The 2004 movie “Sideways” cemented Santa Barbara County’s reputation as a serious wine-growing region while hastening the decline of merlot, thanks to the main character’s aversion to the red grape varietal: “If anyone orders merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any f***ing merlot!”
Merlot made up close to 20% of California’s red wine market prior to the movie, according to industry reports. A few years later, it dropped to 13%.
The film did heap praise on pinot noir, one of the grape varietals that California’s Central Coast has become known for: “Its flavors, they’re just the most haunting and brilliant and thrilling and subtle and ancient on the planet.”
Sideways was set in and around the Santa Ynez and Santa Rita Hills viniculture areas of Santa Barbara County, which counts wine as the county’s No. 1 finished agricultural product.
Pinot noir is still the star of the show. According to the Santa Barbara Vintners association, 5,500 acres of pinot grapes were planted in the county as of last year. Chardonnay comes in second with 4,176 acres planted. After that comes syrah, sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon, and many others.
There are 70 different wine grape varieties grown in Santa Barbara County, and more than 275 wineries.
How good are the wines? Santa Barbara Wine Country was named Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s Wine Region of the Year for 2021. Take that, Napa!
3-Hour Drive
Having discovered the charms of the Central Coast some 20 years ago, I make annual pilgrimages to Santa Rita Hills and Los Olivos District, two of the main wine regions in Santa Barbara County.
If you haven’t been to the Central Coast wineries, what are you waiting for? This is the perfect time to go—the grape vines are plush and almost ready for harvest, the summer tourist travel is winding down, and the area is three hours from Orange County, making it a prime weekend getaway spot.
Like many wine aficionados, I have my favorite Santa Barbara County wineries, but I also enjoy visiting those not on my usual list. Santa Barbara Vintners and The Wine Militia recently arranged tastings at three wineries: Zaca Mesa, Foley and Roblar.
I’ve been to Zaca Mesa but not for several years. I’ve had Foley wine but never journeyed to their tasting room. Roblar was new to me. I came away with good experiences at all three wineries.
Visit sbcountywines.com for more information on Santa Barbara County lodging, restaurants, and of course, wineries.
Zaca Mesa
Established in 1973 and celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, Zaca Mesa is a family-owned and operated winery with a longstanding history in Santa Barbara County.
As the first vineyard to plant syrah in the area in 1978, Zaca Mesa has since helped pioneer the Santa Barbara Rhône movement through an unwavering dedication to syrah—Rhône wines are those planted in the Rhône region of France, especially syrah, grenache and mourvèdre.
Winemaker and General Manager Kristin Bryden told me they make some two dozen different wines and many are 100% varietal specific because she “wants to show the true character of the wine.”
“What is unique about Santa Barbara County is that we can grow so many different grape varietals here, both Rhône style and Bordeaux,” Bryden said. “That makes it a fantastic place to visit for anyone who enjoys pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon and syrah.”
As to the secrets of growing and producing good pinot noir, Bryden said the Santa Maria Valley and Santa Rita Hills AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) offer cooler soil and climate, and produce phenomenal wine with wonderful, velvety structure.
While Zaca Mesa is technically in Los Olivos District, they are actually a few miles down Foxen Canyon Road.
“It’s a destination—you don’t just happen upon us,” Bryden said. “It’s a beautiful drive if you want to experience wine country and the vineyards.”
Zaca Mesa has two 50th Anniversary events coming up this fall: an elegant Harvest Wine Dinner on Oct. 28, and the 50th Anniversary Fall Fiesta on Nov. 18.
Visit zacamesa.com.
Foley Estates
Any visit to Santa Rita Hills should include a visit to Foley Estates. Founded by vintner Bill Foley in the late 1990s, the winery totals 500 vineyard acres planted to primarily chardonnay and pinot noir.
The quality of fruit that comes off this ranch can be attributed to strict winemaking protocols and the unique terroir of the vineyard sites. To guarantee the best possible fruit, the viticulture and winemaking teams have developed a unique micro-farming program that involves the mapping of soils and topography using soil pits and aerial photography.
Perhaps even more impressive than the attention to winemaking details: one of Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s annual Wine Star Awards was given to Bill Foley, considered one of the most influential vintners in California. His 2022 Lifetime Achievement Award was presented at the Wine Enthusiast Awards Dinner earlier this year.
As founder and owner of Foley Family Wines, Foley owns Lincourt Vineyards, Foley Estates Vineyard & Wine and Firestone Vineyard, among others.
