My first impression of The Veggie Grill in Irvine: a friendly and unpretentious place that parlays easy relaxation with lots of customers consuming good looking food.
A cursory overview revealed clean lines with the main decor made of wooden slats and swaths of enticing color melding in pleasant eye-appeal.
Another positive was watching the two fellows in casual business attire wandering from table to table, visiting with guests who appeared happy to chat with them. Many seemed like friends of theirs.
That was a few months ago. By now we’re used to the restaurant, the food and T.K. Pillan and Kevin Boylan, the two hands-on owners making more friends every day.
When the two, along with a third partner, Ray White, were ready to launch their idea last fall, they chose Orange County. University Center across from the University of California, Irvine, gained the “next step in the evolution of American dining,” as they describe their effort.
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Veggie Grill: clean lines, decor made of wooden slats, enticing color |
The whole idea behind The Veggie Grill is that it is possible to create healthy food in a manner that delivers wonderful flavor in appealing presentations. The vibrant array of diners ordering the sweet potato fries, the various salads, sandwiches with traditional names and desserts is testament that eating vegetarian food can be as delicious and satisfying as any meat and dairy packed meal.
This wholesome, high quality food is way beyond what most of us imagined anything remotely vegetarian could be.
It all began when Internet entrepreneur T.K. and investment firm owner Kevin, both health-conscious guys, were looking for fully satisfying food that fit in with their philosophy about staying as healthy as possible.
They conferred with Ray, a successful restaurateur for 30 years. Around 1989, he discovered what monks in Asia had known and enjoyed for a long time: food made without meat products is capable of imitating meat and poultry, and even dairy in a delectable way. Unfortunately, until recently, we in the U.S. have known bland, unimaginative food of this genre, while savvy travelers have sought out the distinguished food of the monks.
T.K. and Kevin added Ray as a partner and have given us the gourmet tastes our sophisticated palates yearn for. Since T.K. was one of the founders of Native Foods restaurants and his first love is in recipe and menu development, he’s spending his time in the kitchen wowing us with this food that is maintaining high customer loyalty.
I’d heard beforehand about the sweetheart fries, which are sweet potato sticks served with a chipotle ranch dressing. It was my first taste of anything at the restaurant and set a good standard. The spring mix salad also serves as a good beginning since it’s not as big as the entree salads and the mix of seasonal boutique greens with corn salsa, carrots and sunflower sprouts is a stimulating quartet of tastes and textures.
Most certainly, one needn’t feel deprived of meat or its flavors here. The savory essence of freshly roasted chicken and beef emerges in many of the items. Here’s how it’s done: 100% wheat protein is textured like roast beef and tastes like it. What you believe to be chicken is a marinated and grilled protein blend that looks and tastes like the real bird. Soft and mushy tofu does not exist on this surprising menu.
If you are an entree salad person, then the chopped salad of “meat” and “chicken” with vegetables is a good combo. One salad is based on Baja and tropical flavors. Another features spinach with caramelized onion, veggie ham and mushrooms. Along with bowls of soup (a daily version and the white bean soup that is always on the menu), these constitute light dining with high flavor.
Sandwiches also are satisfying encounters. All are served on a whole wheat bun with a side of slaw (a trio of possible side substitutions can be ordered for $1.50). There’s a carne asada sandwich, a burger, a Balinese delight and a barbecue Texas style affair. I’ve not had all of them but vouch for the stand up quality of those I have tried.
We did have the Philly steak with mushrooms and peppers, caramelized onions and cashew cheese. It was a treat, so like the real Philly deal. One would swear by the true Italian nature of the “sausage” and Portobello mushroom sandwich too. Several other sandwiches tout good ingredients and reasons to order them.
My taste buds love coconut, pineapple and other tropical flavors. That leads me directly to a dish called island getaway that incorporates batter-dipped tempeh,a blend of organic soybeans, grains and rice culture that is grilled or lightly fried,with teriyaki glazed pineapple. It’s like being in Hawaii.
In quite a diverse enjoyment, I’m a fan of the side order of steamin’ kale. That goes back to my childhood, parts of which were spent in the South where we learned the charms of eating greens. In this version, the kale is topped with a ginger-miso dressing and sprinkled with sesame seeds, two other tastes that are at home with my palate.
Desserts also hold their own. The carrot cake is so good it is hard to believe it’s healthy, too. Cheesecake is another crowd pleaser.
This is a hometown sociable restaurant and a good addition to our dining scene. It is a surprise of good taste and healthfulness with a twist that must be tried to be fully appreciated. The food here makes me happy and observing a customer tell the owner how many times he’s eaten at the restaurant since discovering it is icing on my day. The food has been described as “sockingly delicious” by chef Jamie Gwen, Southern California’s most famous radio food personality and author. I’m in her corner.
The Veggie Grill: Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. for dine in or take out. Starters $3.50 to $5.95. Entree salads, sandwiches and specialty dishes $4.50 to $8.95. It’s at 4213 Campus Drive, Irvine, (949) 509-0003.
