The holidays are upon us and I’m betting that many of you will be having lunch out while making the shopping rounds. I’m taking advantage of the Roy’s at Fashion Island holiday lunches on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Stop in for Roy Ya-maguchi’s inimitable Ha-waiian fusion cuisine interpreted by chef partner Chris Garnier and served with Roy’s aloha spirit. Fresh island salads, sushi, bento boxes and a three-course prix-fixe lunch for $26 are among the offerings. Roy’s GardenWalk in the Anaheim Resort area is serving lunch Fri-days only. I understand that President-elect Obama, born and raised in Hawaii, is a Roy’s fan. He and wife Michelle frequent the Roy’s in Chicago.
Antonello Coping with Economy
Speaking of three-course meals, when we were recently in Antonello in South Coast Plaza Village, I noticed the flyer on the table at the entry that advertised its pre-theater dinner package: three courses for only $34.95, Monday through Saturday. The package is one more thing that rings true in the value department in these scary financial times. And the fact that you can leave your car there and get free shuttle service back and forth to the performing arts complex is an added bonus.
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Antonello: restaurant fighting with higher prices, fewer customers |
I must admit that we personally frequent Antonello more than most other restaurants. The stunning, reminiscent decor takes us right back to special places we’ve visited in Italy, and chef Franco Barone’s food has taken us through many regions over the years. Also, the wines, overseen by super sommelier Steve Ebol, emerge over and over as both quality- and price-conscious.
Antonio Cagnolo, the owner, was kind enough to sit down with me one afternoon to talk about the current economy and how it affects restaurants so severely. First of all, most people do not know that restaurants have one of the smallest bottom lines of any industry. There’s never much profit to work with,Antonio considers making 5% lucky,and mostly the restaurant industry is one in which dedication and passion play massive parts in success.
As the number of customers is down, Antonio said that being proactive in all facets of restaurant operations is more important than ever.
“Right now,” he says, “we have to be the best salesperson. Before, we might have hoped for a 100% service level and reached 90%; today we need to deliver 110%.”
He quickly pointed out that he’s fortunate to have such a highly professional staff, including a chef of Franco’s caliber and Thad Foret, who as general manager over the years is recognized for caring for the customers, the staff and the restaurant as if they were his own. Antonio noted that Franco has always been a very dedicated chef, but now Franco is trying to visit even more with customers in the dining room in tandem with making sure the cooking is the best representation of Italy. They all understand that it’s those personal things such as a conversation with the chef, manager or sommelier that further highlight a good meal and make pleasant memories for a customer.
But adding that extra touch may not be enough to offset the rising costs of workers’ compensation and health and liability insurance, which have gone stratospheric. Food costs also have risen steadily, and rent has doubled since the restaurant opened 30 years ago.
Antonio emphasizes that nothing frozen is allowed in Franco’s kitchen; only the best veal, shrimp, fresh seafood, quality meats and pastas are acceptable, and that cannot change. Antonio tells me that premium imported pasta now costs four times as much as it used to, semolina flour to make fresh pasta has tripled in cost and imperative ingredients (extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, cheeses, prosciutto, dried porcini mushrooms for example) also now cost dramatically more.
“There’s no room for clever corner cutting or mini portions. I need to continue our consistency and dedication to a delicious and value-oriented experience,” Antonio said. “We cannot pass all that cost on to the customer. So, we live with it and have our already sparse bottom line shrink even further. It’s still better than lowering our quality.”
Antonio is diversifying, though. He already has his own trio of sauces,arrabbiata, salsa di pomodoro and livornese,available on many supermarket shelves under the Antonello label.
Only a month ago, we discovered that Antonio has been collaborating in Italy with a fine winemaker and longtime friend about making some “Antonio” wines. He has three blends under Antonio’s Il Solito Vino label on sale at Antonello Ristorante: Barbera Suprim 2004 (Steve recommends this with red meats, seasoned cheese, mushrooms and salami), Zio Baldo 2005 (try it with substantial meat dishes, lasagna and pizza) and Pelo di Lupo 2005 (has an affinity for salami, cheese and mushroom enhanced dishes and also very good with white meat dishes and pastas). They are priced at $9 per glass and only $36 per bottle and we are really enjoying them.
When the meal’s done and as you leave, take along one of the little complimentary cookbooks of Antonio’s that includes some of their best recipes and ideas for the ready-to-use sauces.
Antonello Ristorante is at 1611 Sunflower Ave., (in South Coast Plaza Village), Santa Ana, call (714) 751-7153.
Culinary Tidbits
Canaletto, which is part of the Il Fornaio chain, has just opened in Fashion Island. It occupies the space that formerly was Tutto Mare. The building underwent months of renovations and has been completely transformed. I haven’t had time to eat there yet, but it’s on my dance card. Call (949) 640-0900.
David Myers was set to bring us a version of his very successful Comme & #199;a from Los Angeles (he also has the trendy and popular Sona), but that’s not going to happen this season as formerly announced,it’s to be in the South Coast Plaza office building,with the latest news that it will come our way in 2009. I was rather anxious to have its presence here. It’s one of those true Parisian-type brasseries with great food and even a chef de fromage to order and cleverly present a lot of interesting cheeses that are so much a part of the French dining experience.
