A little update on my column: After 17 years of weekly deadlines, I am going to be writing less, but featuring more content in my columns. I needed a respite from the endless deadlines and the paper was kind enough to schedule me for articles about every three weeks.
One of the great things about this is that other interesting features columns, such as Kudos, Giving and Events, will appear during my off weeks. I plan to have a lot of fun with much more commentary about everything in and about the restaurants and wines that are the tasty cornerstones of our lifestyles. Keep an eye out for my next column on April 21.
Restaurant Closing
With all the changes in the economy, we know that restaurant dining is down. Some restaurants still seem to be holding their own. One that has given up is Turner New Zealand near the Orange County Performing Artscenter in Costa Mesa. While owner Noel Turner isn’t giving out a definitive answer for his decision to close the restaurant, that corner has become home to three upscale restaurants in the past few years,perhaps too many for the present economy to support.
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Turner New Zealand: restaurant closed |
Just across the street from him are Mastro’s Steakhouse and Wilhelm’s Savannah (the former Chat Noir). Half a block away is Jerry’s Deli and Pinot Provence is less than two blocks away, not to mention a lot of other eateries within a stone’s throw.
All we know is that Turner decided not to renew his lease. He needn’t worry about having a decent income without the restaurant. His other business, also called Turner New Zealand, supplies antibiotic-free seafood, shellfish and meats,all from his New Zealand farms and aqua farms,to upscale restaurants in many states and beyond.
This is at least the third restaurant to reside in that space, originally designed by the Il Fornaio group, which quickly realized it was not a fit for their chainwide restaurant holdings. I guess we’ll just have to take a peek at the building when we drive down Anton Boulevard to see if some other eatery takes on the challenge.
Dreamy Stonehill
Twice recently we have dined at Stonehill Tavern and, as always, it’s a bit dreamlike. In fact, on one of these evenings we stayed at the St. Regis Resort, Monarch Beach, where the restaurant is located, just to make the whole experience more enchanting. If you’ve not experienced the luxury of one of these rooms and perhaps a needed spa treatment or two at the equally luxurious Spa Gaucin,an intoxicating experience on its own,then you need to give yourself a mini vacation at this resort.
Stonehill Tavern is the star that St. Regis got after the disappointment that the first fashionista restaurant in the resort turned out to be. Michael Mina,one of America’s most vaunted chefs with celebrity status restaurants in San Francisco and Las Vegas, plus three other states,is the megastar chef/owner behind the highly praised cuisine and style. Our permanent chef de cuisine is Adam Keough, a prot & #233;g & #233; of Mina’s, who assuredly maintains the integrity of the food.
There’s a lot of beauty packed into Stonehill Tavern. Beyond double glass doors is a large granite-topped bar sided by a couple of private booth areas on each side and a fantastic wine storage vault. The main dining room features an exterior wall of massive glass doors, allowing access to the well-groomed outdoor seating area. Some interior walls are lined with elegant banquettes, while the entire room oozes sophistication through fine furnishings and eloquent table settings.
At our most recent meal four weeks ago, Mina happened to be in town and we delved into several specialties on the newest menu that he and chef Keough have unveiled. You will find that some of the culinary creations come as three different preparations of the same ingredient on one plate. Expect to be ultra impressed with the dishes’ gorgeous presentations and their & #252;ber tastes.
A great beginning is the Kombu-cured snapper with sea beans and sudachi lime. Maine scallops with black mussels sit in a bit of broth with lighter-than-air gnocchi as another fine choice. The Berkshire pig is an entree that sits atop the ladder of lusciousness. Roasted until fork tender and unbelievably juicy, it’s even more astounding with the black truffle jus that surrounds the pork. Japanese kobe beef is as good as beef gets, so tender and concentrated in flavor. I’m hoping that they’ll be serving you the salt-baked potatoes with it, as they did for us.
Desserts are just as astounding as the rest of the meal and sommelier Pam Gregory is a whiz at suggesting wines. She’s picked some great ones for us. If you care to follow what we had with the courses above: Dr. Weins-Pr & #252;m Spatlese Riesling (Germany), Sauzet Puligny Montrachet (Burgundy), Bonaccorsi “Cargasacchi” Pinot Noir (Santa Rita Hills), Modus Operandi Cabernet (Napa Valley) and Fonseca 20 Year Tawny Port (Portugal). There are many worldly wines by the glass to accommodate your wine matching desires.
After a meal like this, it is quite a luxury to listen to a little music in the lobby lounge and then retire to your big room. Sink into the unbelievably comfortable seating for a good read, envision the restful night’s sleep you will have in the heavenly looking bed, bathe in the spa-worthy massive bath featuring one of those “everything” showers and a memorable spa tub. When you wake up in the morning, write a few notes, have some breakfast and peruse your e-mail from the desk/table that has views of the ocean.
Make a mental note now: These are rooms worthy of royalty, superb in every way.
