SUMMER IN THE CITIES
Top Chefs Roll Out Suggestions for Warm-Weather Dining
By FIFI CHAO
Summer and backyard barbecue time is here. But for those days when you want to eat out, there are restaurants, menu items and wines that also fit in with the season.
Following is a selection of restaurants where summertime dining can be very nice, indeed.
In the past, when I gave suggested menu items to order and wines to match, the feedback was very positive,many of my readers said they liked having some dining direction before going to the restaurants.
So I’m using some of that format again to guide you to some good summertime wining and dining experiences.
I’ve discovered interesting dishes on my own that I feel fit the warmer season. In other instances, menus have been seasonally changed and the chefs have provided their own suggestions from their menus.
All of the restaurants have a good track record with me.
An absolute must this season is the Canyon Lodge American Grill, now under the ownership of the Montage Resort & Spa. The chef is doing some terrific food and you should experience it.
Another new restaurant is casual and cute, just the thing for unpretentious but delicious sandwiches, soups and salads, and fine desserts. It’s Mustard Delicatessen at the corner of Newport Coast Drive and San Joaquin Hills Road at Newport Coast.
This is Mustard’s second location,the other is at Jeffrey Road and Alton Parkway (in the Gelson’s market) in Irvine.
The food is the same in both locations,absolute top quality,and the sandwiches are so cosmopolitan, completely unlike anything else around. Boar’s Head meats are used, along with Il Fornaio bread. The freshest produce and artisanal cheeses are the norm.
Trust me when I say that one visit turns you into a habitu & #233;.
We are so fortunate to live in beautiful Orange County. It’s even luckier that we have so many fine restaurants in which to socialize and continuously expand our culinary horizons.
I hope that you will find as much pleasure dining in the restaurants that I’ve featured in this issue as I do.
Please, join me at the table.
ANTONELLO
3800 Plaza Drive
Santa Ana
(714) 751-7153
Chef: Franco Barone
It’s as beautiful as the day it was built, but it’s getting ready to celebrate its 25th anniversary in October.
Nostalgia for places that look like this,drop-dead charming village squares in Italy,overcomes me when I am at Antonello.
No other restaurant looks like Italy’s stone- and brick-fa & #231;aded streets with various shops, where locals shop and gather for refreshments. Yet this restaurant still sparkles with a scaled down version of that look.
Owner Antonio Cagnolo was brought up in one of the darling little cities in Italy’s Piemonte region and he gave himself and us a slice of his hometown to look at. And he hired a fantastic chef to bring us food as authentic as that d & #233;cor.
Chef Franco Barone has cooked for former President Clinton, Ben Affleck and Nicole Kidman, to name but a few of the hundreds of celebrities that have dined at Antonello in the 13 years he’s headed the kitchen.
He has so many culinary awards, it would also make for a very long list. To shorten the story: There was a family restaurant in Franco’s childhood in Italy and he worked at a score of famous kitchens on the way to cooking his marvelous Northern Italian cuisine here.
When there, try on these special dishes. Appetizers: carpaccio of cured salmon, shrimp, scallops and octopus drizzled with lemon and extra virgin olive oil, large grilled prawns with fresh herbs and lemon/olive oil or the trio of antipasti consisting of thin slices of prosciutto di Parma, Franco’s homemade salami (a culinary delight for sure), Buratta mozzarella, and chunks of white truffle cheese.
Entr & #233;es: chicken Milanese that’s pan-seared with parmesan cheese, roasted veal chop (from a free-range animal) in morel and chanterelle mushroom sauce and lamb chops draped in shallot, brandy and rosemary sauce. Desserts: cr & #269;me br & #369;l & #233;e or homemade sorbets with fresh fruit.
The wine list here is serious, as is the attitude about matching wines well with your food. There are 400 wines labels from five countries, sufficient to satisfy all of us.
Several wines are worthy of matching with all of the above. They include the 2002 La Scolca Gavi di Gavi, the really outstanding 1997 Casanova delle Cerbaie Brunello di Montalcino Riserva wine or the delicious 2001 Tenute Ghizzano Nambrot.
Also consider these reasons for summer dining at Antonello: pre-theater meals with free transport to the Performing Arts Center and South Coast Repertory, to attend the cooking classes and many special functions the restaurant offers.
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BAYSIDE
900 Bayside Drive
Newport Beach
(949) 721-1222
Chef: Paul Gstrein
This elegant restaurant overlooking Newport Bay, founded in 1999 by the Ghoukassian family, is so well-suited to summertime dining.
It’s airy and bright by day with the light streaming in all those windows and romantic and lovely by night. The garden-like patio room is particularly enticing at this time of year, given its generous dose of decorating beauty. The cheery notes extend to the interior of the building where interesting art, relaxingly sophisticated seating arrangements and feeling of being just the right place to be at the moment are cornerstones of the d & #233;cor.
The duet of dining spaces featuring Brazilian cherry wood floors and soaring ceilings is divided by that gorgeous bar and show-stopping steel wine tower built in Italy.
The award-winning contemporary Amer-ican cuisine is downright seductive in taste and presentation, thanks to chef Paul Gstrein who has headed this kitchen since the opening and was with Bayside’s sister restaurant, Bistango, for 10 years before that.
Paul was born in Austria and cooked his way to America via some of Europe’s finest restaurants.
Here are the chef’s suggestions from the & #341; la carte menu. Appetizers: tiger prawn “martini” (I think it is the style setter of all shrimp cocktails), marinated cantaloupe and Parma prosciutto with roasted pistachios and the layered vine-ripened tomatoes with rounds of artisanal fresh mozzarella.
Entr & #269;es: wild mushroom-crusted roasted Alaskan halibut with Riesling sauce, slow-roasted double-cut pork chop with ginger sauce and exotic mushrooms, medallions of venison loin with gnocchi and California nectarine. Dessert: Tahitian vanilla cr & #269;me br & #369;l & #233;e, warm California nectarine tart, assorted sorbets with Grand Marnier-infused fruit soup.
There are 500 wines by the bottle, 50 half-bottle selections and 50 wines by the glass on the wine list. That should be enough to satisfy us.
Suggestions: 2000 Corton-Charlemagne Remoissenet, Kistler 2000 Les Noisetiers Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, 2002 E. Guigal Condreiu, 2000 Nickel & Nickel Stelling Napa Cabernet, 2001 PlumpJack Estate Napa Cabernet and 2001 Duckhorn Napa Valley Paraduxx.
Other very important summertime notes: live music every night; Sunday brunch with free-flowing champagne and the Latin and Brazilian music of the Bahia Boys at $22.95 per person; tapas menu everyday 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. for $4.95; and late night dining, perhaps on the terrace, with half a bottle of wine.
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BISTANGO
19100 Von Karman Ave.
Irvine
(949) 752-5222
Chef: Javier Montoya
It’s a legendary restaurant by now, having been founded in 1987 by the Ghoukassian family. Bistango is a gorgeous place and perfect for all seasons.
It’s hard to top the sophisticated, cutting edge gallery d & #233;cor that blends right into the cosmopolitan European restaurant stylishness around which everything resonates. A curator changes the entire art collection on a regular basis, giving us more cultural reasons to visit the restaurant often.
