Transplanting a restaurant from a decades-old location to a new space is a tricky thing. The county was abuzz with speculation and trepidation in the past year wondering where owner Dan Marcheano would put The Arches when he moved from the legendary location on Pacific Coast Highway. The lease was not being renewed for the old building that had housed the restaurant since 1922.
Until five weeks before he actually vacated the Pacific Coast Highway building, he had not signed a paper of any kind that would guarantee him a new lease and location to carry on The Arches legacy. But in typical Marcheano can-do fashion, a deal was forged, and within three months, The Arches Grill & BBQ opened in what at first seemed a most unlikely place.
The Arches took up residence in the cottage-style building that had formerly held Aubergine on 29th Street in Newport Beach. It was a cutesy place that had been run by property owner Dennis Overstreet. It certainly did not conjure up visions of anything that could translate into what we’d come to know as the nostalgic and somewhat rustic look of The Arches. Who could imagine retired Marine and big guy Dan pampering his clientele in such an atmosphere?
We needn’t have worried. Dan pulled it all together at almost warp speed, turning it into a place that has an even friendlier vibe than the previous location. We discovered that it has the same at-home feel as the historical location, only a bit more intimate.
Wood and other natural elements have given down-to-earth warmth that reminds me of a relaxing log cabin lodge. Even the ceiling has been paneled in some of that beautiful wood. Floors are rustic rock and cement. The Tiffany lamps survived the move as did the impressive paintings that set the scene at the original location. The staff too came along to give us the same pampered service we’d become accustomed to.
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The Arches: waterfront location |
Stunning New Tastes
So, here we are, Patrick and I, having our own new love affair with The Arches Grill & BBQ, an enriched title that better reflects today’s menu, which has a few stunning new tastes in addition to the old favorites that have always been the cornerstone of dining at The Arches.
In addition to a group of appropriate entree salads and a slew of sandwiches that are de rigueur for lunch,the Monte Cristo and the French Dip are absolute musts,we have a menu that borrows much from the dinner carte and also has some tremendously tasty barbecue items.
Dan couldn’t resist having some all American barbecue specialties tucked in with his already standard meats and seafood this time around. I can tell you that I’ve tried them all, each with a slightly different taste variation in the actual barbecue sauce, and it’s good to have them as alternatives. Aficionados of pulled pork know that it has to be braised and drop dead tender and then pulled apart by hand. Slathered with its own flavorful barbecue sauce, this one is a winner.
Dan even has BBQ pork wings on the menu. Like me, you are undoubtedly wondering what in the heck a pork wing is. Well, it turns out that he came across a purveyor who supplied chunks of lean pork shoulder with an artificial “wing” bone through them to resemble a very plump chicken wing. Dan cooks them fork tender in a barbecue sauce.
All of the barbecue items are on the dinner menu. And at either lunch or dinner, all those wonders of past meals remain. There’s the most classic shrimp cocktail, very Italian shrimp scampi and escargot done Burgundy style, which are always in vogue with me for appetizers. Braised lamb shanks and veal (piccata or marsala style or as a chop) are still high priority entres for me. Steak lovers have a good selection and the meats can be ordered as combos with lobster or crab legs. A pound of the Alaskan king crab legs on their own is always a special treat, of course, but the stone crab claws are a perennial favorite of customers too.
Few places do steak Diane anymore, but this one is authentically prepared. I am blown away by the frog legs, which I can rarely find. Crab cakes are packed with meat, not fillings, and make a good entree. Calamari, soft shell crab, abalone and several kinds of fresh fish are still on the menu.
Savory Extras
You don’t have to order side dishes here. Starch and vegetables come with all entrees. They feed you seriously generous portions; I can never seem to finish everything.
Wine with food like this is a natural, and we aren’t shorted. The list has about 600 selections, both domestic and international. Honestly, I’ve yet to order a bottle of wine here because there are always good wines by the glass and it gives the two of us more leeway.
For dessert, how about a standby like cherries jubilee or bananas foster? Both are old school and newfound comfort.
The Arches may have embellished its name a bit, but it remains one of those places that is indelible in our culinary travels.
As a tiny aside: After Dan acquired this location, he also became the proprietor of the smaller Arches on the Water, just steps away and which has its own dock. It’s a romantic little dining room and quite the thing for yachts and Duffy boats as boaters can pick up their pre-ordered meals dockside. It has almost the same menu as its bigger sibling.
The Arches Grill & BBQ, 508 29th St., Newport Beach (949) 673-1204.
The Arches on the Water, 2816 Lafayette St., Newport Beach (949) 673-1204.
