FIFI’S GUIDE, A to M
A Compendium of OC Restaurants Reviewed in Past Fifi’s Best Sections
Special Report – Executive Dining by Fifi Chao
Here is a directory of restaurants I’ve reviewed over the years. I hope you find the list a useful guide to dining adventures here in OC. I’ve certainly had a wonderful time researching it! The second half of the list will appear in the Fifi’s Best coming up July 1.
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21 OCEANFRONT
2100 W. Oceanfront, Newport Beach
(949) 673-2100
Seafood
The charisma and patina of old San Francisco permeate this lovely place overlooking the Pacific. Wonderful seafood and California-style dishes dominate the menu. The platter of cracked crab and French fries is tasteful simplicity.
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ACCENTS
4500 MacArthur Blvd., Newport Beach
(949) 476-2001
Creative French
Classic French dishes are sometimes tweaked with the use of international herbs and spices, and sometimes they’re allowed traditional simplicity but presented in masterful ways. The architectural charm of the restaurant itself is like having dessert throughout the meal.
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AMELIA’S
311 Marine Ave., Balboa Island
(949) 673-6580
Italian seafood
While there are a few meat and poultry dishes on the menu of this legendary restaurant, it is the fresh seafood, prepared in the home-style Italian manner, that is the star. The sauces on the pastas deserve their own accolades. Convivial atmosphere on this homey island is a plus.
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ANAHEIM WHITE HOUSE
887 S. Anaheim Blvd., Anaheim
(714) 772-1381
Ultra-sophisticated Italian
High-class food as it is prepared in Italy today, some of which has subtle French touches. Best example: lobster ravioli in citrus beurre blanc. Presentations are gorgeous, tastes refined and compelling. The courtly historic home in which it is served adds dimension.
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ANTONELLO
RISTORANTE
1611 W. Sunflower Drive, Santa Ana
(714) 751-7153
Refined Italian
Beautiful food served with class. From tiny ravioli to succulent roasted meats and delicately dressed pastas, this menu is impressive. The surroundings, reminiscent of a magnificent village scene in Italy, are drop-dead gorgeous.
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ARCHES
3334 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach
(949) 645-7077
Serious Continental
Steaks, shellfish, curry, Italian specialties and classic European and American dishes are legendary. Tableside cooking is an art retained. Others try to replicate the warm, clubby 1940s atmosphere, complete with red leather booths, but fall far short. Our favorite late-night dining spot.
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ASIA NOODLE CAF & #201;
4724 Barranca Parkway, Irvine
(949) 654-1801
4187 Campus Drive, Irvine
(949) 854-8826
Mixed Oriental
Ample servings of noodles or rice loaded with delicious meat and vegetable combinations, plus terrific stir-fry dishes at very low prices. Atmosphere is sleeker than expected.
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BACK BAY ROWING & RUNNING CLUB
3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa
(714) 641-0118
American eclectic
One of my personal favorites. The most diversified menu within South Coast Plaza. People watching takes a back seat to the meatloaf, chicken salad and other very satisfying foods. Make sure not to miss the marvelous salad bar.
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BACK POCKET
3851 Bear St., Santa Ana
(714) 668-1737
Scandinavian
It may be the more casual sister restaurant beside Gustaf Anders, but it’s just as serious about fine food. Several varieties of herring, beef stew thick with tiny meatballs, lamb pie with pickled vegetables, pork chop with sauerkraut and potatoes and other home-style meals transport me back to Denmark and Sweden in an instant.
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BANGKOK 4
3333 Bear St., Costa Mesa
(714) 540-7661
Thai
Cool, dramatic surroundings envisioned by a movie set designer and authentic food draw a loyal food-knowledgeable clientele. Spicy dishes from southern Thailand and milder ones from the north provide refined dining. It’s perfect for business, romance or pre-theater.
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BAYSIDE
900 Bayside Drive, Newport Beach
(949) 721-1222
Spontaneous California
Seafood’s important to this menu, as in a seafood “martini,” but there’s a lot of other marvelous food: quail with foie gras, venison, fork-tender grilled steak. Add an array of totally impressive desserts and a wine cellar to be reckoned with. Chic, modern atmosphere with sophisticated trappings.
