South County is growing up,in the culinary sense.
Creative haute cuisine, American and otherwise, are doing just fine in the resort hotels with ocean views that are concentrated in the southern reaches of Orange County.
New, free-standing restaurants are popping up. And there are the others that have been around for a long time,just not frequented by those who live in the rest of the county.
As always, there’s joy for me in discovering a really affordable, friendly restaurant that’s without pretense. All the more so when the owners have a surprising passion for wine that makes the dining even more interesting.
Such is the case with Tannins Restaurant Wine Bar & Lounge in San Juan Capistrano, where neighborhood cafe meets just the right amount of sophistication.
It is not new, been there almost four years and opened as a wine/deli/liquor store. But then came the aha! moment when the principals realized that deli delights were fine, but a more encompassing, casual style menu in a restaurant setting and a place to sip good wines, with or without food, was what the area needed.
And, gauging from the ten minute to half hour wait you sometimes encounter in the evenings, the revamped concept was what the public wanted.
Most of the various spaces that make up the restaurant and wine bar have a totally relaxed look. There’s some outside patio seating.
The inside features lots of wood-topped tables in fairly close proximity to each other. Comfortable wooden bar stools in two places are inviting; one can cozy up to the actual wine bar or perch in front of the cooking area that’s toward the back of the main dining room, near the wine cellar. Just as you pass that cooking area, a large space reveals cases and cases of wines stacked high and higher.
These are wines,more than 700 labels,that the public can purchase at just a little over retail. Take the wine home or have it with your meal, in which case there’s no corkage fee. Corkage for wines brought in from outside is $20.
Where the space takes a more cushy turn is in the highly attractive and comfortable upstairs lounge that was added only a few months ago. This offers sink-in friendliness and the live music on given evenings is quite a nice addition too.
Menus are presented along with a fascinating wine list. It gets our attention before we even look at food possibilities. As we were studying it on our first visit, Tannin’s general manager and wine director, Kijou Morris, came by the table to ask if he could be of help.
We were soon engaged in a question and answer session in which he explained the philosophy of their wine selections and why they have become known for their wine flights.
This gets us back to that passion for wine that I mentioned. Here is a list of superb wines from California, Washington, Oregon, Australia, France, Germany, New Zealand, Italy and Portugal.
And, it’s not only these many labels of terribly interesting wines that is fascinating us, it’s the 45 wines by the glass offered downstairs, 25 wines by the glass in the upstairs Tannins Lounge and, most of all, the 10 flights of wines that are way beyond what one would expect in a casual restaurant like this.
A wine flight consists of three or four 3-ounce pours that share a common theme. They are served together,a great way to learn about more wines and a great experience in comparing one against the other. The flights vary in price from $15 to $26.50. A Zesty Whites Flight takes you through tastes from California, New Zealand, France and Germany.
The similarly broad flights of chardonnay, Italian reds, merlot, Australian, cabernet and red blends can keep you busy through many meals or several hours at the wine bar. Wines also can be purchased in 6-ounce pours, as well as by the bottle.
Meals here begin with a basket of good bread and a terrific olive tapenade to spread on it. I give them high marks for suggesting a couple of wines that would match each appetizer and entree on the dinner menu.
The food at dinner is Italian with both Northern and Southern specialties. In addition to those dishes, the lunch menu is quite full with above the ordinary sandwiches and salads made with the best quality ingredients.
The dinner menu begins with familiar items like bruschetta, fried calamari, sauteed shrimp (scampi) and an appealing antipasto platter of various Italian cold cuts and vegetables.
The chef takes just a few liberties that add a bit more panache. That would be by way of a fine crab cake and a cheese platter with fresh fruit and crusty bread.
The sauces here are fresh and brightly flavored. There are several styles of pasta,different shapes and many sporting additions of fresh seafood and meats in red or creamy white sauces.
I highly recommend penne with sausage and peppers, rigatoni with mushrooms and angel hair with fresh tomato/basil/garlic sauce.
Also notable is the creamy risotto with shellfish and the gnocchi with aurora sauce (a version of b & #233;chamel with tomato puree added). They also make lasagna, manicotti and a fine version of eggplant parmesan.
I almost forgot about the pizzas, which account for a separate part of their fame.
Before Tannins became a full-fledged restaurant, it already had a reputation as a place for great pizza. That continues with lots of choices that come on a thin-style crust and they work well as an entree any time of day or as an appetizer for sharing.
Meat entrees beyond the seafood choices consist of many veal and chicken dishes. Each evening the chef offers his own specials as well.
When we were there the last time, we began with a fine appetizer special: prawns wrapped in prosciutto sitting around seared asparagus spears. A trio of entrees for diversity included a rib eye steak with grilled garden vegetables and buttermilk mashed potatoes, sesame-crusted tuna with vegetables and a side of pasta (which I ordered) and vegetarian lasagna.
When thinking of sweets, the fudge tart on that night was blue ribbon quality for its rich creaminess and very dense chocolate flavor.
Tannins is an affordable place and a welcome addition to South County dining.
A Taste of Surf City
It’s time for the Sixth Annual Taste of Huntington Beach.
Tastes of signature dishes from more than 50 of the city’s favorite eateries and more than 30 nationally recognized wines and beers will be served.
On April 23, from 12 p.m. to 4 p.m., this big tasting party sponsored by the local restaurant association will be held at the Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach Resort & Spa. Funds raised will benefit the Children’s Wing of the Huntington Beach Central Library.
Tickets are $50 through April 16, which includes $5 beachside parking for those not wishing to valet at the Hyatt.
Otherwise, tickets are $60 at the door for the all inclusive price.
Presale tickets can be purchased through the Huntington Beach Central Library, phone (714) 842-4481 and the Visitors & Conference Bureau, 301 Main St., Suite 208, phone (714) 969-3492.
They are available as well at the Longboard Restaurant & Pub, 217 Main St., (714) 960-1896, and Duke’s Huntington Beach restaurant at the pier, (714) 374-6446.
The Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach is at 21500 Pacific Coast Highway.
More Tasting
Vying for time and attention on the same Sunday, April 23, is the Fifth Annual Taste for the Cure at the Palm Garden in Newport Beach.
This always is a premier event and this year will have at least 25 of California’s finest vintners pouring their select wines along with gourmet food stations serving samples of cuisine from a long list of Orange County’s famed chefs.
Proceeds from this event will help fund innovative diabetes research and a first-ever islet cell transplantation program at UCI Medical Center.
Villa Park resident Jerry Stefani founded Taste for the Cure to help fund research to cure Type 1 and 2 diabetes. His adult son, Brian, was diagnosed with Type 1 diabetes at age five and is currently being considered for the UCI transplant program.
The event will be held from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. on April 23.
Palm Garden is next to The Island Newport Beach hotel at 690 Newport Center Drive. Tickets are $75. Call (800) 287-3669 for more information.
For more information about the organization or Taste for the Cure, call Jerry Stefani (714) 366-5941or go to www.curediabetesfoundation.com.
AT A GLANCE – Tannins Restaurant, Wine Bar & Lounge
Address: 27211 Ortega Highway
San Juan Capistrano
Phone: (949) 218-3560
Hours: Lunch from 11 a.m.; dinner every evening
Cost: Lunch appetizers $4.95 to $8.50, entrees $7.50 to $10.95; dinner appetizers $4.95 to $13.95, entrees $9.95 to $23.95; wine flights $15 to $27.50