Chef Javier Montoya has been in this kitchen since the restaurant’s inception. He’s integrated all his skills culled in other well-known kitchens and provides an eclectic menu that always remains understandable and pleasing while being intriguing.
The following dishes hark of summertime dining.
Appetizers: tomato gazpacho with Kumamoto oysters, gravlax with cucumber, seared diver scallops atop sticky rice with mango vinaigrette. Entr & #233;es: risotto with sweet white corn and pancetta-wrapped tiger prawns (this dish is awesome), roasted rosemary chicken on sun-dried tomato polenta, grilled swordfish with lemon risotto. Desserts: pan perdu with strawberry compote, key lime tart with raspberry sorbet.
The wines always have been reasonably priced. There are wines that go from inexpensive to seriously costly, of course. However, unlike many other restaurants, restraint is shown by the owners in mark-up.
In all, there are more than 300 selections on the wine list.
Here are a few to go with the foods mentioned above: 2001 WillaKenzie Estate Pinot Blanc from Oregon’s Willamette Valley (a really refreshing and mouth-filling summer wine), 2000 Simi Sendal Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc, 2002 Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio from Italy, 2001 Tori Mor Olsen Vineyards Pinot Noir from Oregon (I love this wine), 2002 Kistler Sonoma Coast Les Noisetiers Chardonnay, 2000 Qupe Bien Nacido Hillside Syrah, 1997 Burgess Napa Valley Enveiere Cabernet, Veuve Cliquot NV Yellow Label Ponsardin Champagne (one of the best value fine champagnes made), and Chateau Rieussec Sauternes from Bordeaux.
Bistango has dancing and live music nightly, a revolving for-sale art gallery that is part of the d & #233;cor, happy hour Monday-Friday with complimentary pizza and a three-course pre-theater menu nightly served until 6:30 p.m.
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BLACK SHEEP BISTRO
303 El Camino Real
Tustin
(714) 544-6060
Chef: Rick Boufford
The married team of Rick and Diana Boufford bought this restaurant from the original owners in 1989, putting their mutual management, service, cooking and wine expertise to work in a way unlike any other couple in OC.
To go to Black Sheep Bistro is to be charmed, to be welcomed as if you were family, to be cared for in a very special culinary way and to become an instant habitu & #233;.
That is if you truly care about lovingly prepared and uniquely delicious food, and love finding and discussing amazing wines with friendly restaurateurs like the Bouffords.
Oh, and the very moderate pricing gets us excited too.
The ambiance is like an embrace from an old friend. Uncomplicated, just pretty enough, like a beloved little place one might find in a local neighborhood somewhere across the sea. Life is slower and more comforting here.
I have such deep respect for the Bouffords and their culinary work that this was my Restaurant of the Year pick in 1999.
The chef is Rick Boufford himself. Diana makes sure you are content with your food and wine during the evening.
Rick comes into the dining room from time to time, bubbling with enthusiasm. And what does he cook? Food marches its way around the Mediterranean Sea, as do many of his wines.
Expect to encounter French- and Spanish-Mediterranean dishes: catalan specialties with a touch of Proven & #231;al and Tuscan on the menu as well.
Here are the dishes Rick recommends when you end up there. Appetizers: mushrooms Jerez (infused with garlic, herbs and sherry), an assortment of Spanish sausages and crispy confit of duck wings with spicy potatoes.
Entr & #233;es: Borrego-D’Agnello-D’agneau comprised of lamb cooked three ways (Spanish style loin, grilled Italian style chops with herbs and braised French style in onion essence), Rick’s favorite called Gascon Grill (a duck breast, half a lamb loin and half a N.Y. steak perfumed with olive oil, garlic and fresh herbs) and the French/Mex shrimp with a spicy cilantro aioli.
Dessert: last year they were recognized for their Italian sundae, so it belongs here, as does Diana’s favorite,profiteroles packing a big scoop of the creamiest vanilla bean ice cream, topped with a rich in-house bittersweet chocolate sauce.
We first knew Rick when he was a sommelier in the mid 1980s,a young kid who had an encyclopedic knowledge of world wines. Only later did we discover his cooking talent.
Talking to him about the 250 wines on the list that span 11 countries is enlightening. Here are the wines he recommends: 2001 Jean Leon Terrasola Syrah from Spain, 2002 Au Bon Climat Chardonnay from Santa Barbara and 1999 Tardy Crozes Hermitage from the Rhone Valley in France.
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BLUEWATER GRILL
1621 W. Sunflower
Santa Ana
(714) 546-3474
630 Lido Park Drive
Newport Beach
(949) 675-3474
Chef: Brian Hirsty
These sister restaurants are as dedicated to fresh seafood as you’ll find, meaning that menus are printed daily.
The Newport restaurant was founded in 1996, with the South Coast restaurant following in 1999. They both have a classic fish house ambiance. There’s lots of wood, plenty of windows, unpretentious seating,great hints of New England seafood restaurants.
Chef Brian Hirsty has been with the restaurants since their inception. He honed his skills with Marriott International Inc. for several years before deciding to work for hands-on restaurant owners Jim “U” Ulcickas and Richard Staunton.
Brian and Jim’s suggested menu items all have been tasted by me. They’ve done well in guiding you.
Appetizers: coconut shrimp with mango salsa (so downright delicious), Prince Edward Island black mussels and seared black and blue bluefin tuna sashimi with pickled ginger and wasabi (love it). Entr & #233;es: crispy Maryland soft-shell crab with lemon caper beurre blanc, local harpooned Catalina swordfish (either broiled or blackened) with mango and ruby red grapefruit salsa or their famous clambake.
The Maine lobster clambake consists of chowder, lobster, clams, corn on the cob, red potatoes, butter and, naturally, a bib. Desserts: wild Maine blueberry cobbler or the peppermint stick hot fudge sundae.
There are 65 wines on the list, representing six countries; they are quite sufficient to match each item on the menu.
Here are some of Jim’s favorite wines that are good for sipping or with food this balmy season and his comments about each: 2002 Hogue Johannisberg Riesling from Washington (“great with oysters”), 2002 Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand (“huge fruit but not sweet; great with the swordfish”), 2002 EOS Paso Robles Chardonnay (“our friends and locals, the Arciero family, own this vineyard; solid chard that is not a rip-off”), 2002 Marques de Riscal, Rueda Blanca from Spain (“it’s like a sauvignon blanc”) and the 2001 Babcock, Santa Ynez, Pinot Noir (“incredible with any blackened fish”).
These wines all range in price from $20.50 to $36.
Special thoughts: Consider bringing your pet dog to dinner as they are welcome on the patio. There are two great patios at the South Coast Plaza location; a guest dock and patio in Newport. The Newport location has live music Friday and Saturday evenings.
Ride the Dinner Coach free to the Performing Arts Center after pre-theater dinner at South Coast.
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CAT & THE CUSTARD CUP
800 E. Whittier Blvd.
La Habra
(562) 694-3812
Chef: Creed Salisbury
Creed Salisbury’s family founded The Cat, as it is lovingly referred to by customers, in 1979.
Chef Creed has been spearheading the restaurant and manning the kitchen for 17 years. He trained in some famed kitchens in years past. The restaurant originally resembled an old English pub, but has since evolved into a wonderfully cozy and warm replica of a European inn.
