When Pelican Hill Grill and Golf Club opened earlier this month, it was quickly apparent that not only the day, but the week belonged to the newest star quality dining and golfing attraction.
We admittedly expected a lot from The Irvine Company since the county’s been buzzing with anticipation during the past year as the grill and golf club took shape, the first phase in the redevelopment of the Resort at Pelican Hill. And they delivered big time.
The finished grill and club house is truly in a league of its own as the building’s Palladian beauty and the two stunning 18-hole golf courses designed by Tom Fazio literally have guests catching their breath at the elan that speaks of money, good taste and a finely tuned respect for understated elegance.
As opening week unfolded, I heard from friends with homes in Newport Coast who were filled with enthusiasm about having their own mecca of dining and a world-class golf course that would bring more fame to the area. I quickly got the impression that it was going to be a nearby joy for them and an especially persuasive destination for the rest of us.
This has been one of the few times I’ve felt absolutely compelled to go back immediately to a new venue and soak up more of the finesse and try the food,not for writing about it, but just to be in that cocoon of a stately but inviting atmosphere again. I am still soaking it all up and want to do it over again.
When restaurants open, I almost always skip the intro sessions, mostly cattle calls where people crowd in for free drinks and dwindling food on trays. In fact, I normally wait a few weeks to go in and eat. But with such a dramatic property to be seen, I rather reluctantly attended an open house event.
The Irvine Co., showing a real sense of class, kept the introductory groups very small so that everyone could actually soak up the meaning and the aura. And the company was ready for prime time in every way when opening day for the public rolled around.
Within a few hours of seeing it, I was perusing my agenda book to see how quickly we could manage time for lunch or dinner. From that first meal in that first week, we discovered that several Newport Coast residents had eaten multiple meals. Sitting beside us was a party of eight that had been in three times in five days. One golfer and his wife admitted to having been there four times already, “Because we are having a good time eating in different areas in the dining rooms, on the patio for lunch and in the bar; we’re trying out everything.”
Sounds like my own reasoning, as I look forward to finding my own favorite niches.
The old grill and golfing facility was a bit farther up an unadorned Pelican Hill Road than its successor. Now, giant stone arches span the road just as you turn off Newport Coast signaling the entrance to the new grill and golf club on the right, accessed by a finely paved drive beset with greenery and transplanted olive trees. It’s a good first impression but just a thimble of the drama yet to unfold for guests. I guess what I’m really saying is get yourself there, fast.
Who would expect a golf course-adjacent restaurant to be set with elegant high-backed booths and expensive linens with couture finished hems? That’s what Pelican Hill offers.
Through soaring arches, the main dining room adjoins another containing a massive Italian limestone fireplace a with hand-carved facade. Ceilings reach great heights and are heavily accented by alder, the wood that is also used throughout the building for paneling and framing. A wall that seems to go on forever,it spans two dining rooms and the entire cocktail lounge and bar area,features ceiling-high Palladian windows that allow panoramic views of lush greens. On the exterior of these windows is the terrace seating that’s given the extra comfort of heated floors.
As much as I enjoyed the dining rooms, the lounge is calling my name to come back for my next trip. It’s one great affair with leather walls, yet another eye-catching fireplace and a granite bar to die for, the front of which is made of backlit onyx,all the better to show off a collection of R & #233;my Martin Louis XIII cognacs.
Since one can order food from the full menu while seated at the bar, that’s my next stop. Also, with all the plush seating around the room in club chairs and such, I can’t wait to watch a sporting event here. There are two enormous screens at the front of the room, each of which can have several events on at one time, but come one of the big, all-consuming events, this high-definition way of watching will be the epitome.
Having mentioned Palladian elements in this architecture, just in case you’ve missed the history of that style, it emanates from Italy’s most acclaimed architect of the High Renaissance period, Andrea Palladio. He based his style on the classic building principles used in ancient Rome and Greece and his eloquent adaptation of the past led him to becoming the most well-known architect in the design of the city of Venice, Italy.
