The handsome Cannery, Seafood of the Pacific restaurant in Newport Beach indulges the diner with an array of ways to enjoy an afternoon or evening of food.
Besides the various styles of dining within one building, there’s lots of ongoing excitement: renowned chefs come down from Los Angeles to guest chef for an evening, celebrated authors sign books, sports legends join proprietor Ron Salisbury to raise money for special community causes and dining adventures take place aboard boats.
The Cannery has a deep history that continues to be honored. Along with the terrific food, that’s what makes it a favored place among both locals and tourists.
The restaurant dates back to 1921 as the first commercial fish cannery on the Rhine Channel in Newport’s fabled old Cannery Village between 30th Street and Lido Park Drive.
This section of Newport Harbor still is the center of commercial fishing boat activity. Western Canners Co. was created in 1934. The company took the cannery to a new level of importance in the food chain, though operations were then done by hand with a maximum of 400 cases per day.
Soon, mechanization took production to 5,000 cases a day. By the 1950s, legend has it that a record 135 tons of mackerel and 10,000 of albacore were packed in one day.
By 1960, the era of the fish cannery was ending. Newport’s residential and commercial growth brought pollution to the harbor and fewer fish lingering in the nearby waters.
In 1966 the building was closed and remained empty until Bill Hamilton (owner of Newport’s Malarkey’s that I long ago dubbed “The pub with great food”) acquired it and turned it into the Cannery restaurant in 1973.
He restored the building and gave Newport an important landmark destination. Bill also founded Clean Harbor Day and got the community involved in restoring the entire harbor to a more pristine condition, another winning factor.
Even then, the restaurant’s reputation for serving freshly caught seafood was a punctuation point.
In the fall of 1999, Bill sold the property to a developer and it almost became a few waterside homes. Thankfully, local resident Jack Croul purchased the property, seeking to preserve it and its history as a dining establishment.
This is when Ron Salisbury, his son Creed and executive chef Felix Salcedo entered the picture. Mr. Croul entrusted the restaurant venture to them and thus was created the Cannery, Seafood of the Pacific.
Ron’s family of restaurants already included several El Cholo caf & #233;s, the Original Sonora Caf & #233; and Cat & The Custard Cup.
The first El Cholo on Western Avenue in L.A. still packs in stars, celebrities and sports figures, fortifying it as a continuing restaurant of importance.
What has transpired under Ron’s direction in Newport Beach is a fantastic looking building that still has traces of its cannery beginnings but also is replete with custom architecture and furnishings.
There’s now a wall of water that first greets us at the front desk. The waterfall wall adjoins the stairway going up to the Japanese setting at the sushi bar and the piano lounge.
Big chandeliers throughout the space are of custom blown glass representing whimsical kinds of fish. In the street/water level grill room, booths join tables, all with water views. An open kitchen allows observation of the fast-paced cooking scene.
There’s a rather sophisticated all-weather patio for dining on the water. Even the lobby is ultra interesting. Baseball fans of all ages will enjoy the museum-quality baseball memorabilia on display.
There’s a Cy Young’s autograph and checks signed by Babe Ruth and Ty Cobb.
Electric Duffy boats, owned by the restaurant, sit at the dock where they can be rented (a whole menu of boat-ready dishes or meals is available). If you happen to have your own boat ahem, yacht … the Cannery is known for its catering aboard.
Service and table amenities at the restaurant speak of understated elegance. And, there’s always an air of energy and happiness that wafts through the rooms.
Jellyfish Bar has become one of Newport’s hottest night spots, a great place to feel the flow of energy. Order one of their famous margaritas or your favorite cocktail and just enjoy the scene.
Overall, this is a completely positive place.
The restaurant’s goal is often repeated: To make every guest feel as though they are in an extension of their very own home.
The Cannery said it isn’t reinventing the wheel,only the ride. They consistently give us more under one roof than most restaurants can muster.
The kitchen uses only the freshest produce, delivered daily, to prepare interesting fare.
All the seafood is delivered daily. It’s flown in from all over the country, as well as secured from local fishing boats. The Cannery serves corn fed, certified Angus beef from the Midwest.
And I certainly like that there’s only a small freezer at the Cannery. That leaves more space for refrigeration units because everything comes in fresh and is made in the kitchen daily, with the exceptions being bread and ice cream.
A serious seafood restaurant gives ample attention to a raw seafood bar. Here, cold briny oysters always beckon to me. The sushi bar, sitting on that upper level perch, has become such a popular part of this seafood place.
