Two Restaurants That Have Debuted in OC in Recent Months
GEMMELL’S
34471 Golden Lantern, Dana Point Harbor
(949) 443-0877
Remember Byron Gemmell? He was the very young chef in the early ’80s who was written up in Gourmet magazine when his cooking put La Cuisine of Newport on the national culinary map. As a young man of Scottish ancestry from Guatemala, he trained under some of America’s best chefs. Now, he’s just opened Gemmell’s at the Dana Point Harbor. He and his brothers, one who has cooked by his side for years, and his father have completely renovated the space that was formerly Pierre’s. Comfortably nestled amidst the boutiques at the harbor, this cute bistro is a very welcomed site. It sports a beautiful inlaid stone floor, buttery yellow walls and lots of good California impressionistic art. Tables are draped in white linen with sea-blue napkins and bistro-style chairs cuddle up intimately. There’s a covered patio as an adjunct to the dining room.
Byron’s food has always drawn raves from diners and restaurant writers alike. From the major newspapers, to Caroline Bates in Gourmet, they,and I as well,cooed over his food. His new menu of French cuisine, with some eclectic California additions, reflects his continuing commitment to using only the freshest and finest ingredients. Byron makes an ethereally light and rich duck mousse and, honestly, his house-smoked salmon is unbelievably delicious.
Before French onion soup took a zillion turns toward trendy fusion tastes, it was simply the classic soup from France. Byron does not adulterate the cultural heritage of it, just simmers it up into another memory maker. His fine skill is evident in the signature thyme-infused rack of lamb and his crispy roasted duck. The salmon with Champagne-dill sauce is so good. Our friends were waxing poetic after rediscovering Byron’s food, noting that they now could put a definition on “great food” and that there was “actually a grace about Byron’s cooking.” I can’t state it better than that. Even the sauces that accompany the steaks are just plain good classics.
He is offering a couple of pasta dishes, some fresh fish, Maine lobster, and chicken dishes as well. At lunch, there are sandwiches and a few more salads than at dinner.
They are still awaiting the beer and wine license, although it is expected at any time. Therefore, when you call, ask if you should bring your own bottle of wine. Barring that, there’s a liquor store just a couple of doors down where you can pick up a white or red to go with the meal.
You can plan on seeing me here very often.
TANGERINE GRILL
1030 W. Katella Ave., Anaheim
(in the Anabella Hotel)
(714) 772-1186
Located just outside Disneyland, it’s certainly convenient. This new restaurant has wasted no time in getting itself some good reviews in the newspapers and even some enthusiastic customers who e-mailed or called me. Here’s the scoop. First of all, it has an independent owner, Harvey Slater, whose entire career has been in food service.
Beginning with the Malibu Sea Lion (now Duke’s) and on to the big time Paragon Restaurant Group and then the inimitable Santa Fe Bar and Grill in Berkeley, he ended up in 1997 starting his own Grandstand Catering and Gourmet To Go without outside capital. He plans to open divisions of the catering and more restaurants in other major cities, though Tangerine is his first restaurant try.
Slater has paid attention to detail. The elegant 1920s-style dining room boasts tall ceilings, mission-inspired arches, clay tile floors and is filled with citrus trees.
Hand-painted citrus wall murals and vintage fruit crate labels from bygone days are immediate talking points with guests. He wanted us to feel like we’re dining in a citrus grove while enjoying a menu which reflects how sophisticated California is with its simple desire for a healthy lifestyle and high environmental standards. Hospitality and gracious service ring true. The cuisine: local favorite dishes that are eclectic, fresh, healthy and simple.
This whole package makes it easy to settle in for a meal whether you are tired to the bones or have had a most relaxing day. Choose the place, backyard patio area resembling a sophisticated resort ambiance or the ultra charming indoor enclave. Then, specialty drinks and a very comprehensive wine list might be first-hand attractions at the table. After that, let your mood of the moment dictate what you’ll order.
Consider starting out with bleu cheese pie comprised of a slice of creamy cheese, some grapes and toasted baguette crisps. Chicken-miso rolls are interesting characters. A flavorful ground chicken mixture is wrapped in nori sheets and steamed, then chilled and served with wasabi dipping sauce and a cool cucumber salad. A different twist on a Japanese sushi roll.
Something clever transpires in the Petaluma duck crepes. The duck is first simmered in barbecue seasonings, then boned and rolled into thin pancakes and served with a feisty tomatillo salsa. Another version has the duck roasted crisp and sided with a tangy tangerine sauce. Santa Maria strip steak is a cowboy version on the bone, rubbed with plenty of garlic and parsley and grilled.
Sonoma free-range chicken is pan-roasted and dolloped with tomato concasse and goat cheese sauce. In a jaunty preparation, jumbo shrimp are saut & #233;ed with lime, garlic, chile, and orange liqueur and served with zucchini “spaghetti.”
The two desserts that pop off the page at you are the tangerine cheesecake and the frozen tangerine featuring a real frozen tangerine filled with tangerine sorbet and surrounded with cr & #269;me anglaise and berry farm sauce. These are my choices, but the fresh pear brown butter tart with homemade caramel sauce is pretty decadent.
Whenever you are in the area, take a peek at this place. n
