Ciao to Mama Rose, an Italian Enclave in Costa Mesa

Mama Rose will be missed.

The adorable little enclave of Italian personality on Newport Boulevard in Costa Mesa has closed. Just five days short of its 10th anniversary, customers had their final chance to dine on Richard Lombardi’s food built around old family recipes.

Richard and his wife, Elaine, took care of us lovingly. He would cook for a while, then come into the dining room and make sure that every customer got some of his attention, while Elaine made her constant rounds making sure that all were greeted with a smile and left with one, too.

Mama Rose achieved many successes during its reign, including some super reviews from critics and numerous awards. And the restaurant regularly participated in fund-raising events for the community.

Besides the comforting food, it was a venue for interesting live entertainment that one-upped other Italian eateries. We got used to the yearly Christmas shows and the cabaret performances by Broadway and television stars. All were performed as we ate, turning a personal little experience into a dinner theater to remember.

Richard and Elaine now plan to work on two cookbooks. One will be a children’s cookbook and the other an Italian American book filled with Richard’s best recipes and the stories behind them.

I wish them well in these new endeavors and extend my appreciation for the beautiful dining experience that Mama Rose was for a decade.

New Beginnings

Then there are the emerging restaurants.

David Wilhelm plans to expand his French 75 concept beyond Laguna Beach. Plans are in the works for a good-sized French 75 Brasserie at the MarketPlace in Irvine.

That one should open by early fall. Following that, Pasadena and Century City in Los Angeles are slated to have their own French 75 Brasseries.

In case you haven’t noticed, French restaurants are the big national trend again.

Mais Oui

Of the many French restaurants in the Los Angeles area, you might want to add Ortolan to your dining calendar.

It’s a new French bistro on Third Street, whose name refers to a tiny songbird in the bunting family. While I’ve not yet been to this just-opened place, it’s said to be quite glamorous with interesting and delicious food.

Knowing the passionately conceived food of the new chef/owner in the past, I have to believe that what I’ve heard is true.

Owners are acclaimed chef Christophe Em & #233; (of L.A.’s longstanding, gourmet flagship French restaurant, L’Orangerie) and Jeri Ryan, the actress from “Star Trek: Voyager” and “Boston Public” and recent ex-wife of state senate candidate in Illinois, Jack Ryan (a sex scandal caused him to drop out).

Two of Christophe’s signature menu items are crispy langoustines with basil, chickpeas and a shot of minestrone and roasted squab breast and leg with a gratin of macaroni and tapenade salad.

Ortolan: 8338 W. Third St. (near La Cienega), (323) 653-3300.

From the Sea

Bluewater Grill restaurants are getting set for their annual raw oyster tasting, dubbed Tastes of the Pacific Northwest, on March 8 at 6:30 p.m.

Featured oysters on the half shell are from California, Washington and Oregon. Price is $19.95 a person.

I always appreciate the real dining value that Bluewater represents, knowing that the extensive selection of fresh daily shellfish and seafood offered could fetch much higher prices.

There’s a choice of wines or beers: Hogue J. Riesling from Washington, Eyrie Pinot Gris from Oregon or Jepson Viognier from California in the wine category, and Anchor Steam, Firestone Double Barrel Ale, Heineken, Bass or Pilsner Urquell for beer.

Reservations for the Oyster Tasting are recommended.

We have two Bluewater Grills in OC. There’s one in Santa Ana at the South Coast Plaza Village. Phone: (714) 546-3474. The other is in Newport Beach at 630 Lido Park Drive. Phone: (949) 675-3474.

There’s also a Bluewater Grill in Redondo Beach at 665 North Harbor Drive. Phone: (310) 318-3474.

Fresh Roast

Starbucks at Fashion Island has moved to a space between Tutto Mare and Caf & #233; R & D.;

The new location features a warm interior and an outside patio.

Starbucks’ move seems appropriate to me.

Caf & #233; R & D;, offering mostly upscale sandwiches and salads in a wonderfully sleek and friendly atmosphere, has been popular since it opened last year. Tutto Mare is one of the longtime dependable restaurants of Fashion Island.

The former Starbucks location in Atrium Court is part of Barnes & Noble’s expansion. The bookstore is slated to open in early 2006.