Noir detective scribe Raymond Chandler once described “a blonde to make a bishop kick a hole in a stained glass window.”
Think of The Veggie Grill in Irvine as a vegan eatery to make a Sierra Clubber imagine a Big Mac.
And know that the trio backing the restaurant, across the street from UC Irvine, might like it that way.
The idea behind The Veggie Grill is to make totally vegan food palatable to people besides total vegans. Partners T.K. Pillan, Kevin Boylan and Ray White don’t even ask us omnivores to think vegetarian, but want folks to focus on the fine fare and health aspects.
Open for six months, the manager on duty during our visit said they’re looking for a second spot and preparing for expansion. College towns, Orange County and L.A. trend spots and almost anywhere with a Trader Joe’s are likely locales.
The “meat”,quote marks necessary,is mainly seitan or tempeh. Both are protein dishes: the first is wheat-based; the latter a crunchy soybeans, grains and rice blend.
Veggie Grill also has a veggie patty (beets, black beans, quinoa, oats, carrots, soy) and a proprietary veggie protein product called Chillin’ Chickin’. It tastes like, well you know.
My choice, the Philly Peppered Steak, fell apart too easily,and ideally would’ve been on the vegan equivalent of a hoagie roll. The good stuff includes the kids meal,chickin’ nuggets with a chocolate pudding.
The really good stuff is the signature Sweetheart Fries: sweet potatoes seasoned, cooked and served with chipotle sauce.
Rotate your beverages among the lemonade and varieties of iced tea. Desserts have zero dairy, cholesterol or refined sugar, but you’ll recognize the names, cheesecake, carrot cake, chocolate cake, and, more importantly, the taste. The Veggie Grill is in University Center and open daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
,Paul Hughes