The food is contemporary California cuisine with some traditional dishes that remain favorites.
Following are the chef’s recommendations for summer dishes. Appetizers: crab cake with pink grapefruit beurre blanc, shrimp tempura with sweet mango sauce, and almond-coated goat cheese with sun-dried tomato/garlic cream sauce.
Entr & #233;es: North Atlantic salmon with dried apricot and balsamic beurre rouge, Maple Leaf duck breast with Grand Marnier orange sauce and grilled filet mignon in a blackberry and cassis reduction sauce.
Desserts: bread pudding with a duo of berry and orange sauces, lemon tart with caramelized blackberry and chantilly cream topping and tri-color mousse (three layers: dark, medium and white Valrhona chocolate).
The Cat has about 400 wines available. Roughly 90% of them are domestic (California) with the remainder representing six countries.
Try these with your summer meals: Spottswoode, Napa 2001 Sauvignon Blanc (particularly with the crab cake and shrimp tempura); Etude 2001 Carneros Pinot Noir (suited well to the duck and salmon); and the Lail 2001 Napa Valley Blueprint (58% merlot, 42% cabernet) is ideal with the filet mignon.
The optimal summer dining spots at The Cat would be the outdoor patio that is styled like an English garden or inside in the beautiful room that recalls a garden conservatory.
Fun facts: Favorite summer cocktails are the infused vodka/pineapple martini, the old classic Moscow Mule and the famous Pimms Cup (served with a fresh wedge of cucumber).
Cocktails and appetizers in the pub area go great with live jazz Tuesday through Saturday evenings.
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CATAL
1580 Disneyland Drive (Downtown Disney)
Anaheim
(714) 774-4442
Corporate chef/Catal chef: Bret Thompson
Catal was founded in 2001 by renowned chef Joachim Splichal.
This is part of his Patina Group, which includes 17 restaurants and the recently acquired Mondavi Food and Wine Center in OC that has been turned into Priv & #233; Catering under his umbrella organization.
Bret Thompson, who was my Chef of the Year pick in 2001, the only time I have chosen a chef within a year of a restaurant opening, oversees the terrific Mediterranean-style cuisine that is tinged with California creative thoughtfulness.
We like Catal so much that we’ve gathered a group of friends on three occasions to enjoy some food-and-wine matching here, and my husband Patrick and I have dined on our own many times.
The easygoing but very attractive Mediterranean country style ambiance features plenty of wood, unobstructed views of Downtown Disney’s promenade and a subliminal feeling that you want to sink in and stay awhile. It has a nice balance of being classy, yet unpretentious.
Here are a few menu suggestions from Bret. Appetizers: heirloom tomato salad with basil leaves and lemon oil; composed salad of manchego cheese, arugula, red apples, dates, walnuts and pistachio vinaigrette; and smoked sturgeon and asparagus salad.
Entr & #233;es: tiger prawns poached in truffle butter with cheese tortellini, coffee-crusted lamb rack with natural lamb jus and grilled beef filet surrounded with garlic and cheese mashed potatoes, spinach, beer-battered onion rings and portobello mushroom sauce.
Desserts: peach cobbler for two with homemade vanilla ice cream, peanut brittle cup with rum-marinated pineapple and a completely refreshing coconut sorbet dappled in Myers rum syrup.
A quartet of white wines from Catal’s international list goes well with your summer meals: 2003 Antinori Orvieto Classico Campogrande from Italy; 2003 Nobilio Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand; Schramsberg Blanc De Noir NV California sparkling wine; and 2000 Francois Mikulski French Mersault. For red wine, try the Justin 2001 Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon.
For a menu that’s more heavily inclined to tapas, pizzas and a brace of very unpretentious entr & #233;es, not to mention its own clever wine list, there’s the Uva Bar that makes up Catal’s downstairs patio and sidewalk space.
This is an interesting place overall, full of flavorful insights and providing summertime people-watching at its best.
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THE CATCH
1929 State College Blvd.
Anaheim
(714) 935-0101
Chef: Craig Rouse
This restaurant that’s dedicated to fresh seafood and prime aged beef was founded in 2002 by siblings Joe, Peter and Michele Manzella.
The three also own TAPS Fish House & Brewery in Brea that first proved their serious culinary intentions.
Chef Craig Rouse is a graduate of San Francisco’s prestigious California Culinary Academy. He spent 15 years with Scott’s Seafood before joining the Manzellas.
We count on Craig when we’re in the mood for food we recognize but with distinct flavors. He has a way with sauces that is unique and special.
The polished ambiance here is reminiscent of a downtown New York steak and chophouse. There’s an intimate oyster bar, an unpretentious cocktail bar and comfortably decorated dining rooms.
Inviting private rooms for special occasions, including the Diamond Court, and gardenesque courtyard provide added ambiance. This restaurant has become one of the hottest dining spots in Anaheim with its close proximity to Angel Stadium of Anaheim and Arrowhead Pond.
The chef suggests the following summertime foods from his menu. Appetizers: coconut tempura prawns, crab-stuffed mushrooms and seafood chowder. Entr & #233;es: fresh Alaskan halibut, miso-caramelized Chilean sea bass, and the 20-ounce prime rib eye steak. Desserts: bananas Foster, cr & #269;me br & #369;l & #233;e and chocolate trilogy.
There are 240 wines from eight countries on the wine list that has earned the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence.
Some of the wines that match summer dining well: 2002 Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc; 2000 Chalone Pinot Blanc; 2001 Patz & Hall Hyde Vineyard Pinot Noir; 2000 Trimbach Gew & #252;rztraminer (one of my all-time favorite wines); and 2000 Ponzi Reserve Pinot Noir.
A few fun facts: The Rally Monkey Martini is the most requested cocktail,made of Malibu rum, Godiva white chocolate liqueur and cr & #269;me de banana. On game days, the 20-cent hot wings (10, 20, or 30 to an order, served in their now famous swampfire wing sauce with chilled vegetable sticks and homemade blue cheese dressing) also are popular.
It’s a fun and tasty place with such a comfortably stylish d & #233;cor.
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CLUBHOUSE
3333 Bristol St.
Costa Mesa
(714) 708-2582
Chef: Scott P. Luebcke
The restaurant will celebrate its fifth anniversary in August. It is part of the Clever Ideas group in Chicago.
James Hall, the very friendly managing partner here, does a fine job of making sure his operation is running smoothly and that diners are adequately accommodated in an atmosphere meant to feel like a deluxe private club.
Most of my readers undoubtedly have seen this gorgeous place. If not, allow me to inform you that it is replete with a sexy under-lighted bar (one of my favorite places in OC to eat a meal at the bar), custom furnishings and a grand staircase leading to the main upstairs dining room and lush banquet rooms.
Untold yards of French velvet in luxe jewel tones hang at the two-story-high windows and cover the dining room chairs. There’s a superb patio on the upper level as well and a Southernesque terrace on the lower level.
The menu represents traditional American cuisine: high quality steaks, fresh seafood, pastas, salads, signature sandwiches and desserts made in-house.
Chef Scott P. Luebcke graduated with honors from the Chicago Culinary Institute. He first cheffed at the Rum Jungle in the Mandalay Bay Resort, then served as executive chef of the Trophy King Lodge in Alaska before coming to The Clubhouse.
