What is it with Austin, Texas? I have had three requests in two months for suggestions on dining in that city. Two were from readers who were staying a few days on business, the third was from friends who have never seen the city and will be going there on vacation. Good thing I recently went there myself so that I could be of some help.
Let me begin by saying that Austin is a very beautiful city and one that is exceedingly easy to negotiate. It is nestled in the charming hill country of Texas, which lays waste to the notion that Texas is just a big, flat piece of land. It is only 79 miles from Austin to San Antonio, so taking in the historical significance of that city is also a good day trip if you are on a restricted schedule. Between these two major cities are many small towns where time seems to have stopped. Those interested in antiques will find added enjoyment in these unique little enclaves.
Austin is an architecturally pleasing city. The downtown skyline is punctuated by marvelous views of the capitol dome. Take an evening stroll down Sixth Street where clubs sitting side by side offer some of the best music in Texas. If you are looking for Austin of the past, have a drink at The Cedar Door.
Take a 45-minute drive to see some of the historic small towns just off the main highway to San Antonio. Comfort is a sweet place to stroll the streets and peek in interesting shops. Fredericksburg is a nice-size city where artisans, Texas hospitality and German food meet. Don’t miss seeing Gruene (pronounced “green”). Settled by German farmers in the 1840s, it has homes dating from that era open to the public. It is also home to Gruene Hall, the oldest dance hall in Texas. Walk through the screen door and into the massive building and you can almost hear the stories tumble from the worn wood floors and tables. George Strait, Lyle Lovett and Hal Ketchum all started their careers here, and almost every major country recording star still stops by occasionally to play a tune or two for the customers,sometimes a whole concert. Just recently, Little Richard and Asleep at the Wheel have entertained.
I had a lot of fun talking with local Mike Hayes at the stand-up bar while we downed our beers on a hot day. He was so neighborly that he even gave me his recipe for making real Texas barbecue.
For food that speaks to the earlier days of the state, do not miss Threadgill’s on North Lamar Street in downtown Austin. There are now two restaurants, but this is the original. The converted gas station dates back to 1933 and the down-home food has been raved about in Southern Living, Bon App & #233;tit and Gourmet magazines. You’ll never finish the massive portions of steak, pork chops, fried catfish, fried oysters, glazed ham, fried chicken livers and the best chicken-fried steak this side of heaven. You get two vegetables and cornbread with all meals. At $6.95 to $15.95 for these massive repasts, it may be the best bargain in the state.
A restaurant with views to remember is the Oasis with its 32 decks on various levels jutting out over Lake Travis. It looks much older, but the Oasis dates only to 1982. It was once a ranch house. The owners made use of the wood and river rock structure and kept adding decks to the front of the house, and today it’s become a compelling place to sit down to real comfort. Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday during the summer, there’s live entertainment in the evenings. The food is a mix of Tex-Mex and American classics, with a two-course dinner costing an average of $18.
One of the hottest new restaurants in town, and my up-front recommendation for anyone visiting Austin, is North by Northwest. Fellow Texans Davis Tucker and Tom Lohnes are greeting customers in their extremely attractive brew pub that also boasts a chef who has put together a very interesting menu. Architectural details include use of river stone, raw and polished wood, abundant brickwork, soaring ceilings and stained concrete floors. It oozes Texas hospitality.
There are lots of nice wines on the list, but why not try their signature beers with your meal? The Crooked Creek Black Cherry Ale is a brew I wish I could find here; it’s light with a fleshy essence of fresh black cherries. Food adding decks to the front of the house, and today it’s become a compelling place to sit down to real comfort. Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday during the summer, there’s live entertainment in the evenings. The food is a mix of Tex-Mex and American classics, with a two-course dinner costing an average of $18.
One of the hottest new restaurants in town, and my up-front recommendation for anyone visiting Austin, is North by Northwest. Fellow Texans Davis Tucker and Tom Lohnes are greeting customers in their extremely attractive brew pub that also boasts a chef who has put together a very interesting menu. Architectural details include use of river stone, raw and polished wood, abundant brickwork, soaring ceilings and stained concrete floors. It oozes Texas hospitality.
There are lots of nice wines on the list, but why not try their signature beers with your meal? The Crooked Creek Black Cherry Ale is a brew I wish I could find here; it’s light with a fleshy essence of fresh black cherries. Food ranges from stone oven pizzas,there’s a marvelous smoked salmon one,to creative appetizers and entr & #233;es.
I had dinner with half a dozen people, which made for an excellent opportunity to try many dishes. My favorite appetizers included that aforementioned pizza, the pan-seared crab and shrimp cakes with mango and bell pepper salad, sizzling mussels (about three dozen of them steamed in ale with garlic and tomato), and grilled quail on spinach-cabbage salad. I loved the mashed potatoes with caramelized onions in them that came with many of the entr & #233;es. Bests in that category included the fresh stream trout, grilled duck breast on Parmesan polenta, pork tenderloin in soy/ginger sauce, Asian shrimp linguine in a ginger-lemongrass broth, and a good Texas-style steak. Two desserts are true to their culture and both marvelous. Caramelized cornbread is the basis for the bread pudding, and the pecan terrine is very uptown with its layers of bittersweet chocolate and a chocolate sauce dappled with dried cherries forming a moat. Average price for a three-course dinner is $22 for food alone.
We stayed at the Renaissance Hotel, which handily is only two blocks from North by Northwest. It’s a gorgeous hotel with spacious rooms built around a soaring atrium. The service staff is most friendly and accommodating and the hotel has the amenities to get you anywhere quickly if you are not renting a car. The breakfast buffet to start your day is marvelous, full of classic dishes and Southern specialties. When it’s time for a cocktail, you’ll love the intimate bar tucked beneath one wing of the first floor rooms.
AT A GLANCE
AUSTIN, TEXAS
NORTH BY NORTHWEST
Location: 10010 Capital of Texas Highway, Austin
Phone: (512) 467-6969
THE OASIS
Location: 6550 Comanche Trail, Austin
Phone: (512) 266-2441
THREADGILL’S
Location: 6416 N. Lamar, Austin
Phone: (512) 451-5440
RENAISSANCE HOTEL
Location: 9721 Arboretum Blvd., Austin
Phone: (512) 343-2626
