I’ve been watching closely what’s happening at The Clubhouse in South Coast Plaza since it was taken over by a new group in 2001.
When friends, whose palates I trust, started calling me, saying that it was better than before, and when that was punctuated by an occasional e-mail from one of my serious readers saying that they too were enjoying the new attitude and the new menu, I paid attention.
It took me several trips and all these months to try a lot of the food, test the consistency of the kitchen, watch the sense of teamwork and the camaraderie that weave through the crew and take in the overall atmosphere.
This Clubhouse, the original in Chicago and one in Atlanta were bought when the original owners slid into bankruptcy after a two-year run, even though they bandied about the names of Kevin Costner, Robert Wagner and a couple of famous golfers as part of the team.
The celebrities, mostly lending their names to garner publicity for the restaurants, had nothing to offer in the food department or the running of the restaurants. The operation missed the mark.
The new partnership has tapped into the hometown restaurant feeling that we love. The same combination of chic casualness downstairs and gorgeous sink-in looks and comfort upstairs prevails. However, managing partner Jim Hall, who was here with the former owners and kept on in the turnover in a more important capacity because of his industry and people skills, now leads a happy team that is basking in the growth of the restaurant.
The new attitude shows. Meanwhile, star power is evident. Jerry Bruckheimer, Bob Costas, Joe Montana, LeAnn Rimes and Jennifer Love Hewitt are on the list of sightings.
Originally from New Jersey, Jim brings a heavy-duty restaurant resume to this establishment. Likewise, chef Scott Luebcke graduated cum laude from the Culinary Institute of America and worked in high-maintenance properties on his way to The Clubhouse. Scott took an in-depth look at what was going on in Orange County restaurants and sat down with Jim to revamp the kitchen.
Scott’s new menu takes us on a march through a lot of delicious food and gives ample attention to presentation.
Food choices are the same in the more casual atmosphere of the downstairs bar/lounge/ cafe area and the richly decorated upstairs dining room.
I can’t think of a better way to jump into the goodies of The Clubhouse than to mention that on the first Friday of each month, there’s a complimentary buffet from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. with live jazz. There’s also live music Thursday and Friday evenings from 7 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Martinis? Try 70 kinds here, including one of my favorites, the Citadel. Appetizers and martinis are discounted weekdays from 3:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m., and again from 9:30 p.m. to closing. There also are Early Bird-priced meals.
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Clubhouse: richly decorated upstairs, casual downstairs |
Scott’s menu is based on traditional American favorites tinged with his own California flair. Healthy choices and fresh ingredients are key.
Who can argue with a menu that takes us through several kinds of fresh fish, a separate category of steaks, chops and ribs, some signature dishes indigenous to this kitchen, even sandwiches and a big variety of salads that are available at lunch and dinner?
There are about 100 selections of wine, with 30 served by the glass. It’s a nicely honed list, with mostly American selections and a few French and Italian wines. Plenty of bottles are $20 to $30.
There’s a great variety of appetizers. Pan-seared lump crab cakes come crispy and golden with roasted corn and jalape & #324;o sauce. Calamari with sweet chile ginger glaze is a fine flavor profile with either my first glass of wine or a martini.
A classic shrimp cocktail comes jumbo sized. Coconut shrimp are enticingly crunchy and have a perfect spicy plum sauce for dipping. Chicken wraps Thai style add international punch. If you like spinach and artichoke dip, this one does it better by way of arriving flamb & #233; fashion. Bruschetta is grilled Tuscan bread topped with chopped tomatoes, garlic, basil, arugula and red onion that have been tossed in olive oil and drizzled with good balsamic vinegar.
Some friends and I recently were dazzled by the soup of the day: a rich, silky winter squash potage with every seasonal essence clinging to the spoon.
One of the tremendously appealing things about this menu is the availability of sandwiches anytime. Some of us had the Kobe beef burger, sometimes offered as a special. This is nirvana: eight ounces of the specialty beef tucked in a large, fresh brioche roll with the amenities of caramelized onions, watercress, Monterey jack cheese and garlic aioli.
The honey glazed pork sandwich is far from ordinary as is the Portobello mushroom and steak stack club sandwich. As for salads, if you can’t find something that piques your curiosity here, you are a very picky eater indeed.
There’s a lot of variety in the entrees. The meat loaf with mashed potatoes, wild mushroom bordelaise and succotash of vegetables is very popular. The potpie is a large baked casserole dish in which lots of flavorful chicken and vegetables huddle beneath a mashed potato and parmesan cheese crust.
Pasta dishes are offered, of course. The Clubhouse’s signature orange-basil salmon is a new treat for the palate. I was happy with the hoisin marinated ahi tuna, cooked rare. Shrimp scampi and lobster risotto are stand up shellfish dishes.