Scott and Jim gave me these suggestions for your summertime dining pleasure.
Appetizers: sashimi of ahi tuna, sweet ginger calamari and flaming spinach/artichoke dip. Entr & #233;es: halibut Florentine, salmon with orange/basil glaze and bleu cheese stuffed filet mignon (wonderfully done in the old European tradition).
Desserts: fresh peach/blueberry fruit cobbler (hard to find a real cobbler better than this one) and banana cream pie with caramelized bananas. (I love banana cream anything and this version is nothing short of heavenly.)
Let’s talk wine. You have 100 wines on the list to choose from spanning five countries.
Here are Jim’s picks to match the aforementioned dishes: 2003 Ferrari-Carano Sonoma Fume Blanc to pair with the halibut, 1999 Sterling Winery Lake Napa Valley Pinot Noir goes nicely with the salmon and 1996 Chateau Montelena Napa Cabernet Sauvignon is a good pair with the bleu cheese filet mignon.
Other enticements: Martini Madness on Thursdays (try the Pomagranitini, the martini with antioxidants); a live jazz trio also on Thursdays from 7 p.m. to 11 p.m.; and on the first Friday of each month, a complimentary buffet from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m.
* * *
EL ADOBE
31891 Camino Capistrano
San Juan Capistrano
(949) 493-1163
Chef: Palemon Sanchez
The restaurant sits in a Historical Landmark building that dates to the 1800s, though it did not serve as a restaurant until 1948.
The Fred Harvey Co. of Chicago bought the property in 1955. We all became more aware of this restaurant when President Nixon enjoyed the Mexican cuisine whenever he was at the Western White House in San Clemente.
In April 2003, ownership passed on to R.J. O’Neill, Tony Moiso, Gilbert Aguirre and local restaurateur Steve Nordeck.
Steve has repositioned the restaurant’s food and given back the quality ingredients it deserved. In the sprucing up of the building in the 2003 changeover, the architectural integrity of the interiors was saved, just as the building outside keeps its cultural fa & #231;ade.
Thus the old adobe-style warmth of tiles, stucco and wood beams still integrates with period upholstery and artifacts inasmuch as the newly redecorated spaces also now enjoy additional antique furnishings that complement the California-Mexican ambiance.
Chef Palemon Sanchez oversees a kitchen that’s cooking a casual form of Mexican steakhouse fare. The menu is big, offering every Mexican dish we know well.
He suggested you try these dishes. Appetizers: classic Mexican shrimp cocktail, grilled artichoke and traditional quesadilla. Entr & #233;es: rib eye steak seared on the mesquite grill, fresh halibut and carnitas (the pork is just terrific, slowly cooked until it’s unbelievably tender and flashing megawatts of flavor). Desserts: Capistrano flan (creamy, delicious and appropriately squiggly), churros with caramel sauce and mudd pie.
The wine list is not a novel of labels, but encompasses a nice collection of wines that do match this style of food.
Steve feels the following wines are good selections. Edna Valley Vineyards Chardonnay, Kendall Jackson Chardonnay and Clos du Bois Merlot. (The restaurant was updating the wine list to some current releases, thus there are no vintage dates here.)
Other notes of interest: Friday and Saturday evenings, and for Sunday brunch, which is $11.95 to $20, there’s live mariachi music.
Seating on the garden veranda and in the Las Flores room is romantic; the lounge has intimate seating and a lovely antique bar.
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FIRST CABIN
Balboa Bay Club & Resort
1221 W. Coast Highway
Newport Beach
(949) 645-5000
Chef: Josef Lageder
This restaurant, open to the public, was launched in May 2003 to coincide with the opening of the 160-room resort.
It shares the same bay front address as the historic and private Balboa Bay Club, a landmark since 1948. The property was just given the International Star Diamond Award, recognizing hotel properties and restaurants deemed to represent the pinnacle of quality.
Austrian-born chef Josef Lageder, with a lengthy list of culinary accolades to buoy him, joined the Balboa Bay Club & Resort team last year.
We’ve wandered through a lot of his fine food in this dining room, which takes full advantage of the water views and the multimillion-dollar yachts docked outside the windows. The room itself is sedate and relaxing, a scenario of understated elegance.
There also are al fresco dining tables, perfect for these balmy months. Piano music accompanies dinner dining.
Josef’s food is very California influenced, but has a continental flair. He maintains a symbiotic relationship with the abundance of fresh, local ingredients and artisanal foods that are available, which no doubt accounts for the marvelous tastes we are afforded; the beautiful presentations of the food also enhance the dining experience.
The following menu items seem appropriate for the warmer season. Appetizers: traditional beef tenderloin tartare with caper aioli and crispy baguette crostini, warm potato pancake with smoked salmon and sour cream plus chives and caper berries and the very refreshing chilled gazpacho of vine-ripened tomatoes.
Entr & #233;es: saut & #233;ed John Dory on preserved lemon risotto and artichokes (this should be on your “absolute must” list), pan-fried ruby red trout stuffed with rock crab (a rich refinement that is perfectly light dining) and classic ch & #226;teaubriand for two that is carved tableside with sauce b & #233;arnaise because it represents both a fine beef preparation and a nostalgic item that always pleases (divine for romantic occasions).
Desserts: berry mousse torte with mango and raspberry coulis and the pairing of vanilla bean and passion fruit cr & #269;me br & #369;l & #233;e.
The 250-label wine list covers six countries. Consider ordering these: 2000 Newton Viognier with the John Dory, Comte 2002 La Fond Sancerre from the Loire with the trout and 1999 Miura Mitsuko Vineyard from Carneros with ch & #226;teaubriand.
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FIVE FEET
328 Glenneyre
Laguna Beach
(949) 497-4955
Chef: Michael Kang
Michael Kang brings more than cooking skill to his restaurant.
The charities in this county owe a very large debt to him for his help in raising funds. They know his track record in organizing chef participants.
Michael also has a wicked and wonderful sense of humor and it shows itself in some of his menu descriptions. He founded Five Feet in 1985 and has served since inception as “Executive Chef and Chief Bottle Washer” (his own description).
He always has regarded art and culinary design to be the visual complement of a dining experience. Michael takes pride in helping launch or boost the careers of various artists.
Michael’s philosophy: “The restaurant walls have provided a canvas for local talent and a visual feast for our diners. And as the palette of art changes, so does our menu; the cuisine creates cutting-edge culinary art for guests to experience.”
The food is described as contemporary California Chinese cuisine with French influence.
Delicious foods with happy names that Michael suggests you try include the following. Appetizers: Crabby Mood, which is a fresh soft shell crab, cooked crisp and accompanied by mango salsa; The Way It Should Be that’s a combo of heirloom tomatoes, bocconcini di bufala (small nuggets of fresh mozzarella) and lemon Mosto olive oil; Topless Fresh Kumimoto Oysters with ginger mignonette and osetra caviar; and then there’s Beyond Sushi that joins fresh bluefin tuna prepared rare with tempura soft-shell crab and grilled smoked baby octopus, sided with cucumber salad.
Entr & #233;es: FedEx Delivers is made up of fresh Florida tile fish and Taiwanese-style seafood cake that’s pan-seared with lobster white chocolate mole sauce; The Birds entr & #233;e is pan-roasted fresh Muscovy duck breast and Cantonese duck with spiced rum pineapple sauce and Chinese sausage truffle risotto.
