This is a story of a little boy in Japan who knew what he wanted to be when he grew up, and us food lovers are all the better for it.
Kohachi “James” Hamamori of Hamamori Restaurant-Sushi Bar at South Coast Plaza is our Chef of the Year because he just keeps on dazzling us with his creativeness and his amazing way with sushi and Japanese dishes that make for ironclad memories. His personality also shines through. Talk is widespread about what he does as a sushi master and chef.
One of the best ways to find good places to eat is to research where chefs from our serious restaurants dine themselves. If we can add our own exciting experiences at a restaurant where these chefs gather or keep showing up on their own, it’s a good signal. Add in some raves from print journalists and broadcast personalities, and the certainty of deliciousness is pretty absolute. Hello, Hamamori.
We keep finding out that some of the county’s most admired chefs were at his restaurant again, and again. Chefs want food that is different from what they cook when they find their little bits of time away from their own restaurants. James delivers a unique quality of food for them and for us.
Chef Hamamori, since his childhood on Okinawa, has never wavered in knowing what he wanted. It was and is to delight customers with food. Restaurants have been his pathway.
He was one of the pioneers who brought the revolving sushi conveyor belt concept—popular in Japan—to New York City, way back in 1974 when he opened Genroku Sushi close to the Empire State Building. A decade later, he was here in California thinking of modern ways to approach Japanese cuisine. The evolution became “New Generation” sushi.Â
James worked at Asakuma, a highly regarded sushi restaurant in Santa Monica, where his creative mastery of sushi and sashimi brought fame and praise from Hollywood executives and celebrities.
He crossed paths with restaurateur and businessman Bronnie Lee in 2001, and they formed a partnership to open the first of several WaSa Sushi restaurants. Their aim was to build a restaurant dynasty showcasing the New Generation sushi forged by the innovative, fun-loving Chef Hamamori. That vision ultimately inspired dishes that honored both Japanese culinary traditions and contemporary tastes. James used only the finest fish and fresh ingredients, adding his distinctive sauces and finishing each dish with unique artistry.
And that brings us to the beautiful Hamamori Restaurant-Sushi Bar, which he opened in December 2007 at the behest of Anton Segerstrom, a longtime Hamamori fan. The chef’s mantra: “I have always loved the artistry of creating beautiful food from the best ingredients—the finest, the freshest seafood, the rare. Everything we create is like a signature. It gives me great pleasure to see guests enjoy our dishes and sushi. I can’t imagine doing anything else.” As diners, we like this kind of dedication.
The restaurant embraces the senses with its eloquently contemporary, oceanic-inspired design. A glass entrance opens onto an undulating white ceiling and sculpted back wall, hand-cut crystal drizzle chandeliers, floor-to-ceiling windows, a soft color palate and natural surfaces of travertine marble, onyx and wood. The intimate sushi bar accommodates eight at a 150-year-old bubinga wood counter with a natural edge.
As we settle into this gem, a sense of profound peacefulness prevails. Naturally, James offers his choices in omakase meals from five courses and up. I guarantee that he will keep you fascinated as he surprises with creation after creation. There are all the versions of sushi and sashimi for a la carte dining. There’s a plate here called Sushi Gems in which, like jewels, eight of James’ creations march down the middle of a pristine white plate—among them scallop with yuzu salt and caviar, and his seared yellowtail with kanzuri, garlic ponzu and chervil. There’s magic in foie gras and truffle adorning certain sushi orders. Love the miso-marinated black cod with honey-yuzu sauce; lobster with ginger sauce; asparagus coated with crunchy cracker meal; scallop with caviar; and the Udon Hot Pot. For a side, do not miss the textures and tastes of the Salmon Skin Salad.
This place also has a terrific afternoon happy hour, perfect for resting a bit after all that shopping.
Chef James Hamamori is sustaining the taste buds and recharging the batteries of other chefs from a cross-section of various Orange County restaurants. If you are a chef or restaurateur and haven’t joined the other chefs in hanging out at Hamamori, I’d suggest you update your routine. As the Chef of the Year, James will make you smile and feed you well.
Lunch, dinner, happy hour
3333 Bear St.
South Coast Plaza, third level
Costa Mesa
(714) 850-0880
