More changes and circulating stories in the industry.
• Chef Justin Miller, who has been at Pizzeria Ortica—650 Anton Blvd., Costa Mesa, (714) 445-4900—for 7 years, has spread his wings to co-found OC’s newest brewery, Gunwhale Ales.
Justin and partners JT Wallace and Bobby Fitzgerald can be found hanging out at the brewery, and it might be a fun look-see for those of you entrenched in the current beer craze. Do not worry about the food at Ortica (you did pay attention when I wrote about the great Sunday Brunch didn’t you? And they’ve consistently kept us happy with their signature pastas and pizzas). The kitchen is now being helmed by the sous chef of several years, Colleen Murphy. Gunwhale Ales: 2960 Randolph Ave., Costa Mesa, (949) 393-2537
• Catal restaurant at Downtown Disney has a new chef, Timothy McDowell, taking over from chef Steven Mary, who went to work for Sam Fox, whose Fox Restaurant Concepts portfolio has about 60 restaurants, including two here in OC. This is a fascinating company whose restaurants have whimsical names but have been acclaimed nationwide for their good food and interesting ambiance. Too much info to share here, but it’s worth a Google for you to have a peek at its website, www.foxrc.com. North Italia: 2957 Michelson, Irvine, (949) 629-7060; True Food Kitchen: 451 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach, (949) 644-2400
• Word is that Fig and Olive at Fashion Island is looking to reintroduce itself to the community. There’s a rumor about the restaurant repositioning itself, and it has reached out to some PR companies lately to talk about possibly representing it.
It wouldn’t be the first time that outsiders misjudged our lifestyle here in Orange County. I would like to see it reduce its prices, for one thing. And the bar scene does help a lot in paying the bills, but when it’s a bar mob scene that dilutes my enjoyment of the dining room, I’m voting for a new assessment of what they really want to be. Does anyone besides me also think that the pitch with all the different olive oils being a major factor in dishes could be dialed back? 151 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach, (949) 877-3005
Mixing It Up
Chef Ross Pangilinan, who plated up the artistic cuisine at Leatherby’s Cafe Rouge for the past 7 years, has just opened his own restaurant, Mix Mix Kitchen Bar, in the Santa Ana space vacated by Little Sparrow (and, after that, it was a place called Black Box for a few months).
We’ve dined at Mix Mix already, since my experiences with this chef’s food in the past have been so positive and I was ultra-curious. The atmosphere is casual cafe style, but service is good, and the food is both beautiful to behold—quite cleverly created—and infused with layers of sophistication. This chef is definitely setting a new and highly artistic standard for DTSA food.
We had the Local Goat Cheese Toast, the most unusual piece of toast ever, with strips of seasonal fruit, drizzles of honey, petite herbs and creamy goat cheese in a rather magical quartet. Little croquettes of chorizo and potato appeared. Our Filipino Ceviche combined coconut and lime, avocado, pork cracklings and a hint of Thai chile flavor to the tuna. A chunky piece of Scottish Salmon was yummy in its soft, moist tenderness offset by the crispiest skin ever and surrounded by a delicate hash of butternut squash, carrot and potato, all with the slightest hint of curry. Some slices of tender steak dominated another plate. The finale for us was a layered terrine that was light as a cloud and redolent with little cubes of tropical fruits. Naturally, we did try a couple of the signature house cocktails.
Stop by and discover the libations and dishes that mingle Americana with tidbits of Asian and European fusion. 300 N. Main St., Santa Ana, (714) 836-5158
Two to Tango
Café Tu Tu Tango in Orange is the tale of one restaurant that will become two, and two chefs—father and son—putting some added spin and interest on a prime example of food that’s already fun. The food’s always been cleverly envisioned, and we’ve introduced a lot of people over the years. But all things need updating.
Another restaurant sibling is coming: The new one will be called Tango Cantina, location still under wraps. I will keep you informed as the scene progresses. The current food situation at Tu Tu Tango finds highly admired chef Luis Tzorin and his son collaborating with owner Jim Hall on food presentation, new items and broadened vision of how the happy bohemian atmosphere can be even more enjoyable.
Not to be missed and already in place for some time, the restaurant continues to bring in an executive sushi chef on Wednesdays who is highly creative. It’s just one of many tapas and other food variations that mingle with the art, the music and the slightly starving student vibe.
