This Thursday, one of summer’s most exciting culinary events will take place: a Friends of James Beard Benefit dinner at Vaca, the fascinating Spanish-inspired restaurant in South Coast Metro’s arts district in Costa Mesa.
The fundraising dining extravaganza will start with an al fresco reception featuring 10 amuse bouche tastes followed by a sit-down dinner of seven creative courses paired with wines from the renowned family-owned Spanish wine group Bodegas Torres. It’s happening this week, and I am, as always, so excited that this dining is adding luster and prestige to our dining reputation.
Vaca restaurant has been named to the best restaurant lists by SoCal’s top critics since it opened in late 2015. If you’ve been there, you know the energy, excellence of cuisine and innovative cocktail program that’s complemented by top-notch service. It’s one of the toughest dinner reservations to get in OC.
The odyssey to the opening of Vaca began via the talents of a couple of guys we first met in 2008 when they were hand-selected by chef/restaurateur Charlie Palmer to open his eponymous restaurant at Bloomingdale’s South Coast Plaza. Chef Amar Santana, then in his mid-20s, was a protégé of Palmer chefing at his flagship Aureole in Manhattan and arrived here as Palmer’s local executive chef; GM Ahmed Labbate came from Palmer’s Vegas operations after also working for him in New York City.
After realizing their synergy, the duo decided to strike out on their own. Santana and Labbate opened Broadway by Amar Santana in 2012 on the site of the former Five Feet in Laguna Beach. With that success, they began looking for a second location, which turned out to be in the South Coast Metro location near their original stomping grounds. Vaca is situated in a terrific spot between the performing arts center and the luxury-driven South Coast Plaza.
Hosting a prestigious James Beard dinner, which raises funds to support James Beard Foundation culinary student scholarships and other programs, doesn’t happen often in Orange County. It’s a labor of love and an extensive and expensive undertaking by the host restaurant, which closes to regular business for the night and delivers an over-the-top culinary experience and sizable donation to the foundation.
If you’re a serious foodie—the late James Beard was a “pioneer foodie”—attending a chef-hosted Beard dinner has to be on your bucket list. I’ve attended two previous dinners, memorable by all standards. There’s nothing like the creativity of the offerings and the magic of the night.
Chef Santana, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, the most prestigious culinary academy in the U.S., and a recipient of culinary scholarships, was runner-up on season 13 of Bravo’s “Top Chef.” His extensive menu for this James Beard evening indicates he’s pulling out all the stops. Courses include four imaginative, signature tapas and charcuterie (perhaps with some of the prized Spanish jamón ibérico), strawberry & heirloom tomato gazpacho, slow-baked cod stew with paella broth, lobster paella, and a New York and prime skirt-steak tasting. A trio of desserts make a sweet ending. Wines will be selected to match the food courses.
The all-inclusive price is $350, or $300 for Beard members, and is worth every penny. Call (714) 463-6060 for reservations or visit vaca.com. At press time, Labbate promised a few seats would be reserved for my readers. 695 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa, (714) 463-6060
Choice ‘Midlevel’ Choice
There’s so much going on in hotels these days with all of the variables in dining possibilities showing up. It’s impossible to cover all of the places doing interesting things, but I am finding many facets of Eats in Hotel Irvine appealing. This place speaks to that midlevel dining experience I recently wrote about that we diners are appreciating. It also has the mixed aura of a good-looking, modern pub concept. There’s a happy essence in the vibrant decor, whose centerpiece is a circular bar. I like the indoor/outdoor seating that fits these warm months so well.
The food, with its international hints, is built on the finest personally selected ingredients. Craft beers and a nice selection of interesting wines and signature handcrafted cocktails are there for the sipping.