Dessert: chocolate chip macadamia cr & #269;me br & #369;l & #233;e or lemon/ginger ice cream.
Michael keeps about 600 wines from 16 countries on the list. Wine picks are the 2002 Flora Springs Napa Valley Soliloquy, 2002 Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare (from California’s eclectic winemaker, Randall Grahm), 1997 Louis Roederer Brut Rose Champagne, 1999 Iron Horse Sangiovese from the T-Bar-T Ranch in the Russian River Valley, 1997 Domaine Ostertag Pinot Gris (Muenchberg Vendange Tardives), and the 2001 Quiotee’s Lair Pinot Noir from White Rose Vineyard, Yamhill County, Oregon.
This is a great place for dinner before the Pageant of the Masters. Creative catering is another of Michael’s strong points.
* * *
GORDON JAMES GRILL
110 N. El Camino Real
San Clemente
(949) 498-9100
Chef: Bret Young
Gordon and Penny Rose and Jim and Ann Niederhauser founded this restaurant in January. What a treat it is!
It’s housed in the Ole Hansen building, a 1926 hacienda. They have given us a casual but serious ambiance that retains the history of the building and real comfort.
The owners have kept the hefty beams, rough stucco walls, decades-old Mexican tile floors and even the almost antique door. Chandeliers, original to the house, were found in the basement, refurbished and restored to the ceiling.
Beneath layers of plaster were original walls and rough-hewn studs that now are part of the d & #233;cor. What the new owners added on their own is comfortable dining space that has both booths and plenty of tables and one of the best long bars in the county, itself a jewel of woodworking, custom glasswork and massive expanses of marble.
We love to cozy up to that bar and eat one of the best appetizers in the county, the fried green beans served in a paper cone.
Bret Young has been cooking in OC for a few years and we’ve followed his career. He’s a graduate of the most famed of America’s chef training schools, the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y.
His American contemporary food has wowed several of our friends in the few months this restaurant has been open. Everything is prepared absolutely fresh and many of the meats are hand-carved; several of the fish entr & #233;es also are custom-cut in the kitchen.
Here are some of Bret’s dining suggestions. Appetizers: the aforementioned fried green beans, Hawaiian ahi and lobster Cabrillo. Entr & #233;es: New Zealand lamb rack, San Francisco cioppino and any of Gordon James’ hand-carved steaks. Desserts: Ann’s chocolate cake with vanilla gelato and Melba sauce, assorted fresh gelato (using fruits of the season) and mudd pie.
The 52-wine list is all California. Try these: 2001 Newton Unfiltered Chardonnay, 2000 Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon or the 2001 Lancaster Cabernet Sauvignon.
The bar is a great place to have dinner and bartenders give generous pours. Alternative seating in the patio or the fireplace area is nice.
Lunch is served weekends from noon to 3 p.m.
Gordon James is an easy walk to the pier and downtown San Clemente.
* * *
HUSH
858 S. Coast Highway
Laguna Beach
(949) 497-3616
Chef: Phillip Kaufman
New York meets Laguna Beach at this casual, chic, minimalist, understated, sleek, suave and lovely restaurant.
Hush is only four months old and I very much like what it’s offering in both ambiance and food. We have been sending friends to enjoy it and we shared an evening on the patio,one of the best outdoor spots on our horizon,with a big group of our dining-out friends.
Owner Chuck Rock, who we’ve only known since the opening of the restaurant, and general managing partner Daniel Reyes, a professional restaurateur we’ve known for a long time, are intent on adding sparkle to our dining possibilities.
In this rather silently elegant place where friendly and comforting times are the norm, it’s an easy bridge to go from the surroundings into the New World food that’s given a bit of French panache.
Chef Phillip Kaufman is another graduate of the Culinary Institute of America. His career has taken him through side-by-side cooking stints with the very famous Bradley Ogden and the well-respected George Morrone in Northern California. Other accomplishments are too many to list here.
Think in terms of Phillip’s following suggestions when you dine at Hush. Appetizers: lobster mac and cheese (I personally vouch for the rich decadence of this dish), ahi tuna tartare, and seared Hudson Valley foie gras. Entr & #233;es: seared dayboat sea scallops, veal porterhouse or Colorado rack of lamb. Dessert: peach beggar’s purse or frozen strawberry yogurt terrine.
The wine list is as serious as it gets. It runs the gamut from value-priced finds to the most unique boutique offerings,think a complete vertical of Screaming Eagle.
LeeAnn Kaufman, wife of the chef, incidentally, is a sommelier and helped Chuck take part of his personal wine cellar and turn the restaurant’s list into a 960-label affair and the inventory into a 10,000-bottle cache.
Here are LeeAnn’s wine picks. With the appetizers: 2001 Ramey Hyde Vineyard Carneros Chardonnay, 2001 Caymus Conundrum and 1997 Chateau d’Yquem (with that decadently delicious foie gras). With entr & #233;es: 1995 Chapoutier D’ Loree Hermitage Blanc, 2002 Tori Mor Olsen Vineyards Pinot Noir or 2001 Melville Santa Rita Hills Syrah. Dessert wines: 2001 Inniskillin Sparkling Ice Wine from Canada and 1996 Royal Tokai Puttonyos.
Also worth your attention: interesting casual food in the bar, a wonderful patio with space heaters and a huge fireplace.
* * *
IL FORNAIO
18051 Von Karman Ave.
Irvine
(949) 261-1444
Chef: Nino Chirico
The Il Fornaio restaurants have been around since 1987, when the first of the chain’s locations was opened by founder Larry Mindel in Corte Madera.
When Il Fornaio opened here a dozen years ago, it had a great influence on the landscape of Italian dining. Not only did it offer authentic food and great ambiance, it operated with chef partners, and in a few cases, managing partners.
Il Fornaio sent a message that they were totally serious about what they were serving.
The restaurant always has been a fascination with its combination take on Italian manor living and very comfortable restaurant scene.
The open kitchen shows chefs bustling about and there’s no doubt from the design elements that this is a haven for good food. I have written numerous articles about Marcello Apollonio, formerly the chef/partner here who now is the managing partner of our Irvine restaurant.
Marcello recently made a lateral management move out of the kitchen in order to continue to create closer relationships with the guests he has known for so long.
Nino, with 25 years of experience and an Italian heritage, has concentrated his entire career on cooking the most authentic of Italian foods. He is now putting that symbiotic cultural love on our plates. I feel it is my duty to nudge you into meeting him.
Appetizers: bruschetta al pomodoro (best combo of tomatoes, basil and olive oil on grilled ciabatta bread), baked baby artichokes stuffed with calamari and parmesan cheese, and house antipasto plate for two or more that has goat cheese rolled in smoked salmon, scallops wrapped in pancetta, eggplant salad, grilled artichoke, olives, bruschetta, caprese and cantaloupe with prosciutto.
Entr & #233;es: Conchiglie al Pollo (shell pasta with chicken breast and broccoli, sun-dried tomatoes and pecorino cheese); seafood linguine with clams, mussels, prawns and scallops; or homemade ravioli filled with roasted eggplant, Italian baked ricotta, basil and roasted garlic.