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BISTANGO
19100 Von Karman Ave., Irvine
(949) 752-5222
Creative California
The worldly art gallery serving as restaurant is famous for its beauty. The artful presentations of well-bred food are only surpassed by the intriguing flavors on the plates. The owner was my pick as restaurateur of the year for 1999.
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BISTRO 201
3333 W. Pacific Coast Highway, Newport Beach
(949) 631-1551
Cross-cultural
Think of roasted meats, poultry, fish enhanced by spices from around the world, many of them of Oriental persuasion. Crispy skinned whitefish, for instance, with a hint of lemongrass in the reduction sauce, and hoisin-basted duck with polenta. Some dishes are downright clever in their presentation. Not to forget that great view of the harbor.
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BISTRO LE CRILLON
2523 Eastbluff Drive, Newport Beach
(949) 640-8181
French Mediterranean
Chicken cooked in red wine, Dover sole, sauteed Maine sea scallops, and a classic French apple tart are emblazoned in my memory bank. This cute little gathering spot has a lot of French-speaking customers embellishing meals with a bottle or two of the unique wines.
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BLACK SHEEP BISTRO
303 El Camino Real, Tustin
(714) 544-6060
Mediterranean
Culling from countries skirting the sea, chef/owner Rick Boufford regales us with a dozen Spanish tapas, excellent duck and lamb preparations, authentic paella, and a French cassoulet to die for. The backdrop is casually chic and very personable.
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BLUEWATER GRILL
1621 W. Sunflower Ave., Ste. D-50, Santa Ana
(714) 546-3474
Seafood
It’s tough to find a restaurant with a more extensive fresh seafood menu. Dozens of fish are simply grilled and lightly sauced. Shellfish is also abundant. The atmosphere would be at home in Cape Cod. Unpretentious and fairly priced.
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CAF & #201; EL CHOLO
840 E. Whittier Blvd.,
La Habra
(562) 691-4618
Mexican
So famous for so many years. It’s the sibling of L.A.’s nationally acclaimed El Cholo. Connoisseurs coast-to-coast order the green corn tamales. Food is value-priced and true to its Sonoran roots. The freshness factor is their ace in the hole. It is hard to top this quality and taste.
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CAF & #201; TU TU TANGO
20 City Blvd. West, Orange
(714) 769-2222
International appetizers
The entire menu is made up of little plates of amusement,appetizers, if you will,that cover territory from Oriental to Spanish, South-western to Mediterranean. The price is cheap, the quality superb. Atmosphere is that of a starving artist’s loft in Europe. I love it.
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CAF & #201; ZINC
350 Ocean Ave.,
Laguna Beach
(949) 494-6302
American
The culture factor for us wouldn’t be complete without an occasional foray to Zinc for a breakfast or lunch with artists and writers and movers and shakers all a round. This is a restaurant joined at the hip to the psyche of the city.
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CATAL RESTAURANT AND UVA BAR
1580 Disneyland Drive,
Ste. 103, Anaheim
(714) 774-4442
Mediterranean
The downstairs part of the restaurant is Uva, which means “grape” in Spanish. Forty wines by the glass are offered and there’s a large tapas menu. Catal is the upstairs full-service restaurant. Matching the flavors of the Mediterranean-inspired dishes are the vast views of the Downtown Disney promenade.
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CATTLEMAN’S WHARF
1160 W. Ball Road, Anaheim
(714) 535-1622
Steak and seafood
Everything that’s classic about beef and unadulterated seafood is honored. Of course there is some poultry on the menu and things like a shrimp cocktail, but it’s the quality preparations of meat and fish that shine. Unusual and attractive d & #233;cor mimics the library, salons and dining room of a home.
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CELLAR
305 N. Harbor Blvd., Fullerton
(714) 525-5682
Classic French
Start with foie gras or scallops in their shells and transition to steak with B & #233;arnaise sauce or Dover sole, rack of lamb or perhaps a special such as daube of beef (braised over several hours to a rich melange of meat and vegetables). The beautiful setting was designed by Disneyland imagineers.