One of the dining temptations featured on a monthly schedule of late is the enticement of some of L.A.’s most celebrated chefs to guest chef for an evening.
We recently attended the evening with Joe Miller, chef and owner of Joe’s in Venice, the most talked about restaurant in the area.
We sat in a comfy booth and wished for a bigger appetite as his menu was full of Joe’s signature dishes.
They did not disappoint.
We paraded through his watermelon gel & #233;e with lobster and mango, plus caviar and then the soft-shell crab tingling the palate with rhubarb, avocado and fennel accompaniments.
Joe does Kobe beef tips and braised short ribs together with a summer succotash in an appealing and comforting dish.
We ate his halibut with morels and finished with the stilton cheesecake with candied walnuts and buckwheat honey drizzle.
The next guest chef dinner is set for Sept. 5. It will feature Creed Salisbury, Ron’s son who has gotten the Cat & the Custard Cup into the pages of national food magazines, major newspapers and made it a bona fide dining destination.
On Oct. 3, the lady chefs from Border Grill and Ciudad fame, Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken, are set to cook.
In the fall, there will be gatherings at the restaurant with celebrated sports figures that join Ron and his crew in fund-raising efforts. Those are big draws that benefit the community so much.
When the schedule is set, I will put a note in my column,about September or October,so that you won’t miss that fun and flavor.
Authors also spend time with customers at the Cannery and autograph their books.
On Sunday, Aug. 27, from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Wally Amos will be signing his latest book, “Be Positive! Insights on How to Live an Inspiring and Joy-filled Life.”
You can purchase one there for $25 or bring your own. Wally, of course, is the founder of Famous Amos Cookies who has gone on to be a positive force in many ways for many people.
This would be a fine time to stay for brunch, an a la carte affair that features things like cr & #269;me br & #369;l & #233;e French toast, New England lobster roll, crab cakes Benedict, blue corn enchiladas, seafood omelets and opulent brunch salads.
The Cannery is a Newport Beach hotspot for lunch.
The long menu starts with specialties of Mexican white shrimp, satay of Kobe steak, steamed clams or mussels and a swell salad with baked brie tucked among the dozen appetizers.
For entrees, chile-charred fish tacos, wild salmon, bouillabaisse, a fine grilled seafood sandwich, a good array of salads and the best calamari steak join beef tournedos with gorgonzola cheese as recommendations.
Dinner is an affair that finds us taking time for a before-dinner cocktail.
My usual martini isn’t what I order here because the margaritas are so good. Sometimes I’m torn between sitting at the sushi bar and in the dining room.
Let’s concentrate on the dining room menu.
Even at the table we can have a rainbow roll or crunchy roll delivered from the sushi bar. A cold seafood platter of lobster, shrimp, crab and oysters also is a good summery beginning.
A crisp m & #233;lange of greens with cold shellfish or topped with grilled seafood always is welcome.
You must not miss the wonderful oven-roasted Bosc pear ravioli. Their satisfying m & #233;lange brings together candied walnuts, muscat grapes and artisanal blue cheese.
Shishito chiles highlight the charred ahi tuna entree. Lamb chops are grilled over wood and dappled with a thyme reduction sauce.
Only the best abalone makes the menu: Baja pink abalone with shiitake mushrooms, capers and lime butter sauce.
Veal and steak are on the menu and the seafood selection is broad.
What sets much of this cuisine apart is the presentation and sauces.
Felix is lucky to have sous chef Jo Dijamco at his side. Together, they give us a whole new seafood and meat adventure.
In a fantastic bargain for the public, at lunch Monday through Friday and on Tuesday evenings, there are 50 wines from the wine list that are 50% off their regular price.
Considering that this restaurant already uses only a small markup on their California and international wine list, all of them are a bargain at any time.
If there’s room left for desserts, cakes, tarts, ice creams and sorbets amuse the sweet tooth. If not, there’s a sweet reward anyway.
This is such a friendly restaurant with a wide appeal that one meal will probably turn you into a loyal customer. It has just the right mix of romance, casually chic waterfront location, fine food, unexpected adventures and that always welcoming feeling.
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The Cannery: all-weather patio for dining on the water |
AT A GLANCE – CANNERY, SEAFOOD OF THE PACIFIC
Address: 3010 Lafayette Road,
Newport Beach
Phone: (949) 566-0060
Cost: Lunch appetizers $7 to $15, entrees $12 to $24; dinner appetizers $11 to $24, entrees $20 to $38; brunch appetizers $7 to $10,
entrees $13 to $24
Parking: valet or street parking