Desserts: tiramisu (feathery light and utterly delicious), chilled zabaione (whipped egg yolks cooked slowly over warm water,it becomes lighter than a cloud,with fresh berries, Bellini sorbet, fresh whipped cream and amarena wild cherries) or perchance a shot of espresso poured over fresh vanilla bean ice cream (called Affogato al Caff & #269;).
There are about 100 American and Italian wines to choose from. Marcello recommended these two house wines as being very suitable for sipping with your food: 2003 Il Fornaio Chardonnay and 2003 Il Fornaio Chianti Classico.
There are monthly regional Italian menus that allow us to experience the foods of various areas of Italy. The Basilicata menu lasts until July 18.
* * *
LA VIE EN ROSE
240 S. State College Blvd.
Brea
(714) 529-8333
Chef: Brian Tran
This is the OC restaurant where the French language can be heard in the mix of American and French clientele.
That’s because it is so very authentic, so very charming and ultimately the place where connoisseurs of dignified country French food congregate.
Louis Laulhere, French by birth, and a veteran of a few of America’s most famous restaurants, bought the restaurant two decades ago. He’s kept OC’s French-born from being homesick and the rest of us on an educational culinary tour since opening.
We love the Normandy home look, as if a wealthy family still lived here. We love the overall graciousness of the place and the staff.
The linen-draped tables sparkle with appropriate settings, including wine glasses in which to pour some wines from the now-famous list of specially selected “finds.” The cushiest of seating beckons near the fireplace for before-dinner or after-dinner drinks. (We often have our dessert there.) The cocktail lounge oozes friendliness.
Chef Brian Tran has been with this restaurant for 10 years.
He’s originally from Vietnam and came to America via Belgium.
Brian worked at restaurants in Belgium and France and finally found his “home” at La Vie.
He always is delighted at the interest customers show in the preparation and history of the foods on the menu.
Some of the chef’s personal favorites follow. Appetizers: classic escargot in herb/butter sauce, fresh mussels steamed in white wine, galantine of duck. Entr & #233;es: roasted duck in traditional orange sauce (the epitome if you enjoy duck), fresh salmon with sorrel beurre blanc, traditional filet mignon with sauce b & #233;arnaise.
Desserts: Since La Vie has an astounding trolley loaded with fresh pastries, tarts, cakes, mousses and cr & #269;mes of various flavors, it is suggested you let your eyes and heart lead you to the perfect dessert.
The wine list is 250 labels deep, with all from just three countries. As noted above, aficionados are smitten with this list that has so many unique and wonderful wines at very lovable prices.
Here are some wines you can consider tasting: 2001 Angeline Russian River Valley Chardonnay (I’m not a major of fan of chardonnay, but this one is fine with me anytime), 2000 Au Bon Climat Talley Vineyard Chardonnay, Logan 1999 Sleepy Hollow Pinot Noir and Bighorn Cellars 2000 Napa Valley Cabernet.
And remember this: Edmond and Joyce Sarfati, who retired from their own famous French caf & #233; almost two years ago, are now hosting here on Friday and Saturday evenings.
The dinner menu is prix fixe at $37.50 and $48.75 for three courses ( & #341; la carte ordering also is allowed).
* * *
MAMMA GINA
251 E. Coast Highway
Newport Beach
(949) 673-9500
Chef: Steve Falco
It all began in 1996 for Ristorante Mamma Gina in Newport Beach, the younger sibling to the Mamma Gina restaurant in Palm Desert, itself a spinoff of the original family restaurant in Florence, Italy.
Northern Italian cooking was given a new venue, one with a view of the bay and the expensive yachts. The restaurant continues to comfort us with authentic food, a warm and friendly staff and superb wines.
While I’m comfortable at the tables here, all of which are dressed in linen, I love sitting in one of the booths that hug the front windows just in front of the docks.
A few weeks ago, we were dining again at Mamma Gina with friends. We shared some tuna carpaccio. All of us are still talking about the delicious rolled pasta, which is mentioned below as one of the favorite dishes of the chef and general manager.
We had creamy risotto with porcini mushrooms. We had rack of lamb. We loved the veal scaloppine with prosciutto and sage. The meal was finished with cr & #281;pes filled with cr & #269;me br & #369;l & #233;e that were sitting in a little moat of Grand Marnier sauce. As the Italians would say,”delizioso.”
Mamma Gina’s chef, Steve Falco, and managing partner, Athos Fiori, picked some items from the menu that they like to eat. Use these suggestions and mine above as your guideline for dining.
Appetizers: grilled polenta canap & #233;s topped with portobello mushrooms and roasted peppers, saut & #233;ed shrimp in garlic/wine sauce and insalata saporita (fresh greens with gorgonzola cheese, sundried cranberries and poached pears).
Entr & #233;es: rolled pasta with ham and parmesan cheese and b & #233;chamel sauce (it is awesome,the Italian name is Rotelle di Verona), Florentine steak (24 oz. prime t-bone grilled with mushroom sauce), rack of lamb with rosemary sauce. Desserts: tiramisu or cr & #233;pes with cr & #269;me br & #369;l & #233;e.
Of about 200 wines on the list from Italy, France and the U.S., Athos chose these as good matches for the food ideas shared by him and Steve: 1999 Antinori Solaia, 1997 Brunello di Montalcino Castiglione del Bosco and 2001 Silvio Jermann Pinot Grigio.
A trio of other thoughts: There’s live music every evening in the friendly lounge. Terrace seating is available (closer to those yachts). Sunday Brunch also is a fine affair at $19.90.
* * *
MARIPOSA AND BAR ON THREE
Neiman Marcus
601 Newport Center Drive
Newport Beach
(949) 467-3350
Chef: Steve Palmer
Neiman Marcus one-upped the other department stores in the restaurant sector when Mariposa opened five months ago.
It’s the cr & #269;me de la cr & #269;me of in-store dining. Lunch is served from 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday through Saturday, noon-4 p.m. on Sundays,no dinner. I also should mention that cocktails and small plates of food are served from 4 p.m.-7 p.m.
Chef Steve Palmer (I’ve written about his food here and elsewhere a few times in the past) has been honing the food for this store since 2001, first in Zodiac and now here.
He’s put together a menu of very creative salads and sandwiches and regionally inspired American entr & #233;es; fresh seafood and desserts made daily are part of that. I will vouch for the beautiful presentations at Mariposa.
They’ve spent a lot of money making the restaurant worthy of being associated with the Neiman Marcus name. We had a walk-through when it was only raw beams and stripped wood floors and even then could see that it was going to be a finely decorated affair.
Mariposa looks out to the ocean, Catalina and Palos Verdes. A carpeted area along the large windows reportedly cost $14,000. An inviting bar beckons us to have a drink, even if we were not staying for a full-fledged meal at the moment.
A few booths, with custom artwork lamps on two of them, join the tables throughout the room. The patio/terrace is pretty compelling. Classify Mariposa as sophisticated, contemporary, elegant and welcoming.
Here are a few suggestions from Steve that he thought embodied the culinary spirit of his menu. Appetizers: jasmine rice cake with miso-glazed Asian eggplant, crispy calamari with chunky tomato/basil sauce and lemon aioli, and seafood cocktail with papaya salsa and gazpacho broth.
