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Thursday, Mar 28, 2024
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County Boasts Lunching Scene; Owners’, Chefs’ Favorite Dishes



Springtime is almost here and we’re discussing lunch. The rains have vanished, at least for the moment, and the sun is shining as I write this. It’s the kind of weather that makes me want to go out and have a lovely meal in the middle of the day.

This time, I’ve chosen a whole group of restaurants that are quite suited to a fun bite or a full business lunch. All of these restaurants lend themselves to dining for any reason, so you don’t have to pick and choose to get the right venue.

I thought it might be helpful to find out what menu items customers order most and use that as suggestions for consideration. In most cases, I also asked the chef his/her favorites from the menu.

Some of these restaurants offer prix fixe lunches (and dinners) that are real bargains. They all offer food that is impressive and surroundings that are interesting. Dine well, dine often and have a glass of wine for me.

ANTONELLO

3800 South Coast Plaza Drive (in South Coast Plaza Village)

Santa Ana

(714) 751-7153

Going strong since 1979 and still enthralling us with its all-encompassing Italian glamour, marvelous regional Italian fare and suave service, this restaurant owes such consistency to four people. There’s owner Antonio Cagnolo, chef Franco Barone, general manager Thad Foret, and sommelier Steve Ebol. This is like our Italian home away from home.

There’s no prix fixe menu but rather fetching a la carte selections, which the chef makes from pristine ingredients and time-honored recipes. Presentations are as artful as the surroundings.

You can try some lunch entrees that are popular with customers. How about making friends with the Burrata alla Caprese (fresh soft and buttery burrata cheese, served with slices of heirlooms, tomatoes, fresh basil, drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and sprinkled with oregano)? Ravioli d’ Aracosta con Gamberi e Capesante is another favorite. It’s a plate of homemade lobster-filled ravioli that are sauteed with chopped shrimp and scallops, in fresh tomato, garlic and basil sauce. Sogliola alla Milanese would be yet another that loyal customers order often,why not since this grilled filet of sole is a tender and light seafood entree topped with an Italian mix of parsley and parmesan cheese.

Chef and owner choices for entrees: Pappardelle con Porcini (homemade pasta ribbons with invigorating mushroom sauce) and Ravioletti Mamma Pina (mini veal stuffed ravioli with brown sage-butter sauce).

Some suggested wines by the glass for lunch would include Bridlewood 2004 Central Coast Syrah (a rich, fruit forward wine dancing with hints of chocolate in the finish), 2005 Brancaia Tre Sangiovese (a blended wine that is fully approachable yet full of character with serious structure) or Martin Ray 2005 Santa Barbara Pinot Noir (a well balanced, mouth-filling wine that goes with just about anything).


ARCHES GRILL & BBQ

508 29th St.

Newport Beach

(949) 645-7077

Owner Dan Marcheano recently made the big move to a smaller, more intimate version of this legendary restaurant after spending decades on Pacific Coast Highway. Trust me, this is a lovable place, where you can see and be seen.

The same signature steaks and seafoods and other tidbits of American cuisine fill out the menu and now there’s also some down- home tasty barbecue adding more dimension.

There’s a prix fixe lunch special at $19.95 with various items from which to choose. Aficionados of pulled pork know that it has to be braised and drop dead tender and then pulled apart by hand. Slathered with its own flavorful barbecue sauce (a specialty of Dan’s), this one is a winner and though new to the menu, it’s a big seller.

A cursory look at what others are eating might reveal a few plates of Pork Wings. These take-offs on chicken wings are cubes of pork with an artificial “bone” driven through them and then they’re barbecued and they are downright delicious.

Salads are big,literally and in sales,with their leanings toward longtime classics.

This is one of the places where I see a lot of lunchers having plates of Stone Crab Claws, Soft Shell Crab and a serving of veal here and there. It’s one of the few serving a dandy Monte Cristo Sandwich, so you might want to tackle one.

A few local restaurateurs like a wine called Saint M Riesling with their food. The wine’s from Chateau Ste. Michelle and made by the famed German winemaker Ernst Loosen. Here too, it’s a pick. Bianchi Petite Syrah is a big red wine with a beefy texture and dense fruit that will stand up to the barbecue and steaks. A third wine to consider might be a glass of Rivola de Duero (Spain), which is a hefty red blending of tempranillo and cabernet.

I have no idea what the chef and Dan would be eating for their lunch. Perhaps we were enjoying the wine too much and I forgot to ask.


BISTANGO

19100 Von Karman Ave.

Irvine

(949) 752-5222

This singularly beautiful restaurant and art exhibit combination just celebrated its 20th anniversary. It’s always been an acclaimed powerhouse place for business lunches and a sanguine location for personal midday meals.

Here you can have a two-course lunch for $19.75. Choose from two salads or their splendid sweet garlic soup to start and then pick from several entrees culled from the a la carte menu.

Mushroom Crusted Halibut on potato puree with asparagus, truffle essence and porcini mushroom sauce is popular. Pan-seared New Zealand Rack of Lamb with mashed potatoes, French green beans, baby carrots and Port wine reduction or the Mixed Seafood Paella (every Friday only at lunch) with Bilbao chorizo, English peas and roasted peppers is another best seller.

Professed favorites of owner John Ghoukassian, chef Javier Montoya and/or manager Ray Sanii are Seared Rare Sesame Crusted Ahi Tuna with Asian style vegetables, shiitake mushrooms and spicy soy-ginger vinaigrette and the Angus Beef Natural Hanger Steak flavorfully marinated and served with onion marmalade, baby arugula, truffle cheese, herbed shoestring fries and Pinot Noir reduction.

From an extensive list of wines by the glass, you might have a nice white to accompany the aforementioned food or whatever you pick from the menu. Groth Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley) has a vibrant melon fruitiness balanced by a clean crisp finish and the Bonny Doon 2005 Pacific Rim Riesling wraps together a crisp, fairly aromatic but comparatively dry m & #233;lange born of the noble grape. For a red, try the Ferrari-Carano Siena Sangiovese from Sonoma County. The deep ruby color begs to be paired with red meats and the rich berry flavors deliver an invigorating taste.


