Lots of Tidbits today:
• The sad news: The shock of the month came with the announcement that Bruce Marsh, owner of Little Sparrow, the darling little restaurant in downtown Santa Ana, let chef Eric Samaniego go. Bruce is being diplomatic about it, but after the restaurant appeared on Bravo’s Best New Restaurants TV show, apparently some differences crept in between them.
Meantime, the sous chef has taken over, and things are steady. I’ve had some superb meals at Little Sparrow, and I find the laid-back hometown vibe quite refreshing. 300 N. Main, Santa Ana, (714) 265-7640.
• Tabu Grill in Laguna Beach lasted 11 years, but too much competition caused its downfall. I will miss the intimate island feel and those beautiful umbrellas that served as the ceiling and brought a lovely sense of romance.
• The former Pinot Provence restaurant space is now undergoing a makeover. It hasn’t yet been designated as a restaurant or all-purpose venue for the hotel, which is exploring partnerships for another dining facility.
The good news: The media got a look a couple of weeks ago at the room renovations now completed at the Westin hotel. Impressive. Every room got upgraded carpeting, attractive wall treatments, and substantial crown moldings, in addition to replacement furnishings and bathroom improvements as needed. The media group was enjoying the new surroundings so much that nobody was anxious to leave. Well done, Westin.
686 Anton Blvd., Costa Mesa, (714) 540-2500.
• Mendocino Farms was enthusiastically welcomed to Costa Mesa a year ago. Now Irvine has its own MF, which debuted across from the University of California-Irvine at University Town Center. I will vouch for superb sandwiches, such as the Vietnamese Pork Belly Banh Mi; French Gruyere and Ham; American Steak BLT and many, many more. Ditto for great salads and soups passionately created with what are billed as sustainable and farm-fresh products.
4175 Campus Drive, Irvine, (949) 783-2900.
• Habana at The Lab antimall in Costa Mesa has been satisfying our taste for Cuban food for several years. Now managing partner Peter Jaisel is in the construction phase of a second Habana at the Irvine Spectrum. Peter’s also managing partner of the edgy Mesa restaurant in The Camp, which incidentally has some of the most interesting food in Orange County, so he’s used to giving us attention-grabbing dining. Habana at The Lab: 2930 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, (714) 556-0176.
• Watson Drugs & Soda Fountain in Orange, dating to 1899, has been sold to a new owner who plans to extend the bar and mix in beer taps with the milk shake blenders and soda taps. Watson Drugs stopped being a pharmacy and drugstore about three years ago and became an old-fashioned, soda fountain-style dining space in totality. Rows of merchandise and drugstore items disappeared one by one, replaced by more booths and tables. Finally, the pharmacy corner closed.
We can chalk it all up to really good food—it has roasted its own turkeys and worked with fresh products for years—and throwback nostalgia (juke box in the middle of the room and mid-century kitsch on the walls for decor) that attracted movie producers, resulting in a couple of interesting films shot on the premises. Hope the food stays the same, as it has been my one of my favorite places for grilled cheese sandwiches, hamburgers, hot turkey plates, very decent salads and more for years. Discover nostalgic casual dining at this three-meal-a-day place.
116 E Chapman Ave., Orange, (714) 633-1050.
• Every restaurant habitué seems, from the chatter coming my way, to be anticipating the opening of Vaca near South Coast Plaza and the Performing Arts Center. It’s the new baby of Amar Santana, chef/partner with Ahmed Labbate (operations manager) of the popular Broadway by Amar Santana. The two were the chef and front-of-the-house team for Charlie Palmer before going out on their own with a super foodie investor to open Broadway. The new venue will concentrate on tapas, including paella, which is an uncommon commodity in Orange County. Amar and Ahmed recently spent time in Spain and surrounding territories doing research for their new venture. Can’t wait.
• When Scott McIntosh opened Reunion Kitchen + Drink in Anaheim Hills in late 2013, he gave North County just what it needed, a warm and inviting place with a community friendliness that rings true. Reunion’s menu is tucked with high-quality comfort food that’s been enthusiastically embraced by diners.