Before tasting Foley wines, I was given an ATV tour of the property including the vineyards and gained a greater understanding of the essence of Foley winery.
I also did a walkthrough of the barrel room and learned the history of the Foley winery and the land, which goes back to the mid-1880s when settlers moved to the area and established ranches. As people moved out in the 1990s, the land opened up for planting grape vines.
The ATV tours are open to the public, as are a wine and cheese pairing experience. You can also reserve a tasting for up to six guests. And like Zaca Mesa, Foley is dog friendly. Foley is within the city limits of Lompoc along Highway 46.
Visit foleywines.com.
Roblar Winery & Vineyards
Roblar produces a variety of wines on the estate property, including sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir.
Roblar has a majestic tasting room and a charmingly rustic patio where lunch is served Monday through Saturday.
The Gleason family owns Roblar as well as Refugio Ranch, which has a tasting room in Los Olivos, a few miles from Roblar.
According to Callie Gleason Bieszard, director of marketing for Roblar, her parents fell in love with the central coast and its renegade spirit 20 years ago. They purchased property that became Refugio Ranch and planted Rhone-style grapes.
In 2017, they acquired Roblar, and the family created Gleason Family Vineyards as an umbrella company.
“Roblar is a place people can come and experience the Santa Ynez valley and see what it has to offer,” Bieszard stated. “We have a serious focus on the quality of the wine, and the land and the fruit.”
Part of the Roblar acquisition included land that is now Roblar Farm, with 3 acres of produce, a collection of chickens and pigs, plus a guest house that sleeps 10 and a casita that sleeps six.
Bieszard noted that Santa Rita Hills and Santa Ynez have become robust wine regions that have a lot to offer visitors, from beautiful tasting rooms to fun experiences.
“We are three hours from Orange County, our wines are competitively priced. We have a syrah for $50, and you can’t even do a wine tasting for that in Napa. People tell me they are not as excited to go to Napa anymore.”
Visit roblarwinery.com.
Pacific Wine & Food Classic Returns
If you can’t make it to Wine Country this year, let Wine Country come to you.
The Pacific Wine & Food Classic returns to Newport Dunes Waterfront Resort on Saturday, Sept. 30.
The event includes tastings from more than two dozen wineries, and cuisine courtesy of three dozen chefs.
“More than half of the wineries this year are new,” said Pamela Waitt, president of OC Restaurant Association, and founder of Pacific Wine & Food Classic. “Plus, the chefs and food will be incredible.”
New this year is the Gelsons experience, the TacoTuesday.com Silent Disco, The Big Tent featuring all San Luis Obispo wineries, and a few other surprises, Waitt said.
“People have become so fond of the event, so we elevate and freshen it each year while trying to not change too much. It’s funny how this event has become such a tradition for so many.”
The waterfront event includes premium cocktails by Ketel One, Maker’s Mark, El Tesoro Tequila, and Ron Zacapa Rum.
Returning to the 2023 Pacific Wine & Food Classic is the Taco Garden, presented by TacoTuesday.com, featuring a smorgasbord of tacos from restaurants including Chela’s, Descanso, Rodrigo’s, Red O and Puesto.
Among the many wineries: San Simeon, Austin Hope, Jadot, Keller Estate, Kessler-Haak, ONX Wines, Baileyana Winery, Rancho Capistrano and Terlato.
Chef Lineup
While the wines are excellent, the chefs take center stage.
Participants this year include: BlueGold (Chef Jorge Valines), Cambalache (Executive Chef Leo Razo), “Chopped” Champion Chef Joe Youkhan, Descanso Restaurant (Chef Jose Angulo), Farmhouse at Roger’s Gardens (Owner & Executive Chef Rich Mead), Five Crowns and Side Door (Executive Chef Matthew Luna), Lido Bottle Works (Executive Chef Joel Gutierrez), LSXO (Chef Jorge Valines), Rothschild’s (Chef & Owner Frank Fassero), Sushi Roku (Chef Hiroshi Shima), The Country Club (Executive Chef Eddie Hyman), The Mayor’s Table at Lido House Hotel (Chef Partner Riley Huddleston), Trevor’s at the Tracks (Chef Ronnie Chavez).
Tickets are limited to ensure a quality experience and no overcrowding—which means get your tickets soon before they’re sold out. Visit pacificwineandfood.com.