BLUEFIN

7952 E. Coast Highway

Newport Beach

(949) 715-7373

Bluefin is a uniquely innovative Japanese restaurant, the domain since mid-2005 of acclaimed chef Takashi Abe. Creative sushi meets hot entrees that carefully blend classical Japanese cuisine with more contemporary European influences. The restaurant is intimate and a favorite of discriminating diners.

It serves lunch every day,a good thing. Many lunch customers order the Bento Box Assortment,a classic black lacquer box with eight compartments containing specially prepared beef, chicken, sushi, sashimi, cooked fish, tempura, vegetables and salad. The well-liked Assorted Sushi Plate (can include yellowtail, albacore, salmon, halibut, blue fin tuna and some other daily fresh fish specials along with a choice of either a California roll or spicy tuna roll) is another suggestion. Everyone should experience the Toro Tartare with Caviar that is composed of minced toro with onion and garlic and crowned with osetra caviar.

The chef and partner Ted Lee claim the following among their personal favorites: Scallop Ravioli, which is thin slices of Japanese Hokkaido scallops wrapped around fresh uni (sea urchin) and served on a thin layer of basil herb oil, with a little osetra caviar on top; King Crab Claw Tempura, which is served with a truffle butter ponzu sauce and shichimi pepper.

Sakes are natural with this food, but not being an aficionado, I’ll stick with their recommendations for wine matches: Gr & #252;Ve by Jurtschitsch, a Gr & #252;ner Veltliner from Austria (light and lively with hints of white pepper aromas); Brassfield Estate Serenity from High Valley in Lake County (a classy blend of 70% sauvignon blanc, 25% pinot grigio and 5% gewurztraminer that is crisp, yet full-bodied); Santa Margherita Valdadige Pinot Grigio from Italy is a dry white wine with a clean, intense backbone that is very versatile.

This is a take-your-time place because this kind of food requires full anticipation and appreciation.


BREAK OF DAWN

24351 Avenida de la Carlota

Laguna Hills

(949) 587-9418

This is at the top of my favorite places. Here, the most unexpectedly wonderful, affordable and creative comfort food reigns in an unpretentious location in Orange County. To miss it is to miss one of life’s great meals. Owner/ chef Dee Nguyen,formerly the executive sous chef of the Ritz-Carlton, Laguna Niguel,continues to amaze us.

Only open for breakfast (180 degrees from what you perceive breakfast to be) and lunch, customers happily order the Coriander Cured Smoked Salmon with a French oatmeal cake and an herb-poached egg dappled with a preserved lemon-caper emulsion.

They also go for the Short Ribs that are ultra tender and surrounded with a mushroom and taro ragout and a bit of prickly ash pepper jus for another level of excitement. Braised Duck with the essence of chestnuts and goji berry sauce and Barbecue Pork with jalape & #324;o corn cake and tropical slaw are other crowd pleasers.

Since breakfast dishes are available at lunch, many of us order Cr & #269;me Br & #369;l & #233;e French Toast made from raisin-cinnamon brioche and sided with a creamy Mexican chocolate and coconut custard to die for.

Dee enjoys eating his version of Sausage and Rice. I love it myself. This dish is composed of Portuguese-Hawaiian sausage, aromatic rice, green papaya and sesame salad with two fried eggs. He also likes the simplicity of an omelet filled with any number of the complementary ingredients offered on the menu.

The wine list is concise but adequate for what Dee is cooking. Try a glass of the Valley of the Moon Pinot Blanc with crisp but gentle tropical notes and hazelnut and pear character meld with a clean crispness. St. Supery’s 2006 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc won the Best of Class in the New World International Wine Competition,a good reason to taste it.


BRISTOL PALMS California Bistro & Bar

3050 Bristol St.

Costa Mesa

(714) 438-4927

I’ve referred to this as the hidden gem so close to South Coast Plaza. Perhaps it has not been on your radar, but trust me, it has food, good service and a cosmopolitan chic that is so fine for lunch. First of all, I think of New York when I am in this hotel lobby (Orange County Costa Mesa Hilton) with its convivial lounge and soaring atrium. Yet, in reality, it captures the essence of California living. Should you be in the mood for truly casual dining sit at the restaurant’s pizza bar and be ready for your appetite to soar when you see and smell the delicious things coming from the wood burning oven.

One big seller is the Double Decker Club Sandwich that rises high with fine fillings and makes us new believers in old classics. Accompaniments are potatoes, salad or fruit. Kobe Burger also flies off the menu. The richly flavored specialty beef is enhanced by all the other internal components associated with burgers and one more flavor boost via the brioche bun. Like many, I am enamored of the Adobo Marinated Chicken Quesadilla (yes, it’s viable as a lunch entree) with its gourmet flavor stature because of the superb taste infused in the chicken.

Down to earth, but terrific food and a glass of wine; what a pair. This is the time to keep it light with the clean texture of Chateau Ste. Michelle Johannesburg Riesling with gentle undertones of apricot and pineapple. The chef feels that the Lindeman’s Bin 95 Sauvignon Blanc (Australia) is a good match with much of the lunch menu. Ravenswood Vintner’s Blend Zinfandel will suit those who go for a red, this one delivering blackberry, plum and fig accents.

When we’re gone and the chef sits down to eat with the restaurant manager, they’re having the Kobe Burger and a Chinese Chicken Salad (also on my faves list), which is rife with good ingredients and high end flavor.

Color me envious if you go because I always like being in this place.


