We’re checking in on some restaurants that have survived for a long time and now are tweaking their concepts or menus to stay current.

Each time I’ve done a Fifi’s Best—and there have been about 50-I choose a theme and try to corral a group of restaurants that fit my chosen topic and that I believe are doing good things for diners. This time I decided to revisit the style and substance of many restaurants that might be called iconic or legendary. The coverage starts on PAGE 17.

As always, I refer mostly to dinner menus, but lunches reflect the forward-thinking menus as well. Many of these restaurants also have brunches that offer yet another way to have fun at the table. Prix fixe menus of two or three courses at very affordable prices are also widely available.

One other thing: As owners and chefs have taken menus to a new notch, it’s nice to discover that they have also refined their wine lists from the mostly California lists of yesteryear to globally inspired wines in a nice variety of price ranges.

Speaking of iconic, we shine the brightest spotlight this time around on the inimitable restaurateur and chef, Pascal Olhats. Our profile of this accomplished man-around-OC is on PAGE 16.

Fifi Chao