A true French sidewalk cafe, with indoor seating as well, has found translation in America a difficult thing. There are plenty that loosely use the term. But to get the soulful feeling that’s ultimately required is more elusive.
I was happy after having my first meal at Caf & #233; Beau Soleil in Fashion Island. Subsequent meals have been increasingly delightful.
We might as well be on some side street in any town, any place on the globe, where French is the first language. There would be no tourists in sight, just a room full of locals who know a good regional meal is waiting.
Here, it happens on many levels. There’s the look and vibe of the little place. Then, there’s the menu that’s crammed with breakfast items and lunch entrees. Finally, as chef and owner Edouard Moyal comes to the table, there’s decided authenticity in his accent. His philosophy is that a cafe like this is something beyond good food. It’s a way of looking at the world, a way of valuing the time spent savoring a rich cup of coffee with friends.
Patio seating is popular as it offers such a good vantage point for seeing the fashionistas of Newport Beach stroll by. Inside is like a magic carpet ride to Europe.
Adorable is a word that comes to mind. There are cute French signs on the walls. One gives the price for a bath,towels are extra. Some signs list amusing old French schoolhouse rules. Photos of “Casablanca” and French villages adorn other walls.
An attractive bar, about 9 feet long, is made of antiqued wood and outlined in zinc. Desserts sit on the end of the bar, each covered with a large glass cloche. I’ve tried about nine kinds of tarts and French cakes touting their proud heritage in looks and silky tastes.
Much of the food here has natural origins. I appreciate the many organic teas and coffees from around the world. Many organic blended drinks also are offered as well as several bottled waters and juices. Beer and wine also are available.
While retaining French soul, the food does gentle segues in certain dishes. There are pasta dishes and sandwiches bowing to various cultures. A long list of salads also takes you on a global tour.
The first menu page is devoted to breakfast. No slouching here with 32 choices. Omelets run the gamut from plain to a broad spectrum of fillings: Maryland crab, sausage and Swiss cheese, chicken and fennel, Black Forest ham and cheese, smoked salmon, prosciutto and to-mato and mushroom ragout among them. You know this is the kind of place where French toast is serious. There are three great variations. Egg dishes come every way imaginable. Even pancake lovers are regaled with several choices.
Move on to lunch, the most popular meal. Imagine 26 sandwiches! Curried egg salad with mango chutney, merguez sausage with tomato and cucumber, Black Forest ham and Gruy & #269;re cheese and Dover sole with arugula have more than pleased me. Served on a variety of breads (the olive bread is awesome), these sandwiches make a fine statement. You’ll love just reading about all the ingredients. Fear not if you like a club or meatloaf sandwich or a burger,they too make a menu appearance.
One of my readers recently asked me where to get a good croque-monsieur sandwich. Everyone should order this classic French version of the ham and cheese (Gruy & #269;re) sandwich with tomato. With a nod to the modern, they also offer an adaptation with Brie cheese and avocado, plus tomato.
Sandwiches come with fries or organic salad. I should mention that the fries are the “real” ones, crisp and perfectly cooked as they are in Europe.
There are two soups: one is the chef’s choice of the day, the other, French onion. The latter is of the long simmered variety topped with a super layer of crouton and cheese. It does everything for the palate and the psyche that it should.
I think we all can manage to be happy with a salad when there are 31 to choose from. All are served in generous portions.
Quiche is found on French tables at all times of the day. There are two here. One is the quiche of the day that has different combinations of savories on different days wandering through the eggy filling. The other is a vegetable low-carb one. Both are served with salad on the side.
That leaves a dozen pasta dishes to reckon with. They too allow enough regional influence to bring you just about every favorite kind of pasta. I have not tried a single one,so far, I’ve been way too intrigued by the sandwiches and salads and those desserts.
Part of this story has roots in the American Rag Cie clothing boutique that sits beside the restaurant. Chef Edouard is a close friend of the owner of American Rag. The first store opened in Northern California and it was decided that a French cafe would be a fine relative to have next door. A partnership was formed.
Los Angeles then provided the impetus for a store and cafe,that one’s called Caf & #233; Midi,on La Brea.
Do yourself a favor and drop in for something quite cute and continental at this restaurant that’s charmingly French at the core.
AT A GLANCE – Caf & #233; Beau Soleil
Address: 953 Newport Center Drive (next to Daily Grill in Fashion Island)
Newport Beach
Phone: (949) 640-4402
Prices: Breakfast entrees $6.50 to $13.95; Lunch items $6.95 to $15.50
Hours: 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily, except Sunday, noon to 7 p.m.