FIRST CABIN

1221 W. Coast Highway

Newport Beach

(949) 630-4390

Here’s a place that is luxurious, yet simple and serene that captures the essence of The Balboa Bay Club & Resort. Panoramic bay views provide a stunning backdrop for a business or personal lunch. Chef Josef Lageder’s innovative approach to California cuisine,featuring fresh Pacific seafood, top-end prime beef and locally grown ingredients,keeps it in the top echelons of dining. Complement your meal with a selection from its extensive wine list, offering an array of fascinating vintages from around the world.

The chef told me that his ultimate meal from the menu would be Maine Lobster Bisque with lobster medallions and Ahi Tuna Tartar for starters. He would then enjoy eating the Pan-seared Maryland Crab Cakes and the briny fresh Chilean Sea Bass served on cremini mushrooms (these are small portobellos) and spoon leaf spinach, with a hit of sun-dried tomato aioli.

At lunch, customers often order the Crab and Artichoke Panini Sandwich with melted mozzarella and sided with California fruits. Also popular is Lobster and Bay Shrimp Salad with either avocado or papaya and the Mahi Mahi with macadamia crust and mango-papaya relish.

I love the wine list here as I can always find a wine that’s unique, affordable and finely tuned to the food I am eating. An excellent aperitif and perfect choice for any occasion would be a glass of the sparkling Col di Luna Spumante, Cuvee di Valmonte, from Italy with its floral aromas meeting apple and pears and its balanced body and acidity. I’ve introduced many foodies to the charms of Sancerre. Try the 2004 Domaine Fournier Vieilles Vignes Sancerre (Loire, France). It’s great with fresh fish and goat cheese because of its star fruit and melon aromas and slight minerality on the finish.

Another choice might be the 2006 Montes Alpha Syrah from the Colchagua Valley of Chile. It’s a genteel layering of black cherry and smoky spiciness over a substantial yet soft and velvety texture.

This is not about stopping at the bar and yet, you have to pass Duke’s Lounge on your way to and from the restaurant. So why not have a drink and spend a few more minutes admiring all those sweet yachts outside the windows?


HAMAMORI

3333 Bear St., Ste. 320

Costa Mesa

(714) 850-0880

The latest member of the Wasa family of restaurants is new and glamorous, but quite different from the others. It offers several menu options ranging from traditional to modern sushi and an eclectic array of cooked dishes inspired from Japanese comfort foods. Omakase dining,chefs select and create dishes on your behalf,also is an option here. As a result, customers can enjoy a wide cross section of flavors that would otherwise be difficult to experience within traditional dining styles.

Lunch diners seem to enjoy Hamamori’s Executive Sushi platter: An omakase (chef’s choice) selection of new generation sushi that is garnished and/or seasoned with an eclectic array of original sauces. Others are intent on their Hamamori Ozen,the lunch special at a prix fixe,including tasting portions of Kobe beef tataki (lightly seared and served with an apple sesame sauce), tamari-marinated black cod, assortment of sashimi and tempura, silky egg custard and a seasonal vegetable dish. Some might be having just the Tamari Marinated Black Cod (tamari is a rich type of soy sauce), sauteed and finished with warm Japanese salsa and Japanese citrus.

Sake or wine to drink? Since I don’t know all on their sake and wine lists, general manager Michael Kim and owner/chef James Hamamori were kind enough to suggest three of each. Sakes: Harushika Tokimeki Sparkling Sake (bottle only) is off-dry, crisp and slightly lower in alcohol. By the glass: Jyozen Mizunogotoshi is smooth and finishes with long hints of ripe melon and smoky undertones or the Ichinokura Himezen they tell me is reminiscent of a flowing river, the perfect food wine. Hey, I’m ordering it myself.

Wines suggested: 2007 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand), a cult classic, 2006 Albarino Adegas Morgadio Rias Biaxas (Spain) that’s brightly herbaceous, and from Italy, the 2006 LaCrima di Morro Superiore Luciando Landi, a finely balanced, soft red wine said to carry nuances of violets, rose petals and forest greens.


KIMERA

19530 Jamboree Road

Irvine

(949) 261-1222

This is the newest of the Ghoukassian family of restaurants (Bistango and Bayside are the others) and it diverts from the ultra sleekness of the other two in that it is a trendier destination for hip and curious diners who love avant garde venues. The food is best described as modern American/global fusion giving chef Chris Grodach leeway to update classic ingredients in artistic ways.

For me, this restaurant is a dash of joy in our vast restaurant world because even before I get to the food, the colorful, ultra modern vibe (think walls used as art and the thousands of feet of bamboo poles that form ceilings and some walls) is so visually stimulating.

At $18.75, its prix fixe two-course lunch is a real bargain. You even have a choice from many first and main courses. Very popular a la carte items are the Open Face Short Rib Sandwich (with aged cheddar and onion rings on Texas toast), Prawn Salad (organic greens, charred pineapple and coconut vinaigrette) and the Ciabatta Burger (an old classic on the earthy Italian bread).

Owner Marc Ghoukassian and the chef chimed in with their favorites for me and it seems we’d find the two of them at a quiet table having the aforementioned Short Rib Sandwich or the Duck Confit Pizza that joins caramelized onion, drunken goat cheese and the deliciously roasted duck atop a crispy crust. I’ll be having that duck pizza again soon myself.

Marc and I share some assessments on wine too. For a white, the Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough appellation in New Zealand) mingles sweet cut grass and floral aromas in a refreshing m & #233;lange. Marc is yet another who is an admirer of the Bridlewood, Syrah (Santa Ynez), a fine red wine that’s hit wine lists everywhere. Many of my readers know that I’ve trucked my way through many zinfandels. From this list, try Seghesio Red Zinfandel where the glass holds nicely woven threads of cassis, dark berries, stone fruit and oak.


THE LOFT

30801 South Coast Highway

Laguna Beach

(949) 715-6420

This room with ocean views enjoys a culinary following that appreciates the terrific inventive seasonal fare of chef John Cuevas.

