More of our iconic and legendary restaurants have closed or soon will.
The list includes The Arches, Riviera at the Fireside and La Vie en Rose, all recently gone, while Tradition by Pascal is set to close Feb. 15, and The Ritz is ending an almost 30-year run at Newport Center later this year. Times change, new generations perceive the world differently and the old culinary standards that formed the foundation for everything that has emerged in kitchens over the years are often forgotten.
In the trend toward high-energy, open-air spaces—most of them not meant for intimacy—food now comes with artfulness beyond the simplicity of the past. But what set the stage for where we are today deserves acknowledgement and respect.
As the younger generation steps forth with their hip concepts and over-populated spaces, there are fewer of us who appreciate—and sometimes crave—a quiet space, a plate of superb-tasting but unfettered food and an aura of subdued elegance where the past found the true gourmets and glamorous personalities in residence and where romantic dining is still king.
It’s a way of dining that can no longer compete in a big way.
But an element of fine dining constituents still look forward to the rebirth of the Riviera, the Ritz and La Vie en Rose, all of them expressing plans to reopen in new spaces after their inability to advance new leases.
Who knows, these refined venues might even cause a “new” trend sometime in the future.
My heart really sank when I got the first phone call from Louis Laulhere, before the official word was released, that he was closing the beloved La Vie at the end of January after 27 years. The closing came not because of Louis’ desires, but because the replica of a Normandy, France, country home was destined by the property owners to be demolished and turned into yet another modern façade with a Lazy Dog Cafe on the lower level and offices in the remainder of the space.
La Vie was the only restaurant in Orange County where we would consistently hear some diners conversing in French. It was a down-home Gallic enclave in décor, food, language and suave service for the French-born, and those of us of French heritage and the multi-lingual variety.
It is a poignant situation for a lot of diners, and, even sadder, all of the closings are leaving a plethora of industry workers without jobs.
You only have until mid-month to have a final lunch or dinner with Pascal Olhats at his Traditions by Pascal restaurant in Newport Beach. In another end-of-lease scenario, he’s closing this, his first solo venture that has delighted us for more than two decades. He will continue, however, to operate his Pascal Épicerie next to the Traditions site and Pascal in Santa Ana, along with Café Jardin at Sherman Gardens in Corona del Mar.
Taléo Closed
Taléo owner Nic Villarreal brought along a chef from Mexico City when the restaurant opened a few years ago. And some of the most authentic Mexican food this side of the border was ours amidst friendly but sophisticated surroundings. Nic decided to go back to his family roots in New Mexico early last year. Moe Ghazi, a restaurateur with other local eateries, took over last April.
He changed it to a Mexican-Asian fusion restaurant, put a couple of chopsticks in the middle of the Mexican logo and hoped for the best. The restaurant has now closed, a mere 10 months later.
We became regulars over the years because of the best carnitas in Orange County, interesting fresh fish preparations with Mexican sauces, and the creamiest and most delicious flan. The fusion part was left out of the equation for our way of dining in this last go-around. It will be interesting to see if another restaurant will take on this location.
Spectrum Cucina
Friends from San Diego had wanted us to try Cucina Urbana with them when we were down their way. That hadn’t happened, but then came the first announcement a few months ago of the impending opening of a sister restaurant, Cucina Enoteca, in the Irvine Spectrum. It has now arrived in style to join a bunch of other newbies at this center.
Enoteca had me aching to return quickly as I finished my first meal. Upon entering, it had a certain look of serious casualness, absolute comfort and wine-entwined-with-food direction that was compelling. It was quiet enough to have conversations. The cooks looked intent as they worked in the stainless-steel kitchen.
I liked that we were seated at a table near the kitchen where we had a good view of the activity (from table 31). Then the food began to arrive, fully explained and delivered with finesse by Helen, a friendly waitress pro.
I expected the food to be good due to reports that were coming my way and because executive chef LuLu De Rouen had cooked several fine meals for us in the past when she’d been the chef de cuisine at two other restaurants. One can be taken aback by LuLu because she’s so young, not yet 30, and so dynamic.
