This is Part 2 of my dining adventures in New York. We arrived in Manhattan midday and after hanging a few clothes in our hotel room, we walked the seven blocks to Patrick’s sister’s apartment. We stayed in that afternoon and evening, munching on some rather exotic food her cook had prepared, and we had lots of talking and laughing to do, of course.
The next day, we had a generous lunch with friends in the new Esca, in the theater district. Sleek and swathed in light wood, sunny yellow and seafoam green, with plenty of light from walls of windows, this is the home of modern Italian seafood cooking. Chef David Pasternak is young and brimming with energy. In his menu, and all others that followed during our 10 days, we were amazed that the prices are no more expensive than they are here. David offers a six-course prix fixe menu for $65 ($90 with wines) and only $25 more to up it to an 11-course tasting menu. The a la carte choices are extensive and compelling. He’s not afraid to use tiny calamari and cherry tomatoes with thin linguine. Wild duck is presented with roasted squash and braised greens. He verges on exotic with the roasted cod and wild mushroom plate. Loved the big plate of frito misto piled with hefty pieces of skate, calamari, rock shrimp, whiting, clams and oysters. Whole sea bass cooked in a salt crust is superb fare. The spaghetti lover will relish his pasta covered with monkfish stewed with tomato, pine nuts and saffron essence. Creamy risotto dotted with baby Maine shrimp and pasta with lump crabmeat is an extravagance of taste. I highly recommend Esca.
Les Pyrenees is one of the old classic dining spots of NY. It is small and intimate, with French paintings on the walls, a brick fireplace and subdued clientele. Owner Jean-Claude Pujol is a hands-on restaurateur, obviously acquainted with many of his customers. With a $30 three-course prix fixe menu served in very generous portions, it’s one of the bargains of the city. We relished pork rillettes (a finely ground, spiced pork) on croutons, a big plate of seafood carpaccio (scallops and two kinds of fish thinly sliced) and a leek pie for appetizers. Rene gets the prize for serving the best sweetbreads I have ever eaten. The lamb osso buco is rich in its wine and herb sauce. The roasted duck, which covered the plate, was not only fork-tender, but had a marvelous lemon-orange sauce to highlight it. From coq au vin to Dover sole, steak au poivre to lobster ravioli, this is a must on my list from now on. The wine list is studded with affordable boutique wines to match the food.
Toney Edwards is the kind of owner we dream of finding in every restaurant. At Le Madeleine, in the theater district, this former Texan always is overseeing tables, convivial and totally dedicated to the happiness of his customers. With brick walls, smallish tables, a beautiful zinc bar that’s part of the dining room and an intimate atrium patio, this is love-at-first-sight d & #233;cor. It has everything from great press from the top critics to a Wine Spectator Award for the substantial wine list. He’s got one of the best-trained chefs in New York, Bruce Beaty, in the kitchen.
While we can have interesting sandwiches and glamorous salads here, the all-day menu also includes a bevy of compelling dishes. Start with duck-rabbit-pork combination rillettes (this beloved French meat spread is one of the trendiest dishes now) or some grilled lamb sausage with potato-lentil salad, or perhaps some Basque-style mussels with tidbits of sausage, peppers and onions in the steaming broth. How can one not love juicy marinated pork loin with creamy polenta, seared diver scallops with butternut squash sauce or braised short ribs in red wine? We liked Le Madeleine,by the way, do not confuse this with the chain of La Madeleine restaurants, they are not related,so much that we tried for another meal, but sadly they were booked solid. I’ll call from California to make my reservation next time.
Every major city has a decent pub somewhere, but where are they when you need them? The Pig ‘n’ Whistle is not even hidden away on some obscure side street. It’s smack-dab in the center of midtown, on Third Avenue. It is replete with dark wood and old brick walls, a long bar inhabited by locals catching up on business and social matters, generous Victorian and Celtic touches and a slew of tables rather regally napped in crisp white linens all day long. It dates back to 1969. The food is very good. On one visit, we had smoked salmon and a crock of chili and grilled lamb with mustard sauce. That encouraged another visit when we were no less impressed with the fresh whole pieces of cod that accompanied the basket of fries for fish ‘n’ chips, the steak and kidney pie, and bangers and mash (sausages and mashed potatoes) and a very homey apple crumb pie. With a full array of sandwiches, salads and classic Irish entr & #233;es, I find contentment here.
For a cute little restaurant with only a few tables, but good food, try the Caf & #233; du Pont (dinner only). The food is primarily classic French, with nice presentations. Everything from escargot to typical dishes such as Dijon-roasted chicken, roast duck with lingonberries, and very nice preparations of fresh fish. It gives the impression that you are tucked away in a little corner of Europe. Nice wine list as well.