The Montage Resort & Spa (where The Loft is), the room and the view comprise an idyllic atmosphere where genteel ambiance meets refined dining, right down to having a fromagier (cheese expert) help us select from an artisanal array of worldly cheeses. This is an ideal place for lunch where daytime views speak volumes of the greatness of the California lifestyle.

The chef, of course, will have to feed us before he can eat, but my question about his favorites brought forth the Melted Cheese and Spanish Chorizo, a zippy little number served with corn tortillas and tomatillo sauce, or the simplicity of the Iceberg Salad for starters. Lunch entrees he enjoys from his own menu: Grilled Vegetable Sandwich and Short Rib Ravioli with fried cipolini onions and a bit of potato broth.

I’d probably be sipping on a glass of wine while perusing the menu. Suggested are the Roederer Estate Brut sparkling wine from California’s Anderson Valley, a glass of the 2006 Anne Amie Pinot Gris from Oregon (vanilla and caramel meet sweet citrus in a clean, sufficiently rich white) or, from the eastern Santa Ynez Valley, the 2004 Curtis Vogelzang Vineyard Syrah. The latter parlays bright layers of black fruit, cherry and plum ending in a long, smooth finish.

Use these customer favorites as a guideline for what you might enjoy. Coconut Chicken and Pineapple Salad is made with delicate fris & #233;e greens and passion fruit jus as a light entree. I can vouch that the Slow-roasted Barbecued Pulled Pork is really delicious and tuna gets a trendy turn as it segues into the Cajun Ahi Sandwich adorned with cabbage salsa, Haas avocado and spiced cream.


LUCCA CAFE

6507 Quail Hill Parkway

Irvine

(949) 725-1773

This is a special, intimate place where the food, cooked in the Mediterranean spirit but filtered through a California prism, is ultra delicious and interesting, not to mention healthy. It uses organic and natural products as well as meat from animals that are raised wild or cage free.

Cathy and Elliott Pavlos opened the doors in the fall of 2005. She’s living her dream as a chef. After the rush, I can find this couple catching a moment to eat. On their table might be Cathy’s Asparagus, Chicken and Leek Pasta made with grilled chicken and vegetables and topped with lemon-feta cream sauce.

Best sellers at lunch include meatballs (made from certified Angus beef) that are an Italian dream and have become famous on their own. Made from Cathy’s grandmother’s recipe, these gems swim in a dense meat ragu called Sunday Sauce and it all cuddles so nicely on the bed of al dente pasta.

In another oft ordered item, Diestel free-range turkey meets apple wood-smoked bacon and garden fresh greens and tomatoes tucked into an herb-flavored wrap. Choice of soup, salad or seasonal fruit accompanies lunch entrees. Prix fixe menus at $19.75 can be pre-arranged. I must note that fresh seafoods and other proteins are gracefully presented as a trio of preparations on one plate in some instances.

What to sip with the good food? How about a glass of 2006 Licia Albarino from Spain that sports lush tropical fruit, bright acidity and a refreshingly clean finish? 2004 Palivou Red from the Nemea Valley of Greece delivers the taste of dried berries, rich earth and vanilla and is a medium bodied, mouth filling wine that is a good discovery. Consilience 2005 Syrah from California has distinct chocolate and cherry flavors and is a more outspoken wine that stands up to Cathy’s bolder and richer dishes.


MARCHE MODERNE

3333 Bristol St., #3001

Costa Mesa

(714) 434-7900

It’s French bistro perfection,beautiful and dreamy,as French as if we were in Paris, with a creative menu that changes daily. Considering that we can have a different lunch every day and at such comfortable prices, this is a genuine gem.

The food is French market inspired, definitely urban-chic fine dining. Chef Florent Marneau cooks, Amelia Marneau does pastries and hosts (the couple owns the restaurant) and a professional staff carries us through fantastic meals as we sink into the best of the Gallic world.

A prix fixe three-course lunch,with choice of entrees,is only $20. The full a la carte menu is also on hand. Guests galore savor Laurent’s Alsatian Tarte Flamb & #233; sporting caramelized onion, gruyere, ham and cr & #269;me fra & #238;che. Another favorite dish: Tagine of Scallops, which is gloriously Moroccan inspired with lemon confit, eggplant and zucchini.

Amelia and Florent tell me they are completely content eating Salade Compos & #233;e,a mix of cucumber, petit Basque cheese, tomato, avocado, hearts of palm and fresh chick peas. This is Amelia’s Sunday salad for their family at home and it is so good they decided to put it on the menu.

I join them in culinary heaven when eating the Pork Belly with Langoustine Prawns. The pork is cooked to melting tenderness and then crisped before being highlighted by blood orange emulsion and the prawns sauteed in beurre noisette, the whole thing looking as elegant as it tastes. They also mentioned the Lobster Salad and the Short Ribs as favorites.

The wine list is also a real joy,60% French and 40% international, all reasonably priced, with plenty of wines by the glass. Compelling is the word for the dry, lightly floral, earthy and mineral qualities in the Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Ch & #226;teauneuf Du Pape Blanc (Rhone Valley). Discover the charm of 2006 Sancerre from Sauvion in the Loire Valley (dry with citrus notes and terroir provenance) and for a red, the 2003 Patrick Lesec Gigondas delivers cherries, juicy plum and raspberry in a bright m & #233;lange.


MARIPOSA

601 Newport Center Drive

Newport Beach

(949) 467-3350

People forget about dining in Neiman Marcus, or they don’t even know that this terrific and supremely attractive restaurant is there. Up on the third level with fine views, we sit comfortably, peruse the international wine list and are happy that this place takes lunching seriously. Mariposa has an appetite for excellence in decor, service and food that everyone should be discovering. The result is that it’s a hot place for midday dining.

