California Caf & #233; Benefits From Location, Chef and Owner
I’m giving you a heads-up on celebrating Valentine’s Day in superior fashion.
One of the world’s finest Champagne houses is that of Laurent-Perrier, yet it’s not one of the names that falls naturally into an American’s conversation when it comes to sparkling wines. There is, however, a stellar opportunity coming for you not only to discover the charms of this French Champagne, but to enjoy Valentine’s Day a few days early at Roy’s of Newport Beach. On the evening of Monday, Feb. 5, at 7 p.m., a Champagne-and-fine-food evening will commence with a reception followed by a five-course dinner on Roy’s private lanai.
Roy’s of Newport Beach features the world-renowned Euro-Asian cuisine of chef Roy Yamaguchi, with executive chef Chris Garnier in charge of the kitchen here. The restaurant is at Fashion Island in Newport Beach, and you already know I really like Chris’ preparations since I’ve confessed on many occasions all the private meals I’ve had at Roy’s with friends. In a rare Southern California experience, Francois Xavier, vice president and general manager of the prestigious house of Laurent-Perrier, the largest independent family-owned group in France’s Champagne region, will speak about the various champagnes to be poured with dinner.
In keeping with the Valentine theme, the evening’s menu is sprinkled liberally with aphrodisiacs meant to complement the elixir of love. From a first course of seared foie gras with mango-pineapple demi-glace to wood smoked oysters with melted leeks, lobster essence and ostera caviar, the menu showcases luxe ingredients meant only for special occasions. Sashimi of beef, baby osso buco with champagne dill natural juices, and a finale of demi-sec Champagne terrine with fresh strawberries, Champagne sorbet and white chocolate ganache are also on the menu.
Laurent-Perrier Champagnes to be poured are the Demi-Sec, Brut L.P., Cuv & #233;e Rose Brut, and the prestigious Grand Si & #269;cle La Cuv & #233;e. Let me just add this: these wines are so lush in character, that since discovering Laurent-Perrier myself almost a quarter-century ago, our house has seldom been without a bottle or two to share with friends. Don’t pass up this opportunity to meet Francois and taste these wonderful wines, not to mention the signature cuisine that has made Roy’s a local favorite. You must make your reservations quickly, however, as seating is limited to 50 guests.
California Caf & #233; Showcases Chef
When California Caf & #233; Bar & Grill opened in November at The Shops at Mission Viejo, my first inclination was to invite Lew Geiser for lunch. He’s a retired Laguna Beach attorney and longtime culinary friend who has traveled in France and Italy with us. Furthermore, Lew spends at least two months a year in France now and has a fine palate for both food and wine. It turned out to be a good choice and a long, leisurely afternoon. In fact, in no time I was back with family and friends trying more of chef Kurt Schaeffer’s food.
This is one of a series of restaurants owned by Constellation Concepts of Corte Madera, which operates more than 30 restaurants, including the Napa Valley Grille, Blackhawk Grille, the amusing Alcatraz Brewing Co. in the Block at Orange, and one of my lingering favorites here in Southern California, Caf & #233; Del Rey in Marina del Rey. Nationwide, revenues yearly top $100 million. I have dined in many of their restaurants here and afar and I like the individuality that’s afforded each local chef and the way each restaurant is designed to fit its location.
The design here features ample use of blond wood, natural stone, Murano glass accents (including beautiful chandeliers), and elegant colors. The combination of moss green, terra cotta, pumpkin and eggplant tones is warm and inviting. Overall, it’s a contemporary setting, but it’s not industrial-edge trendy, which has just about run its course. A major focal point of the restaurant is the California sushi bar; this is the only restaurant in the chain featuring one. There’s also an open kitchen lining one entire wall. Booths and banquettes join freestanding tables for seating.
Almost two dozen wines by the glass, 23 selections of half bottles, and 74 labels on a one-page list run the gamut of respected names. Hess, Far Niente, Arrowood, Silver Oak, Bridlewood (superb Merlot from Santa Barbara County), Seghesio (full-bodied Sonoma Zinfandel), Joseph Phelps, Grgich Hills, and Talbot are but a few. Wines are priced as low as $18 a bottle.
Start any meal with a sampling of sushi chef Jo Dijamco’s creations, or sit only at the sushi bar and relish the amazing Temaki handrolls, dragon rolls (tempura shrimp, eel and avocado), or sashimi trio with Fuji apples. Or, delve into Kurt’s freshness-driven menu, divided into small plates, salads and sandwiches, big plates, and pasta and brick-fired pizzas. The brick-fired crab melt is a very fine sandwich. Chicken spring rolls with watermelon and jicima cole slaw are good munching any time. Braised lamb shank with barley-mushroom risotto is outstanding (had it twice already) and spit-roasted rack of pork (with whipped yams and cranberry-apple compote) is juicy and just downright delicious.
I like the half-dozen daily lunch and dinner specialties that Kurt turns out. They allow him to spread his wings. Grilled mahi-mahi atop lobster-infused mashed potatoes, tortellini with prawns, filet mignon with roasted root vegetables, and oven-baked halibut with a luscious orange-ginger beurre blanc are ones I’ve been impressed with, and one or another of these will likely be available when you dine. One of my favorite desserts here is the butter pear and almond galette (a cake-like tart) with fresh vanilla bean ice cream.
I will continue to stop in often at the new California Caf & #233;, 799 The Shops at Mission Viejo, and I can easily shop as well in the good-looking new mall where it sits as a focal point. Phone (949) 347-9333 for further information.