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CHANTECLAIR
18912 MacArthur Blvd., Irvine
(949) 752-8001
California
Looking every inch like a lavish French country home, this is a fine scenario for well-conceived dishes of food that partake of diverse ingredients. Grilled sea bass, roasted duck, pasta mingling with shellfish will come with only the slightest sauce enhancement, the better to show off the main ingredient.
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CHIMAYO AT THE BEACH
315 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach
(714) 374-7273
Nueva Latina
The restaurant looks like a seaside villa in Mexico and has an oceanfront location. The food is the creation of master restaurateur David Wilhelm. Calamari with a feisty red chile sauce, Caribbean style ribs, oven-baked fresh fish and strawberry Margarita ice cream shortcake for dessert are on my A-list.
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CHIMAYO GRILL
327 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach
(949) 640-2700
Southwestern
Swathed in the colors of a desert sunset and patterned after a Santa Fe-style home, this is casual chic at its best and it adds color to my life. The food is intriguing. Must try items include barbecue salmon wrapped in banana leaves, chile relleno in pumpkinseed crust and whatever New Mexico dish is the special of the day.
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CLAIM JUMPER
3935 Alton Pkwy, Irvine
(949) 851-5085
2250 E. 17th St., Santa Ana
(714) 836-6658
18050 Brookhurst St., Fountain Valley
(714) 963-6711
25332 Mcintyre St.,
Laguna Hills
(949) 768-0662
27845 Santa Margarita Parkway, Mission Viejo
(949) 461-7170
7971 Beach Blvd.,
Buena Park
(714) 523-3227
190 S. State College Blvd., Brea
(714) 529-9061
American
Lots of food at good prices. From beginnings with mining camp design to luxury lodge style today, this chain has taken a giant leap in the right direction, and that includes the food department. Rack of baby ribs, chicken-fried steak, swell salads, chicken potpie and massive desserts are all better than what most of their peers are putting out.
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CLUB GRILL & BAR (Ritz-Carlton Hotel)
1 Ritz Carlton Drive, Dana Point
(949) 240-5008
Creative Continental
This room absolutely oozes private club sophistication. Spinach leaves centered with a chunk of seared foie gras, lobster with Champagne sauce, duck breast with figs, filet touched with a little Merlot and sage and a creamy lemon tart for dessert are but a few of the fine foods I’ve had here.
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CLUBHOUSE
3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa
(714) 708-2582
American
Probably the most expensive restaurant ever constructed in OC, and certainly a gorgeous one. Before ever eating, make sure to take in the beauty of the alabaster bar lit from beneath. Specialties include salmon basted with orange/basil sauce, meatloaf stacked with mashed potatoes, bourbon-glazed pork chops and lamb shank in mustard/shallot sauce.
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DAILY GRILL
957 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach
(949) 644-2223
2636 Dupont Drive, Irvine
(949) 474-2223
American
The menu features traditional breakfast items, classic salads and sandwiches, absolutely delicious lean short ribs (on the menu at certain locations), and other comfort foods like chunky-style meatloaf and chicken pot pie. Money was well spent in making the attractive restaurants look so invitingly casual.
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DAVE & BUSTER’S
71 Fortune Drive, Suite 960, Irvine
(949) 727-0555
20 City Blvd. West, Orange
(714) 769-1515
American
Like dining in a beautiful and secret brick-walled garden in the Deep South. Favorites include ribs and chicken bathed in Jack Daniel barbecue sauce, grilled mahi-mahi, rib-eye steak with mesquite pepper sauce, and tempura shrimp with chipotle/honey dipping sauce. The Dreamy Italian Cheesecake may be the best dessert in the county.
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DINING ROOM
(Ritz-Carlton Hotel)
1 Ritz Carlton Drive,
Dana Point
(949) 240-5008
French California
The place for dress up dining. French chef Yvon Goetz cooks with the world’s best ingredients. Truffles from Europe, freshly picked berries, herbs and other vegetables flown in from Ohio, fresh fish airlifted from the world-famous Rungis chefs’ market in Paris, wild game Scotland and France. You get the idea.