All guests are greeted with warm chicken consomm & #233; and a hot popover with strawberry butter, a tradition at all Neiman Marcus restaurants. Its most popular dish is the Mandarin Orange Souffl & #233; Plate. It has a scoop of famous Nieman Marcus chicken salad, fresh fruit, pumpkin-cranberry bread and a cold mandarin orange jello “souffl & #233;.” Another popular item is Grilled Shrimp Salad featuring a whole romaine heart, grilled and topped with three jumbo shrimp and a sprinkling of condiments. Miso Glazed Halibut also is one of its all time winners. The fresh fish changes with the seasons, but it always comes with baby bok choy, sake buttered carrots and a crispy rice cake. Chef Jason Mazur says that, like so many guests, he will often have the Grilled Shrimp Salad or the Glazed Halibut for his lunch.

And, here we are trying yet again to make it easy for you to order wine. They have a nice selection of wines by the glass and you might consider Laurenz V Singing Gr & #252;ner Veltliner (Austria). This white wine does just what its name says; it sings in your mouth with spritzy, clean flavors as pure as the Austrian air and water. Of course, I think lunch also is a nice time to sip a little champagne. The Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial Ros & #233; Champagne from Epernay, France, would make the meal a little more festive. Foley Syrah from Santa Rita Hills is acclaimed as a wine of finesse with blueberry, cassis and black cherry dancing around with a little sage and spice and then a little vanilla lurking in the finish. It’s my kind of wine.


MORTON’S THE STEAKHOUSE

1641 Sunflower Ave.

Santa Ana

(714) 444-4834

We might have newer restaurants but we can’t surpass this as a top-notch place,from ambiance to food to service,for a power lunch or a relaxing get-together. The very name of the restaurant evokes powerful images of good taste and a sense of comfort and privacy. It’s on every serious diner’s list. There’s something about this dining room that makes me so comfortable. Much can be ascribed to the staff’s rapport with customers, under the deft guidance of general manager Tom Innocenzi.

When in the mood for traditional food instead of the latest trend, have some quality soups, salads, sandwiches, daily specials and, of course, steak at Morton’s. All are perfectly proportioned and priced for lunch.

Let’s talk wine first because it’s good to sip one of these as you decide what to eat. Rieslings are the darlings of master wine drinkers and master sommeliers, and I am happy to see the public getting educated about them. Tom suggests 2006 Saint M Riesling (from Chateau Ste. Michelle, made by famed German winemaker Ernst Loosen) for its crisp, ripe fruit, medium-dry body and lively acidity. Another white: 2006 Canali-Trentino with gorgeous structure and woven flavors of lemon, pineapple and fig. 2004 Pico Madama Jumilla (Spain) is a bigger, more intense red wine featuring ripe, rich berry flavors.

Among favorite midday dishes here are the Stacked Prime NY Strip with tomato, purple onion and blue cheese vinaigrette. Guess what? The Prime Sirloin Burger is wildly popular as is the Not So Big Filet with Morton’s delicious Asian slaw and potato.

Tom and chef Paul Avila relax over starters of the amazing Colossal Shrimp Cocktail, Tuna Tartare (with a fantastic hint of Thai cream) and the Baked Five Onion Soup crusted with Swiss cheese. As for entrees, Tom goes for that Sirloin Burger, while the chef’s unabashed favorite is the Boneless Prime Rib (Thursdays only). Gina Mauri, banquet manager, might find time to join them and tuck into a Grilled Colossal Shrimp Salad with hearts of palm and asparagus.


MOTIF

One Monarch Beach Resort

Dana Point

(949) 234-3200

This is a warm, hospitable and lovely room where panoramic ocean views,especially from the patio,and five-star service add even more panache. The cuisine, by way of executive chef Frederic Castan, is reminiscent of a European style cafe, featuring an eclectic array of dishes. I’ve known Frederic for two decades and will vouch for his extensive culinary talents.

It’s a perfect food and view setting for lunch (located in the St. Regis Monarch Beach), a place where lingering is common, but the restaurant is mindful of getting you back to work in a timely manner.

Wine suggestions first. Order a glass of Broglia Gavi di Gavi La Meirana (Piedmont), quite an elegant white with seamless fruit and floral aroma to go with seafood and light meats, sandwiches and salads. El Chaparral’s Vega Sindoa Old Vines Grenache (Spain) is a fine red wine with provenance and good complexity as it comes from very old vines. I’ve been doing a lot of cabs lately and suggest if that’s your fancy, try the Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon that is a good example of a sleek, mouth-filling, approachable California cab.

Of dishes the public often orders, I feel the Pan-seared Hawaiian Kona Kampachi is a must. It’s a new high grade fish farmed in Hawaii that is rich in Omega-3s, and has a very mild, unfishy flavor. It’s not a surprise that the American Kobe Beef Sliders are popular. They come three ways for a variety of comfort food tastes on one plate. Ginger and Shoyu-glazed Salmon is wrapped within a cilantro tortilla with Asian greens and wasabi-scented rice on the side.

Chef Frederic likes to sit down to Crispy Rolls of Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Goat Cheese, alongside organic arugula and watercress. One of his favorite lunches is the Warm Tomato, Beet and Goat Cheese Tart with wild arugula salad drizzled with truffle vinaigrette. Two additional dishes he enjoys are Vietnamese-spiced Tiger Prawns with Asian-tinged accompaniments and the Panzanella Salad comprised of mozzarella cheese, white beans and tear- drop tomatoes.


MOZAMBIQUE

1740 S. Coast Highway

Laguna Beach

(949) 715-7777

This place is just plain fun and besides the relaxing good looks and slight tinge of exotic faraway places, it’s where we find a cosmopolitan mix of American and California cuisine and certain dishes indigenous to the country of Mozambique, located in South Africa. The latter are complementary to the American palate, consisting of delicious meats and seafood flavored with Peri-Peri, a ground chile spice. Various sauces are the underpinning of the dishes.

Sit upstairs in the Shabeen Lounge with ocean views or downstairs in the dining rooms and settle in for the Durban Curry (high on my list of favorites) made from boneless, marinated lamb served on Basmati rice with complementary condiments. This is a favorite of the chef, too. As a bit of history, this curry originated along the East African coast in the ports of Lorenzo Marques and Durban to the South.

