Now that Michelin has realized we have noteworthy restaurants in Orange County, they need to come back, correct some oversights and award stars to more OC restaurants.
Among those overlooked in the star category—although they are in the Michelin guide as “The Plate”—is Marche Moderne, which is generally acknowledged as the best French restaurant in Southern California.
Owner-chefs Florent and Amelia Marneau launched Marche more than 10 years ago at South Coast Plaza, and moved the restaurant to Newport Coast last fall.
Florent and Amelia were named the Business Journal’s Chefs of the Year in 2018, and continue to create stunning cuisine. Case in point—their new Sunday brunch, which they launched several weeks ago. The menu is sensational, full of French classics and new twists on familiar fare, such as their deviled eggs.
I had brunch there last weekend, and ordered a deviled egg sampler of Meyer lemon, smoked salmon, suckling pig pork belly, and black and white truffle scented deviled eggs. The presentation alone was a feast for the eyes, but devouring these “egg-citing” creations was pure bliss. I savored every bite, noting the harmony of flavors.
Next was a traditional French style soft omelette stuffed with homemade fine herb goat cheese.
It’s rare when anything this delicate tastes so rich. The goat cheese and herbs are a nice complement to the soft omelette.
Completing my brunch trifecta was the signature French toast, but not just any French toast. This spectacle started with a generous chunk of brioche, then added macadamia nougatine, coco-mango gelato, vanilla anglaise, and passion fruit crème monte. Soft and decadent, this is everything I could want in French toast, and more.
In my opinion, Marche Moderne is worthy of a Michelin star.
Worth a Journey
Journeyman’s Food & Drink in Fullerton, which I wrote about last year, should also be included in the next guide. Executive Chef Zachary Geerson has a passion for creating inspired cuisine, which he calls “progressive American. I don’t want to say modern American. Progressive helps us to have a dialogue with the guests without talking to them.”
His prix-fixe menu is “the most genuine way for me to be able to show you what I think is the epitome of good culinary ideas.” Geerson has taken the concept of dining to another level, and deserves to be acknowledged.
Mina’s Steak
Chef Michael Mina oversees 30 concepts around the world, including Bourbon Steak at the Monarch Beach Resort.
“My job as a chef, and my team’s job, is to make food come alive,” said Mina. “We strive to create incredible meals each and every day that make our guests sit up, take notice, experience delight and wonder ‘exactly what was in that dish?’”
From the décor to the service and to the cuisine that runs the gamut from traditional to unconventional, the Dana Point iteration of Bourbon Steak—Mina has a few locations in the country under the same name—is serious about its gastronomic experience and deserves to be recognized by Michelin.
Mina’s namesake restaurant in downtown San Francisco received a star. Chef Raj Dixit is its executive chef; he previously oversaw the Dana Point resort’s restaurant when it was known as Stonehill Tavern.
Don’t Forget…
The Ranch in Anaheim received “The Plate” designation from Michelin, but I think it deserves more than that. Chef Michael Rossi’s seasonally driven menu includes hand selected produce harvested from its own farm. The dazzling desserts are courtesy of Pastry Chef David Rossi.
Vaca in Costa Mesa also received “The Plate” distinction, but Executive Chef Amar Santana—who also owns Broadway by Amar Santana—operates like a Michelin-starred chef, which he deserves to be. I’ve dined at his restaurants several times and attended special wine dinners, and am consistently impressed with his cuisine.
I have been a fan of The Winery since they opened the Tustin location 10 years ago, followed by the Newport Beach location overlooking Newport harbor. The décor at the Newport location is dazzling, the food amazingly consistent, and the service always attentive. If this isn’t a Michelin restaurant … well, it should be.
I especially like Napa Rose at the Grand Californian Hotel. I dine here several times a year for special occasions or just to have a great meal in a classy setting. The chef’s table is the place to be. Each course is different for each person in your party, as is the wine pairing. Executive Chef Andrew Sutton keeps a close watch on the menu and is passionate about using seasonal ingredients.
And why does Andrea Restaurant at Pelican Hill Resort not have a Michelin designation? The Resort itself is one of the best in the country, and Andrea keeps up with an Italian menu featuring seasonal ingredients, housemade pastas, impeccable service, and a view of the Pacific that never quits.
I also recommend Studio at Montage Laguna Beach, where Craig Strong once held court.
The Montage launched an afternoon tea service last month, and I had the privilege of being the first to try it, along with fellow foodie and frequent dining companion Della Lisi.
My last afternoon tea experience was high tea at Canada’s Empress Hotel on Victoria Island, so my expectations were set high. The Montage tea exceeded my expectations.
The setting in the lobby lounge—indoors or on the patio—offers a relaxing tea service.
Start with choosing one of 15 teas. I had the bourbon vanilla herbal tea, while Della ordered a signature ginger peach. Both came out in French presses. An assortment of savory sandwiches followed: minted cucumber, smoked salmon with caviar, organic egg salad with spring onion, and Maine lobster with lemon crème. We savored the sandwiches. No, we devoured them.
Then it was on to classic and raisin scones served with clotted crème, homemade strawberry and rose petal jams, plus lemon blackberry cream bun, grand cru chocolate rose, raspberry-violet macaroon, and honey-apricot financier. Topping it off was a final course of orange almond cake.
The setting was relaxing and refined with live piano music, the sandwiches and desserts surprisingly substantial, and the teas packed with flavor. A Michelin-worthy experience.
