This is the tale of the proverbial “last supper.” We had it, and we were overjoyed for the evening, and then our newfound gem evaporated. Just like that!
“We ” refers to Joe and Barbara DeFranco, our gracious hosts; EE of this paper, Rick Reiff, and his lovely lady, Shari Kurdziel; and Patrick and me. Joe knows his way around a good Italian meal and good wine to complement it. He’d found this brand new restaurant in the Balboa Inn that mimicked a lovely streetside trattoria in Italy and had food fit for the gods. How could we resist when Joe said we must allow him to introduce us to the cooking of owner and chef Vito San Sone, whose name was on the restaurant?
We gathered at the bar for cocktails. Vito, very Italian indeed, came out of the kitchen and greeted Joe and Barbara, who introduced us and, I believe, told Vito to cook to his heart’s content. His love of cooking did not surpass our love for his intellectual Italian dishes. Bruschetta layered with slices of fresh mozzarella and fleshy tomato; cubes of tuna dappled with olive oil; a platter full of the finest prosciutto, sliced paper-thin; penne pasta with delicately smoked salmon in tomato cream sauce; chicken ravioli he’d just made with a lemon-wild mushroom cream sauce, lamb chops (the best ever!), and a dangerously decadent platter of desserts.
With our bottles of red wine, Italian of course, it was wonderful.
As we wound down the long evening, I asked Vito if I could come back and talk with him more about his food. We decided upon midday three days hence. Ordinarily I would just hop in the car and go, but for some reason, on that day, I called the restaurant before I left home. They told me that the day before had been Vito’s last, that the deal collapsed. Seems it had to do with a money backer who had gotten shy and that the escrow could not close.
We, the dining public, are the big losers. This man has talent and I know of six people who are hoping to find him in another kitchen very, very soon. Dreamy food like this just can’t disappear. As soon as I find out where Vito lands, my readers will be the first to know. In the meantime, Vito, call home; no, I mean, call me!
Getting His Irish Up
If I start writing like I have a brogue, it’s because there’s some Irish action ahead that I am sure to partake of. You see, Bill McCormick, the fine Irish co-owner of McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood restaurant in Irvine, is having a party all during the month of November to salute his heritage.
Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday night this month, at 8 p.m., there will be live Irish music in the Pilsner Room. Featured players will include Kevin O’Malley & the Twilight Lords, Nov. 1-3 and Nov. 8, and The Mulligans, Nov. 9 and 10. To add to the festivities, there will be Irish dance and bagpipe competitions, a soda bread bake-off, an Irish pub quiz,and Bill McCormick on hand telling his Irish stories!
Executive chef Joe Gonzales, whose food have gotten high marks from me for a long time now, has created a special Irish pub menu. It includes Guinness Stout beer-battered fish and chips, McCormick’s Irish stew served with Irish soda bread, shepherd’s pie, braised lamb shank and corned beef sandwich with fries. Prices range from $5.95 to $9.95 for the food. The laughter is free.
California Caf & #233; Closes
The fallout from a deepending economic downturn has hit one more restaurant chain. Last week, the doors were permanently locked on the California Caf & #233; at the Shops at Mission Viejo, after only one year. They tell me the numbers were far too low. This corporation also has closed a California Caf & #233; in Georgia and one of its Alcatraz Brewing operations in Denver. The company would like to relocate this local restaurant if a more-trafficked location at the right price can be found. Meantime, the employees are scrambling to find other jobs in an already stressed industry.
Syrah Dinner at Fleming’s
Que Syrah, Syrah. The tasty little winemaking grape native to the Rhone River region of France, and also known as Shiraz to the Australians, is going to be the star of the party at Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar in Newport Beach on the evening of Monday, Nov. 12 at 6:30 p.m. I love Syrah; good thing, since it’s the fastest growing varietal right now and I assure you, given the quality of this food- and wine-matching, I will be at one of the tables.
The evening will begin with tray-passed hors d’oeuvres including sesame-ginger ahi tartare on pita triangles and foie gras on potato crisps served with a 1993 Seppelt Sparkling Shiraz from Southeast Australia. On to a salad of spring greens topped with blue cheese vinaigrette and sun-dried tomato relish accompanied by a 1998 Fess Parker Melange de Rhone Rouge from Santa Barbara County. Next, a course of shredded duck rolled in a chervil-perfumed pancake topped with dried cherries and a shiraz-butter sauce will be accompanied by a risotto cake and a 1998 Penfolds Shiraz Coonawarra Bin 128 (there has been lots of good press for this wine). For the main course, guests will dine on sliced, aged prime tenderloin with black peppercorn sauce served with turned potatoes and baby carrots. This will be paired with a 1999 Paul Jaboulet Aine Les Jalet from Crozes-Hermitage. Topping off the meal will be a chocolate pecan tart served with an Australian Penfolds Grandfather Tawny Port from the Barossa Valley.
Syrah can be made in a variety of styles, which gives it added interest. Syrah is grown around the globe and can range in intensity from light to full. This event offers an opportunity to try several styles.