Since this is a hotel restaurant, all meals are served throughout the day. Breakfast is a plentiful affair, with classics and creative riffs sharing the morning menu. Among the multinational selections the rest of the day are ribs, scallops, Italian dishes, Dungeness crab lettuce wraps, pizzas, cider-roasted chicken, Skuna Bay salmon, steak with duck fat potatoes, and so much more. Sunday Brunch has become so popular that brunch is now also served on Saturday. At lunch or dinner, do not miss ordering one of Orange County’s most impressive burgers: a tender brioche bun slathered with pear jam on one side, stacked with aged white cheddar and a juicy round of meat, herb aioli spread on the other side of the bun, and some bacon draped atop the cheesy goodness. Pretty addictive.
I know that several of my readers meet often for happy hour and meals. Why not, with such good atmosphere and creative small plates at $2 to $4 and full entrees in the $15 to $22 range? Oh, one other important thing: Kids under 12 eat free every evening.
Eats is dishing out tastiness, very likeable prices, swell atmosphere and friendly service. Go once, and I’ll bet you go back. 17900 Jamboree (in Hotel Irvine), Irvine, (949) 225-6780
Deli Still Great at 50
Recently I had a craving for a bowl of rich chicken broth with fluffy, flavorful matzo balls and a tall-stacked pastrami sandwich. Benjies NY Deli, which is proudly celebrating its 50th anniversary in two months, immediately came to mind.
Unfortunately, Orange County no longer has a reputation for good, accessible deli dining. The place that people mention most often when real deli dining is discussed is Benjies in Tustin. We used to have Lindel’s, so good but long gone. Kaplan’s came along with a trio of convenient destinations, but one day they were all shuttered. Then, Jerry’s Famous Deli, from its Los Angeles home base, dazzled us for a while near the Segerstrom Center for the Arts. It was big, brightly lit, furnished with comfortable booths, and had everyone talking.
Jerry’s opened 24/7 at the beginning. Who would come to OC and not know that nobody eats during the night here? So they cut back to more traditional dining hours. It did seem from public chatter that we’d have Jerry’s with its big menu around forever. It still closed in 2012.
What has not closed and proved its mettle is Benjies, where we often find ourselves. On our last foray for a deli fix, it wasn’t too much of a surprise to find one of South Coast’s most admired hoteliers and his wife walk in. Benjies draws from across the county with its friendly demeanor, high-quality food and big menu. Friends we’ve introduced over the years have become loyalists.
As a fun aside, there’s also a warm and charming cocktail lounge in its own room at Benjies. It’s called the K Bar and is furnished with upholstered booths. Great place with a different vibe; the whole menu can be ordered in the K Bar, and they have an afternoon happy hour with reduced prices.
Benjies’ menu covers home-style Jewish favorites, such as matzo ball soup, the best corned beef and pastrami deli-style sandwiches, triple deckers, deli platters, kreplach, a full dinner and breakfast menu with daily and early bird specials. Beyond the highly stacked sandwiches piled with the juiciest, most tender pastrami and corned beef, I have a love affair with the sweet and sour cabbage soup, terrific Nova lox, crispiest latkes, a fine brisket melt sandwich.
The recipe for the cured meats has been the same closely guarded secret throughout all the years, which accounts for the consistency and customer loyalty. Early bird menu, easily the bargain of the county at $13.50 for a complete meal—soup or salad and side of choice—is served 3 to 7 p.m. every day, and in typical early bird format, a different entree is featured daily. Fried chicken, turkey with dressing, grilled filet of cod, liver and onions, spaghetti and meatballs. I can say that it’s impossible to be bored with the food at Benjies. I usually take home some sweet goodies from the fresh daily desserts sinfully displayed as you enter the restaurant. Last time, I augmented them with an order of stuffed cabbage, yet another winner. Didn’t have to cook that evening.
Benjies was originated in 1967 by Stan Weinstein and is now run by Stan’s son and daughter-in-law, Lloyd and Noriko Weinstein. Family pride and consistency show. Benjies is open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner. I’m a happy diner when I slide into one of the booths and anticipate once again what I might order. Reservations are encouraged for parties of six or more. Take-out food is available, and the restaurant caters for all occasions. 1828 N. Tustin Ave., Santa Ana call (714)541-6263