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EL CHOLO CANTINA
4565 Alton Parkway, Irvine
(949) 451-0044
Mexican
Irvine finally got the quality, affordable Mexican restaurant it needed. Part of the famed El Cholo restaurants of L.A. and La Habra that are the darlings of national food publications. The combination plates and a la cartes of real Sonoran food, not to mention the very serious Margaritas, have had it packed from opening day.
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THE ELEPHANT BAR
14346 Culver Drive (at the 5 Freeway), Irvine
(949) 651-6087
English colonial
A dining adventure with just enough English Colonial kitsch and jungle accents in the d & #233;cor to give us smiles. The food is non-threatening, quite good and covers sufficient territory.
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FIVE CROWNS
3801 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar
(949) 760-0331
Classic Continental
Food and utterly charming surroundings vie for attention, not to mention the legendary wine list. Prime rib, roasted duck, pan-seared fresh fish and other traditional entr & #233;es are joined by dishes with more California flourish. One of our very best restaurants.
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FLEMING’S PRIME STEAK HOUSE
455 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach
(949) 720-9633
Steak and seafood
Prime meats take center stage. Steaks, a hefty pork chop (a swell alternative), and lamb are cooked to perfection. Generous side dishes of vegetables greatly enhance meals. Though lush in wood and leather sort of way, there’s a nice friendliness about the place. Arguably the biggest selection of wines by the glass in OC.
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FOXFIRE
5717 E. Santa Ana Canyon Road, Anaheim Hills
(714) 974-5400
Steak and seafood
It’s back to its roots. In the ’90s it had gone very California creative, but now a good chef is serving more classic food again. Though it’s a big place, several small dining areas make the inside seem more intimate. I happen to like dining in the outdoor patio with central fountain.
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FRENCH 75
1464 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach
(949) 494-8444
French bistro
I long for more time to spend here. Sensual interiors replicate a beautiful Parisian bistro of the ’40s. Cassoulet of shrimp with Cognac essence, silky cheese souffle, steamed mussels with a tophat of crisp fries, lobster tart, braised veal in natural jus. It’s not food you’ll find elsewhere. Excellent boutique wines. It’s a trip to Paris for just a few bucks.
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GOLDEN TRUFFLE
1767 Newport Blvd.,
Costa Mesa
(949) 645-9858
Spontaneous international
I picked chef/owner Alan Greeley as one of the two most influential chefs of the last decade in OC. He’s an impassioned genius who cooks Caribbean, European and Asian food of startling beauty and soul-wrenching flavor. He also adores wine and art, both of which make our visits to his adorable bistro even more special.
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GRILL AT
PELICAN HILL
22651 Pelican Hill Road South, Newport Coast
(949) 717-6000
American
The rest of the nation can envy us for having this lovely perch above the ocean where food and service equal the view (thanks to its connection to the Four Seasons hotel). Braised lamb shanks with caramelized vegetables, veal chop with baby artichokes, sea bass with white wine pan sauce are indicative. I have long, long meals here.
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GUSTAF ANDERS
3851 Bear St., Santa Ana
(714) 668-1737
Scandinavian
Touted by Conde Nast magazine as one of the 50 best restaurants in America, this place is all about superb food and clean-lined artistic surroundings. Spinach salad topped with sliced lamb, venison with lingonberry/truffle sauce, Atlantic char with fennel and the famous Princess Cake have a special place in my memory bank.
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GYPSY DEN CAF & #201; & READING ROOM
2930 Bristol St., Costa Mesa
(714) 549-7012
125 N. Broadway, Ste. D, Santa Ana
(714) 835-8840
Bohemian
You are back in lesser Europe. Walls and floors sport Persian-like carpets, cushy couches and club chairs cuddle beside thought-provoking books, a couple plays chess. At an antique table, eat cleverly wrought, unpretentious food of surprising quality. Oh, and drink lots of good coffee and/or healthy fruit drinks.
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HABANA
2930 Bristol St., Costa Mesa
(714) 556-0176
Nueva Latina
Never has there been a place where the music of Cuba’s Buena Vista Social Club was more appropriate. Polished cement floors, hand-daubed walls, wood booths and old photos make you believe you’re in a 1940s Havana time warp. Tuna tartare on plantain chips (tostones), pork osso buco and paella and are mere teasers since the menu embraces the Caribbean as a whole.
