It’s refreshing to see restaurateurs help advertise each other’s new venues. In this case, Rich Mead, highly regarded for his former Sage restaurants, sent out positive commentary on Jack Jasper and his Campus Jax restaurant—full name Campus Jax, a mindful kitchen, brasserie & Supper Club. It’s the follow-up to Jasper’s now-shuttered JackShrimp venue.
Campus Jax describes itself as a place mindful of our well-being that is both brasserie, serving hearty dishes and small plates, and supper club—with professional service, soulful food and dinner-house hospitality.
By day, it’s for anyone who wants to eat better at a reasonable price and has time constraints. Evening approaches, and Campus Jax apparently transforms into a dining venue that also features dancing and music.
Menu categories include several Southern-themed items. Fried Green Pickles, Gumbo, Classic JackShrimp and Jambalaya are a few.
There are international “bowls” that reach afar, and some sandwiches that sound quite tasty, too. Who’s going to get there first, you or me?
Rich Mead, I am happy to report, is on track to open his Farmhouse at Rogers Gardens late this spring. Those of us who have long enjoyed his creativeness with farm-to-table food in his previous restaurants are quite anxious.
Rich was one of the forerunners to focus on fresh, local, daily produce, seafood and more in his kitchen and set the standard for other restaurateurs, so we are mentally primed. And being located at Rogers Gardens, such a special place on its own—what a winning partnership. I am predicting that this will be one of the most popular restaurants in the county.
Campus Jax: 3950 Campus Drive, Newport Beach, (949) 261-6270
A True Fish Story
When we went to dinner with friends Norm and Roxanne Checkor at Driftwood Kitchen and Stateroom Bar in Laguna, we were just another table of four for the first part of our meal. Then our table sort of turned into the corner that everyone was staring at, and some nearby diners even started conversations with us. The cause of this was the waiter delivering to our table a very large branzino, slightly curved on the large platter and fried crispy brown. We’d ordered it, but the size was impressive, and it certainly looked delicious. It’s an item on the current dinner menu, and know that it will serve at least six, although the menu says three to four.
People were asking what the branzino was and how it tasted, and we agreed it was one of the best fish preps going: crispy to a fault on the outside and juicier than ever expected inside. We broke the fish in half and demolished the top half, but the bottom half was obviously going home in a doggy bag.
There was, of course, more food that evening and at other meals at Driftwood. Chef Rainer Schwarz has a storied food background honed in a few different countries, and there’s a finesse that runs through his dishes that’s hard to explain, but you know from the tastes and presentations that this is food from a serious kitchen.
From the small plates section, I most often order the Yellowfin Tartare served in the house-made miso and sesame taco shell. But the Mission Fig and Burrata Tart and the Stuffed Squash Blossoms should not be neglected: They are very good. The Grilled Spanish Octopus is also superb.
Main courses that we’ve enjoyed that have been or will be reordered: Lobster Spaghetti; Butcher Steak and Pork Belly (with tasty roasted mushrooms); Butternut Squash Gnocchi; Mary’s Farm Chicken, which comes with a clever side of heirloom tomato and stone fruit salad; Roasted Hamachi Collar; and even a Buttermilk Fried Soft Shell Crab Sandwich. Am I fond of the culinary direction at Driftwood? Yes.
The light and airy dining room cantilevered over the beach makes the ocean waves seem to lap at our toes, thanks to a complete wall of glass. Unrestricted ocean views and remarkable sunsets at dinnertime are another bonus. Driftwood is the definition of comfortable waterfront dining. It’s also a good place for business lunches.
One additional thing I want to mention is the Stateroom Bar. When I first saw the intimacy of this lounge with its cushy seating, the lovely bar that is deliberately subdued rather than in-your-face mod, and a general sense of quiet comfort overall, I knew this was my place for before- or after-dinner drinks. It is reminiscent of the sequestered and sophisticated lounges of earlier cruise ships. Queen Mary in Long Beach comes to mind, and years ago we sailed on a Cunard ship that also had this sort of lounge.
I must admit, there is a fishy ending to this story. As our group of four was picking up our cars from the valet, the couple who had been sitting nearest us was doing the same. The gentleman said that next time, they just had to taste that fish, whereby I asked them if they would be OK taking the untouched half of the fish in our to-go bag. The lady smiled broadly, the gentleman came around the car to shake hands and thank us profusely. You would have thought I gave them a real present.
Everyone should experience the ambiance and the food at Driftwood. If you cannot make it for lunch or dinner, they also serve breakfast and Saturday and Sunday Brunch. 619 Sleepy Hollow Lane, Laguna Beach, (949) 715-7700
Mediterranean Comfort
Byblos Cafe in Orange is a cool little family-run place serving home-style Mediterranean food. It feels as if we are far away in the culture of a Mediterranean country. They make customers feel at home, and the food is much to my liking.
Mediterranean cooking has been declared very healthy by the medical community, but by no measure at Byblos is it missing flavor and flair. This food leaves me satisfied, yet not uncomfortably full like Western food often does.
There’s no way I would pass up the creamy Baba Ghanoush scooped one more time on my bits of pita bread. This is a puree made from roasted eggplant, tahini (sesame seed paste), and finely minced onion if desired. I taught my students to make it in every international class I conducted.
They have a large menu with a broad spectrum of beloved Mediterranean items leaning heavily toward Lebanese-style preparations. Kibbi, Hummus, Falafel, Lamb Shish Kabab, Fattoush Salad (greens and bread pieces), Garlic Chicken, Fish Kabab, Ful Mudammas (delicious fava beans cooked with spices) and much, much more.
I’m a fan of Shawarma—spit-roasted meats, which here are tender and not overcooked as so often is the case. On a plate or stuffed into my pita bread for a Middle Eastern sandwich, it’s satisfying.
For dessert, there is the requisite Baklava, either with walnuts or pistachios. With hot tea, it’s a good send-off till next time. 129 W. Chapman, Orange, (714) 538-7180
Under an Italian Moon
We happened upon Luna Rossa when going to the movies. It’s next door to the theaters at The District, but it was too late for dinner after the movie, so we only looked in and peeked at the menu. A few days later, our friend called and asked if we’d been there. She, family and friends had become fond of Luna Rossa, and so we joined her and another couple one evening.
A good impression was imparted with the complimentary appetizer of polenta, a smooth serving of the Italian version of grits. It was so tasty that I convinced them to sell me a double portion to go.
As the evening unfolded, pizza arrived from the wood-fired oven with a crispy bottom and good toppings. We planned to share several things and ordered Gnocchi with Ragu. On to Lasagne that was terrific and that we’ve reordered on other occasions. Spaghetti came with really great-tasting meatballs. The Risotto with mushrooms—there are many variations on the menu—that we ordered was properly cooked. Veal Scaloppine and Filet of Sole also have been demolished by our forks.
No need to belabor the point and give you dish after dish to consider. Just know that there’s much to choose from. The owner is Italian and follows in the footsteps of her parents—who emigrated from Italy—in running Luna Rossa. She has a soulful cultural stake in this, and it shows.
Put this one on your to-do list. It’s a good stop whenever you happen to be at The District. 2449 Park Avenue (at The District Promenade) Tustin, (714) 259-0861