Wraps gain midday attention with their cloak made from pita bread and stuffings of aromatic chicken, steak or shrimp. Of course, a Kobe burger is a fast seller wherever it’s offered. Both customers and the chef like the charms of Chicken Zin and Shrimp Zin. Choose your protein and it will come grilled and basted with Peri-Peri sauce atop crispy flatbread with a hit of pico de gallo, some salad greens and Peri-Peri dipping sauce.

I feel like you should match this food with one of the South African wines on their international wine list. That means a glass of Fleur de Cap Pinotage, a New World version of Pinot based on the cross between Cinsault and Pinot grapes that was created in South Africa almost a century ago. From obscure and odd, Pinotage has evolved into a wine that’s been embraced in major wine competitions in the past two decades. Mozambique’s owner and partner, Tony Shill, would gladly lead you to another South African wine, Alto Rouge Cabernet. It’s a rich and distinguished wine with smoky, dark fruit flavors that I love with this food. If I can’t pry you from California and the common, then Acacia Chardonnay is always impressive.


PELICAN GRILL

22800 South Pelican Hill Road

Newport Coast

(949) 467-6800

Pelican Grill is dazzling to see, with all its Tuscan-Palladian glamour,not at all what one could envision as a golf club grill and bar. But that’s all the better for all of us to enjoy it at all times. Best of all is that it’s affordable and friendly.

Chef Thomas Ryan squeezes in quick meals and opts for something light such as his Spicy Tortilla Soup, adrift with Irvine Ranch avocados, the requisite chicken and hints of tomato, horseradish and lemon. He also enjoys the simplicity of something like a burger, in this case the 10-ounce Prime Sirloin Beef Hamburger that denotes everything a burger should be.

The whole menu is selling well, but three items seem to be very popular for lunch. Shaved Prime Rib Steak Style Sandwich is served on a wonderful hand-crafted pretzel roll with horseradish mustard and tobacco onions and comes with choice of fries or salad greens. Tempura Red King Crab Classic Louis also features prawns, sun-ripened tomato, organic lettuce and creamy brandy dressing.

Tequila-brined Chicken Club comes on grilled cheese bread spread with cilantro-lime aioli and stacked with chicken, avocado, bacon and given a chipotle drizzle.

These wines will hopefully guide you for accompaniments to your food. There’s Consilience Viognier (Santa Barbara) that has sweetness on the nose setting up an expectation for an off-dry wine, but instead it gives way to rounded and expansive fruit flavors captured in a dry style.

Orogeny Green Valley Pinot Noir is a wonderfully balanced pinot with bright cherry and blackberry notes. Orwin Swift “The Prisoner” wine from Napa Valley is on several lists now due to its award winning (Wine Spectator Top 10 Wines of the year) blend of mainly zinfandel, syrah and cabernet. The lush berry flavors complement the meaty dishes on the menu here.


PINOT PROVENCE

686 Anton Blvd.

Costa Mesa

(714) 444-5900

With beautifully romantic Proven & #231;al decor, enclosed patios and intimate dining rooms, Pinot Provence is truly a welcome escape to the sun-soaked borders of Southern France. The contemporary French-Mediterranean cuisine features a changing selection of globally inspired dishes, and the extensive wine list offers a perfect pairing to any dish.

They are really customer conscious with their lunch options, offering three prix fixe choices in addition to a full menu. For lighter and health-conscious eaters, there’s the three-course Spa Menu at $25, a Business Menu consists of three courses for $26 and the Express Menu for those with a time limit is two courses for $19.

It’s good that I asked them to tell me some best-selling items from the a la carte menu. I’m so used to this food and so attached to the wonderful preparations that are the trademark of chef Nicholas Weber, I couldn’t choose just three. But, they suggested if you want to follow the crowd, think about these. Ahi Tuna Salad, done rare with a bed of greens and other complements. The Lobster Club is a lot more than a sandwich: brioche for the bread and some de rigueur club items cuddling with the lobster. The New York Steak with pommes frites is also a customer favorite.

Wines they suggest to go with the food include the refreshing Marc Bredif Vouvray, with its wafting aromas of apple, quince and honeydew melon. Ros & #233; should not be overlooked. The Corbieres Fontsainte Gris de Gris Ros & #233; is light, yet full-flavored with a crisp taste falling between a sauvignon blanc and a viognier with slight overtones of strawberry. Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon is recommended as a fruit forward, well-balanced wine with dark ripe berries and medium tannins mingling in the complexity.

If and when the chef finds time for his meal, he tells me that he would have either the Lobster Club mentioned above or the Diver Scallops,which I also love,sided with a marvelous cauliflower fondue featuring the specialty spice vadouvan.


THE QUIET WOMAN

3224 E. Coast Highway

Corona del Mar

(949) 640-7440

We sometimes forget the good food and comfortable ambiance that’s played steadily in restaurants of long standing. So many new places steal the thunder. I’m making a case for everyone to get back to The Quiet Woman, a cozy respite where we find terrific sophisticated comfort food delivered with caring presentation.

When I asked owner Lynne Campbell for a few items from her own menu that she loves, she responded with the following for appetizers: Cheese To Die For (four artisan cheeses with sliced apples, caramelized pear and mustard chutney) and the Ahi Taster (seared rare yellow fin sashimi with sesame-soy glaze, Thai chile dots and jasmine rice). For entrees, she’d go for Goat Cheese Souffl & #233; Salad and City Sliders. The souffl & #233; salad is a new take with the goat cheese and chive inflection of the souffl & #233; playing off an endive-watercress salad dancing with sliced fruit and candied walnuts. The sliders reveal Black Angus beef adorned with brie, caramelized onion and sided with truffle and herbed fries.

