For some reason, I recently had the thought that Orange County has a knot in its britches about who and what we are in the culinary psyche. People will not leave their hometown enclaves to experience things across the county. No wonder the jammed traffic saps the adventurous spirit to try what’s new.
Because we are an early dining crowd, we have only a few really spendy places. Those are the ones where the Lambos, Ferraris and other royalty autos are parked conspicuously at the front entrance. My Prius doesn’t qualify and gets hidden in an invisible spot. My readers know that this kid from Kansas could care less. I have never been to a restaurant to watch where they parked my car.
The explosion of cookie-cutter fast food joints proves we are not Los Angeles or San Fran. But there are some clever restaurateurs who have started their own breed of eateries that take us a bit uptown, and they are situating their indies in carefully selected pockets of the county with just the right smidge of cosmopolitan embellishment.
These are places with owners who understand that interesting, inviting, chef-driven menus can be done without ego. And we don’t have to hassle with the traffic, just go to the one that’s closest to you.
Right now, the team at Vine in San Clemente and Ironwood in Laguna Hills is leading the pack. Each restaurant has its own menu and, after many visits, I am still liking everything on them. They are opening a third restaurant later this year in Newport Beach. Conversation-friendly atmosphere is calmer, too. I think that they’ve set a new standard and that more of these midlevel styles that have no relationship to fast food will be following.
Good Kind of Cheesy
Five Crowns, the cozy English pub that’s been comforting the public since 1965, gave us an even more cuddly way of eating when, a few years ago, the side entrance to the bar introduced us to some sink-in comfort in a whole new way. A room with couches, plates of clever nibbles, cheeses, fun cocktails, beers and wines made it impossible to resist. SideDoor has been a great success.
Now they’ve added one more reason each month for us to gather friends and try cheeses from specialty fromageries and creameries. Wednesday, July 19, the Willamette Valley Cheese Co. of Salem, Ore. will be showcased.
All this unfolds as Five Crowns and SideDoor introduced their new executive chef, Anthony Endy, who’s most recently been chef/partner and director of culinary operations at Paul Martin’s American Grill. I am an admirer of the Paul Martin’s concept of sustainable agriculture and Chef Endy’s cooking style, which fits the growing middle menus I’ve been referring to that are delicious and unpretentious. Prior to joining Paul Martin’s, Endy was sous chef for acclaimed chef Julie Robles. Nice catch, Five Crowns and Side Door. 3801 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar, (949) 717-4322
‘Green’ Tacos
Ivan Calderon has hit the 25-year mark with his Taco Mesa and Taco Rosa restaurants. His latest venture is Taco Mesa—Tortilleria Organica & Café. Ivan has been a fan of healthful food for years. Now he’s gone all the way with only non-GMO masa for tortillas in all of the restaurants. The food overall is made with organic greens and consumable flowers, heirloom produce, wild-caught seafood and sustainable products as much as possible.
Have a good feeling while tasting the deliciousness. 3533 E. Chapman, Orange, (714) 633-3922
More OC Puesto
Puesto has given us its second restaurant. When they came to Orange County last year—the original restaurant was in La Jolla in San Diego County—it was one of the new chic but unpretentious genre we’re speaking of. It has its own unique style of tacos stuffed with quality ingredients served in a trio of choices. Tacos gone uptown, for sure. Though you can see the chefs and kitchen from almost all seats, it’s extra fun to catch one of the booths or seats in the kitchen itself. Puesto is in Olivos Marketplace near the Spectrum and is soon coming to Park Place, both Irvine locations.
Worth the Detour
Do you know about the unique restaurant, Back Bay Bistro, in Newport? If not, you need to catch up with the times.
For decades, we drove through the vast boat parking lot at Newport Dunes to get to the laid-back restaurant there. It was not about the food, merely a way to sit near the water somewhere. We must still drive through that droll lot, but it’s only a route to a surprisingly attractive and serious restaurant that has become part of our destination dining.
The architectural changes began back in 1989, when it was turned into a nice open-air cafe with water views. Five years ago, VP and GM of Newport Dunes, Andrew Theodoreau, began an ambitious $1.5 million remake of the Back Bay Bistro property that has led us to today’s destination spot. The former open pavilion space became the current circular restaurant enclosed in floor-to-ceiling glass walls and a million-dollar retractable roof.
A designer was brought in who furnished the restaurant and bar with attractive custom-crafted bamboo tables surrounded by lattice chairs. Throw in glittery chandeliers and some designer artifacts, and it’s quite the chic-looking space.
A restaurant is still about food, and this kitchen is the vision of Chef Bruno Massuger, who first caught our attention when he was the chef at Center Club. His menu at Back Bay takes advantage of his French heritage and training techniques but is geared to all of the fresh products diners now expect.
The new summer menu has just been introduced. Try some of the refreshing summer takes in the dining room and take advantage of an ongoing menu of social events at the resort that are geared to all sorts of family fun.
Here are a few new menu items and why I like them: Ahi Tower shows the delicacy of hand-cut ahi served with a sublime avocado, tomato, and citrus gastrique. Chilean Sea Bass is Asian-inspired with a smooth coconut Thai peanut curry sauce and Asian mushrooms. Rack of Lamb is a top-notch version with mustard and fresh herb crust sided with goat cheese polenta and mint jus.
Moist King Salmon is happily sitting on a bed of English pea risotto with Chardonnay sauce, so summery. I could eat this chef’s Pan Seared John Dory from now on. The fresh French persillé butter and lemon aioli drizzled on the wild mushroom risotto is like an all-time classic.
There’s a summer program schedule at the Dunes with many family days of entertainment and food venues, one of which is the famous yearly lobster fest. The date for that is Aug. 6 from 3-6 p.m. It’s an evening of pure deliciousness. To buy tickets to any of the popular events, go to https://www.newportdunes.com/
event/lobsterfest-newport-beach. 1131 Back Bay Drive, Newport Beach, (949) 729-1144
