Restaurant of the Year

Orange County is having an old-time love affair with Marche Moderne.

I cannot recall a restaurant that in its first year was talked about everywhere in such loving terms. And I was and still am one of the loudest voices. Just the other day, I made another reservation for lunch for five of us. We’ll take advantage of the three-course meal for $20, a deluxe midday experience every time. That price holds true Monday through Friday. On Saturday and Sunday, it’s $25.

The strength of this restaurant, which occupies a space on the somewhat obscure third level of South Coast Plaza, lies with a couple, both of whom are chefs. Florent Marneau is a native of Fontainebleau, France, a magical little city about 45 minutes south of Paris that’s also home to a magnificent castle. Florent came to America with cooking techniques from that region, which he honed working in some highly regarded kitchens, including Pascal in Newport Beach.

Amelia Marneau is an accomplished p & #226;tissier and graduate of Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. She has complemented the pastry factions at the Hotel de Crillon Paris, Grande Cascade Paris and the Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel, plus a couple of singular restaurants.

We became accustomed to seeing Florent and enjoying his food during his years as chef at Pinot Provence, where he mastered the flavors of Joachim Splichal’s restaurants.

Only when Florent left to open Marche Moderne last year could he claim full title to all the wonders on the savory side of the menu, while Amelia began to woo us with her sublime desserts.

Marche Moderne is such a complete package. When you walk in, it’s like stepping into a beautiful French bistro, with a more intimate feel. But unlike the notorious French hospitality, you are greeted with cheerful smiles.

Florent, who spends most of his time in the back, waves at customers from the open kitchen. Amelia is like a butterfly, going to tables and making sure that everyone is happy, then flitting into the kitchen to check on some of her pastries. Together, this couple spells restaurant success.

If you like seeing food as art on a plate, you won’t be disappointed. My camera has occasionally gotten a workout with me snapping away at plates before I let forks intrude. And, there are the prices, which are customer-friendly,even the diverse wine selection is affordable, both by the glass and by the bottle for many French boutique wines.

The charcuterie appetizer is a must. Placed with much care on a wooden board, and served as either a small portion or large portion for two or three people, this m & #233;lange is a concert for the senses. Delicate slices of artisanal prosciutto cuddle near a terrine of rillettes (a smooth spread of pork or rabbit) and another little compote dish holding pickled vegetables. A third compote holds a marvelous mustard cream. On the other side of the board are slices of Tuscan salami and chorizo and a generous slice of duck p & #226;t & #233;, along with toast rounds. Perfection!

Foie gras should be ordered in any form on the menu. Items or preparations of things change according to what’s seasonal and what’s fresh from the farm, or according to some sauce that currently enamors the chef. Another must,this one’s a good nibble to share with friends and a predinner glass of wine,is the Alsatian tart baked in the stone oven. Florent tops the crust with caramelized onions, cr & #269;me fra & #238;che, ham and Gruy & #269;re cheese. We easily succumb to its staunch and addictive flavors.

Salads as main courses for lunch or first courses for dinner are probably the best in OC right now with their fine greens, some with hearts of palm and nuts, beets and goat cheese and all with a flair far beyond the norm.

As for entrees, some that come to mind immediately are braised veal cheeks, free-range rabbit cooked in a casserole, pork belly in a rich reduction sauce (one of the best things I have ever eaten), boneless Colorado lamb shank braised with flageolet beans and roasted duck breast spruced up with wild mushrooms. I am also just remembering the superb beefy flavor of a steak that we ordered, which came in a quartet of slices that were perfectly pinkish red with a little hillock of creamy potatoes beneath it and our Maine lobster with a delicate ribbon of broth around it. Suffice to say that this is the bistro food of dreams that Florent turns into reality.

Of course, you will end your meal with something Amelia has made. Perhaps a delicate, open-faced tart made with plums or some other fine fruit of the season and a dollop of cr & #269;me fra & #238;che ice cream on the side will be offered. One evening we had some lovely nougat that Amelia had made and it was almost ethereal with the warm cookies from the oven and a few candied nuts sprinkled around.

Marche Moderne is racking up the accolades and we are happy to add Restaurant of the Year to its honors. It is one of the best things that has ever happened to OC dining.