Call this my Italian column. It’s about a trio of restaurants, all doing something different. Just opened in Rancho Santa Margarita is Mione’s Old World Delicatessen & Market. It’s proof that for some being in the food world rules the heart. Owner John Mione used to serve us terrific home-style food in his Mione’s restaurant. But, after years of such hard work, John moved on. Now that love he’d buried in a corner of his heart has resurfaced in this new venture. The great thing is that it’s a panoply of products directly from Italy, and John’s also cooking some authentic Italian foods. And since it is a deli, he’s also making sure we have a good supply of macho sandwiches.
I had no problem thinking of several Italian dishes to make in my own kitchen as I gathered up products. The red-speckled fagioli (beans) would be used in soup and several kinds of dried pastas made with sure semolina would provide the base for various sauces in the days to come. The tube of anchovy paste would give added depth to many of my dishes. The little can of solid tuna in olive oil just happens to be the right size for a tuna sauce I’ll serve over roasted veal (vitello tonnato). I won’t have to make pesto sauce because it’s already done for me, and I can cook pasta in seven minutes and pour it on for a super quick meal. I will drizzle the olive oil from its pyramid-shaped bottle and the balsamic vinegar from its sturdy square bottle over my salads and also use them to cook my foods and deglaze the pan when I saut & #233;. And the sopresatta, arguably the best Italian salami made, will make fine appetizers while we wait for dinner to finish cooking.
Eating in the deli provides the opportunity to sample very real Italian pizzas, baked casseroles such as lasagne, eggplant Parmesan and crepes with Italian fillings and several kinds of pastas. The huge roasted Portabello mushroom marinated in herbs and marsala-garlic sauce, listed as an appetizer, is interesting, and, though it’s hard to find good soups in restaurants now, John makes three kinds every day. Sandwiches tackle pastrami, beef, ham and poultry, in addition to tuna, several kinds of wursts, veggies and cheese. The “aha!” offering is the pan-grilled swordfish steak on an Italian roll with house dressing.
Have a meal and then a shopping spree to get special stocking-stuffers for the foodies on your holiday list.
Oops. I almost forgot to tell you that John also will do your catering.
Maggiano’s New Year’s Plans
Just in case you’re still fence-sitting about what to do for New Year’s Eve, Maggiano’s Little Italy in Costa Mesa has the look and feel of the good old days, which might be just the ticket instead of the trendy glitz and glamour that poke at us every day of the year. Maggiano’s, looking like a large pre-World War II New York City dinner house, is known for its menu of classic Southern Italian cuisine,a nice respite from all the Northern Italian and Tuscan dishes at the core of so many Italian menus these days.
Maggiano’s will ring in the New Year by offering three dinner seatings: 5 p.m., 7:15 p.m. and 9:45 p.m. Those opting for the late seating will enjoy a special celebration package. Guests throughout the evening are invited to order directly from Maggiano’s traditional dinner menu; however, those at the 9:45 p.m. seating will be encouraged to remain at the restaurant until 2 a.m., allowing them to enjoy live music performed by Grammy nominee Doc Anello and his band. Enjoy dancing, a midnight toast with Champagne, party favors and other festivities. There will be an additional $25 per person charge for the 9:45 p.m. seating only.
The restaurant actually is repeating last year’s successful formula. I like the fact that they serve the regular full menu and that those who wish to enjoy a nice dinner before going out to a party also get to enjoy the fun and energetic atmosphere. The late diners get that dose of comforting nostalgia, good food and the New Year’s Eve party in one place. Incidentally, for those opting to stay home on New Year’s Eve, Maggiano’s is offering special holiday catering packages designed for groups of 25 people or more. The catering packages feature select items from the menu.
The New Year’s Eve dining and catering require advance reservation.
Stefano Il Ristorante Debuts
Italian chef Stefano Colaiacomo is the owner and chef of the new Stefano Il Ristorante, formerly Amici Trattoria, near South Coast Plaza and the Performing Arts Center in Costa Mesa. Stefano refers to his food as New Edge Italian cuisine. More than $2 million is said to have gone into the expansion and redesign of the restaurant. The new interior is quite handsome with hand-painted historic frescos adorning the walls, imported hand-blown Murano chandeliers, elegant water fountains and crackling fireplaces. The collaboration between award-winning interior architect Gale Fields, Miki Wise (dining room manager) and Stefano resulted in seven unique dining areas, each with its own name and distinctive feel yet woven together with common architectural themes.
Stefano most recently was executive chef and partner (a 10-year association) in the Dell’ Opera Restaurant Group of Long Beach, whose restaurants include L’Opera, The Madison and Alegria. He was with the Giorgio Armani restaurants before that. Born in Italy and classically trained, he was the private chef of former Italian president Roberto Pertini before arriving in the U.S. He has been named by USA Today as one of the West Coast’s finest chefs and recently was honored by Chefs in America as one of North America’s outstanding chefs. In addition, the National Directory of Leading Chefs in America and Canada listed him as one of the 100 Best Chefs in North America.
Of course, Stefano cannot handle the kitchen all by himself. So his brother, Alessandro Colaiacomo, is serving as co-chef. The brothers have worked together for the past five years. Thus they must have their act together. While we are all caught up in the holiday shopping frenzy of South Coast Plaza, it’s a nearby dining choice when we’re too tired to cook.
