Savannah Chop House at Golden Lantern and Camino del Avion in the Ocean Ranch Village of Laguna Niguel is closed. It was one of the few restaurants whose dining room featured large booths, and it was for us quite the comfortable atmosphere. The food had been interesting, but it had a thing with the same chef coming and going. He’d been there for a time, left to chase another frying pan at Laguna’s Tortilla Republic, left there to go back to Savannah, left again to go to a Santa Ana restaurant, and is now at yet another place. So far, I don’t know what will go in the Savannah space.
Second part of the happenings at the same location: Fred’s Mexican Cafe, a longtime contender in the fresh homemade Mexican category, also is closed. However, that space is spoken for. The partners of Driftwood Kitchen are planning to turn it into Hendrix. John Nye, Colby Durnin and chef Rainer Schwarz are enjoying themselves with the success of Driftwood Kitchen and The Deck at their oceanfront location in Laguna Beach but decided to take advantage of the opportunity. This one is at least six months away, though. More to come as the restaurant nears completion early next year.
Notable ongoing category: Sushi Roku at Fashion Island recently celebrated its first anniversary. Stop by ASAP if you are a first-time diner, because this is a serious, lovely looking place that is keeping our attention with the most creative kinds of sushi, and even a few nonsushi Japanese food specialties. For those who already know Sushi Roku, the menu has been expanded, and the new items are pretty memorable. We’ve tried a bunch of new dishes interspersed with old favorites, and this is a restaurant to put on your priority list. 327 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach, (949) 706-3622
Update on a Classic
Bistango in Irvine recently brought a new executive chef aboard. Tim Doolittle is the former protege of Emeril Lagasse and Wolfgang Puck, and you must experience his nuances to the menu. Old favorites are still there, along with new additions, but the sense of absolutely enticing food has been heightened. I’ve already worked my way through some of the summer menu and am on my way back for more.
Bistango has been one of Orange County’s all-star restaurants since 1987. It was a sensation at the outset and has been able to keep its power clients, general congregation of food lovers, and overall panache because it always kept up with the times.
The modern, beautifully plated food ushered in an era of feasting with the eyes and the palate, and set the standard that still endures. The restaurant also entices diners with the classiest level of unique art-inspired surroundings, an excellent bar and lounge, and splendid live music every evening. For a classy business or personal lunch, or a sophisticated evening meal, this is a top pick—and even more so now. 19100 Von Karman Ave., Irvine, (949) 752-2222
New Taste Explorations
Remember Nello Cucina at the Bear Street address of South Coast Plaza? Forget Nello—it’s closed. After an Italian-influenced run spanning many years, the space needed refreshing in many ways, and that came about via Mezzet Mediterranean Grille, which opened about six weeks ago. There is a new vibrancy there. The food now delves into Mediterranean cuisine while keeping some of the best Italian dishes that customers might wish for.
The decor has a sunny, coastal Mediterranean stylishness incorporating natural woods and rustic touches of wrought iron and rattan. The multilevel seating areas offer added interest, and the open elevated area features attractive canopied awnings, a friendly and quite attractive bar with additional seating, and a swath of inviting tables and chairs. The newly added, intimate outdoor patio is decidedly charming, offering both dining possibilities and sofas for lounging and enjoying a coffee or glass of wine. The shiny new stainless steel open kitchen along one wall subliminally suggests a seriousness about delivering good food.
The restaurant is named for the wide array of Middle Eastern small plates called mezze that in this case cull taste explorations from the cultures of Spain, Morocco, Lebanon, Greece and the South of France.
Patrick, our friend and I began a recent meal with the Mezze Sampler consisting of hummus, baba ghanoush, and a tabouleh salad of cracked wheat and veggies. All were tasty, but I was especially taken by the deeply satisfying flavors of the baba ghanoush, the tahini-influenced eggplant puree. Octopus Carpaccio was another pleasing dish. The freshly made pita bread triangles for scooping were rather addictive on their own.
Stuffed Grape Leaves, Patatas Bravas, Grilled Langoustines with red quinoa tabouleh, Fried Lamb Kibbeh, and Mixed Mediterranean Olives are still on my wish list. And that’s only in the appetizer category.
