“Knew her almost 30 years. One of the most important people I’ve known for the business I’m in. And then she became a friend. She knew so much about this business, who’s doing what, what direction I, the industry should take. Her column taught us. A wonderful person.”
—John Ghoukassian, owner, Bistango, Bayside Restaurants
“42 years. I opened Antonello three years after I met her. I was at Ambrosia at South Coast Plaza, 1975. She helped give me the confidence. We have a lot of stories. We would discuss new recipes, truffles, Bagna Cauda, she knew food. But she was very honest. What a loss. Fifi wasn’t just a friend to the restaurant business. Fifi was a big part of Orange County.”
—Antonio Cagnolo, owner, Antonello’s Ristorante
“Fifi and I have a long history back in the Ritz days. I was a chef in 2003. Fifi came into the Ritz—you were on your toes all the time. And she was not scary at all. I was expecting a Chinese lady. I said, ‘Wait a minute, she’s white.’ I left Ritz in 2006, opened Break of Dawn. She was like a mother to me. She would tell you straight up if you f up, like a mother. Very real. She appreciated inventiveness. Break of Dawn was so different, just breakfast and lunch, very eclectic, not copyable … she was an old soul but very modern, very up to date. Appreciates the classics—but also us—the new kids on the block.”
—Dee Nguyen, chef-owner, Break of Dawn
“Shannon Jones, our general manager found this in an email she sent to me a few years back—her advice and passion for this industry really resonated with all of us who ever had the privilege to know her. It really sums up Fifi—in her own words:
‘Someone once said to me, ‘As much as you talk, no wonder you can write!’ I’ll take it … LOL. Bottom line for me is that we can work together and really show off. I come totally from a standpoint of ‘complete passion’ about the sensibility, tastes and presentation of food. Patrick and I have been to many places on the Crystal Cruise ships when I’ve served as guest chef on board for a wide variety of their itineraries. I’m drenched in my love of cooking and fine food and I certainly appreciate what you all do and the hard work your job entails.
Thank you for honoring her.”
—Natalie Ostenson, president, Andrei’s Restaurant Corp.
“This week we lost a special friend of ours of 35 years. She was a great friend of the hospitality industry, the legend, the icon, FIFI CHAO. One of the best restaurant writers I have ever known. We wish her a great trip to heaven. We will miss her a lot. The respect that I had for her was HUGE. Every time she wrote about any restaurant, she never tried to write negatively about a restaurant and risk putting them out of business. Fifi once told me if she did not like a restaurant, she just wouldn’t write about that restaurant.
Fifi understood the passion, money and drive each restaurateur invests, how difficult our business is to keep our doors open each day. Her articles spread the word of each restaurateur’s love of their restaurant.
Thank you Fifi. Ciao for now. Until we meet again.”
—Bruno Serato, chef-owner, Anaheim White House
“Our angel. She was like a mommy, I got very close to her. A person not ever to be forgotten. Her legacy will stay. The grandmother of the restaurant business in Orange County.”
—Allesandro Pirozzi, chef-owner, Allesa, Pirozzi, Salerno’s
“Many years ago I was catering out of my house. Met Fifi through mutual friends. Then I opened the restaurant, 1987. There were hardly any restaurants, people were yearning for homemade food, and our restaurant was simple, farm-to-table, her writing brought worthy places to peoples’ attention. Fifi’s Dinesty Club hosted several events here. We all followed our careers together. She was the best storyteller. It might be an hour, we used to laugh, gossip and then say, ‘OK all safe here.’ We’d talk about how the food season is going.
I had no idea she was sick. I saw her three weeks ago. We were talking about food, telling stories. I really think she thought she was going to be fine—mutual love and respect for each other—both passionate about our careers.”
—Zov Karamardian, founder of Zov’s Restaurants
“A few years ago at a company holiday event, either I or my wife asked Fifi her opinion on our favorite OC restaurant, Stonehill Tavern at Monarch Beach Resort.
‘Stonehill?’ Fifi questioned. ‘Too frou-frou.’
I believe she also wrinkled her nose.
I’m certainly not going to question our legendary food critic’s take on the exclusive spot in Dana Point, overseen by James Beard award-winning chef Michael Mina.
Is Stonehill heavy on glitz and food presentation? Absolutely. Ornate tasting menus featuring plenty of foods many have likely never heard of? Check. Expensive? Very.
Was it worth it? Definitely, even when compared to other area restaurants that Fifi generously took the time to recommend to us that night—my reporter’s notebook in hand—just about all of which we would go on to try afterwards.
Real estate stories aside, Fifi’s work was always the first thing I read when getting our paper on Monday.
At the end of the year, Stonehill Tavern will be getting a makeover. It’ll be converted into a Bourbon Steak, a Mina-led steakhouse that has other locations, the closest being in Glendale.
While some classic menu items from Stonehill will remain, as will the tasting menu, the changes are expected to make the new restaurant a little less formal, I’ve been told.
I think Fifi would have loved it.”
—Mark Mueller, reporter, foodie, friend of Fifi
“Fifi was the center of our OC culinary universe—there isn’t another person with a more thorough understanding and appreciation of the local food scene. We want to show her family the same support she showed to us.”
— Dee Nguyen
The Menu – FIFI’S BEST Pop-Up Dinner
Dean Kim, OC Baking Co.
Bread: lardo, leek, maple, anchovy
Joel Harrington, Lido Bottle Works
Scallop: cauliflower, miso, truffle, yuzu
Greg Daniels, Haven Gastropub
Foie Gras: huckleberry, matsutake, barley
Yvon Goetz, The Winery
Black Cod: octopus, merguez, flageolet
Amar Santana, Vaca/Broadway
Duck: “bastilla,” chestnut, kumquat
Rainer Schwartz, Hendrix/Driftwood Kitchen
Snake River Farms Tenderloin: wild mushrooms, salsify, Napa wine love
Dee Nguyen, Break of Dawn
Cookie and Cream: corn, persimmon, enoki
Tarit Tanjasiri, Crema Cafe
Tarte Tatin: vanilla bean
The FIFI’S BEST pop-up dinner on Nov. 30 at Break of Dawn restaurant in Laguna Hills is limited to 66 guests and tickets are being sold for $200 per seat. Those interested in attending can email Chef Dee Nguyen at dee.breakofdawn@gmail.com. Special thanks to Sysco Foods for their product donation for this dinner.
