The perfect wine pairing for a multi-course meal should never leave you stumbling from the table. It should leave you basking in the glow of a meal prepared flawlessly, where the wine accents — not overwhelms — the culinary passion delivered with each plate.
And that’s what you’ll find when you experience Selanne Steak Tavern’s exclusive dining series VIII by Selanne.
Meant as a summer-only dining event, the restaurant — co-owned by former Anaheim Ducks hockey player Teemu Selänne — is extending the weekend-only pop-up through December due to high demand.
After experiencing the intimate pop-up, featuring eight curated courses by chef Vince Terusa and his talented culinary team, I can see why it was extended.
Each seasonally inspired course — from kampachi crudo to Dungeness crab cappelletti — is expertly paired by advanced sommelier Vito Pasquale.
Pasquale and Terusa play key roles throughout the evening. Terusa or a member of his team visits each table to describe each course. As such, the pacing is exquisite — like a well-orchestrated symphony — allowing diners to savor each bite in a relaxed environment.
While Selanne’s main restaurant is bustling with activity and lively with chatter, the pop-up setting is much more intimate. It is located in the restaurant’s former private club dining space, which includes a kitchen and a handful of tables.
The building is adjacent to the main entrance of Selanne Steak Tavern in the historic Brayton Laguna Pottery building.
The progression of our multi-course meal was expertly executed, ranging from canapes to a lamb dish garnished with squash blossoms – a perfect culinary crescendo.
Favorite dishes?
Well, they were all delightful, but I enjoyed the playful first course — a trio of canapes that pay homage to Selanne’s famous steaks and mashed potatoes: akami tuna cornet served on a toasted cone with avocado crema, a beef tartlet and a pomme dauphine (crispy mashed potato ball).
“It’s kind of like meat and potatoes, surf and turf. That’s kind of what we’re going for on this course,” chef Teruso said.
My dining partner and I also swooned over the kampachi crudo — served on green apple consommé with chili oil, and garnished with fresh radish, cilantro flowers and my absolute favorite — pearls of finger lime. It was paired with a Schloss-Liser Riesling from Mosel, Germany.
When Pasquale introduced the wine, I gasped as it is on my bucket list to visit the German Mosel region, which is famous for its world-class Riesling wines.
VIII by Selanne is not only giving diners a memorable meal, but it might also just remind you of the memories yet to come — like it did for me.
The VIII by Selanne menu changes with the seasons. Chef Terusa expects to move to richer courses as the temperatures cool down in the coming weeks. Reservations available on Tock.
Address: 1456 South Coast Highway, Laguna Beach, next to the main restaurant. www.selannesteaktavern.com