Entr & #233;es: grilled shrimp and romaine salad, mixed seafood (shellfish) salad featuring chunks of lobster and miso-glazed sea bass with crispy rice cake and baby bok choy (very fine, indeed).
Desserts: chocolate pots de cr & #269;me, warm apple tart with cinnamon ice cream, and the one I love, Pecan Ball with vanilla ice cream, which is made up of toasted pecans, a drizzle of chocolate and caramel sauces, served in a martini glass.
About a dozen wines are offered, including the Piper-Heidsieck NV Brut Champagne, 2002 Estancia Pinot Grigio (nice clean, but full-bodied taste) and Raymond 1999 Napa Valley Reserve Merlot.
More reasons to be there: fashion show on Fridays, noon-3 p.m.; abbreviated lunch menu on Sundays with frittata, macadamia nut pancakes and other early day fare joining some salads. I have a Bellini-tini or Ramos Fizz with my brunch.
* * *
MIRABEAU
17 Monarch Bay Plaza
Dana Point
(949) 234-1679
Chefs: David Pratt, executive chef;
Katie Averill, pastry chef
Katie Averill and David Pratt are both grads of the University of California, Los Angeles, with degrees in mass communications and international relations, respectively.
They both then ended up at the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. After graduation, they immediately began working for renowned chefs and spent time helping open some specialty restaurants for an East Coast chef.
Somewhere along the way, the two decided to risk opening their own little caf & #233;.
Mirabeau may be a bit smallish, but it’s a long way from being merely another little restaurant on the canvas. It is now 17 months old and, in its first year, was named one of the best new French bistros in the U.S. by Food & Wine magazine. We simply adore this place.
Mirabeau bustles with energy, though it maintains a romantic atmosphere throughout. It has cute little tables inside, an open kitchen at the back of the dining room and a fantastic patio with ocean views. It’s a very pretty restaurant.
The duo of chef-owners was content in giving me these suggestions for things to try from the menu. Appetizers: white asparagus wrapped in house-cured gravlax, spicy steamed clams with Merquez sausage (bistro fare at its very best) and tomato tart on puff pastry (one of the best hors d’oeuvres I’ve ever had).
Entr & #233;es: bouillabaisse with 16 kinds of fish imported from France (find any restaurant in OC that can top that; it’s exquisite), rib eye steak with frites and black Alaskan cod with braised artichokes and roasted tomato.
Desserts: nectarine turnovers with white chocolate ice cream or Grand Marnier souffl & #233;.
Being a bistro, there are only 60 wines on the list, but they are perfectly chosen and quite enough for this concept. All come from France and California.
With the appetizers, try the 1997 M. Chapoutier Cote-Roti, 2000 Chateau Coutet St. Emilion Grand Cru or 2002 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Chardonnay. To match the main courses: 2002 Guigal Cotes du Rhone Blanc, 2001 Domaine Ott Rose or 2000 Bott-Geyl from Alsace.
A little extra lusciousness to match your desserts: NV Montaudon Brut Champagne or 2001 Domaine de Coyeaux Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise.
Some other morsels: try the blue French Riviera martinis; go to Sunday brunch (average entr & #233;e is $12); they never close in the afternoon, so stop by for some mussels and frites or steak tartare; this is the late-night destination,the bar is open until 2 a.m.; there’s a jazz guitarist Wednesday nights and a DJ on Thursday nights when the kitchen stays open till 1:30 a.m.
* * *
SALT CREEK GRILLE
32802 Pacific Coast Highway
Dana Point
(949) 661-7799
Chef: Louis Lepe
I’ve mentioned the Salt Creek Grille in several of these special supplements. It’s because the restaurant has a lot to offer any season of the year.
First of all, it’s a warm, casually sophisticated place with beautiful, wood-intensive, Craftsman-style architecture. You will encounter a spacious and lovely patio, recently expanded to keep up with guest demand.
It’s a fine place to dine al fresco in the evening or for a relaxing lunch. Like the comfort of a private lodge, this restaurant envelops you immediately with a welcoming feeling. It was founded in 1986 by Tim McCune and Pete Truxaw, both of whom have longtime restaurant track records.
Chef Louis Lepe sports one of those self-made stories. Louis didn’t become chef by way of a prestigious culinary school, nor from working with some stellar chef.
He’s been here eight years, beginning as a cook and working his way through all the food prep stations to the top spot.
Here are some of his and the management’s menu suggestions. Appetizers: seared rare ahi tuna (dusted with Cajun spices), stuffed jumbo shrimp (one of their special signature recipes,the shrimp are wrapped with applewood-smoked bacon and served with chipotle honey sauce) and oven-baked goat cheese/cream cheese blend with fresh marinara sauce.
Entr & #233;es: shallot-crusted Chilean sea bass in champagne and lemon butter broth, the 16-ounce mesquite-grilled center cut pork chop with hot apple chutney, and filet mignon with grain mustard sauce.
Dessert: The signature item is the chocolate ganache souffl & #233; finished tableside for a showy presentation.
The Salt Creek Grille has 108 wines from four countries on its wine list.
Make it easy on yourself with these wines: 2002 Frog’s Leap Sauvignon Blanc, 2002 Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay, 1998 Ferrari-Carano Sonoma County Tresor, 2002 Heitz Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay, 2002 David Bruce Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, 2000 Nickel & Nickel Tench Vineyard Cabernet or EOS 2000 Zinfandel Port.
Extra thoughts: It’s only 15 minutes to the Pageant of the Masters in Laguna Beach, so this is a good place to dine beforehand. It has a notable, rather upscale clientele for evening nightcaps and cappuccinos (nice to snuggle up by the fire pit), probably a lot of them guests at the luxury resorts nearby.
And there’s outstanding smooth jazz from a trio on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings.
* * *
TORTILLA JO’S
Downtown Disney
1510 Disneyland Drive
Anaheim
(714) 535-5000
Chef: Torr Kelso
The Patina Group, which owns Catal and Naples in Downtown Disney, took no time in refashioning the space that had been the underwhelming Y Arriba! into Tortilla Jo’s.
This new restaurant features Mexican pueblo-style cooking and gives us a new appreciation for deep and sensual tastes of authentic Mexican fare. However, they also have allowed the menu to share space with instantly recognized Mexican dishes such as tacos and burritos.
It’s not quite as rustic as the name would suggest, though the food’s really affordable. Lots of pink, orange and yellow brighten up the scene, while beautiful velvet seats, pewter candleholders, polished wood tables and hardwood floors add their own personality.
Two charming old shoemaker tables are used for presentation. Tortillas are made in full view. There’s also a quick pick-up window for foods if you don’t want to have a full sit-down experience.
In the dining room, guacamole is made at the table. Torr and Bret Thompson,Patina Group’s executive chefs,suggest the following choices.
Appetizers: sopes of chorizo and sweet corn with goat cheese and red radishes, empanadas filled with mushrooms, and queso Oaxaca before being drizzled with salsa chile de guajillo. Chicken taquitos with guacamole, crema fresca and pickled onions is another favorite of theirs and mine.
Entr & #233;es: Yucatan-style chicken breast with caramelized plantains (and with black beans and green rice, all of it served on a banana leaf), blue cornmeal-crusted soft-shell crab with summer corn and roasted pepper succotash or maybe the chicken and beef fajitas with red rice.