If you’ve missed this unique tapas-style place called Tu Tu Tango, you’ve missed a very good and happy slice of Orange County dining. Stop by soon. 20 City Blvd. (the Outlets at Orange), Orange, (714) 769-2222
Baron Expands Reach
Chef/owner Franco Barone and wife, Donatella, of Il Barone Ristorante in Newport have been serving us superb Italian fare in their attractive trattoria for a few years now. He was formerly executive chef for many years at Antonello Ristorante in South Coast Plaza Village. A recent business lunch I attended at Il Barone brought forth an Italianesque assortment of charcuterie, a couple of dishes of freshly made pasta, one bathed in a creamy white sauce, the other in a rich meat and mushroom sauce, plus a fine thin-crust pizza and some iconic Italian pastries, with coffee to top it off.
Another family restaurant is now in the works at the Pacific City development in Huntington Beach. It will be operated by Franco and Donatella’s son and nephew but will feature the seriously authentic pastas and flavorful pizzas for which Franco has always been known.
Meantime, the Italian treats are waiting for you in Newport Beach. The Barones also recently opened an Italian bottega, or market, just down from their restaurant there featuring sandwiches, breads, pastries and coffee drinks, plus imported items to eat at home, including pastas and seafood. The “Italian Oreo” is a particularly popular sweet. It’s a great spot to grab an authentic Italian deli-style lunch or morning or afternoon pick-me-up. Look for it in Suite D. 4251 Martingale Way, Newport Beach, (949) 955-2755
With a Splash
It’s difficult to adequately describe, in this truncated form, a new restaurant harboring as much panache as Water Grill, but I will attempt some highlights.
So many of us lamented the loss of Scott’s, the restaurant that was razed to allow the construction of Water Grill. In retrospect, I can understand, because this new restaurant is quite the showpiece, much larger, gorgeous settings in various rooms, and the lounge area unsurpassed in this county. Most important, the menu based on the freshest seafood is proving to be so interesting and delicious. I’ve delved into this one at both lunch and dinner and, like the fish, I’m hooked.
Whenever we go to downtown Los Angeles to the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion, we dine before or after theater at the first Water Grill, which has been close by for years. It’s attractive, and the food has just the right level of sophistication.
It’s even better here; we are the recipients of a much prettier and engaging Water Grill, with seafood that will have you sighing with pleasure. So if you’ve not yet tried it, the time has come.
As you walk down the corridor joining the outside with the interior entrance door, take time to look to the left through the mostly open wall and peruse the sweeping space of the lounge. Serious use of wood meets beautiful seating elements and chandeliers. In the center of the massive space is a seafood bar laden with shellfish galore that is used in many dishes, the most dramatic being the fresh seafood tower. Majorly impressive. The bar tops are unique. One is colored concrete with oyster shells cemented in. Another is made up of squares and rectangles of glistening copper riveted in place.
The dining room is a sea of tables and a front wall with windows that are opened in good weather. Seating along the window wall is in comfortable booths. The kitchen is behind a wall of glass, and its size is impressive on its own.
I sigh myself as I write this, willing immediately to go back and spend more leisurely time with this aura and the chic food. There’s a large representation from the raw bar; I’m betting there are oysters with names you’ve never heard of. A whole range of appetizers speak to me. Uni Toast or Blue Crab Cakes anyone? Nine iced shellfish platters are tempting possibilities. The large selection of entrees is heavy on seafood, but five steak and poultry items can appease the meat eaters.
A majority of the fish is wild-caught. From that group, I’ve put big checkmarks next to some swimmers: New Zealand Cockles, Spanish Octopus, King Salmon, Alaskan Black Cod. Something as casual as Fish and Chips is even done with wild Atlantic cod. How about Dover Sole from Brittany, Live Wild American Lobster, or Pink Bream from New Zealand?
For our recent lunch with serious food friends, we had a lobster roll (hot or cold and stuffed high with lobster), a sliced fresh Tuna Salad that was picture-perfect for a cookbook, and some items mentioned above. If you are a weekend brunch person, they offer egg dishes, quiche, lemon ricotta pancakes and several seafood items. Honestly, this is a definitive dining experience that’s pretty remarkable. 3300 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, (949) 208-7060