Guests love the Black Canyon Salad, Toasted Sesame Salmon Salad and Grilled Swordfish. The Black Canyon is comprised of a mesquite grilled sirloin that’s fanned over baby greens with marinated tomatoes, red onion, pepper confetti and crumbled bleu cheese. Toasted salmon salad finds the fresh fish glazed with a touch of sesame and soy and served atop mixed greens tossed in a fine ginger-vanilla vinaigrette. The house specialty swordfish is popular midday tucked into a sandwich or served as a taco plate.

Wine by the glass suggestions: 2006 Whitehall Lane Sauvignon Blanc that brings melon, citrus and peach to the palate; 2005 Patz & Hall Durrell Vineyard Chardonnay is indicative of the fresh fruit, cleansing acidity chards that are perennially popular and the 2006 Orin Swift The Prisoner wine has zin, cab and syrah as the basic grapes resulting in a beautifully complex wine.


RISTORANTE MAX

1617 Westcliff Drive

Newport Beach

(949) 515-8500

One of OC’s newer Italian restaurants, this fine looking place delights the discriminating palate appreciative of the more refined cuisine from the Campania region of Italy. Bringing the recipes and artistic dishes representative of the Amalfi Coast, owner and chef Massimo Carro sets the stage with an art gallery style decor and cooks caringly with pristine ingredients. From my perspective, the food’s divine.

Customers often order Ravioli Positano, a rich version with a refined filling of spinach and ricotta. Another best seller is the Gnocchi Melanzane e Mozzarella, which are delightfully light, homemade gnocchi with Italian eggplant, mozzarella and a deftly crafted tomato sauce.

Lasagna lovers order the fresh pasta that’s strewn with fresh mozzarella, sausage, meatballs and ricotta bound with Carro’s signature tomato sauce.

Reminiscences of his Italian hometown are revisited when he eats the Fiori di Zucchine (fresh zucchini blossoms stuffed with two kinds of cheese, salami and basil and crisped tempura style). He also adores the Prosciutto e Mozzarella composed of the finest imported Parma prosciutto and fresh buffalo mozzarella.

That said for appetizers, the following two dishes from the menu are special to him as second courses: Paccheri con Pomodorini e Basilico (very large pasta tubes dressed with a tomato-basil sauce and fresh parmigiano reggiano cheese) and Scialatielli con Zucchine (traditional homemade pasta from Naples served with zucchini, extra virgin olive oil, onion and basil).

I’ve had some interesting Italian wines from their list. By the glass, these three will do well with lunch. Falanghine is a smooth white wine from the Campania region of Italy with a nice fruity body. Greco di Tufo is another white wine from the same region that has a drier, but full-flavored body. Finally, Aglianico is a richer red wine that is earthy, dark fruit forward and has a good acid balance.


THE RITZ

880 Newport Center Drive

Newport Beach

(949) 720-1800

It has a classic beauty that is nothing less than compelling. Service and food have always been paramount passions. Owner Freddie Glusman is often table-hopping to greet his guests. It’s also remarkable that the chef of more than 20 years, Lupe Camerena, still guides the fine efforts in the kitchen.

Friends gather, business deals are hammered out and special occasions happen all at the same time. Your appetite will perk up when considering either the Mariner Salad (an eloquent affair with a main feature of fresh Maine lobster, gulf prawns and Dungeness crab) or the Classic Cobb with freshly roasted chicken, lettuce, tomatoes, avocado, bleu cheese, egg, bacon and croutons, the whole thing tossed tableside. Change the midday dining pace with Steak Diane made of medallions of pan-seared pepper-crusted filet mignon deglazed with cognac. Veggies, delicious Ritz potatoes and onion straws complete the package.

Have a glass of Brassfield High Serenity Ranch Pinot Grigio (medium bodied, crisp and dry with light spice and a clean finish) or the sophisticated Groth Sauvignon Blanc made without oak, which allows the flavors of dry pears, lemon and pineapple to wander through its textured layers. Several times lately, I’ve had the Bridlewood Syrah (Central Coast, Santa Ynez) for my red wine. It’s a m & #233;lange of dark fruit, a bit of smoky cedar, flower and chocolate tinges and just the right amount of oak.

Lupe and Freddie have their favorites from the lunch menu. They’d go for Stone Crab Claws served cracked with a spicy Dijon dipping sauce and the Mixed Seafood “Martini” of gulf shrimp, Dungeness crab and Maine lobster for appetizers. A plate of Osso Buco (oven braised veal shank served with fettuccine pasta and veal jus) would be one of their entrees. Cold Poached Salmon consisting of chilled fresh Atlantic salmon (poached in a Chardonnay court-bouillon with dill sauce and a signature root slaw side would be their other choice.


ROYAL KHYBER

1621 W. Sunflower (in South Coast Plaza Village)

Santa Ana

(714) 436-1010

I have introduced so many people to the charms of modern Indian food via this restaurant and its hands-on owners, Arun and Urmil Puri. When our holiday shopping was all done only days before the end of last year, we treated ourselves to dinner here,just the two of us to breathe deeply, relax completely, dine on food we sometimes crave and let the stress drift away in this romantic, lovely and semi-exotic setting.

The food is authentic and healthy. My biggest smiles come when I introduce novices to this food and they come away amazed and loving it after having thought it was a world of hot spices and dense curries. Far from the truth.

This is a fine change-up for lunch, a fantastic way to do something interesting. Loyalists order Tilapia Fish Masala comprising fish fillets sauteed with tikka masala sauce (a mix of yogurt and spices), served as a complete meal with aromatic rice, vegetables, fresh fruit and naan bread. Tandoori Chicken is world and locally famous for its great depth of flavor. The chicken is marinated before hitting the searing hot tandoori oven, which then seals in the juices and adds the smoky, roasted flavor we love. It comes sizzling to the table with onions and green peppers surrounding it. Spicy Tandoori Kebabs sell big time because they offer both chicken and lamb cubes in a tangy melody of spices; it’s also served as a complete meal.