Beef, chicken, fish, lamb, pastas and pizzas—a chic pizza oven is part of the kitchen redo—are some tempting entree categories. We had a special of Grilled Sole with a diced tomato relish—fresh, delicate, tasty.
My curiosity is piqued anytime the word tajine appears on a menu. Images of Moroccan tajine and b’stilla dance in my head. Chicken or lamb are the meats central to two versions on this menu. We opted for the Lamb Tajine that turned out to be one of the best I’ve had in Orange County. The portion was so generous, half of it went home with us and became a big lunch the next day. Atop a hefty mattress of delicate couscous sat a big, tender lamb shank. Add in the savory flavors of Moroccan 7 Spice, roasted honey-cumin carrots and blistered grapes, and it was shouting winner all the way. I’m definitely ordering it again. We also ordered the Grilled Shrimp Pasta.
The proprietors of Mezzet are Joseph Dib and Wael Nasser, co-owners of Boubouffe Mediterranean Grille on lively Second Street in Long Beach. Joseph is a familiar face at South Coast Plaza. For more than 25 years, he has been the general manager at the popular Antonello Espresso Cafe.
Really enjoyed what we had at the first try. More visits are needed and happily anticipated. So far, I surmise that the shoppers and destination diners will all find worthwhile times at Mezzet. Level One, South Coast Plaza-Crate and Barrel/Macy’s Home Store Wing, 3333 Bear St., Costa Mesa, (714) 540-3365
Breakfast With a Twist
Snooze, an A.M. Eatery is a morning and lunchtime concept out of Denver that was founded in 2006. After 15 other locations, it just opened one in Tustin. Let’s begin by saying you will find upscale casual surroundings and plenty of energy. Its idea centers on “all day breakfast, brunch and boozy breakfast cocktails” by giving classic foods creative twists. Actual operating hours are 6:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Keep in mind that you can find familiar preparations of breakfast items. But it’s the creative come-hither ideas built on a breakfast foundation that fascinate the eater. Segue from the plainer pancakes to the Pineapple Upside Down Pancakes. Rethink your friendship with sausage-flavored gravy and go with the Breakfast Pot Pie, where the delicious gravy covers puff pastry and is topped with eggs cooked your way and some hash browns. Quinoa Porridge includes oats, walnuts, seasonal berries and whipped mascarpone cheese.
Create your own bit of magic on any dish by adding a quality breakfast meat or other side item.
Meanwhile, consider that a bunch of morning cocktails are as creative as the ones you’ll find at lunch and dinner establishments. Tequila, gin, vodka, bourbon and other standbys sneak into the cheeky mixtures. You might change your early-in-the-day drinking habits.
Imagine seven kinds of Benedict, even Chilaquiles Benedict with poblano hollandaise. Think of fine ingredients adding élan to every order. This is food I can enjoy often. It’s a great concept for me, as it certainly takes the mundane out of all my breakfast thoughts. 3032 El Camino Real, Tustin, (714) 415-6269
Re Alessandro
Alessandro Pirozzi is building a mini-empire of Italian restaurants and dining ideas in Laguna Beach and Corona del Mar. The current news is that he’s opening a fourth restaurant in Laguna, a small place whose name hasn’t been released. Alessandro says that another unique-to-the-restaurant menu will prevail.
Our taste buds were dazzled when he opened Alessa on Forest Avenue in downtown Laguna. Then we discovered his Mare Culinary Lounge on PCH in Laguna and the follow-up Pirozzi, also on PCH but in Corona del Mar. At the latter one, it took only one look at the huge, custom pizza oven designed in Italy to make us crave pizza.
Tasting the perfect pizzas, Italian pastas and specialty dishes has made us loyalists of all his restaurants. Each of the locations honors authentic recipes but has its own personality and menu items. Alessandro has always made all pasta fresh daily in his own facility, and when combined with the best local and imported ingredients (the most refined pizza flour from Italy, imported cured olives, etc.) he commands top Italian billing.
I will be among the very first to try the new restaurant when it opens in a month or so with yet more Italian regional dishes to discover.