St. Regis is very special and Stonehill Tavern adds to the aura of good living. For reservations at Stonehill Tavern or for booking rooms or spa treatments, call the resort directly: (949) 234-3200.
St. Regis Monarch Beach Resort & Spa: One Monarch Beach Resort, Dana Point.
Tequila Dinner
There are ample wine matching dinners offered all the time. Let’s go for a food and beverage evening with a twist: Haute Cuisine Dinner and Porfidio Tequila Cocktails. I’m stoked over this one because Sam & Harry’s in the Newport Beach Marriott Hotel & Spa,where the dinner will take place on April 16,is one of the great restaurants in OC. It’s quite famous in Washington, D.C., and now at our doorstep with a proven consistency in food and service, both of which rank up there with only a small percentage of our top-echelon restaurants.
The best part: For such high quality, the food is not outrageously priced: this four-course culinary adventure is only $75, plus tax and gratuity.
Better yet, you can make reservations any time between 5 p.m. and 9 p.m. No need to dine with a table full of strangers if you prefer to dine more intimately.
A couple of months ago, the owner of Sam & Harry’s, Larry Work, flew in from D.C., where the original Sam & Harry’s is a powerhouse dining establishment for the politicos and sophisticates of all genres. I had the opportunity to meet him and found that he kept using the words “quality”, “training” and “consistency” throughout a long conversation. You’ll find all of these things are well-coordinated at our fine looking Sam & Harry’s.
Call (949) 729-6900 for reservations to this chic dinner that will feature in two of its courses prime seafood and steak, for which the restaurants are renowned.
Sam & Harry’s: 900 Newport Center Drive (inside the Newport Beach Marriott Hotel), Newport Beach. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.
Interesting Mix
There’s a restaurant across the street from the entrance to the San Clemente pier called White Horses. It is cute and has a lot to offer in food and wine programs. First of all, the menu changes every couple of months, so the dining experience is always fresh. Second, the food’s an eclectic interesting mix of Mediterranean, French and forward-thinking California dishes. Third, part of the decor includes an art display that changes throughout the year. Consequently, the light and clean dining room has punches of both color and sophistication from the canvases on display.
The term White Horses is what the English call white caps on the ocean. You can relate to the restaurant’s name since you can see some frothy white caps on the nearby ocean and chef/owner Mark Norris is from England.
It’s a fine place to have small plates and share little tastes with table mates. On the new menu for April are appetizers such as poke, smoked squid fettuccine served with mussels meuniere and a mixed tapas plate. Fashionable entrees this time around: adobada muscovy duck, stuffed scallops, roast skate wing and veal porterhouse. Just to keep things ultra interesting, there’s even lamb roganjosh, a mild curry dish, a Moroccan tagine (stew) and a great grill idea. For the latter, you choose your meat and coatings, sauces and flavored butters to finish the dish. Note that entrees are complete meals with vegetable and starch sides.
What you will not want to pass up are desserts. Where else will you find black Thai rice pudding, chocolate s’mores, avocado and chile ice cream, green tea cr & #269;me br & #369;l & #233;e, fresh berry pavlova and key lime and blue cheese cheesecake. I told you it was an interesting place.
White Horses: 610 Avenida Victoria, San Clemente; call (949) 429-1800.
Fresh Dining
John Garcia is the new chef de cuisine at Restaurant 162′ in the Ritz-Carlton, Laguna Niguel. His emphasis is on traditional American cooking that was the background of his childhood. He uses fresh ingredients that are reflective of the area as much as possible. He looks happiest when he’s bringing recognizable food to a new level of creativity for us.
He started his culinary career as an apprentice at Hotel del Coronado in San Diego and took to cooking so well that he worked long hours, learning everything he could from the main dining room kitchen and the banquet kitchen. His work ethic and ability got him to a sous chef position at a famed restaurant in Chicago and, after a few long winters, back to San Diego and a top-notch resort in Arizona.
He brings to Restaurant 162′ a long list of accolades and a fine repertoire of American dishes, many centered on our abundant fresh seafood. The menu is all about fresh ingredients and seasonal products and it offers a variety of sharing plates so guests can experience more than just one dish.
In case you’re not yet familiar with this airy restaurant that looks out to the ocean, take note when you are there of the many intriguing elements all around. Love the soothing color scheme of cream and ice blue, all the customized dark wood accents and the room’s spectacular ceiling that is highlighted by three coffered metal and crystal drop sculptures. They’re made up of multiple strands of abstracted California poppies that are dramatically illuminated from below.
Happy times are upon me whenever I am in this hotel. Imagine me at a table in the lobby lounge for a cocktail before dinner, then sitting at a cushy spot in 162′ for a meal and finally, sitting in one of those luxe chairs fronting the fireplace in the grand hallway for an after-dinner drink and some extra relaxing conversation.
Restaurant 162′: One Ritz-Carlton Drive (inside the Ritz-Carlton), Dana Point; call (949) 240-2000. This restaurant is available for all meals throughout the day.
