Getting Up Close and Personal With OC’s Chefs
Talk about putting people on the spot. We writers have regular deadlines for articles and chefs have deadlines one or two times a day in prepping for the next meal. But in a turn of the tables, so to speak, OC’s chefs last week were faxed a sheet with five questions on it and told they have only 36 hours to get it back to me. Having just returned from a long trip to France and almost strangling myself on the ultra-short deadline I had for getting this Fifi’s Best onto my editor’s desk, I could only hope for a quick turnaround by the guys who have earned their toques. I put it to them this way: “Here are five questions I would like to have answered for my column. You have 36 hours. The ball’s in your court. I made the rules, and I’m not changing them.” They rose to the occasion. So, why was I faxing chefs? Well, it seemed to me you might be tiring of my side of the story, and who better to give you some insight into many of our finest restaurants than the chefs themselves. I had decided on this format before I left town to wine and dine myself silly in France, but that’s as far as I’d gotten. Therefore, I am standing as I applaud these chefs for meeting deadlines of all sorts.
The five all-important questions I asked were as follows:
1. What was the most difficult thing in your life on the way to getting the position you have today?
2. What was the most unusual request by a customer, or the strangest meal that you’ve ever had to cook?
3. What do you enjoy most about being a chef?
4. What items do you personally love on your own menu?
5. What are three local restaurants you enjoy and why?
I thought that these questions would give all of us a different perspective since we’ll know what other restaurants the chefs themselves prefer and what they like most about their own menus. I’ll certainly be ordering the dishes they suggest. And, what better way to get a feeling for a restaurant than to know a little more about the chef? I’ve covered a little of their professional background for you as well. I hope that you enjoy comparing all their comments.
Marcello Apollonio
Il Fornaio
18051 Von Karman, Irvine
(949) 261-1444
Marcello had a nurturing environment in the kitchen. As a youngster in Italy, his mother, father and grandmother were all great cooks. Twin brothers, two years older, went to restaurant training school and when they came home, he’d make them teach him what they’d learned. He says he has beautiful memories of times around the family dinner table. He loves the excitement of working with fine ingredients and creating dishes that make people feel happy and satisfied. The research never ends as he finds inspiration in seasonal ingredients and unusual food products that come to his attention. He has told me that one of his hobbies is reading about food and researching from books, which he does every night for relaxation. He relishes creating dishes that will bring back memories to anyone who has visited Italy. In the classy but comfortable Italian villa surroundings of the restaurant, Marcello is the star in the kitchen. Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: Staying away from my family on holidays and at night. Most unusual request: One particular time, after making a dish of saut & #233;ed calamari twice, and having it returned to the kitchen twice, I went to the table and managed to bring the customer with me into the kitchen. We cooked her dish together and it ended up being a fun evening for her and the kitchen staff. Most enjoyable part of being a chef: Sharing my culture through my dishes, pleasing my customers, creating special menus for them and, most of all, the energy in the restaurant life. Six recommended dishes from your menu:
—Antipasto della Casa is perfect for me. This mixed appetizer plate of bruschetta, caponatina, caprese, bresaola, arugula salad, marinated baby artichokes and fried shrimp is a great array of tastes.
—Il Fornaio Salad. One of my favorite items. It consists of mixed greens, shaved Parmesan cheese, garlic croutons and house vinaigrette. I like to eat simple food like this.
—Insalata di Spinaci is a nice salad of baby spinach, red onion, aged ricotta cheese, tomatoes, toasted walnuts, mushrooms, applewood-smoked bacon and warm vinaigrette.
—Penne All’Arrabbiata is also another dish I eat often. We toss tube-shaped pasta with a lightly spiced garlic/tomato sauce.
—Cappellacci di Zucca: fresh pasta is filled with roasted butternut squash and walnuts. The dish is finished with tomato sauce, a little brown butter, sage and Parmesan.
—Turtei con Aragosta happens to be another favorite. Our ravioli are filled with fresh Maine lobster and shrimp and the sauce is made from tomato and lobster cream.
I know I’ve listed six favorite items, but I also really like our chicken, duck, rabbit and veal rack from the rotisserie and I love the monthly regional menus.
Three favorite local restaurants:
With so many good restaurants in Orange County and so little time to go out, I like to visit a new one every time I go out.
Franco Barone
Antonello
1611 Sunflower Ave., Santa Ana
(714) 751-7153
Franco manages to blend the charm and tradition of the Old World with contemporary Italian concepts. Originally from Sicily, he spent hours in his uncle’s restaurant while growing up. He started cooking there and surprised his uncle with his natural talents. When he arrived in the US in 1982, he immediately was hired at the famous La Scala in LA, although he had no formal training at all. Only a few years later, he was at Antonello. He is one of our finest chefs and is always researching the world of food to keep abreast of all that’s new so that his rapport with customers is complete. This is the perfect marriage of a very beautiful restaurant and a dedicated chef. Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: Two things stick out in my mind. Having to learn a new language and the difference in customs. Until I became comfortable with English, I felt I could not express myself fully, and that was hard for me. There are big differences in culture and I had to get used to the American way of doing things. Some of the culture shock was so great to me that I sometimes cried myself to sleep when I first came here.
Most unusual request: A customer once ordered Gnocchi Pescatora (potato dumplings with assorted fish). I sent the server back a few times to make sure the order was correct. Again it was culture differences: in Italy this combination would never be thought of. It would be like ordering mashed potatoes with syrup on them here.
Most enjoyable part of being a chef: The actual accomplishment of receiving the title of executive chef. There is a lot of meaning behind it and I do not take it lightly. We must excel in the culinary arts, and keep up with the ever-changing ways of the world. I am so proud to be the executive chef of one of Orange County’s finest Italian restaurants.
Six recommended dishes from your menu:
—Carpaccio Originale. I drizzle extra-virgin olive oil over thin slices of cured beef tenderloin. A little fresh lemon, capers and shaved Parmesan cheese makes it perfect.
–Ravioletti de Mama Pina. They are homemade miniature ravioli stuffed with braised veal in a tasty Bolognese sauce.
—Linguine Primavera. Linguine pasta with fresh garden vegetables sauteed in extra-virgin olive oil, with basil and shallots. I love the flavors.
—Saltimbocca alla Romana is a nostalgic veal scallopine I prepare. It’s topped with prosciutto and sage and has a little white wine demi-glace sauce.
—Bistecca alla Fiorentina is the famous grilled rib-eye steak with fresh herbs, garlic and lemon.
