When we travel we enjoy the food indigenous to the territory, but somewhere along the way we begin to think of the food we want to have when returning home.
On a recent two-week trip to Canada and Alaska, I suddenly realized that we’d spoken on two occasions of going home to the food conveyed by the Ghoukassian family in their three restaurants.
Bistango, the flagship in Irvine, is celebrating its 25th anniversary. The restaurant, when it opened in 1987, ushered in an era of unique dining establishments that upended the “continental” places then the norm.
Most of those restaurants are gone, but the nouveau-modern beauty and intriguing food of Bistango endures.
On our latest visit, we sat surrounded by a vast gallery of artwork from acclaimed artists, changed seasonally, in a space that blends a tinge of elegant café ambiance with the art. We sometimes have lunch at Bistango, a tremendously popular business and get-together midday spot, but this time indulged with dinner. Live music plays nightly, soft enough not to interfere with conversation but lively enough to get a few people up to dance in the adjacent lounge.
Executive Chef Xavier Montoya has been there since the beginning, and I like having him send out dishes that he is most passionate about. But there are a few new things on the menu that caught my eye this time.
The salad of Belgian endive, Fuji apple and walnuts with Black River gorgonzola vinaigrette sounded wonderful.
And in the pasta category, there’s now Japanese pumpkin providing a savory filling for ravioli with a fresh sage and brown butter sauce, with cranberry compote on the side.
We just came from salmon country, and I was intrigued by the king salmon dish now on this fall menu. Its tamarind-chile glaze sounds like a fine highlight to such a stellar piece of fish.
Ah, but there’s also now a Bistango specialty-steak-and-chop category on the new menu. Prime aged beef comes in some fine cuts, and there’s a 14-ounce Berkshire pork chop.
We manage our way through a long evening every time, and this was no exception. It was time to relax over the meal, a couple of glasses of wine from their extensive wine list, a little time between courses to savor the nice music and even a walkabout to have a closer look at the artwork presented throughout.
The New American cuisine permeating the whole menu adds finesse to familiar ingredients. Among my all-time favorite dishes in Orange County restaurants are these Bistango items: tartare of yellow fin tuna; green papaya and lobster salad; the best sweet garlic soup I’ve ever had; and risotto with white corn, pancetta and prawns.
At lunch there’s a two-course prix fixe for $21. The prix fixe options at dinner are three-courses for either $36 or $46, depending on choices.
A cup of premium coffee and a memorable pastel tres leches cake ended our recent evening. The latter not only has the requisite three kinds of milk absorbed in it but comes with a dollop of whipped cream and strawberry relish.
Bistango: 19100 Von Karman Ave., Irvine, (949) 752-5222.
Bayside Brunch
Bayside is the second restaurant opened by John Ghoukassian, his son Marc and daughter Karyn. It was launched in 1999.
I wrote about some of their new fall menu items in my August column.
The Newport Beach restaurant’s Sunday brunch is $29.95 and encompasses sparkling wine, a choice of starter, choice from 14 superb entrées such as Maine lobster sandwich, tiger prawns with green risotto, fresh fish, grilled lamb chops and Bayside benedict with either smoked salmon or Black Forest ham.
For dessert you must have the chocolate soufflé cake with homemade hazelnut ice cream.
Live music is a classy addition to the chic brunch food, and there is also live musical entertainment every evening.
Executive Chef Paul Gstrein adorns his American cuisine with tidbits of global influence. He’s dedicated to using the best ingredients for his highly acclaimed menu.
For extra interest there’s an Oktoberfest three-course dinner menu at $39.95.
There’s always a prix fixe evening menu of three courses for $49.75.
The airy and suave uptown look of Bayside felt very New York to me. It also has a changing art scene and a cocktail lounge and patio that I love as much as the main dining room.
Just the right amount of culinary drama complements it all.
Bayside: 900 Bayside Drive, Newport Beach, (949) 721-1222.
Kid Kimera
Kimera is the youngster in the Ghoukassian family, a cool concept boasting a forest of bamboo poles forming ceilings and walls with lounge-like patio dining, interesting indoor seating and a cocktail lounge that includes a beautiful and friendly bar.
When you want a restaurant reminiscent of some of the newer, urban chic dining spots hitting San Francisco, Kimera in Irvine has the concept.
Sliders of beef, chicken and fish cover a broader audience. For charcuterie and cheese plates, they’re on top of the game with lots of selections to choose from.
Don’t be surprised to find a bit of truffle essence wafting through a couple of dishes. The tuna poke is a terrific version that I could order at every meal.
This is really good food with a nod to something for everyone, from the casualness of a burger and a good slate of crusty pizzas to short ribs, lamb chops, fresh fish selections and steaks.
Kimera: 19530 Jamboree Road, Irvine, (949) 261-1222
Anaheim White House
Here we go again with another amazing accolade—this one from the Italian government—for Bruno Serato’s Anaheim White House, which also is marking a 25th anniversary.
This is the restaurant that each night sends out vans that has enough food to feed 300 needy kids nightly, a project he started in conjunction with the Boys & Girls Clubs of Anaheim.
It was the focus of two reports on national newscasts last year, but the accounts of owner Serato’s generosity over the years have been numerous.
Now, Bruno has been honored as a Knight Cavaliere Della Republica Italiana—courtesy of Italy’s president.
Besides having fed kids in need for several years, Bruno has been helping to get families out of motels and into apartments.
One of the impossibilities for most of these families crowded into one-room living quarters is saving for the first and last month of rent and security deposit required by landlords. Bruno has been part of an effort to help several families cover those costs.
Meantime, don’t even consider yourself a serious foodie if you haven’t been to Anaheim White House. It’s Italian with a touch of French.
It’s a beautiful place, with polished cuisine and professional, friendly service. I am proud to say that I’ve introduced many diners to this restaurant who have become major fans.
Its chef, Eddie Meza, was chosen as our OCBJ Chef of the Year in 2011.
The restaurant has a wonderful website—anaheimwhitehouse.com—with details of weekly specials and other interesting information.
Anaheim White House: 887 S. Anaheim Blvd., Anaheim, (714) 772-1381.
Coming Up
The Beaujolais Nouveau dinner at St. Regis Resort is coming up on Nov. 15. Beaujolais Nouveau represents the first vintage of the year released in France. The wines are rushed to restaurants in that country and put aboard planes for international consumption on the next day.
Tickets to the dinner: $85 per person. You must make reservations. Email jacqueline.doti@stregis.com to RSVP or call the resort directly. (I’d advise you do it quickly as this dinner sells out every year.)
St. Regis Resort: One Monarch Beach Resort, Dana Point, (949) 234-3200.