The chef is Thomas Ryan, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America who, among some impressive stints, has worked as an executive chef with Ritz-Carlton Hotel Co. and has been invited twice to cook at America’s icon of culinary appreciation, the James Beard House in New York. His most modern and large open kitchen at Pelican Grill impresses upon us a commitment to food. Thomas has devised a menu that has a definite comfort factor and is based on premier quality products, many of which are locally sourced. Admittedly, you have to force yourself to look away from the ambiance and get serious about ordering, but it’ll happen.
We love that the prices for both food and wine are quite friendly. Many of the same items appear on both the lunch and dinner menus. I’d suggest that everyone have the prawn cocktail. They don’t fool around with dainty stuff; these are four giant prawns tucked in a large vase made of ice. They are blessedly firm and toothy and fresh.
Soups are a chilled gazpacho with a silky avocado topping and a spicier one with tortilla chips and chicken that also features avocado (from the Irvine Ranch). They don’t shy away from reminding us that this is the home to very friendly dining and that means pizzas and some pasta dishes are available at both lunch and dinner. When topped with such fine quality stuff and with adequately crispy crusts, the pizzas are dandy. My current recommendation is the fennel and sausage one that intersperses the flavors of roasted peppers and scallions with some ricotta salata. The rich and punchy flavor of the al dente pappardelle pasta with lemon-thyme cream, fresh peas and pecorino cheese is a sure bet. For a less caloric fix, spaghetti with a straightforward pomodoro sauce also is viable.
I have yet to get through the sandwiches and many of the salads so I’m relaying recommendations from other diners. One local who was thrilled with her tempura red king crab Louis salad. She was almost tumbling over her words as she talked about the plump prawns, the flavor of the crab and the organic lettuces dressed with “just the right amount” of dressing. I like the sound of the salad made with barbecued chicken, glazed cashews and roasted sweet peppers.
Sandwiches are not the run-of-the-mill variety according to their names. They all come with a choice of potato, cole slaw or salad. The burger is made with 10 ounces of prime sirloin of beef (or ground fresh turkey). A chicken club is tucked with meat from a tequila brined bird. Corned beef with a unique take on sauerkraut is crisped panini style. Fresh swordfish is the main ingredient of still another sandwich that sounds quite good and the shaved prime rib item is presented on a fresh soft pretzel roll.
The latter reminds me to mention that the bread presentation comes as four different shapes and flavored rolls,small baguette of country olive bread, a rosemary roll, one hinting of curry and one of those addictive pretzel baguettes.
As to main courses, the meats and fish are listed with a selection of sauces, according to your mood. We asked to have a small amount of each because it was hard to know whether the roasted shallot-pinot noir sauce, plum chutney, Mandarin-mustard reduction or peppercorn citrus sauce would best highlight our main dishes. I think you have to discuss the possibilities with your server and rely on what piques your interest at the moment.
Everybody is doing short ribs. This version is two big chunks of oh-so tender beef with root vegetables. We tried bites with all of the sauces to get an idea of the concept. We could not finish our food as the portions are very generous. I have swayed toward the lamb chops and I think they’ll be my choice when I dine at the bar. Steaks and pork chops and two kinds of slow roasted chicken are offered. Several kinds of seafood and shellfish round out things. I have had the seared ahi tuna comprising two manly-sized sushi grade chunks and seasonal vegetables.
If you have room for dessert, there are several choices. We’ve wandered through a few. What might interest you most is that the wine list is almost totally California driven and representative of all of our acclaimed appellations. Prices are friendly to the max.
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Of course, service is first class. Employees, though they were all professionals before being hired, were put through what they describe as the most intensive training they could imagine before the opening; and it shows. When you are there, ask for Robert or Alex who run the dining rooms and tell them you read about Pelican Grill in my column. They’ll be delighted to have the mutual friendship contact.
AT A GLANCE – Pelican Grill
Address: 22701 Pelican Hill Road South
Newport Coast
Phone: (949) 467-6800
Hours: In the dining rooms: lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., dinner from 5 p.m.
Meals in the cocktail lounge: 11 a.m. untill late night closing
Prices: Appetizers, salads and soups: $10 to $16, entrees $14 to $36
Wines: some 20 half bottles at all times from $20 to $75.
Parking: Valet