—Costatine del Nonno. These are old-fashioned grandfather-style short beef ribs sauced with a sweet honey and red wine reduction.
—Golden Truffle. What can I say? They just have great food!!
—Pavilions at the Four Seasons Hotel is a great place to go and relax and have fine food.
—Black Angus. I know that will be a shock to hear, but I love it! Their Porterhouse with sauteed onions and mushrooms .ahh, yummy!
Scott Brandon
Oysters
2515 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar
(949) 675-7411
Scott began his restaurant career as a dishwasher when he was 15 years old. He worked his way up through the ranks in kitchens around South Orange County, then worked in LA for about five years. A fascination with the South got him to Baton Rouge, La., for two years. He stayed 10 years in San Francisco after that, before deciding that OC was a pretty nice place to settle down. He’s been at Oysters for the past five years using the culinary tricks and recipes he gathered mostly in the South and San Francisco. Still, after more than 20 years in kitchens, Scott says he still feels like he’s just beginning to scratch the surface of what is yet to come. Owner Cary Redfearn is happy with what is coming from the stoves right now; I do know that. The restaurant is casually elegant and if the old adage about location is paramount, then Oysters is sitting pretty.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: Having the patience to wait for the right situation to come along. But, by being patient, working hard and concentrating on doing my best, I’ve allowed myself to fall into my current position and the hard work has paid off.
Most unusual request: A guest ordered a steak well done, crispy and black. He said he would send it back if it was not cooked enough. So, I destroyed a piece of quality beef. I sent it out to him dry, black and nasty. I mean, I murdered the poor thing. A few minutes later, the server came back and told me that the guest said “it was excellent!” and he would tell all his friends about Oysters. I said to myself, “Great! Now I’ll be famous for destroying innocent beef!”
Most enjoyable part of being a chef: The freedom to create, the chance to serve food that is familiar to people but prepared and displayed in a way that they probably haven’t seen or had before. Also, when a guest tells me that it is the best meal they’ve ever had.
—Tobiko Oysters: Freshly shucked oysters topped with wasabi infused tobiko (flying fish) caviar, daikon sprouts and ponzu sauce.
—Caramelized Wild Mushroom Bruschetta over a salad of m & #226;che and frisee with soy-lime vinaigrette.
—Pan-seared Diver Scallops with potato tian and tomato-ginger chutney, chile- and orange-infused oils and pea shoots.
—Pepper-Crusted Ahi Sashimi. I use No. 1 grade tuna, seared with five different peppercorns. Then I serve it sliced over sesame and miso-dressed snow pea sprouts with a little sweet soy glaze.
—King Salmon: Misoyaki sake and miso make the marinade. The fish is seared and roasted, served over purple Japanese sticky rice with baby vegetable flowerets on the side.
—Flat Iron-seared Filet Mignon. It gets a ginger and Japanese red pepper marinade and is served with wasabi panko fries, crispy asparagus spears and a citrus-soy demi-glace.
Three favorite local restaurants:
—Gen Kai in Corona del Mar for my sushi fix, especially when my good friend Akira is on.
—Pinot Provence for a romantic “date night.” It’s comfortable and they serve quality food.
—Ruby’s, because it’s my daughter Nina’s favorite place.
Gino Buonanoche
Vessia
3966 Barranca Parkway, Irvine
(949) 654-1155
Gino trained on cruise ships in the Mediterranean, as many young Italian cooks do. He arrived in the U.S. in 1980. I first knew him when he was a sous chef at Antonello Ristorante in South Coast Village. My foodie friends and I followed him to Fullerton when he opened his own restaurant, Il Ghiotto. Gino joined Franco Vessia at this restaurant when it opened in 1998. Gino and I have sat in a booth in the restaurant a few times and discussed everything from the kind of flour he uses to make the fresh pasta to the special tomatoes he uses in the sauces. The latter, by the way, are among the best Italian sauces in the county. He oversees everything from the making of the fresh breads and pastries every day to the veal that is roasted slowly, then hand-pulled to stuff in a couple of his specialty dishes. Quality is absolutely paramount to him. Franco has given his food a warm and comfortable home and we love sitting in one of the booths and savoring this totally authentic Italian cuisine.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: Establishing my own identity in style of cooking while working with some of the greatest chefs.
Most unusual request: Use warm tomato sauce on a mixed green salad instead of dressing.
Most enjoyable about being a chef: The ability to educate customers about my native regional cuisine, that of Puglia, Italy. Also, working in an open kitchen is satisfying when guests stop by at the counter and compliment us and rave about the food that they enjoyed.
Six recommended dishes from your menu:
—Trittico Adriatico. This is our thin spaghetti with clams, mussels, shrimp and spicy tomato sauce.
—Rotolo di Spinaci. One of our specialties consisting of ricotta cheese and spinach rolled inside a fresh sheet of pasta.
—Lasagna Parmigiana. A delicate version layered with eggplant
—Polpette di Carne are mamma Maria’s Italian style meatballs. Loaded with flavor.
—Orecchiette alla Barese. I love this ear-shaped pasta. We toss them with broccoli rabe and garlic.
—Braciole alla Barese is flank steak rolled around pecorino cheese, pancetta, garlic and parsley and served in a tomato sauce. We slice it and serve it with polenta.
—Bistango for its warm hospitality, great food, and entertainment.
—Roy’s because I like their exciting Pacific Rim cuisine and their wine list.
—P.F. Chang’s China Bistro for its consistent fun and great food.
Leonard Delgado
The Clubhouse
1333 Bristol, Costa Mesa
(714) 708-2582
Leonard is a very young chef for the position he holds. He started his career as a pastry chef and when I talk with him of food, there’s still a love of that discipline that comes through. But, along the way, he turned his sights on the rest of the food industry. He has worked for major hotels and multi-unit restaurants. Most recently, he worked for the Department of Defense and The Chart House. When The Clubhouse opened, he was offered the executive chef position and is thriving in the atmosphere. Why not? The building is gorgeous and he gets to create a menu that is casually elegant to entice us to the table.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: Maintaining balance in your life. The demanding nature of our business and the lifestyle that we choose creates what is sometimes the professional chef’s greatest challenge; that is keeping the passion for what we do without becoming consumed by it.
Most unusual request: Filet Mignon, charred rare, pureed in a blender then served with a straw.