Scott had Asada in downtown Laguna before Reunion in Anaheim, and now he’s reusing the Asada name for his upcoming Laguna eatery, Asada Tacos + Beer, with a menu centering on top-notch tacos in a full-service atmosphere. He will also be opening a smaller version of Reunion, also in Laguna Beach. Construction is in progress, and both restaurants are scheduled to open this year. Meantime, Reunion in Anaheim Hills is worth discovering.
5775 E. Santa Ana Canyon Road, (714) 283-1062.
Munching for a Cause
Of tremendous importance this month is Caterina’s Club/Feeding the Kids in America 10th Anniversary Gala on Aug. 30, with profits going toward feeding more children who would otherwise go to bed regularly without a decent dinner. Bruno Serato, the son of Caterina and owner of the Anaheim White House, founded the nonprofit group a decade ago and has now served over 1 million meals to underprivileged kids.
When Mamma Caterina came from Italy to visit Bruno 11 years ago, she was dismayed to learn we have so many families living in motel rooms with never enough money to meet their needs. She visited the Boys and Girls Clubs of Anaheim and saw the disadvantaged children there in the afternoons while their parents worked. She told Bruno they had to find a way to feed them dinner each evening.
That’s how Caterina’s Club was born. Bruno expanded on his generosity and has in recent months secured funds to put several families into apartments by paying the security deposits, plus the first and last months’ rent. It was only that large upfront expense that had kept the families from moving into real housing and giving a whole different level of security to the children and adults.
So, here’s your chance and mine to help out. The evening gala will be at the Nixon Library. Cocktails at 5:30, presentation at 6, and dinner and entertainment at 6:30, followed by dancing. Celebrity emcee will be Ed Arnold. Tickets are $250 ($2,500 for a table of 10). Red-carpet attire suggested. Please think of the children and join in this special fundraising evening if you can. Phone: (714) 772-1381 for reservations.
Nixon Library: 18001 Yorba Linda Blvd., Yorba Linda.
Got Its Sea Legs
Huntington Beach has been getting more and more good restaurants, one of them being SeaLegs, which opened in 2012, an attractive wine bar that also happens to serve some interesting food. First glance delivers a sleek bar along one wall, above which a row of chandeliers glitter. The back bar sports good-looking wine lockers and storage space for its own serious collection of wines.
The Hamptons-inspired decor, with rich dark woods, parlays a chic level of conviviality. People watchers might opt for the long seating space, like a broad shelf with stools, on the front patio. I happen to enjoy the mix of people and the pleasant vibes that seem to percolate in the combo bar and dining room.
SeaLegs presents a menu of fresh, California cuisine with a shared-plates sensibility. Chef Alexander Dale strives to use sustainable ingredients and gears the menu to capturing the essence of each season by featuring new, authentic dishes year ’round, in addition to classic favorites. The menu is much bigger than one expects—always about 30 items—at a place that calls itself a wine bar. Among two choices are: mirin-glazed Brussels sprouts—the best I’ve had anywhere—Filet Mignon Tacos, Shrimp and Chorizo Flatbread, Prosciutto-wrapped Asparagus, Marinated Hangar Steak, Short Ribs braised with ancho chili and coffee reduction sauce, Fried Chicken Sliders, and some serious desserts.
The restaurant is owned by Alicia Whitney, whose food and beverage background prepared her well. The success of SeaLegs has been so solid that Alicia has signed a franchise deal to bring SeaLegs to a master-planned community in Belize, and Terminal 2 at LAX just celebrated the grand opening of a SeaLegs location.
There is also a new concept under construction in the same center as SeaLegs. It’s called SeaSalt Woodfire Grill and will feature steaks, pork chops, and a variety of high-end sea salts from around the world. It will have an upscale, yet approachable vibe and give a nod to the nearby iconic Huntington Beach fire pits. SeaLegs Wine Bar: 21022 Beach Blvd., Huntington Beach, (714) 536-5700.