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HARBOR GRILL
34499 Golden Lantern St., Dana Point
(949) 240-1416
Seafood
Mesquite-grilled fresh sea-food (straightforward to Cajun to Asian-themed) is the name of the game at this unpretentious harborside restaurant. Everything can be ordered unadorned, but other preparations include halibut with New Orleans gumbo sauce, sea scallops with red Thai curry glaze, swordfish seasoned in Japanese ponzu sauce. It does well what it’s supposed to do.
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HOOK’S POINTE RESTAURANT & WINE CELLAR (Disneyland Hotel)
1150 W. Cerritos Ave., Anaheim
(714) 778-6600
Eclectic American
A grown up restaurant that’s very pretty and in the case of the wine cellar down the ramp, it’s downright beguiling. Children though will feel welcome. Great wines (all $18 per bottle, $4.50 a glass, $2.50 half a glass). Seriously good food includes crispy spring rolls filled with chicken and avocado, chicken with sweet pea risotto and scallops in a saffron perfumed sauce.
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HOUSTON’S
2991 Michelson Drive, Irvine
(949) 833-0977
American
Industrial architecture turn-ed into classy sophistication: massive trestled ceiling topped by wood panels, red leather booths, modern black and blond bar stools marching down the middle of the room, lots of metal trim. Great Cobb salad with big chunks of fried chicken in it, superb burgers, and other commodities like prime rib, braised lamb shank and fresh fish.
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IL FORNAIO
18051 Von Karman Ave., Irvine
(949) 264-1444
Italian
I’ve spent my share of time in this gracious Italian villa surrounded by flagstone terraces and gardens. I regularly crave the lobster ravioli, the lasagne layered with a rich meat ragu, the Florentine steak that’s been marinated in fine olive oil. I also love the regional Italian dinners every month that take us on a tour of culinary Italy. I call it my cool hangout.
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JAMILLAH GARDEN
2512 Walnut Ave., Tustin
(714) 838-3522
Islamic Chinese
An unpretentious but attractive enough room suffices because it is the food here that’s all-important. The Chinese-style loaf of bread is famous for its flavor. The casseroles, slowly simmered to perfection contain lamb, seafood or poultry, all with added vegetables and they are marvelous. There’s also a full menu of Chinese stir-fried dishes with endearing flavors.
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KING’S FISH HOUSE
24001 Avenida de la Carlota, Laguna Hills
(949) 586-1515
Seafood
The building looks from outside and in as though it were a warehouse on the wharf, perhaps in New Orleans. Lots of used brick, retro signs on the walls, booths around the perimeter, wood floors. The menu covers a whole lot of fish and shellfish territory. Sauced or simply grilled au naturel, it’s value-priced, thus their success.
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KITIMA
2010 Main St., Suite 170, Irvine
(949) 261-2929
Thai
One of the cutest little restaurants around, and on our lovlier days, it is just swell to sit outside near the gushing fountain in the courtyard. Just about every Thai dish you’ve ever heard of is served. I like the fact that it’s fired up or not with chiles according to your personal preference. There’s actually quite a lot of finesse in these artistically pleasing dishes.
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LA BRASSERIE
202 S. Main St., Orange
(714) 978-6161
Classic French
One of the legendary restaurants of OC. Step down into the dining room that might have been borrowed from that little hotel you stayed in in France. Dine on salad of mushrooms, sole Veronique, quenelles with lobster sauce, filet with sauce B & #233;arnaise, or roasted duck with Montmorency cherry sauce and understand why it is so beloved.
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LA FAYETTE
12532 Garden Grove Blvd.,
Garden Grove
(714) 537-5011
Country French
All the reasons you love those little bistro hideaways overseas are packaged in this place. Sweet but unpretentious surroundings, a chef/owner who loves his customers and his kitchen, and memorable food. Here, we can add marvelous service. Edmond Sarfati can cook his sweetbreads financi & #269;re, roast duck confit, or cassoulet of meats and flageolet beans anytime.
