Orange County has seen its share of shakeups recently.
Dan Marceano, the longtime owner/operator of The Arches on Pacific Coast Highway in Newport Beach, has closed the Arches Grill & BBQ in Cannery Village, where he had moved the restaurant two years ago. Marceano let go of the lease at 3334 West Coast Highway to make the move; A Restaurant absorbed the space.
Being the mini-tornado of food and wine that he is, I’m anxious to find out his further plans, and I will let you know what he says when the rascal returns my phone call. Since he does have a love for riding his Harley, he may be taking a break in a warmer climate.
Catching a lot of people off guard was the closing of the Orange County Wine & Food Center (on Scenic Drive in Costa Mesa). This venue began its life years ago as the Robert Mondavi Wine & Food Center and was later used as a catering facility by the Patina restaurant group. Its last incarnation was a center for the Pacific Whey restaurants. No word on where the already booked weddings and upscale events will be held.
In yet more fallout, Waters, the 25-year-old restaurant perched on the North Lake in Irvine’s Woodbridge community, has ceased operation. It had a nice atmosphere with a large and friendly bar and a dining deck that was popular during good weather. But its proximity to the water has taken its toll on the structure and additional issues with the plumbing and electricity will probably make for a costly renewal before another operator might step in.
On the flip side, Anaheim is plus one shiny, new, very large restaurant: The Catch. It is situated next to The Grove in the newly developed area surrounding the stadium and Honda Center. It features a large central bar on a raised floor, an open state-of-the-art kitchen, both booth and table seating and outside walls made almost entirely of glass.
We’ve had many impressive meals (and, thus, booked some special occasions over the years) at the former Catch restaurant that had been just down the street. The food at the new venue has been delicious and very California progressive in presentation. Prime quality seafood and shellfish (wait until you taste the calamari) and meats to please the carnivores delineate the menu. 2100 E. Katella Ave. (ground floor of the AvalonBay luxury residential building), Anaheim, (714) 935-0101.
The Catch isn’t the only new restaurant on the scene.
The old erratic Blanca has turned into the Lido Deck under a new team. The interiors have been redone and the chef, Don Schoenburg, is using a lot of local products in his farm-to-table cooking philosophy. Pastry chef Christie Carter is said to be taking beloved desserts to a new level. I haven’t eaten there yet, but that’s no reason you shouldn’t beat me to it. 3420 Via Oporto, Newport Beach, (949) 673-9500.
Charlie Palmer
Charlie Palmer, busy guy that he is as he looks after more than a dozen restaurants nationwide, was in town for a few days, checking in on his eponymous restaurant here. That was certainly enough for a group of us food-centric folks to gather. I suppose we were in a baiting mood, wanting to see to what heights the cuisine of Charlie and the chef/partner here, Amar Santana, could rise. My goodness, they called our bluff in a big way and had us mesmerized through many courses.
We actually got to taste items that will turn up on seasonal menus and some that are now available. They brought out a green grape gazpacho, a chic turnaround of the usual tomato variety. A stack of tuna tartare was served with a carpaccio-thin slice of caramelized pineapple and a drizzle of coconut curry. We hadn’t anticipated duck at lunch, but a breast glazed with honey and complemented with a dollop of beluga lentils, a few slender green beans and bits of tangerine graced our plates.
A community plate of crispy shishito peppers served tempura style quickly disappeared, so they brought out more. Marrow bones, split lengthwise, became channels holding the luxurious baked marrow (I’ve had this a couple of times here and will gladly do it again).
Then, we were hit with—truthfully—the best bread pudding I have ever tasted. It was light as a cloud, influenced with some rum-soaked raisins and sided with wine poached pear and a scoop of muscovado ice cream. Dreamy food in every way.
Charlie Palmer restaurant has many things going on from Tuesday Wine Flights to the Cellar Sales (one Saturday per month), cooking classes and a monthly wine dinner series. Get your name on their e-mail list for all this time-sensitive info and/or go to the Web site. Charlie Palmer at Bloomingdale’s, 3333 Bristol, Costa Mesa, (714) 352-2525.
Bayside Safari
Bayside has quite a compelling addition to the dining room for the next couple of months: massive paintings of African animals that are nothing short of stunning. Done in a heavy paint style and with remarkable lifelike features, these would add a distinct dimension to any art collection (all art is always for sale at this and their sister restaurant, Bistango). Otherwise, just enjoy them while you treat yourself to some of the best food in the county. It does underline the reason their company name is Dining as Art.
From the current menu, I have had a recent affair with the roasted beets with walnuts, Maine lobster salad, butterflied quail with foie gras, linguine with lamb ragout, tiger prawns with asparagus risotto, boneless pork chop with wild mushrooms and oven-roasted wild halibut. For my continuing culinary trysts, I think I’ll just ask super chef Paul Gstrein to surprise me with his favorites from his menu.
Like so many of our fine restaurants, Bayside also has wine tastings, wine dinners and a fabulous Sunday Brunch. 900 Bayside Dr., Newport Beach, (949) 721-1222.
Gemmell’s Classics
Gemmell’s in Dana Point will soon be 10 years old, but it remains on my list for good classic places to dine. Chef/owner Byron Gemmell put OC on the national dining map in the early ’80s when Gourmet magazine wrote about him and his food when he was at our former La Cuisine of Newport restaurant. He trained under one of the most vaunted French chefs and has always mingled that perfectionist training with his own signature food ideas.
We have recently enjoyed the energy of the new dining spots interspersed with the steady reliance of classic food a la Byron. If you happen to be looking for a feel-good steak house experience, Byron and his wife also own and operate the attractive Vintage Steakhouse (just had its first year anniversary) at the historic Capistrano Depot. Gemmell’s: 34471 Golden Lantern (at Dana Point Harbor), (949) 234-0063. Vintage Steakhouse: 26701-B Verdugo St. (at Camino Capistrano), San Juan Capistrano, (949) 661-3400.
Two Tu Tango
The Paul Kraft and Jim Hall team are much busier these days with the projected fall opening of their second Café Tu Tu Tango in Glendale, Ariz. The new Cardinal Stadium certainly has set the stage for a lot happening in its immediate vicinity—including this international small plate style restaurant. You’ll find the fun and good food at The Block, 20 City Drive, Orange, (714) 769-2222.
Antonello Leadership
Thad Foret, one of the best restaurant managers in OC, has decided to stay on at Antonello Ristorante after owner Antonio Cagnolo made him a partner. We have appreciated the suave service under Thad’s management for so many years and this is half of a stellar reason to keep the restaurant on your A-list. The other reason is the teaming of chef Gino Buonanoce (a superb chef originally from Italy and recently on board here) and Sal Farrara (longtime sidekick in the Antonello kitchen) as co-executive chefs. The food is to savor and that good looking atmosphere and wine program under sommelier Steve Ebol are more draws to this restaurant. 1611 Sunflower Ave. (South Coast Plaza Village), Santa Ana, (714) 751-7153.
