Just give us a new year and we writers are ready to expound endlessly on business and social thoughts and predictions. I too wish to share some thoughts.
Let me begin by listing some of the things that I think you should do this year if you are a serious diner.
Get out a red pen and note that the restaurant that goes to the top of the “A” list is La Vie en Rose in Brea. It simply exudes the essence of France today. It is a Classic French manor inside and out, with service that includes decanting of all red wines, artisanal cheeses from France that are found in no other restaurant, and French country food that is an absolute joy at prices that are quite moderate. For good measure, you may add an owner who is present and a wine list loaded with unique and marvelous boutique bottlings from France at very affordable prices. Why anyone would miss this is beyond me.
Make reservations as often as possible at the Golden Truffle in Costa Mesa, an OC restaurant on the culinary level of a three-star restaurant in France. From Caribbean-inspired dishes to French classics, updated only as owner-chef Alan Greeley can, to marvelous presentations of bits and pieces from the world’s entire culinary stage, this is what joyous dining is all about. Alan is the master at making memorable tastes into works of art that we hate to destroy with the fork. But we savor every morsel that passes our lips.
Rediscover the ambiance and the big menu of dishes that span France, Italy, America and a few Oriental ports at Arches in Newport Beach. There’s no flashy steel here, no exposed ducts, and no kitchen to be seen by the diner. Owner Dan Marcheano thankfully sticks with the lush comfort of a former era with huge leather booths and walls fully adorned in colorful splendor with great pieces of modern art. Many dishes are finished tableside, so we know the level of service is high. Since it’s almost alone in serving food very late every night, we often end up here in the almost wee hours for frog legs, cracked crab legs, a classic Caesar made from scratch in front of us, a pasta with the perfect marinara sauce, a great steak or a classic veal dish.
If you are rushing to try the new restaurants, here are a couple with new slants on things. Vertical Restaurant and Wine Bar has just opened in Laguna Beach. It’s taken the old Renaissance Caf & #233; space. Local chef-owner Jonathan Pflueger is joined in the kitchen by David Henninger (the former sous chef at Trilogy and before that the Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel). The food is called “innovative American” and the menu features tasting-size portions. This is an idea I like, since many of us enjoy trying more things in smaller amounts. Though I have not eaten there yet, the menu lists butter-braised lobster with pea tendrils, basil-fed escargot with polenta and wild mushrooms, venison with butternut squash gnocchi, foie gras and leek cannelloni, and chicken fricassee. The “American” take appears to be a variation on French dishes in several cases, but it all sounds good.
The new California Caf & #233; in The Shops at Mission Viejo is a good-looking place with an abundance of Murano glass as artwork and lighting, plenty of blond wood, a sushi bar up front and an open kitchen. The concept here is to awaken, unwind and nourish your senses through an escape from the routine foods that you find elsewhere. I have tried a lot of chef Kurt Schaeffer’s food during an over-indulgent lunch with two great foodie friends of mine and a family dinner for 10. Sushi chef Jo Dijamco can supply almost any sushi specialty you can think of, but there’s a standard list to help you out. Kurt’s food is driven by use of good ingredients. I really like the crab cakes, lamb shank with lentils and the jambalaya risotto. And the whole chicken grilled under a brick is just excellent with its mattress of mascarpone polenta.
For those, like me, who lament the drive to Orange or La Habra to get a Krispy Kreme doughnut fix, they are now available in Irvine. Not at one of their shops, but at the Irvine Marriott hotel’s Java Caf & #233; from early morning and all day through, every day but Sunday, when they are available only until noon. Foot traffic at the hotel has perked up a lot, I hear. We need our own free-standing building here in South County so we can see the neon “Fresh Donuts” sign when we drive up, but this is certainly a step in the right direction. The hotel is at Von Karman and Michelson, phone (949) 553-0100.
And, while other restaurants have closed, it was especially sad to me that Caf & #233; Francais in Orange was not there to enhance this holiday season. It recently closed after many years. Owner Jacques Duc could not negotiate a new lease with the landlord that would allow the restaurant to survive. When the world took a wide turn toward creative cuisine and newly minted dishes, Jacques merely continued what he’d always done: cooking authentic regional country French dishes. I can still remember the table near the window where we sat when the restaurant first opened. We ate saut & #233;ed foie gras, roasted breast of duck, a salad with slices of brie cheese after the main course, and a Grand Marnier souffl & #233; for dessert. We drank a Ch & #226;teauneuf-du-Pape wine. (I know you think I’ve written that down and am reading very old notes. But that is not the case. That meal is in my memory bank, as are a few others in my lifetime that made a very good impression.) I hope to see Jacques reopening at another location soon. I will let you know as soon as the French food is being cooked once more.
As this new year unfolds, I wish you all the happiest and most interesting dining experiences. We certainly have a lot of good restaurants to offer solace.
