Cousins, siblings, in-laws, sons and daughters seem to be around every bend in the winding, overstuffed corridors, aisles and nooks of this 22,000-square-foot wine and spirits mecca.
Nephew Jordan Hanson handles beer, sodas, craft cocktails and accessories. Cousin Vicki Brown works in the upstairs office. Son Charlie Hirst handles online sales.
Brother Keith Hirst is the liquor buyer, and sister-in-law Tracy handles the gourmet food section and gift items, such as candies, cheeses and spreads. Her son, Jordan, is the specialty beverage buyer.
Don Hirst, another brother, is the maintenance guru.
Cousin Nick Hanson receives products, and nephew Parker Joyce ships them out.
Nephew Blayne Hirst also works in the shipping department and many others.
“I’m running the store now,” says Chief Executive Diana Hirst of Hi-Time Wine Cellars, the recipient of the Business Journal’s 19th annual Family-Owned Business Award for longevity (see profiles of other winners, pages 1, 4 and 6).
Her father, who still reports to the store at age 91, is on an annual summer fishing trip in Northern California.
Long Reach
On this morning, 100 to 300 boxes of wine will be shipped from the Costa Mesa mainstay to addresses across the U.S.
Nonfamily employees, such as Creative Director Toby Sharp, have devoted just as much time here over the years. Sharp, who handles social media and advertising campaigns, has been with the company for 25 years. Champagne buyer Jim Duane is on his second tour of duty and has the same number of years under his belt.
Store Manager Josh Hoover has been coming to work here since 1994.
Bookkeeper Alma Kottelanne began her tenure at their former deli 40 years ago, when ledgers ruled the day. Her daughter, Katie, now handles customer service.
First Bottles
The family tree of the business was planted in 1957, when Frans “Fritz” Hanson and Jim McVay opened the first location at 17th Street and Irvine Avenue on the site of a former lima bean and yam farm. It was owned and operated by Fritz’ parents, Cecil and Gladys McVay.
The original wine cellar, built in 1961, was the brainchild of Frans’ brother, Harold, who came across wine caves in Burgundy, France, as a solider during World War II.
Harold served as general manager for more than 40 years.
Fritz Hanson purchased land nearby from Pacific Bell in 1980, and two years later relocated the business to 250 Ogle St.
“It was a hard transition, just moving from one busy location to here, off the beaten path,” Diana Hirst says during a tour of the family business last week.
Hi-Time overcame the setback, one of many over the years.
Trend Waves
During the Great Recession, when companies halted Christmas parties and buyers shunned $100 bottles of wine, the store ran $10 wine promotions for months.
The store has watched alcohol trends come and go, and return again. In the late 1950s, 80% of its shelves were stocked with spirits.
Liquor sales fizzled in the late 1980s and early 1990s, but are making a comeback.
Spirits now account for about 40% of shelf space, the same as wine.
Craft cocktails, fine bourbons, trendy tequilas and sakes are the boisson du jour. Bitters and vodkas are also popular these days. Five to 10 years ago, Hi-Time carried fewer than a dozen varieties of each; now it has over 100 each.
“Spirits have really grown the last few years,” Diana Hirst says.
Among the newest crazes: low-calorie vodka martini Skinny Freezes, essentially adult freeze pops that are on monthslong back order.
Hi-Time sales, which are growing at a 5% to 7% annual clip, are projected to top $30 million this year.
Wine is the big seller and brings in patrons from around the country. A few years ago, Australian varietals were hot; now it’s South American wines and French rosés.
“Ten years ago, we sold hardly any,” Diana Hirst says. “Now we carry 30 different French rosés.”
A walk through the cellar, kept at a constant 58 degrees, takes a buyer through prolific regions of France, through Italy, Spain, South Africa and New Zealand, to name a few. The store has more than 4,400 selections. One upstairs room is dedicated to sparkling wines and another for beer. The company also has a loyal base of cigar buyers.
California is well-represented in the wine cellar, with its own section of about 2,500 versions categorized alphabetically.
If money is no object, perhaps a $1,000 magnum of Mouton Rothschild or a $4,500 Château Latour?
Kobe Bryant, for instance, is among Hi-Time’s regular clientele.
Diana Hirst says, “We live in an affluent area, so we’re lucky.”
