giving a distinct flavor and that just-picked sweetness that only comes from organic sustenance.
A glass of fresh-pressed organic carrot juice enhanced my palate.
Menus change quite often but some version of the following dishes should be there for you to enjoy.
Butternut squash ravioli with crispy sage, Caesar salad with white anchovies and aged Parmesan cheese, macadamia nut-crusted trout, roasted organic chicken breast with wild mushroom ragout, Maine diver scallops wrapped in prosciutto, John Dory with Meyer lemon cr & #269;me fra & #238;che, roasted quail with local Vidalia onions and chanterelles, local halibut with citrus couscous and a dessert of panna cotta with local strawberries.
I am not alone in being a bit in awe of this chef.
NEWPORT BEACH
CALYPSO CAF & #201; AND THE
WINE CELLAR ROOM
Sutton Place Hotel
4500 MacArthur
(949) 476-2001
Every summer we spend a couple of meals at the Sutton Place’s poolside Calypso Caf & #233; to rendezvous with a lobster dinner.
Dubbed the Lobster Cookout, the feast, now in its 13th season, includes a two-pound grilled Maine lobster, corn on the cob, Caesar salad and baked potato.
Oops, forgot to mention the big dessert buffet that’s included. There’s a specific time for the cookout: 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. Saturdays through Labor Day.
The Gerard Barbut trio plays delightful music while we gourmands relish our meal. The caveat here is that it sells out, so you need to make reservations.
The lobster meal works out nicely with the entertainment of Gerald Ishibashi and his Stonebridge Band in the hotel’s Trianon lounge at 9 p.m. on Saturdays. This is one of the most intimate rooms for music in OC and a divine way to end a good day.
Gerald plays all the old standards and nostalgia runs rampant. Richard Street, former lead singer with The Temptations, is a frequent visitor, lending his voice to songs that made the top of the pop charts.
There’s no cover charge, but get there a little before 9 p.m., as seating is limited.
If you’re looking for a really distinctive place to hold a special meal or just to dine with friends in a rather private and upscale enclave, you should consider the Sutton Place’s Wine Cellar Room, with a table for 14 people.
The wine collection at Sutton Place is valued in the millions. They will arrange a menu for your table, and you can choose wines from the hotel’s list.
Remember: Just because you’re sitting amidst all that priceless Petrus, Rothschild and Yquem, you don’t have to order it.
I’ve had some private dinners there and can attest that it makes for a wonderful evening.
CRAB COOKER
2200 Newport Blvd.
Newport Beach
(949) 673-0100
17260 E. 17 St.
Tustin
(714) 573-1077
I smile when I think back to the early days of this restaurant in Newport Beach. The location had been a bank, but when it closed, in stepped Bob Roubian, who merely turned the bank vault into his walk-in refrigerator.
Bob started serving fresh fish in the most casual and clean manner and had people standing in a block-long line waiting for a table (a former president included!).
It got him national publicity. Other restaurants have copied his ideas, sticky-fingered his logo lettering style and more, but they dared not serve customers on paper plates. Had to upscale something.
Bob still does it his way and continues to serve a menu of fresh fish and shellfish without any pretense, and his steady stream of customers who come to buy fresh fish to cook at home endures.
Few know that Bob’s an extremely accomplished pianist who has written tunes for top musicians. He has equal talent as a painter and sculptor (oils and marble).
I walked into his office a few years ago and he was chipping away at a gorgeous piece of marble, making a bust of Einstein. He’s currently turning another piece of meaningless stone into something of great beauty.
Bob’s a soft-spoken man whose kind soul is apparent.
He’s content with who he is and how he lives his life,just what most of us search for.
The Crab Cooker’s clam chowder is memorable. I like the briny pleasure of oysters on the half-shell here.
I’ve done my share of dribbling butter all over the place when eating crab claws.
Life is all about balance and this is the other happy side of the scale for me. Above all, history counts and Bob out-histories almost every other restaurateur in this county.