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LA VIE EN ROSE
240 S State College Blvd, Brea
(714) 529-8333
Regional French
Take one guy from the culinarily rich region of southeastern France, put him in his own restaurant (patterned after a Normandy home, no less) to serve the foods he misses and we end up eating very well indeed. Louis Laulhere goes home regularly and keeps regaling us with a menu that even pulls a French clientele from LA. From seafood with delicate sauces to roasted game to French foods we all know, this is a place that should be experienced.
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LAS BRISAS
361 Cliff Drive,
Laguna Beach
(949) 497-5434
Sophisticated Mexican
The manager, Fouad Ziady, was one of my Restaurateurs of the Year because he knows how to give a high-grossing restaurant soul. Painted by artists from around the world, this beautiful building can nevertheless be a fine dining experience. The food, much of it fresh seafood, is on a higher plateau than most Mexican food you’ve had.
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MAMA ROSE
2346 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa
(949) 650-1949
Family-style Italian
Highly personalized cuisine made from old family recipes handed down to chef/owner Richard Lombardi. This place is cuddly cute. They start you with complimentary orange slices dappled with olive oil. Segue to a pasta (perhaps to be shared) and then chicken Bolognese or rack of lamb. Portions are big; you might not manage dessert.
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MAMMA GINA
251 E. Pacific Coast Highway, Newport Beach
(949) 673-9500
Tuscan
Florentine steak is meat like no other. That, along with freshly made pastas under refined sauces and the finest ingredients such as prosciutto from Parma, results in splendid Italian fare. Ravioli filled with lobster or creamy risotto with wild mushrooms touches my heart any day. The dashing room overlooks the bay and the yachts, and that’s not bad.
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MARRAKESH
1976 Newport Blvd.,
Costa Mesa
(949) 645-8384
Moroccan
I doubt there’s any food more wonderful than a well-conceived b’stilla, an aromatic mixture of cilantro- and lemon-flavored chicken, almonds and a little sugar tucked in puff pastry. From hearty tagine stews and roasted poultry to mint tea poured with great flourish, eating in this richly exotic room is an experience not to be missed.
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MAYUR
2931 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar
(949) 675-6622
Indian
Snug and cute as can be, this is home to refined food made with fresh masalas (mixtures of spices). Some of the meat and vegetable dishes are cooked in the wok and married to the masala at that moment. Meats and seafood roasted in the tandoor oven are marinated in yogurt and spices beforehand allowing for a heady affair between smoke and spice.
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McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S
2000 Main St., Irvine
(949) 756-0505
Seafood
Literally dozens of kinds of fresh fish and shellfish are on the menu, which is printed daily. Luckily, they keep the presentations clean so that the flavor of the sea can shine. No expense was spared in building this mahogany walled beauty resplendent with acres of beveled glass.
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MEMPHIS
2920 Bristol St., Costa Mesa
(714) 432-7685
Roadhouse
This place is cool to the max. A former biker bar not too far beyond that atmosphere, it’s now a magnet for food aficionados. Teardrop tomatoes? Gumbo and greens with andouille sausage? To die for crab cakes? Pizza made on Indian fry bread? The juxtaposition of the food and the backdrop is part of the party. It’s simply marvelous all around.
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MISTRAL
440 Heliotrope Ave.,
Corona del Mar
(949) 723-9685
Proven & #231;al French
The aromas of southwest France have perfumed our table on the occasions we ate redolent Guinea fowl roasted with olives, calamari in a bouillabaisse style broth, sea bass on roasted fennel and lamb with cannellini beans. The friendly auberge atmosphere and this food bring the French here in droves.
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MONDU SUZAY
13931 Carroll Way, Suite A, Tustin
(714) 838-4130
Oriental Appetizers
Mondus are tasty little tidbits, relatives of Chinese dim sum. Examples are braised lamb in a canoe of noodle dough, and spiced chicken or beef or shrimp inside noodle wrappers. There are dozens of delights at this charming little jewel box.
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MORTON’S OF CHICAGO
1661 Sunflower Ave., Santa Ana
(714) 444-4834
Steak and seafood
We got really serious again about eating beef (and lamb and pork chops) when their hefty portions of prime meat seduced us all. Side orders of vegetables and overall big portions enhanced their reputation. Clubby, leather-clad booths add a solid note of refinement.