Most enjoyable part of being a chef: The ability to affect people on a very personal level through your food and the environment that you create.
n Angel Hair Pasta. Saut & #233;ed plum tomatoes, garlic, white wine and fresh basil and it can be topped with saut & #233;ed shrimp. It’s the simple dish everybody loves.
n Meatloaf Sundae. It’s architectural with layers of our chunky meatloaf and mashed potatoes stacked up and highlighted with a barbecue au jus.
–Our Steaks. A good steak with mashed potatoes, fries or even rice pilaf. How can you go wrong?
—Any of our specials. This is where I get to use the best of whatever produce, meat or seafood came in and make an added dining adventure from it.
—Orange-Basil Salmon. Saut & #233;ed Atlantic salmon with an orange glaze and fresh basil.
—Mocha Cr & #269;me Brulee. The ultimate creamy dessert with the flavor of chocolate and coffee.
Three favorite local restaurants:
How I eat is really driven by the moment and my family. We like to find little out-of-the-way places for breakfast, loud and lively places for lunch, and comfortable places for dinner. If I had to choose, though:
—Roy’s for very interesting food and surroundings.
—Pinot Provence because of the good French food and the stylish d & #233;cor.
—PF Chang’s suits us for its energy, its ambiance and the food is always pleasing.
Chris Garnier
Roy’s of Newport Beach
453 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach
(949) 640-7697
Chris was born and raised in Honolulu. He’s only 28. His ethnicity is French, Italian and Chinese, which makes him a pretty good combo for this profession. He started at Roy’s in 1991 as a busboy but immediately wanted to be in the kitchen and landed a job “on the line” when a cook called in sick. He’d discovered his calling. Owner Roy Yamaguchi soon started sending him out to new restaurants to help train “new guys.” The bottom line is that Chris believes passionately in the purity of flavors and food,if it’s in there, you’ve got to be able to taste it. He likes the action of working in the kitchen. Chris has played the guitar (Roy also likes music) for 15 years. He draws the analogy that he is a rock star at a concert and his cooks are the band, guests are his fans. It must be so, because I spend a lot of time there. The friendly, understated beauty of the restaurant has been well accepted and Chris’ food is packing in the crowds.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: Since Roy Yamaguchi has been and will continue to be my primary mentor, proving myself to Roy has been a major goal for me. Since the time when I started with Roy’s as a busboy, the most important challenges have been developing my culinary skills, leadership ability and also a team work ethic in the kitchen to the level of Roy Yamaguchi’s expectations.
Most enjoyable part of being a chef: I believe it is very important to learn from the team members who support me in the kitchen because you are only as good as the people you work with. I may have more years of experience, but my staff continues to bring some fresh and wonderful ideas on a regular basis. I am glad to encourage their creativity, and also have the restaurant benefit from it.
Six recommended dishes from your menu:
—Szechwan Calamari. Crispy panko crumbs coat the calamari, which is served with roasted peanuts, scallions and cilantro
—Nori Crisped Sushi Rolls are rather like traditional sushi, except that we wrap seaweed on the outside and crisp it quickly before the dish goes to the table.
—Chinese-Style Steamed Fish is a classic recipe for tender steaming of the best varieties of fish and keeping the sauces light.
—Hibachi Salmon. This delicate fish is grilled over hot coals and served with a citrus-based ponzu sauce.
—Blackened Ahi is seared in a white-hot pan and surrounded by Asian style vegetables. The sauce made with a mixture of soy, mustard and butter enhances the blackened tuna, which is rare inside.
—Chilean Sea Bass (prepared any way). It may be grilled, poached or roasted. It will be served with my sauce du jour.
—Restaurant Abe in Balboa because I enjoy Asian ethnic foods, so I often go to this creative sushi haven.
I also like the Vietnamese restaurants on Bolsa Avenue and Korean caf & #233;s in Garden Grove. To me, this is “comfort food.”
Alan Greeley
Golden Tufffle
1767 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa
(949) 645-9858
I admit up front that Alan is my idol. I’ve never met a chef anywhere in the world, no matter how famous, who is more creative and cooks with more passion, who knows the wines of the world and shares that knowledge with diners, or who adores his customers more. Alan is our culinary genius.
The Golden Truffle restaurant was a natural as Alan has been catering in Southern California for 20 years. The restaurant, and Alan himself, have so many awards that hanging all of them could put stress on a wall. He’s given wine lectures in Bordeaux, cooking classes in the Caribbean and catered events at the Cannes Film Festival. He has also was consulting chef to an exclusive resort in Fiji, International F1 Grand Prix Tours, Dan Gurney’s All-American Racers and Cycle World Magazine. He was the featured chef at the Boston Meridien Hotel during the week of the World Cup and he’s cooked for a passel of celebrities and corporate presidents. Anyone who can top that should step forward.
Would it surprise you if I said his personal hobbies are motorcycling, F1, sailing and reading? I just wonder where he finds time to pursue any of it.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: Believing in yourself at all costs and lead, don’t follow. And never get weak!
Most unusual request: This one is really hard. I’ve had some good ones. A 12-course dinner for two transvestites where everything had to be pink including the china, peppercorns, flowers, waiter’s attire, etc. And a serious “Robin Hood” party for 500 people during the ’80s where everyone thought they were Errol Flynn,including myself! Another was a Bel Air bash for a Saudi prince during the gas crisis here, when we all had to wait in lines for gas. They all were in native garb, and hence, afraid to show their faces (veils) at the gas station, so they gave my staff people hundreds of dollars in cash to fill up their Ferraris, Lamborghinis and Mercedes limousines. Needless to say, I had no staff that evening! Somehow, nobody noticed or cared! Bel Air again, where two pedigreed dogs ate the wedding cake! That’s just a few of my favorites. You choose!
Most enjoyable part of being a chef: The adventure!
Six recommended dishes from your menu: I hate menus and get bored easily, so the answer is none! In my opinion, it’s best to order the prix fixe or specials of the day or week.
Three favorite local restaurants:
—The Crab Cooker: Simple, fresh and honest.
—Spaghetti Bender: For “to go” dinners. Damn good when you want spaghetti, and they are extremely consistent!
—Troquet: From saucier to patisserie, they can all cook! Pure, slightly refined, clean and quality driven! Hell of a combo.