We sighed many times while demolishing an appetizer collection. One can choose one or several unique items that are so beautifully served on a board. We had gorgonzola and walnut mousse (extraordinary), duck rillettes with apricot mustard, burrata cheese with roasted garlic, sliced poached pears and a few other condiments to go with the addictive mini rosemary-potato focaccia loaves that are also made daily.
My all-time favorite pasta is bucatini and this seldom-found specialty is on LuLu’s menu mingled with an amatriciana sauce and guanciale (cured pork).
The cavatelli with shredded duck pasta also impressed.
There are meats like steak, veal, Berkshire pork chop and free-range chicken. Of pizzas, I’m taken with the honey-roasted eggplant one and the wild mushroom pie.
The front of the restaurant is like a mini wine shop. Customers can choose a value-priced wine to take away or have it served for a mere $8 corkage.
In looks, food and pricing, this restaurant is hitting high notes for me. Pizza and pasta entrées are $13 to $19.50, meat entrées at dinner are $16 to $29. Five prix fixe menus are other alternatives.
The lunch menu has a daily special and sandwich options as well. There are also nightly themed specials that really cut the cost of dining down. The kids menu is a lot more interesting for them and certainly more nutritious than most other places. Open from 11 a.m. Happy hour is daily from 3 to 6 p.m., with reduced cocktail and wine prices.
You might as well get caught in the Cucina Enoteca web with me. It’s at 31 Fortune Drive, Irvine Spectrum, (949) 861-2222.
Encore in Tustin
Tucked into the corner of a shopping center on El Camino Real in Old Town Tustin—and with its large signage handily seen from the freeway—is a dinner theater. It had stood for 30 years as the Elizabeth Howard Theater, until 2005; then for the next half decade it became a Christian fellowship group location followed by yet other owners who gave it a one-year shot as a dinner/entertainment setting.
Last year, new visionaries—who themselves are actually steeped in the traditions of the theater—stepped in and turned it into a welcoming entertainment and dining location with a new name, Encore Dinner Theatre and Club. I have a sense that the right formula has arrived and that OC is going to enjoy this new diversity. The latest principals are Peter Zappas, the owner; Conwell S. Worthington II, executive producer at the Encore and chairman of Cornerstone Entertainment International; and producer Kerry McCullough.
A lot of money has been spent redoing the space. Artistic double front doors give way to a pleasant lobby and the actual dinner/theater seating delivers great views of the stage from all tables. There are a few comfortable booths (you’ll have to try for one of them when making reservations), but the new chairs throughout are very cushy for this type of setting.
The doors open at 6 p.m., dinner is served at 6:30 and the performances begin at 8 p.m. A two-course dinner is included in your ticket price. There is also a Sunday Brunch and show on the agenda.
We chose to order almost everything and share family-style since we were a group. A couple of appetizers and a choice of three entrées come with your ticket, while prime rib and stuffed salmon are priced at an additional $9.95.
A trio of desserts is also a la carte. There’s a full bar and wines by the glass and bottle, as well as beers.
In addition to theater-type shows, there are plans to present musical entertainment and to have various staged performances interspersed.
Prices vary according to the entertainment being presented, but ballpark figures are in the $35-to-$67 range.
Final note: They are presenting a special Romantic Valentine evening that might warrant your attention. Encore Dinner Theatre and Club: 690 El Camino Real, Tustin, (855) 545-5400. Information on shows and ticket prices is available at www.encoredinnertheatre.com.
Restaurant Week
Make a note now: Orange County Restaur-ant Week is coming back.
Plan on dining on those three-course $10-to-$20 lunches, as well as three-course $20-to-$40 dinners between Feb. 26 and March 3. More than 100 restaurants will participate.
You’ll want to make reservations, as a lot of people jockey for tables when dining is so cheap. For more information visit www.orangecountyrestaurantweek.com.