FLEMING’S PRIME
STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR
455 Newport Center Drive
(949) 720-9633
With the informality of the summer season upon us, Patrick and I find ourselves dining lighter, earlier and often in the bar.
A classic place we enjoy before a concert or event is Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar at the Fashion Island shopping mall.
Bill Allen and Paul Fleming’s original idea,to create a prime steakhouse with genuine hospitality and an unparalleled selection of wines by the glass,has been finely honed in the past five years.
Familiar faces since day one make us feel so welcome.
We enjoy the flights of wine that provide the chance to try different tastes from top vintners. Just put yourself in the hands of the competent staff and I guarantee you will walk away with new discoveries.
To complement the wines, try Fleming’s crispy lump crab cakes, a delectable offering with roasted red pepper and lime butter.
Another excellent choice is the shrimp and lobster cocktail over Napa cabbage, cucumber and red onion salad.
This is a creation in which chef and partner Jamie Kingsland puts a different twist on a delicious classic.
And for those with a hearty appetite and in an indulgent mood, you can’t do better than one of their perfectly cooked prime bone-in steaks with a side of Fleming’s house potatoes with cream, jalape & #324;os and cheddar cheese. Scrumptious and plenty to share with several guests.
The success of Fleming’s might be one of OC’s best-kept secrets.
The restaurant was cofounded in 1998 by Paul Fleming (a former Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse licensee and the creator of P.F. Chang’s China Bistro) and restaurateur Bill Allen.
In less than five years, 18 Fleming’s have opened nationwide, and another five are set to debut this year.
This is the epitome of the classic steak house concept.
Comfortable as can be, lots of warm wood, professional smiling servers and a menu studded with tender beef, chops and seafood and all those splendid wines.
GULFSTREAM
850 Avocado Ave.
(949) 718-0187
Gulfstream’s owners are known best for their Houston’s restaurants. They also own Bandera in Corona del Mar.
While they modestly describe Gulfstream as casual dining, scrap the thought that they aren’t serious about food and wine.
This is a very good-looking restaurant,warm and friendly with the extensive use of wood, the open kitchen, the bar right at the front of the restaurant and the glass wall in front overlooking the sand-covered patio.
All seafood is shipped to Gulfstream within 24 hours of hitting the docks. Everything is prepared fresh in the kitchen.
Unique wines from small-production wineries and vineyards highlight the wine list. They are modestly priced. There is no corkage fee if you bring your own favorite wine.
I appreciate that they don’t fool much with the menu of seafood, oysters and steak and a few bits of culinary Americana.
I’m always eager for fresh oysters on the half-shell. Sometimes I relish them fried, tempura-style with olive relish.
A tuna burger with hand-cut fries is so tasty, but its availability is limited to the quantity of sashimi-grade tuna in the kitchen each day.
Gulfstream is not into sauces and Continental thinking.
They give the ordinary cheeseburger some extra class by serving it on ciabatta bread. Fish is generally saut & #233;ed or grilled with things such as roasted beets, coleslaw, and wild rice, and mashed potatoes come on the side.
My two favorite items on the menu are short ribs with a mustard barbecue sauce and the beef rib eye that’s simply grilled.
Save room for the rich tres leches flan cake with berries and bananas for dessert.
MALARKY’S IRISH PUB
3011 Newport Blvd.
(949) 675-2340
Bill and Helen Hamilton now travel extensively, but they also pop in regularly to check on their quintessential pub, Malarky’s.
The Hamiltons were the proprietors of The Cannery for 26 years and that’s where we first met them.
Of all the trattorias and bistros I’ve visited in European and the noodle houses in Asia, there’s nothing like the fun of eating and having a beer with the locals in the village pubs of England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales.
Malarky’s might well have been plucked from the United Kingdom. Bill made sure that the essential amount of wood was everywhere: ceilings, floors, tables, chairs and the four-sided bar.
And he made sure there were plenty of old Newport and family photos on the wall to give it heart. Today, you’ll see the locals gathering to say hello and exchange a little gossip.
Families with young children also visit to eat.