Paul Gstrein
Bayside
900 Bayside Drive, Newport Beach
(949) 721-1222
Paul was born in Austria. He graduated from Austria’s most prestigious culinary academy, in Innsbruck. He came here in 1985 and worked only briefly in LA before opening Bistango. When this sister restaurant opened last year, he decided to spend all his time here,he had overseen the construction of the kitchen and made the menu. Over the years, OC has been enthralled with his creative dishes at Bistango and here he carries on with the same ardent regard for ingredients that can be presented in intriguing ways. I love the passion that goes into every plate of food and makes dining here such a special adventure. With ocean breezes lap ping at the door, this is a consummate OC dining experience.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: I had to give up the opportunity to take over my family’s hotel business in Austria to move to California and pursue my career as a chef.
Most unusual request: Being asked to leave a piece of steak to age in the cooler for three additional weeks until it began to smell. This was for a customer in Hamburg, Germany, many years ago. Talk about aged beef!
Most enjoyable part of being a chef: I like the freedom to be an artist. No set rules on how things have to be. I can be creative and not have to do the exact same thing every day. I love food and wine.
Six recommended dishes from your menu: Since my menu changes with the seasons, I’d like to mention some ingredients that in this fall season appear in dishes on my menu. Pomegranate for vinaigrette sauces for a whole different layer of refined taste. Fresh chanterelle and porcini mushrooms whose flavors are so deep and unique. Pumpkins of any kind because they are so versatile. The new crop of apples and pears that are so sweet and crisp. ruby grapefruits and blood oranges for variation and game meats that remind us of the cooler seasons. The following dishes are some in which you will find these ingredients.
—Loin of Venison: It’s done with Granny Smith apples, pomegranate sauce and spaetzle on the side.
—Stroganoff of Pork Tenderloin: The perfect dish for using chanterelle mushrooms.
—Pumpkin Gnocchi that are soft little pillows in a brown butter and sage sauce.
—Crab Fritters: Crispy rounds that are served with avocado and ruby grapefruit sections.
—Amelia’s Famous Apple Fritters. She’s our extremely talented pastry chef and these are the ultimate dessert.
—Pinot Provence because I thoroughly enjoy the French food.
—Taiko in Irvine for sushi; a magnet for both Oriental and Caucasian customers seeking the best.
—Baja Fresh Grill for good fast food with my son, Nick.
Brian Hirsty
Bluewater Grill
1621 W. Sunflower Ave., Santa Ana
(714) 546-3474
and
630 Lido Park Drive, Newport Beach
(949) 675-3474
Brian oversees the kitchens of both locations for these seafood houses where quality meets value pricing. After honing his culinary skills in a strict classical environment, Brian moved into the executive sous chef positions at two highly regarded Southern California restaurants. Over the years, he has developed a repertoire of signature seafood dishes. He also has a flair for unique sauces in which he embraces the ingredients of many cultures in shaping his flavors. He even loves to make desserts. Sauces are always an accompaniment to the seafood as he wants the pure, fresh flavor of it to be unencumbered. This balance of interest and restraint is what customers have come to appreciate. The restaurants are casual and comfortable and have their own flavor of Cape Cod.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: Training under classic European hotel chefs with their hierarchy based on seniority and not talent and hard work. It often breaks the spirit of young chefs, but if you hang in, it teaches you discipline, high standards and a fundamental respect for the culinary field.
Most unusual request: To make a meal for a corporation, with 125 seated at one table! The menu consisted of corn chowder, salad with candied walnuts and mesquite-grilled spiny lobster. The table was covered with 100 pounds of pistachios and 30 pieces of antique crocodile luggage filled with multi-colored cabbages and kale. It was inside a huge warehouse for all their worldwide clients. They knew how to show customers a good time! Most enjoyable part of being a chef: No other business in the world allows you to look calm, cool and collected when you have 50 things that are all in motion at the same time and at the end the day we always pull it off. We imagine the worst that could take place on any day and hope for the best. And the best usually happens.
—Walleye Pike simply saut & #233;ed and served with lemon-caper butter.
—Ipswich Fried Clams (with bellies!). I dust them in lightly seasoned flour and serve them with tartar sauce.
—Fried Smelt. They come from the Great Lakes and I respect their freshwater taste, so they’re tossed with just a little lemon juice and oregano.
—Harpooned Catalina Swordfish. Making up only 1% of the market, we broil it and serve with a kiwi-jalape & #324;o sauce on the side.
—Local Spiny Lobsters. Grilled with garlic and butter.
—Oysters and clams grown for us by Glenn Schreiver of Hammersley Inlet.
Three favorite local restaurants:
—Antonello, because nobody is as hospitable as Antonio Cagnolo.
—Ho Sum Bistro, because Ed has the best Chinese chicken salad in the county and he works his tail off.
—El Ranchito, because of the great traditional Mexican food and my kids love to go there!
Carlito Jocson
Yard House
1875 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa
(949) 642-0090
and
401 Shoreline Drive, Long Beach
(562) 628-0455
Carlito was a UCLA biochemistry student, but he soon discovered that his calling in life was to cook with plants rather than study them. In the past 14 years he has sliced, diced, saut & #233;ed and seared his way across Southern California, working at such respected establishments as Chez Panache in Fullerton, Prego Ristorante in Irvine, Antonello Ristorante in Santa Ana and Zov’s Bistro in Tustin. In 1985 he was named Best New Chef of Orange County and continues to be ranked among the Top 2000 Chefs in America. Recently he was named one of the Great Chefs of Orange County for the eighth time, which is remarkable for a talent with no formal training or education in the culinary arts. In November 1998, Carlito was hired as the executive chef for Long Beach-based Yard House Restaurants LLC, owners of The Yard House and Tequila Jack’s. His American fusion cuisine has influences from both Asia and Europe and complements fully the upscale style of the restaurants. I have followed Carlito’s career since his very first cooking job and am still in awe of his raw talent.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: To understand what being in control meant: having a plan, letting go, stepping out on faith while being committed to the process.
Most unusual request: A meal using pig’s ears. Enough said. I also wondered a little when a customer once ordered macaroni and cheese when I was at Antonello. What cheese? What kind of pasta did we have that the customer would consider macaroni? I think it finally turned out all right.
Most enjoyable about being a chef: Seeing the reactions of guests who have enjoyed what they consider a wonderful meal.
Six recommended dishes from your menu:
—Poke Stack. Fresh tuna tossed with chile paste, soy and stacked with won ton chips.
—Lettuce Wraps. Ground chicken, pinenuts and chives with plum sauce in lettuce cups.
—Grilled Romaine Salad. Hearts of Romaine with gorgonzola Champagne vinaigrette.
