Bistro Le Crillon is a small, family-owned caf & #233; in Newport Beach that seems to have no trouble attracting French-speaking customers and the rest of us looking for tastes culled from unique corners of the world.
This used to be called Caffe Nizza when it was first opened in ’96. Now, with the same owners, it has turned from being mostly Italianesque to a French village-style gathering spot.
When it was Nizza, I admired the crusty pizzas running the gamut from a simple topping of sliced tomatoes and cheese to the Proven & #231;al version topped with a mix of ratatouille vegetables (eggplant, tomato, green pepper, parsley, garlic and onions). Even then, some French specialties were poking about on the menu. I relished the croque monsieur: the ubiquitous sandwich of French ham and Gruyere cheese grilled to perfection. There was an occasional meat and vegetable casserole reminiscent of Ni & #231;oise cooking.
Then came the day when owners Chantal Berton de Crillon de Balbes and her husband Diego Ostroski decided they’d redecorate and, in tandem, turn half the menu over to specialties from the region surrounding Nice, Chantal’s native territory.
There are always plenty of people eating al fresco on the little front terrace surrounded by neatly manicured Japanese boxwood. Beyond, there’s a charming small dining room anchored on one side by an appealing espresso and liquor bar. Pale pumpkin walls are the background for the green banquettes and tables covered in colorful Proven & #231;al prints. There’s a marvelous farmhouse-style armoire that holds a hidden surprise: it’s a wine storage locker.
Diego’s enchantment is wines, while Chantal is the maestro in the kitchen. So, as we study the menu and listen to our waiter describe specialties of the day, we also enjoy talking with Diego about the interesting wines nestled in that armoire. Rather than an inventory made up primarily of over-priced California wines (we’ve got a plethora of those these days) there are European boutique wines of immense attraction here, many quite reasonably priced.
It is apparent that Diego is fond of the Pinot Noirs of Burgundy. On this list, they range from little known vineyards at prices we can all afford to the elegant Burgundian wines of top vineyards such as La T & #226;che and Echezeaux. The selection of Ports and Sauternes is also impressive for such a small place.
We recently began one dinner with a 1995 Chateau Suduiraut, which is one of the most respected Sauternes houses in France. Though not as honeyed as a Chateau d’Yquem, this rich, luscious wine happens to be one of my favorites as a match for foie gras at the beginning of a meal,Chantal’s version is a fluffy mousse of foie gras,and for sipping when all food has disappeared from the table.
We like to share the Salade de Fromage de Chevre with some of the hot-from-the-oven bread as a first course. This salad of mixed greens is sparked with chunks of goat cheese and walnuts and seems to do the right thing in readying the palate.
There are many good sandwiches on the lunch menu; each served on either Italian focaccia or French baguette and with a side of salad or pasta. My recommendations: grilled spicy sausage, roasted leg of lamb, smoked salmon or a version of salade Ni & #231;oise on bread.
French entrees total 13. Classic chicken in red wine is delicious and should be ordered atop noodles just as it’s served in France, though mashed potatoes are offered as well. Rack of lamb, roasted in the wood-burning oven, has a nice smoky flavor. Fresh Dover sole is not found everywhere, so order this tender fish here. In a modern twist that provides a unique flavor enhancement, ahi tuna is quickly seared over hot coals then flamed with Cognac. For shellfish, try mussels from Prince Edward Island or the Maine sea scallops (saut & #233;ed in olive oil, butter, garlic and wine). We have not had steak, but pepper steak and a sirloin with wine/shallot reduction sauce are offered.
Desserts are mostly classic French as well: Cr & #269;me br & #369;l & #233;e, Grand Marnier souffl & #233;, mocha cake, tarte aux pommes (apple tart), and a freshly baked & #233;clair filled with a silky cr & #269;me anglaise. Listen up. The definitive one is the & #238;le flottante: egg whites are whipped and poached in mounds in hot milk and served surrounded by a custard cr & #269;me made with the hot milk, vanilla and the egg yolks. It says everything about being French and it is light and not very sweet.
This is a cute little place where anyone who has eaten the food of the French Riviera and Proven & #231;e will again find those bright and happy flavors. You will hear French being spoken around you and that’s a very good sign. I even find myself conversing mostly in French; it just seems so natural here.
SIDE ORDERS
Foxfire in Anaheim Hills has gone from the very creative cuisine that chef Eric Nguyen had introduced the last couple of years to pretty basic steak-and-potato fare, complemented by some fresh-fish dishes. Vegetable and starch dishes are now a la carte.
They’re now calling it a European steakhouse.
A two-course dinner with one vegetable side dish now averages $26 to $39 per person. Add tax, tip and wine and it gets to be a fairly steep tab for Anaheim Hills.
Eric, whose creative dishes I liked very much, remains in the kitchen.
AT A GLANCE
BISTRO LE CRILLON
Address: 2523 Eastbluff Drive, Newport Beach
Phone: (949) 640-8181
Open: Lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday, closed Sunday
Prices: Appetizers $3.99 to $12.50; pizzas $7.99 to $11.99; sandwiches $6.99; French and Italian entrees $6.99 to $20; desserts $3.50 to $6.50
FOXFIRE
Address: Imperial at the 91 Freeway, Anaheim Hills
Phone: (714) 974-5400
Prices: Two-course dinner with vegetable, $26-$39