Desserts: Oaxacan chocolate bread pudding with caramelized banana and cashew ice cream or the pastel de tres leches with toasted pine nuts, caramel and star fruit.
The efficient wine list has 46 wines from four countries. Comfortable choices would be 2001 L.A. Cetto Private Reserve Valle de Guadalupe Chardonnay and Chateau Camou El Gran Divino Valle Guadalupe Rose, both from Baja California. Red wine drinkers could try the 1995 Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera Del Duero from Spain.
Also: The patio is a super place to dine and watch the wonderful world of Downtown Disney. It’s just plain fun. Strolling mariachis entertain evenings Wednesday through Saturday.
* * *
TRABUCO OAKS STEAKHOUSE
20782 Trabuco Oaks Drive
Trabuco Canyon
(949) 586-0722
Chef: Mario Moreno
This place is so early Orange County, dating back 36 years to a time when there were very few restaurants around.
It’s also a sort of time warp in that it hasn’t changed in concept or what could loosely be called “d & #233;cor” in all these years.
Trabuco Oaks still is completely rustic with raw wood beams and studs showing off their might, albeit behind literally thousands of neckties on display that have been cut from dudes who wandered in grossly overdressed for the occasion.
And we must not forget to point out that the massive oak tree, around which the restaurant was built, still grows through the roof, necessitating a larger roof opening every few years to accommodate it.
However, of paramount importance is the food.
This is a steakhouse. Owner Steve Nordeck has cemented his reputation for serving tender corn-fed beef supplied by two packinghouses,one in Nebraska and one in Iowa,that he handpicked because of their ability to deliver quality meats.
Fresh halibut, shrimp and chicken also are on the menu.
Chef Mario Moreno started as a dishwasher here 15 years ago and stayed on, turning himself into a superb grill chef.
To get to this food and the rustic restaurant, most of us travel up the canyon beneath the gorgeous all & #233;e of ancient oak trees. That morsel of a getaway from the city in itself is marvelous.
When you arrive, I suggest the following menu items. Appetizers: All entr & #233;es are served with a hearty fresh green salad, garlic toast, fries or baked potato and Western style beans, so you can’t manage much more than that before. Just order a drink and call that your appetizer.
Entr & #233;es: any of the perfectly aged steaks, barbecued beef ribs in homemade sauce, classic fish and chips and, just for good measure, the lamb chops.
Dessert: The Gizmo was invented here, so it’s a must. Cherry filling is tucked inside a flour tortilla and then it’s deep fried,served with ice cream. There’s also a Gizmo of the Month, making use of seasonal fruit.
The wine list has about 25 labels. Try the Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon, Duckhorn Three Palms Vineyard Merlot and Grgich Hills Cabernet. The most current vintages in release prevail for all wines.
* * *
TURNER NEW ZEALAND
650 Anton Blvd.
Costa Mesa
(714) 668-0880
Chef: Hugo Porcayo
Turner New Zealand will be two years old next month and owners Kathrin and Noel Turner are delighted with the results they’re seeing.
It’s a place where free-range, grass-fed meats and seafood from pristine New Zealand waters reign supreme. Beef, lamb and venison are raised without hormones or antibiotics.
The king salmon, mussels, oysters and other assorted seafood served here is the most healthful you will find.
When it comes to taste, you can’t top the flavor that jumps from quality of this kind. The legacy of the Turner family’s rugged fishing and farming heritage in New Zealand is carried on proudly here and it is chronicled on large black-and-white photomurals.
The long, narrow space and dark wood tables evoke Manhattan’s sleek, space-efficient, fine restaurants. The emphasis is on unhurried, top-notch service amid South Coast Metro’s buzzing center, though attention also is given to pre-theater goers and business people at lunch who need to dine within a limited time span.
Cuisine here is classified as New Zealand cooking, but I would call it superb cosmopolitan cuisine.
Noel and his chef had a hard time picking a few dishes to mention. Note that all items on the menu come from the Turner’s own farms and fisheries. To save repetition, I have given their menu suggestions, minus the Turner name each time.
Appetizers: king salmon sushi, mussels in coconut broth (nothing less than fantastic) and calamari. Entr & #233;es: 30-day aged filet mignon, lamb rack, venison chop. They neglected to select desserts, so I will just say that having eaten many times in this restaurant, there’s always an assortment of serious sweets to end your meal.
The wine list is 250 labels strong, with the largest selection of New Zealand wines in the U.S. Order these that are as full of flavor as the food: Seresin 2002 Sauvignon Blanc, 2002 Pegasas Bay Riesling, Palliser 2002 Pinot Gris, 1999 Trinity Hill Cabernet Merlot, Peregrine 2001 Pinot Noir and the 2000 Peninsula Estate Syrah.
Additional thoughts: Every seat in this restaurant is a window seat and there’s a patio in front of the restaurant for al fresco dining. It’s within walking distance of the Performing Arts Center.
* * *
ZOV’S BISTRO
17440 E. 17th St.
Tustin
(714) 838-8855
Chef: Zov Karamardian
The bistro has grown and grown since Zov and Gary Karamardian founded it in 1987 as a very small but cute place.
It started out adorable looking with smart little tables, a lovely antique sideboard serving as the wine and waiter station and Zov’s pastries shown in a glass case smack-dab in the center of the room.
Soon there was patio seating,it’s one of the best places to sit in the county. Then, on the other side of the bistro, more space became available.
Walls in between came down and a big and sleek stainless steel kitchen bridged the middle, serving both the bistro side and the new, N.Y.-modern eating area.
On that side, counters were curvy, walls were brighter and an overall perky ambiance played peek-a-boo with the sweet little bistro on the other side of the kitchen.
Finally, a few years ago, another space on the side of all this was begging for a tenant. Walls again were taken down and reconfigured, allowing a state-of-the-art bakery to be built.
Today, Zov’s Bistro is a seamless operation of food and happy diners, with the added attraction of a cooking school that draws some of America’s most vaunted culinarians.
Zov always has been the executive chef, concentrating on contemporary Medit-erranean food. I almost wrote an article about her and the catering business she was running out of her home kitchen way back in 1986.
She called and told me to wait on that as she was opening a small restaurant. What a career this self-taught cook has built.
Husband Gary and their son, Armen, now help her run the family restaurant and bakery business. Following are their suggestions for dining.
Appetizers: Mediterranean sampler plate, pan-saut & #233;ed calamari with beurre blanc sauce and house-cured gravlax. Entr & #233;es: roast rack of lamb with pomegranate molasses reduction, chicken Geras with wild rice and sour cherry brandy sauce.
Michelle Bracken is the pastry chef, one of the best in Southern California. She chose these sweet endings she’d like you to try: chocolate caramel tart with hazelnut crunch and caramelized lemon tart with summer berries and raspberry sorbet (as refreshing as a dessert possibly can get).
The wine list has mostly California wines, about 110 of them. Good picks: 2001 Caymus Napa Valley Conundrum, 2002 Rochioli Russian River Valley Chardonnay, 2001 Levendi Sweet Water Ranch Cabernet and Gary Farrell’s 2001 Sonoma County Pinot Noir.