—Shrimp Bruschetta. Grilled shrimp and red and yellow teardrop tomatoes on ciabatta bread.
—Pan Roasted Sea Bass. Chilean sea bass with braised baby bok choy.
—Cowboy Steak. 22-oz. Angus rib-eye with onion rings, sweet corn and garlic mashed potatoes.
—Thainakorn in Buena Park serves great country Thai cuisine. Try the papaya salad with crab.
—Restaurant Abe in Balboa is a good place to let the chef just cook for you. Even foie gras is available.
—Nick’s Pizza in Costa Mesa has classic pescatore and absolutely great pizza. And, who doesn’t love Nick?
Chris Jures
Partners Bistro
448 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach
( 949) 497-4441
After a brief attempt at higher education, Chris found himself in the United Nations Delegates’ Dining Room. It was the realm of classic French cuisine from the traditional Escoffier school of thought. Twenty years later, he tells me he is still “evolving.” He respects the fact that he’s been able to work with some excellent chefs at places like Le Cirque and the 21 Club and he learned a lot from the late, great Patrick Clark of Odeon and Metro and Tavern on the Green. It fired his passion to do wonderful things with the superb products we now have available in California and says the goal at the restaurant is to balance flavors. Partners Bistro has been completely redone by owner Richard Sadleir and is prettier than ever. It’s a good place for Chris to show off his food.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: The profession takes tremendous dedication, and there’s always some sacrifice. I do regret all the missed holidays, childrens’ ball games, plays and birthdays. We have to remind ourselves that even chefs need to tuck in their children and kiss them goodnight!
Most unusual request: We at the restaurant were frequented by a “lady escort” and her gentlemen “friends.” This woman would turn the meal into an hours-long dining experience by constantly sending her food back. Too rare, too well done, too much sauce, not enough sauce. She would keep the restaurant open after closing time because she was never finished with her meal. We finally figured out that she was deliberately extending her time with her “date” and had to ask her to stop coming in.
Most enjoyable part of being a chef: The motivation and inspiration that come from the excitement you create in people’s lives when they appreciate and admire your craft. Without creativity, I don’t think chefs would continue in their careers. How many people can say they wake up in the middle of the night excited about the Porcini stew they just dreamed of pairing with their herb-crusted rack of veal?
—Rack of Lamb. The hazelnut/honey crust is very complementary to the meat.
—Rosemary-skewered Sea Scallops. These pour out a perfumed aroma that truly stimulates the palate.
—Mushroom Ravioli: earthy with clean, balanced flavors in the broth it is served in.
—Tournedos of Beef are true to their roots. Filet of beef is paired with roasted shallot potatoes. It’s a straightforward and pleasing dish.
—Halibut is such a clean tasting fish with such a good texture that it needs to be handled simply and we always do that.
—Bread Pudding. This one’s a little different and I love it. It has both pears and apples in it.
Chocolate Espresso Souffl & #233; is a happy, high-hat affair sparkling with chocolate and coffee flavors.
Three favorite local restaurants:
—Foxfire stands out in my mind because the chef, Eric Nguyen, pays great attention to detail. He is extremely inventive and every plate is well thought out from the flavor to the presentation.
(And, Chris admits to enjoying a really good kosher hot dog.)
John Merlino
Claim Jumper
Seven locations in Orange County
John began his career at Claim Jumper in Laguna Hills in 1978. He took time off to study and graduate from the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco in the mid-’80s and then worked in a series of country clubs and restaurants. Denver was a hotbed of restaurant activity in the early ’90s and John took a job there with Vicorp Restaurants, Inc. as director of research and menu development at one of its resorts. Then, in 1996, he returned to California to work again with Claim Jumper Restaurants as corporate chef. I’ve long given President and CEO Craig Nickoloff credit for turning a big-portion idea into a group of great family-friendly restaurants that look as good as many expensive private lodges and whose quality has gone up considerably from its humble beginnings.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: Convincing people that I had the ability at a young age to handle executive tasks in the kitchen.
Most unusual request: I once blended a lady’s breakfast (eggs, hash browns and bacon) with orange juice so she could suck it through a straw with her mouth wired shut.
Most enjoyable part of being a chef: I love the relationships I have made along the way, especially the one with Craig Nickoloff and Scott McIntosh (the COO) and seeing their faces light up after trying a new dish.
Six recommended dishes from your menu:
—Potato Cakes Appetizer made with mashed potatoes mixed with three kinds of cheese, cilantro and dill.
—Cowboy Steak. It’s a full 16 oz. center cut New York. I prefer it medium rare.
—Widowmaker Hamburger. Maybe this hefty sandwich does not need more description.
—Fish and Chips. A simple, clean change of pace.
—Tri-Tip Dip Sandwich. Tri-tip beef is so flavorful and I just like the combination with mild chiles and caramelized onions.
—Lemon Bar Brulee. How can you not like a cheesecake filling on top of a cookie crust with a lemon topping?
—La Serenata de Garibaldi in LA because of the unusual, very upscale Mexican food prepared with a huge emphasis on flavor and freshness. The sopes and enchilada suizos are great.
—Ho Sum Bistro in Newport Beach. Try the chicken salad, potstickers and an ice tea and you’ll see why. And, it’s quick service by the beach.
—Restaurant Abe in Balboa for the ultimate in sushi. Guaranteed to exceed your expectations. Totally innovative with the extreme for ingredients. Don’t order California roll or the chefs will look at you like you’re weird.
Eduardo Meza
Anaheim White House
887 S. Anaheim Blvd., Anaheim
(714) 772-1381
Eduardo grew up in Mexico, and has been working in the White House kitchen for 13 years. He was an avid learner and under two former chefs of the restaurant, who both earned much acclaim, he cooked more and more with a passion of his own. The restaurant’s owner, Bruno Serato, added some input by telling me that one of his most enjoyable moments was the day six years ago when he told Eduardo that one day he would be the executive chef of the restaurant. Last year it happened.
Bruno, incidentally, is a native of Verona, Italy, and a fine cook in his own right. He makes regular trips to Italy to search out the newest Italian dishes for his sophisticated menu and comes back to work them out with Eduardo. The atmosphere here is charming and warm and as comfortable as the salon in a country home, providing a perfect backdrop for the food.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: Being away from my family so much and not having much time to spend with them.
Most unusual request: An order of steak tartare that the customer requested “medium well.” (Bruno explained to the customer that it is raw beef, but then shared the story with Eduardo).
