I recently checked in with 2018 OCBJ Chefs of the Year Florent and Amelia Marneau. Their restaurant Marché Moderne in Crystal Cove Shopping Center has embraced al fresco dining—but then the French do love their outdoor experiences.
Fellow foodie Della Lisi and I dined there recently, and we were happy to see Marché Moderne as busy as ever, thanks to their spacious existing patio and additional tables placed on the sidewalk in front of the restaurant.
We started our evening with Schramsberg bubbly from Napa Valley, one of my favorites. Our delightful server suggested pairing that with blinis and caviar—an excellent recommendation.
Then it was on to entrées and red wine. Della ordered coq au vin with linguini, paired with a sturdy pinot noir. I had my palate set on Le Big M&M Burger since I heard they added it to the menu, but I wavered when I heard the rabbit special that evening. I love how Chef Florent Marneau prepares his traditional rabbit dishes, but the burger won out. So did a glass of Bordeaux.
The M&M Burger starts with an 8oz patty comprised of brisket, short plate belly and short rib, and chuck roll. Add heirloom tomatoes, lettuce, truffle butter, peppers, pickled onion and cucumber, aged gruyere and fontina cheeses and sautéed mushrooms, all stuffed inside a brioche bun, and you have a hefty, juicy and decadent $28 burger, accompanied by pommes frites.
The burger had a delightful crunch from the crisp lettuce and cucumber, giving it more dimensions than a regular burger. Della told me I had a smile on my face during the short time it took to devour the burger.
We shared one of Amelia Marneau’s wonderful desserts: summer peach upside down gateau with late harvest wine ice cream. It arrived as edible art on a plate, almost too pretty to disturb but we made quick work of this delicate dish.
The wait staff, chefs and GM all adhered to proper COVID guidelines, people were seated at appropriate distances, and everyone seemed to be having a good time. The service was, as always, outstanding. Marché Moderne continues to be the best French restaurant in Southern California, and easily one of my top five, period.
Marché Moderne: 7862 Pacific Coast Highway, Newport Beach, (714) 434-7900, marchemoderne.net
