Local Restaurants Plan Their Valentine’s Day Menus
Someone recently asked me why “Sipping in the Chai” is the title of the wine column in my food, wine and travel newsletter. The explanation is good for a bit of history. It’s because that phrase immediately conjures up a passel of memories of tasting fine wines amid the barrels of chateaux and winery operations throughout Europe. Chai is a French word that means wine storage place.
In Europe, there’s often a big, antique table centering the chai. Here, sparkling glasses are set out so barrel samples or bottled vintages might be tasted. Sometimes the floors of the chai are strewn with gravel, an excellent medium for helping maintain the cool temperature. Sometimes the floors are natural earth or cement. I suppose that since my first interest in wines in the ’70s,other than drinking homemade Italian red wine growing up,took me to Europe for five weeks, the image of the chai made a lasting impression.
On my own, without any reservations or contacts, and never having been in Europe before that, it was sheer good luck that I met the creator of Vin Expo, the largest trade- and press-only tasting in the world, held every other year. Upward of 70,000 professionals converge on Bordeaux for this look at the wines of the world. My French mentor and his wife have become dear friends. Beginning then, they have opened the doors to the wine chateaux and kitchens of top-notch chefs for me.
Whenever we taste wines at a panel or with friends in their homes here on our territory, the conversation inevitably turns to chateaux overseas that have been visited by someone and we compare chai experiences. So, though our dining room table is not the table in the chai, we still relish just as much the camaraderie that tasting and sharing thoughts on wine brings forth.
The latest wine to catch my fancy is the first Meritage (Bordeaux-style blended wine) from Rodney Strong Vineyards. This winery, now four decades old, makes generally accessible wines, but some of them are very good indeed. One wine that is often mentioned in the press and suggested by sommeliers is the single vineyard designation Alexander’s Crown Vineyard Cabernet (a well-rounded, consistent style now in it’s 25th year). I also happen to like the style of Merlot they make. But the newest wine from winemaker Rick Sayre is the 1996 Symmetry. The wine is the result of 10 years of improvements in grape quality from new vineyard acquisitions and the replanting of older vineyards. Alexander Valley is the source territory for Symmetry, a blend of 60% Cabernet (the backbone and density of the wine), 30% Merlot (for softness and lush character) and 10% Cabernet Franc (to round out the taste components and provide a suppleness). This valley, similar in microclimate to the Medoc region of Bordeaux, has cool overnight temperatures and full sunny days. The grapes that result from these vineyards are rich, full-flavored, and capable of making long-lasting wines.
Production of the ’96 Symmetry is limited, but your local wine shop should have it on hand for a short time. Suggested retail is $50 and it is presented in a six-bottle wooden case, making the new wine a collector’s item. Chao publishes Chao’s Dinesty, a food, wine and travel newsletter, in Irvine.
SIDE ORDERS
It is not a good idea to overlook reservations for Valentine’s Day. Restaurants are packed for this romantic day and last-minute reservations are hard to come by. If you call quickly, the restaurants listed below probably still can accommodate you. Note that many of them are serving a Valentine-themed menu on both Sunday, Feb. 13, and Monday, Feb. 14.
Zov’s Bistro in Tustin is featuring a five-course meal, served both Sunday and Monday, seatings at 5:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. $48 per person, plus tax and gratuity. Owner Zov Karamardian has earned national recognition for her ever-expanding dining venue that now encompasses the original bistro, a New York-style California/Mediterranean restaurant and bakery, all in the same building. 17440 E. 17th St. (in the Enderle Center); call (714) 838-8855, Ext. 2.
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The Ritz Restaurant and Garden is offering both a prix fixe menu and the regular a la carte menu throughout the weekend; while on Monday, Feb. 14, the regular menu will be offered. The prix fixe,served Saturday and Sunday from 5 p.m. at $45 per person, plus tax and tip,consists of roasted red bell pepper soup with smoked chicken, broiled Maine lobster tails and Portobello filet mignon with special vegetables for entr & #233;e, and passion cr & #269;me br & #369;l & #233;e with Grand Marnier-infused strawberries for dessert. 880 Newport Center Drive; (949) 720-1800.
Roy’s of Newport Beach is offering five specials for the occasion. Baked smoked salmon and spinach stuffed with fresh oysters is the appetizer, organic greens with marinated artichokes and crisped Maui onions is the salad course, Nori-crusted broadbill swordfish or braised osso buco with pancetta are the entr & #233;e specials, and an elegant chocolate sampler plate is offered for dessert. The courses are $6.25 to $24.50 and you order whichever ones you want. Nice touch here is that for each course there’s an interesting wine by the glass suggested. The regular menu will also be offered. The special menu is available at dinner Saturday through Monday. 453 Newport Center Drive; phone (949) 640-7697.
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Racing for Romance is the theme for the Valentine’s Day racing and dining event at Santa Anita Park. The new upscale restaurant, FrontRunner, is offering a multi-course meal, commemorative gift of two gold-trimmed Champagne flutes, and the day at the races. The menu features California-inspired dishes such as endive and arugula salad with toasted California chevre cheese, grilled prawns wrapped in pancetta, sauteed scaloppine of Summerfield Farms veal, grilled tamarind-glazed mahi mahi and stone oven pizza. Served on Saturday, Feb. 12, and Sunday, Feb. 13, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Price is $70 per couple. Advance reservations, which must be made by Wednesday, Feb. 9, with credit card, include complimentary admission to Santa Anita Park for the day. Call (310) 450-6060.