Most enjoyable part of being a chef: Cooking dinner for Burno, and since he’s such a good cook himself, having Bruno cook dinner for me.
—Ahi Tuna Appetizer because it’s a beautiful presentation, with the carpaccio spread around the plate and the avocado mousse in the center, and it has simple but refined taste.
—Scallops Martini Appetizer. It is served in a martini glass and flavored with a vodka and blackberry liqueur vinaigrette.
—Lobster Ravioli that we serve with an orange beurre blanc. It’s one of our most famous items.
—Rack of Lamb. We separate the meat from the bones and stack the bones around mashed potatoes and put the sliced meat back “on” the rack. It makes it easy to eat.
—Braised Rabbit that is served on saffron risotto.
—Rigatoni Carbonara because it’s in a creamy cheese sauce exactly as it’s done in Tuscany.
Three favorite local restaurants:
–Bistango: The food is excellent and the atmosphere is great.
—China Palace in Newport Beach: The food is wonderful and I understand they treat Bruno like a king when he goes there.
—In-N-Out Burger: It’s fast, consistent and families always enjoy it.
Eric Nguyen
Foxfire American
5717 E. Santa Ana Canyon Road,
Anaheim Hills
(714) 974-5400
Eric had an early exposure to the culinary world under his grandmother’s direction at a family-owned restaurant in Avignon, France. At age 14, he met his great mentor, Jacque Pepin, the famed television chef and author. Pepin was sufficiently impressed to encouraged Eric to continue his apprenticeship in New York City. While in New York, he worked in some of the most famous restaurants. He traveled throughout Europe as well, researching the food cultures. It is his belief that respect and discipline are “the most important aspects in the art of cooking.” His cookingcombines the detail of French cuisine with the freshness of California flair. He’s an adventurous gourmet, never settling on one style but constantly challenging his own creativity. The fully redecorated restaurant is a lovely setting for his eye-appealing dishes.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: Patience. I had to learn to have patience with myself while I took time to learn and train. I expected a great deal out of myself and expected to master concepts quickly. Patience became my mentor.
Most unusual request: I had to prepare a New York steak topped with peanut butter and crushed black pepper. I offered to make a fresh peanut sauce instead, but the customer insisted on his own concoction.
Most enjoyable part of being a chef: I enjoy helping others further their careers because I am so grateful to those who helped me. In the beginning, preparing the dishes and watching the impressions they make was the most important part of my career. Then I learned that a greater reward comes from teaching that skill to others than actually preparing it yourself.
Six recommended dishes from your menu:
We have an excellent array of steaks and chops, but my passion is to create specials with ingredients that I love. I chose to mention the six ingredients I love to use in my specials. They are:
—Organic White Corn. I grill it on the cob inside the husk, then cut it off the cob and serve it with a polenta flavored with mascarpone cheese. It’s fresh and sweet and wonderful.
—Micro Arugula. They are tiny greens, the size of clover; but they have an incredible intensity. I toss them with a little lemon juice and bits of lamb.
—Organic Baby Peppers. When our personal vegetable “shopper” in the San Joaquin Valley can get these miniatures, I stuff them with puree of eggplant, puree of olives and a puree of anchovies and squash. I serve one of each on the plate.
—Sea Bream. It’s a fresh fish from the Mediterranean, which I also use for specials of the day. I grill it whole, debone it and drip a lobster vinaigrette over it.
—California-raised Free-range Game. I can put a little foie gras, garlic and shallot puree under the skin of quail or squab and sear it, then finish it in the oven and dash it with Madeira for an amazing appetizer or an entr & #233;e.
—Wild Mushrooms and Truffles from Europe. It’s the season for truffles and a tiny bit can add an indescribable finesse to a dish as can the correct use of exotic mushrooms.
—Troquet, because good food helps get my creative juices flowing and sparks ideas.
—Five Feet, because Michael Kang is a maniac.
—Golden Truffle, because Alan Greeley is the Godfather.
Scott Raczek
Mr. Stox
1105 E. Katella Ave., Anaheim
(714) 634-2994
I don’t even remember how long I’ve known Scott, but it’s been around 20 years. He was so young when he was cooking and already impressing us at a hotel in Irvine. I remember thinking that no kid that young could be standing at my table talking so intensively about the fresh figs that made the roasted pork taste so special, or the wine from Ventana Vineyards that he was suggesting to go with it. He’s never left the kitchen, and for more than a decade now, he’s been heading the kitchen here and creating a menu to match the wines in their Wine Spectator Grand Award cellar. In his own words, “I have worked with Ron and Chick Marshall (the owners) at Mr. Stox in a timeless and vivacious journey.” If you’ve not visited for a while, be prepared for a grand surprise because there’s a gorgeous new courtyard and fountain at the front entrance and a new marble-intensive foyer. The restaurant has always been very attractive, but this kicks things up a notch.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: It has nothing to do with cooking: I’ve never broken par.
Most unusual request: For years, every Friday at lunch, Karen,a great customer of Mr. Stox,would have me sneak an ounce of Beluga caviar to her to take home and savor later that evening with her martini. We wondered if her husband ever questioned why his Friday lunch tabs were so high!
Most enjoyable part of being a chef: Close your eyes: imagine flavor, aroma, colors and textures of the food you want to cook. Think of an aged wine that will strike an accord with the cuisine. Then do it!
—Ahi Carpaccio. I do it with a wasabi cream and greens tossed with a little sesame oil vinaigrette
—Grilled Baquetta Sea Bass. It’s on grilled vegetables and there’s asparagus risotto on the side.
—Rare Duck Breast and Confit of Duck Leg. I love this yin/yang of duck cooked two ways: the breast is so lightly cooked and the confit, of course, is fully roasted and so redolent. I serve it with spinach and a cassoulet of beans.
—Our Wine List! I know I’m supposed to give you more dishes, but I love the versatility of our extensive wine list and I’d rather mention it. Three favorite local restaurants:
—Allegro in Orange, because Mario Petillo cooks authentic Italian food and we dine like peasants. It’s great!
—Rosine’s in East Hills. It has simple, flavorful Mediterranean fare and a unique boutique wine list.
—Rudy’s Pizza in Anaheim Hills. I better say this, because this is my wife Anna’s restaurant! For family, friends and fun.
