WOODY’S AT THE BEACH
Address:
1305 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach
Phone:
(949) 376-8809
Prices:
Entrees run from $11 to $27; wine prices begin at $15
Early this summer, after we and the three other couples returned from the Loire Valley in France and we needed to have a post-trip get-together to laugh and look at pictures and reminisce, one of the couples suggested we go to Woody’s at the Beach in Laguna Beach. As it turned out, only one couple did not know about chef Zachary Zeigler’s food and we figured they needed an initiation.
Zachary changes his menus seasonally, thus some of the dishes I’ve had in several visits will be available,the signature dishes,while others such as seasonal fish may vary a little. Introduced not long ago is the three-tier seafood starter. On the night of our post-France visit, the bowl on the upper shelf of the metal serving stand held roasted black mussels in white wine with basil chiffonade. I ordinarily prefer oysters to mussels, but this superbly seasoned broth had me taking seconds, and everyone at our table dipped crusty rolls and laughingly fought over the last of the mussels. The plate on the second tier held lobster and shrimp ceviche, nicely spiced and cured with citrus juice. The lower shelf showed off a plate of crushed ice cradling Washington stateoysters with a ramekin of mignonette sauce. Think you know escargot? When did you last have them braised with a backbone of Cognac and ginger? We lavished praise over a special appetizer of the evening, stuffed zucchini blossoms. On a lovely plate came a bed of Israeli couscous (fatter grains and much creamier than usual) dappled at the edges with red pepper coulis. Atop the couscous were crunchy tempura-style blossoms stuffed with a mild goat cheese. A tower-like first course presentation is rare ahi slices, roasted yellow peppers, tomatoes and slices of avocado with rivulets of chipotle vinaigrette floating off it. It makes quite a statement. Still in the appetizer realm are very crisp duck confit spring rolls that should not be missed. They sit on a mattress of field greens sided with a mound of mango salsa.
A salad of baby greens, Stilton cheese and roasted walnuts edged with D’Anjou pear slices is really fine, as is the Mediterranean chopped salad of cucumbers, tomatoes, heart of Romaine and feta cheese. The mussel and saffron chowder is creamy and rich, my husband’s favorite. There are always at least five pasta dishes. Go right for the fettuccine courting plenty of freshly smoked salmon (done in-house) with green peppercorn and Cognac sauce.
Every evening there’s a prix fixe three-course dinner at approximately $24, and some specials.
Since one of the investors is Dan Ketelaars, whose high-end restaurant-supply company flies in very gourmet fowl and wild game from places such as Scotland, produce such as truffles and exotic mushrooms and specialty fish from around the world, the menu entrees here reflect a lot of that. I had the pintade one evening, which is guinea fowl from France. A luxurious risotto perfumed with truffles and a fence of miniature patty-pan squash, turnips and carrots accompanied the fork-tender, flavorful bird. Only days before, I had been eating pintade in France; this was superior. When managing partner Joel Herzer came to the table to check if all was well, he shared several stories about dishes that Zachary was able to prepare that were so like their home countries due to the restaurant’s access to Dan’s imports. One of our friends had the alder smoked pork tenderloin, which I’d had on another occasion and liked. It matches so well the flavors of the caramelized green apples, chipotle chiles and the tenderness of garlic mashed potatoes. A fanned out grilled sirloin of Llamb is really nice with a marjoram-enhanced Chardonnay sauce.
OK, so you’ve had meatloaf at other restaurants. But which one, I ask, has made theirs with roasted duck? Add a slightly zippy Syrah wine glaze with plumped wine-braised grapes and some pistachios and you’re going to culinary places you’ve never been. Likewise, I know of no better preparation of tender braised veal cheeks. These mingle amid flavors of Madeira wine and tomatoes and the citrus nuances in the polenta on which it sits. The fresh sea bass here is from New Zealand waters and the white, firm flesh benefits from its almond crust and the lemon-caper-brown butter sauce that puddles around it. For purists, a New York strip steak is pan roasted and served with a variety of wild mushrooms. This is only the tip of the iceberg here. It’s such a food-driven restaurant. Desserts like mascarpone espresso mousse, molten ganache cake, frozen Grand Marnier souffl & #233; and Champagne-peach “shake” make a definitive ending statement. The wine list is one of my favorites around since it is loaded with food-friendly wines at decent prices.