Food, you see, is a big part of the family comfort zone here. Friendly priced dishes are served at breakfast, lunch and dinner.
All kinds of eggs and combo breakfasts come from the kitchen, even French toast and pancakes.
The rest of the day there’s about every kind of classic sandwich available.
Then there are what I call “bowl things.” Chili, a great Irish stew and clam chowder come in bowls.
And there are all kinds of things to order to go with your beer at the bar.
Entr & #233;es come complete with fries and salad. Those include a top sirloin steak, teriyaki or barbecue chicken, and fish ‘n’ chips.
Special entr & #233;es are served some nights. They include prime rib, roast beef sandwich and barbecue ribs, each $7 to $9.95. At these prices, no wonder the place is popular.
For me the nostalgia alone is worth the price. Small town America used to feel like this.
RUSTY PELICAN
2735 W. Coast Highway
(949) 642-3431
The Rusty Pelican is one of the wonderful old Newport restaurants on Mariner’s Mile.
The welcome surroundings shout comfort and understated elegance. In its 30th year, the Rusty Pelican still suits its waterfront site.
The wood exterior has weathered perfectly through the years. Inside, natural elements permeate the distinctive architecture. The massive river rock fireplace has always made a strong statement about coziness and roaring fires.
The big upstairs bar is a fantastically friendly place that I have added to my “Favorite Bars” list. The finest yachts are within touching distance outside the glassed dining room.
Rusty Pelican’s kitchen is dedicated to serving fish as fresh as anyone.
The server will probably tell you about some specials of the day, mostly based on line-caught fish.
The menu is replete with interesting preparations. In fact, Patrick and I hadn’t been to Rusty Pelican for some time until a couple of months ago. The new direction of the kitchen caught us off guard.
The seafood, which in years past had been pretty simply prepared and presented, has sauces and accompaniments that have raised it to another level.
The creamy crab bisque has richness and depth of taste. Ichiban fish on skewers (the fish has been marinated in soy and fresh ginger) also is quite good.
Bourbon Street shrimp keep alive the flavors of old New Orleans. Halibut from icy northern waters is crusted in crushed macadamia nuts.
Swordfish has hints of brandy and oyster sauce. Lake trout has a fennel- and thyme-flavored sauce.
Pasta dishes, a nice group of sandwiches, generous salads and even some steaks round out the menu. I like it because it has endured, and I sure enjoy what chef Travis Everhart has done with the food.
TROPHY’S SPORTS GRILL
4221 Dolphin Striker Way
(949) 756-8800
When I first ate here about three years ago it was wakeup time.
The food was very good, the menu interesting and the service friendly and really professional. That was a business lunch.
Then I got lazy one evening not long after and tried it out for dinner. Good again. I got a couple of friends to join us for a third try so we could order more from the menu.
This isn’t typical bar food and Trophy’s saves me from having to eat and watch sports in separate places.
Trophy’s probably seats at least 200 but manages to maintain a warm atmosphere. Decor has the sheen of dark hardwood. Lots of booth seating.
There’s an open stainless-clad kitchen along almost the entire back wall. Tables are covered in white linen with paper toppers, a nice touch. The bar, a four-sided affair right in the middle of it all, is very friendly.
The menu starts out with grazing plates, then there are specialty soups and salads, wood-fired pizzas, pastas and hand-carved sandwiches.
I give them extra points for the stack of small plates on each table, which makes food sharing easy.
Appetizers of interest are the wispy stack of onions rings, blackened chicken miniature empanadas and the chicken and chile quesadilla. They do a terrific lobster bisque soup.
Trophy’s signature dish is white chili (white beans and chicken) and is always welcome at my table. The pizzas have very crispy crusts and a slew of toppings to choose from.
They grill the center cut pork chop, leaving it moist inside. At one meal, we had beef stroganoff, layered over al dente fettuccine, which has a good supply of mushrooms and sour cream.
Fish ‘n’ chips is a pile of fries with four big pieces of fresh fish. Burgers are half-pounders.