Chris Reishl
Savannah Chop House
32441 Golden Lantern, Laguna Niguel
(949) 493-7107
Chris is a graduate of the French Culinary Institute in New York City. He worked at the Four Seasons in Newport Beach when he graduated. He also worked at Ristorante Ferrantelli in the Dana Point, after which he served as corporate chef for the Giorgio Armani group based in Beverly Hills. He continued cooking for the high-rent crowd by doing a stint for Randy Gerber and Cindy Crawford, opening their Whiskey Bar and Grill in Chicago. Working for David Wilhelm may be his biggest coup yet, because David can create a concept with a unique personality and envision everything from the d & #233;cor to the food, then get in the kitchen and create the menu to match it. He’s a mentor to hang on to. Of course, Savannah is one of his more down-home concepts, where comfortable lodge atmosphere meets delicious food. And, Chris is doing a fine job of following David’s lead.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: When I went away to cooking school in New York for a year and my wife stayed in California with our new baby. I had no job and no place to stay but it all magically worked out.
Most unusual request: When I had to prepare Cuban food for a Giorgio Armani party when he released his new spring line. I had no idea what I was doing, but I pulled it off.
Most enjoyable part of being a chef: The daily challenge of always needing to come up with something new and exciting and being ready to create new dishes.
Six recommended dishes from your menu:
—Halibut with Red Thai Curry Sauce. The fish is gently cooked and served with toasted coconut cilantro rice.
—Prosciutto-wrapped Shrimp. I do them with a mango, papaya and pineapple salsa.
—14-oz. Veal Chop. I think the roasted shiitake mushroom butter and crispy leeks really complement it.
—Mesquite-smoked Prime Rib. It’s already a wonderful piece of beef. The smoky flavor from the wood just enhances it all the more.
—Soft-Shell Crab. I use tandoori spice and mango flavoring, then drizzle it with fresh mint oil.
—Chocolate Souffl & #233; Cake. It’s light and delicate and nicely complemented with candied pecans and vanilla bean ice cream.
Three favorite local restaurants:
—Lantern Bay Grill in Dana Point is owned by my friend, Pierre Tamas. I like his light touch with food and he’s also a mentor. I worked for him when I was only 18. He taught me what business is really about.
—Blackbird on Randolph Street in Chicago is great. The chef cooks contemporary American food with a lot of Asian influence. They also have a great wine list.
—Harbor Grill is perfect when I want to go casual and get a nice piece of fish and a good glass of wine.
Raul Reyes
Riviera at the Fireside
13950 Springdale Ave., Westminster
(714) 897-0477
This is really the shortest chef’s story to tell because Raul has spent his entire 25-year career in Riviera’s kitchen. And during those 25 years, he has been an avid all-around student of food and the culinary arts. He is a wiz at picking the best produce and pieces of meat that come into his kitchen and is likely to send purveyors packing with the items they brought in if the quality is not up to his standards. He researches food and trends, and although Riviera is known for its classic Continental style cuisine, Raul is well aware of the creative food world beyond his kitchen and customers appreciate that. We were somewhat worried whether the restaurant could successfully transplant itself after leaving South Coast Plaza. We needn’t have been bothered, for Riviera is enjoying unprecedented success at this warm and charming location.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: Working for 25 years in a restaurant that doesn’t know the meaning of turnover. Starting as an apprentice cook, I had to gradually work my way to garde manger (all-around cook), assistant chef to Richard Bergner, who recently retired, and finally head chef.
Most unusual request: Steak Tartare ordered well done. It happens frequently. And another time, a request for Veal Oscar, substituting crab legs for escargot. Of course, crab legs are part of the recipe, not escargot!
Most enjoyable part of being a chef: The opportunity to be creative and have the freedom to experiment with new dishes and ingredients. And, the pay is not bad either.
—Steak Tartare is our freshly chopped beef prepared tableside. One of my favorites.
—Duckling & #341;’la Orange is the classic roast duck with orange sauce, finished with flaming Cointreau.
—Gourmandise of Filet. Filet mignon wrapped in crepes, then glazed with Mornay sauce.
—Coq au Vin is a delicious, fork-tender chicken cooked in Burgundy wine.
—Veal Marsala is something I can always eat. The veal is saut & #233;ed and finished with a Marsala sauce.
—Pepper Steak Flamb & #233; consists of either a NY cut or filet mignon flamed with Cognac and served with a mustard/cream sauce.
—Bistango in Irvine for wonderful presentations and atmosphere.
—Five Crowns in Corona del Mar for the total package, consistency and value.
—Luigi’s Italiano in Anaheim for all-around good food.
Hermann Schaefer
Bistango
19100 Von Karman, Irvine
(949) 752-5222
Hermann is Austrian and developed his love of food from watching his grandmother cook regional specialties for the family. He and a friend got jobs making pastries at a shop after school each day. He also helped out at his mother’s outdoor tavern. Hotel and restaurant management school occupied him for three years before he started his apprenticeship in one of Austria’s most luxurious hotels.
He came to the United States in 1994 and a year later found his “cooking” home at Bistango. He was promoted to chef last year when Paul Gstrein moved to Bayside and has since put his own signature on the menu. Like the artistic atmosphere that is the great beauty of this restaurant, Hermann’s food is art on a plate in both taste and presentation.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: Giving everything up in Europe and moving to the states while speaking only a little bit of English.
Most unusual request: So far I have been lucky and never been asked to make anything bizarre.
Most enjoyable part of being a chef: I just love to cook, so creating new menus. I love the whole process from first tasting to presentation.
Six recommended dishes from your menu:
—Asparagus Salad with Roasted Red Beets. It’s finished with walnuts and the delicate flavor of Austrian pumpkinseed oil.
—Tuna Tartare with cucumber, avocado and chile vinaigrette.
—Quickly Seared Swordfish that we serve on a bed of lemon-marinated fennel with a soft herb salad surrounding it.
—Brine-Marinated Pork Porterhouse: the brine makes it so juicy and flavorful and it has specially grown Chino Farms vegetables and a potato tower on the plate.
—Medallions of Veal Tenderloin. Chanterelle mushrooms, potato gnocchi and a bit of truffle essence finish the presentation.
—Loin of Venison with rosemary roasted nectarine, Swiss spaetzle and balsamic reduction.
Three favorite local restaurants:
—Bayside: I like the looks of the restaurant and Paul’s food is not bad either (he says with a deep laugh!).
—French 75: The atmosphere is wonderful and the whole experience is very French.