As for meats, I’ve had the Cajun spiced rib eye steak twice and will do that again. Ditto the bourbon-glazed double cut pork chop that is slow roasted and a tribute to how good pork can be. Several kinds of steaks also are in the running.
Homemade desserts are big and bold and worth every calorie. The intensely chocolate giant wedge of cake with creamy frosting is like licking the bowl of the last dredges of chocolate decadence when you were a child. The slice of N.Y-style cheesecake is bigger and better than most. A sundae overflows with ice cream, whipped cream and more, good for sharing with a few others at the table.
The restaurant is a nice place to have Sunday Brunch. And we’ll be having our family Thanksgiving dinner there. Added to mealtime or cocktail meanderings, The Clubhouse has at least one wine dinner per month.
As the holidays are coming, be aware that there are five distinct and fabulous banquet rooms. Off-site catering also is part of The Clubhouse’s milieu.
The restaurant is involved in four charity golf tournaments benefiting South Coast Children’s Society.
Where to sit? Booth 207 upstairs is good,it has a view. But the big corner booth, number 208, is where I often find myself comfortably tucked with business friends. For sheer intimacy, there’s the tiny room for two, table 101 downstairs. Consider this a little world apart to use for a romantic occasion.
The Clubhouse’s valued member card is well worth the $20. You’ll immediately receive a $25 gift card toward a second visit. When a birthday or a membership anniversary rolls around, members get $50 toward wine. Members also get priority seating. Sign up at www.clubhouse.com/Costa_Mesa.
Fiesta Time
El Cholo is honoring teachers, police officers and firefighters with a free dinner from 5 p.m. until closing tonight as part of its 81st anniversary celebration.
Proceeds from meals bought by friends, family and guests will be donated to local charities.
There are Orange County El Cholo restaurants in Irvine and La Habra. Ron Salisbury, now a legend in the national restaurant industry, and his sons operate the original family restaurant and the others that they have opened along the way. Local charities benefiting from the evening are St. Jude Medical Center and Orangewood Children’s Home.
Here’s a bit of El Cholo history. In 1923, Alejandro and Rosa Borquez founded the first El Cholo in Los Angeles. George Salisbury and Aurelia Borquez, daughter of Alejandro and Rosa, opened El Cholo Spanish Cafe on Western Avenue in Los Angeles in 1927. The restaurant moved across the street four years later to 1121 S. Western Ave., where it still operates today and remains a favorite spot of movie and TV celebrities, politicians and sports figures.
Waitress Carmen Rocha introduced a favorite crunchy treat of hers to El Cholo’s customers in 1959,nachos. Today, the cantina at the Western Avenue El Cholo is named in her honor. The first signature El Cholo Margarita debuted in 1967 and we all know how famous those have become.
In 1979, the Salisbury family opened The Cat & The Custard Cup in La Habra in an English manor-style house. Only in 2000 did central Orange County get its El Cholo, with the Irvine opening. Ron bought The Cannery in Newport Beach in 2002, restoring the historic restaurant and adding punctuation to Newport’s fine dining scene.
Bring appropriate identification at any of the five El Cholos in Orange and Los Angeles Counties for the free dinner.
More information: Call (949) 451-0044 for the Irvine restaurant; (562) 691-4618 for the La Habra El Cholo.
Note that the offer doesn’t include alcohol, tax or tip.
Art Scene Down South
Those interested in the cultural arts will find Artwave La Jolla of interest.
It’s a five-week affair that has the La Jolla Music Society, La Jolla Playhouse and Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego joining forces with top restaurants and hotels.
Restaurants involved in the festival include George’s at the Cove and Roppongi, with hotel partners The Lodge at Torrey Pines, La Valencia Hotel and La Jolla Beach and Tennis Club.
We love the creative food at both of those restaurants and you certainly have fine lodging at the participating hotels.
Package rates for two for a special weekend Nov. 5-7 start at $1,105. They feature behind-the-scenes tours, dinners with artistic guests, complimentary gift bags worth more than $150, a two-night hotel stay (based on double occupancy), gourmet dining and admittance and priority seating at arts events. Rates include tax and tip, as well as parking fees for the hotels.
Visit www.artwavelajolla.com or call La Jolla Playhouse at (858) 550-1010 for more information.
AT A GLANCE
THE CLUBHOUSE
Address: 3333 Bristol, Costa Mesa
Phone: (714) 708-2582;
Cost: appetizers $5.95-$13.95; sandwiches $9.50-$13.95; lunch entrees $8.95-$16.95; dinner entrees $12.95-$30.95
Special events: free buffet with live jazz first Friday of each month; Sunday brunch; Thanksgiving Day buffet