—Spago in Beverly Hills: The menu is very creative and how could I not like Wolf’s (chef and owner Wolfgang Puck) Austrian connection?
Tom Shields
The Bungalow
2441 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar
(949) 673-6585
Tom grew up in New York and enjoyed cooking as a child. His first real job was in a small restaurant in Hopewell Junction. From there, he segued to a major resort hotel and realized he’d found his true passion. That lead to his attendance at the Culinary Institute of America.
Tom then cooked at Harrah’s Hotel and Casino in South Lake Tahoe and was corporate executive chef for a successful chain operation. He ended up at The Bungalow and says that he’s truly found his “home.” He told me he’d much rather be in the playground (his kitchen) experimenting than spending hours in an office on the big corporate level. The craftsman style building oozing understated sophistication is a fine backdrop for his signature dishes.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: Finding personal time for family and friends while devoting the time necessary to hone my craft.
Most unusual request: I’m drawing a blank. This is California,guests here have a lot of different requests!
Most enjoyable part of being a chef: Teaching those who show a true interest in the culinary arts, contemporizing classic dishes.
—Pan Fried Crab Cakes with pineapple beurre blanc and sweet potato threads.
—Oven Roasted Cold Water Australian Lobster Tail. The sweetness of the meat is wonderful.
—Herb-Encrusted Rack of Lamb with the light flavor of tarragon and Dijon demi-glace.
—Sesame Crusted Ahi seared with ginger and soy.
—Bone-in Rib-eye Steak. It’s the loin end of the prime rib, so tender and flavorful.
—Jumbo Grilled Prawns served over sugar snap pea risotto.
—Vincenti in Brentwood for Authentic Italian. Their attention to detail is incredible.
—Papadakis in San Pedro. John makes you feel more like a guest in his home than a customer patronizing his business.
—Picayo in Laguna Beach for the creative, warm, beautiful presentation of great food.
Brian Tran
La Vie En Rose
240 S. State College Blvd., Brea
(714) 529-8333
Brian was born in Saigon. His family moved in 1979 to Belgium, where he spent most of his life. He started to work at an early age in his uncle’s restaurant. He attended culinary school and worked at two restaurants at the same time, one Chinese and one French. He is quite a linguist because of all this background: he speaks Cantonese, Vietnamese, French and English. He graduated from & #233;cole d’Hotellerie de Li & #269;ge in Belgium in 1991 and arrived in California in 1994 to learn more about the language and the culture. Since he had his degree from one of the world’s famous culinary schools, it was not surprising to find Louis Laulhere, owner of the restaurant, putting him in the kitchen. We happened to go to dinner only two weeks after Brian first arrived at this French country home turned restaurant, and were impressed way back then. We continue to love the finesse of his dishes.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: Most difficult thing in my life on the way to getting the position I have today would be in the early stage of my career when I had to work long hours under stressful conditions and at a hectic pace.
Most unusual request: Even though it happens quite often, when people ask for an extra well-done steak, it seems strange to me, because the meat loses all the flavor and tenderness when it is cooked that much.
Most enjoyable part of being a chef: What I enjoy the most about being a chef is to have the knowledge, the taste and the skill to prepare many types of foods and dishes. Possibilities are unlimited
Six recommended dishes from your menu:
—Escargot Bourguignonne. A truly classic French appetizer. Prepared in the traditional manner.
–Lobster Bisque is a favorite of mine too. It’s rich and creamy with a deep essence of shellfish.
–Roasted Rack of Lamb is very popular with customers. I flavor it with fresh thyme.
—Sirloin Steak au Poivre: Sometimes nothing can top a perfectly cooked steak like this classic with peppercorns.
—Cr & #269;me Br & #369;l & #233;e: We’ve refined and redefined the recipe and I think this is as creamy and sensual as this dessert can be.
—Grand Marnier Souffl & #233;. It’s so traditional in a French restaurant, but it has to be put in the oven at precisely the right time and customers should know they may wait for the souffl & #233;, but the souffl & #233; waits for nobody. It will deflate if the timing is not right.
Three favorite local restaurants:
—Paris, the new restaurant in Anaheim, is a great place for the ambiance and service
—Diamond Palace in Walnut has live seafood tanks ensuring fresh preparations, but the taste of the dishes is also exceptional.
—Little Tokyo sushi restaurant in San Dimas has wonderful quality and freshness in their sushi and sashimi.
Zack Zeigler
Woody’s at the Beach
1305 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach
(949) 376-8809
Zack is originally from San Diego, but has lived in Cambodia, Singapore, Germany, Spain and France at different times in his life. He thinks of Southern California, with its bounty of fresh produce and seafoods, as home. Zack earned a culinary degree in San Diego where he worked at the Hotel Del Coronado, after which he worked as a sous chef at the venerable Top O’ the Cove in La Jolla. Most recently, he worked in Palm Springs at the Villa Royale Hotel as the executive chef where he received the Chef’s 2000 Gold Medal Award from the American Culinary Institute. He may only have arrived recently in this kitchen, but his food is quite sophisticated. I think it’s some of the best food in Laguna right now. The casual, contemporary restaurant is the epitome of seaside dining.
Most difficult part of getting to where you are today: Taking that first step and deciding that this is the direction I wanted my life to head in. That required making a full commitment to this craft. Finding good mentors and putting in the effort required to get the most out my training helped in that regard.
Most unusual request: I did a cigar-tasting dinner, pairing a variety of cigars with dinner courses. I had to find a way to keep the flavors bold and lively to stand up to the cloying effect of the smoke, but at the same time not dominate the flavors of the tobacco. I used a lot of Ports and Cognacs with those dishes.
Most enjoyable about being a chef: Experimenting. The best thing about being a chef is being able to play and experiment with a dish, trying new variations; trying to coax out a dish’s natural flavors.
Recommended dishes from your menu:
—Spicy Rabbit Spring Rolls. Yes, rabbit, and it’s delicious with Thai cucumber dipping sauce.
—Rock Shrimp and French Green Lentil Salad with hothouse cucumber vinaigrette.
—Braised Buffalo Short Ribs with ancho chile and garlic smashed potatoes.
—Alder Smoked Pork Tenderloin with caramelized green apples and chipotle peppers.
—Roasted Pacific Red Snapper on Peruvian purple potato puree with sorrel sauce.
I only arrived in the Laguna area in the last month and a half. Unfortunately, between organizing my kitchen and starting our new fall menu, I haven’t had the chance to sample the local restaurants.