On Friday, there is a buffet lunch as well as the a la carte menu, with the buffet offering a fine opportunity to taste many things. I asked Arun what he’d likely be having for his late lunch on any given day and he mentioned the Tandoori Chicken and Tandoori Kebabs.

This restaurant has a capable wine list and we’ve found many wines, mostly from California, that match well with the spices used in Indian cooking. This is also a cuisine that loves being paired with beer. As for wines, try a glass of Sonoma-Cutrer, Russian River Chardonnay, Raymond Reserve Napa Valley Merlot or Dancing Bull Zinfandel from Sonoma.


SAM & HARRY’S

900 Newport Center Drive

Newport Beach

(949) 729-6900

This two-year-old place is one of the great restaurants in OC. Famous in Washington, D.C., and now at our doorstep, we lack the politicos to fill the seats of this primarily steak and seafood house but that means we get dibs on reservations and the marvelous food.

It’s a good looking room with a separate cocktail lounge that’s also very high on my best places list. When the suave service kicks in, the impressive wine list is presented and the delicious food is set before us, we know we’re in the right place.

The Build Your Own Salad Bar is perfect for lunch. Plenty of veggies, lettuces, protein accompaniments and condiments make it one of the most impressive, so it’s a high seller. One should consider the Chilean Sea Bass that sits on a bed of risotto and takes on a quasi-tropical demeanor with its pineapple-cranberry relish. Chicken Bruschetta Sandwich pleases many with marinated chicken breast, buffalo mozzarella, tomatoes & fresh basil snuggling together on a warm toasted baguette.

Chef Adrien Sbrana can make a complete meal from that salad bar and he also loves sitting down to a bowl of the Fresh Roasted Red Pepper and Crab Soup, to which I add my recommendation. It’s one of the most delicious soups to be found.

Let’s look at some interesting wines that will enhance lunch. Try a sparkling wine, as in the fine NV Taltarni Brut Rose, Tache (Australia) with rose petal, peach, apricot, red berry and nut flavors. 2005 Domaine de Nizas is a ros & #233; cuvee from France with an expressive bouquet of red berry fruits, marshmallow notes and minerality,a very nice midday sip. Then, there’s the crisp 2006 Cecchetto Pinot Grigio, Piave, Italia with good melon and pear marching above a blanket of light citrus and hay.


SAPPHIRE LAGUNA

1200 S. Coast Highway

Laguna Beach

(949) 715-9888

This is a beautiful and comfortable experience featuring an innovative menu, fun cocktail scene, charming patio with an ocean view and always a sense of conviviality. Owner/chef Azmin Ghahreman takes us on a global culinary tour via his own work experiences in many places abroad. The adjacent Sapphire Pantry features gourmet foods to go, including marvelous artisanal cheeses and unique condiments.

Lunch is a bright spot here and there are many customer favorites. One is merely called The Lunch Box (a divine choice). Featured are five different dishes in a red bento box,curry dish of the day, sauteed jumbo shrimp with handmade spinach-ricotta tortellini in a spectacular garlic milk sauce, two signature salads (Southern fried chicken and the Must Have Caesar) and the addictive home-fried sage-rosemary sea salt potato chips.

Another is Pan-seared Barramundi (delicate white fish with Caf & #233; du Paris butter, served with a generous portion of truffle fries and a salad of fris & #233;e and haricot vert) and a third is the Kobe Beef Cheeseburger adorned with white cheddar cheese, caramelized onions, tomato and arugula, plus garlic fries.

Azmin likes to relax with his Kahlua Pulled Pork Quesadilla stuffed full with shredded Hawaiian style smoked and roasted pork, Oaxaca cheese and confit of onion. He’s also fond of the Thai Lettuce Wrap consisting of wok-fried Jidori chicken, rice noodles, carrots, bean sprouts, tofu and cucumber to be tucked into the crisp lettuce leaves. Peanut and tamarind sauces are served on the side. He also goes for the aforementioned barramundi fish and those spinach-ricotta tortelloni.

Lots of wines by the glass to choose from. Here is a trio. For a white: Seebrich Riesling, a Kabinett with relatively low alcohol and crisp fruity flavors,the perfect lunch wine. Then try a ros & #233; wine: Domaine Houchart’s Provence Ros & #233; is versatile with fresh red fruit flavors and dryness make it a match for almost any food. A fine red to go with the Kobe burger or other more substantial fare is the Tempranillo, Sierra Cantabria Rioja, with reasonable alcohol and ample richness.


TAPS FISH HOUSE & BREWERY

101 E. Imperial Highway

Brea

(714) 257-0101

There are other doable lunch restaurants in the area but it’s hard for me to pass up a meal at Taps with its special New Orleans architecture, warmth, conviviality and good food. Owners Joe and Michelle Manzella took a dream and proved they are worthy restaurateurs.

There are so many items to be recommended for lunch. Perhaps a few of these favorites will entice you. The Dungeness Crab and Shrimp Louie Salad is a classic with the shellfish atop shredded lettuce, avocado, cucumber, hard-boiled egg and tomato. There’s a bit of gourmet twist on the Pan-roasted Marinated Chilean Sea Bass since it’s served on Japanese rice and sauteed spinach and accompanied on the side by a delicious red, green and yellow pepper jam. I have to smile when encountering the Drunken Mahi Mahi because it speaks of much good taste on one plate. The fish, atop a tomato risotto, is lightly blackened and splashed with tequila. Who would expect an accompaniment of crab tostadas on the side?

If you’re curious about what chef Michael Doctulero would eat when he finds time, he tells me it is either Seared and Glazed Yellowfin Tuna (with sauteed spinach, toasted macadamia nuts, seasonal vegetable and Japanese rice) or the Asian Pear Salad composed of tender butter lettuce and lavender vinaigrette with toasted almonds, Asian pears and gentle drizzles of pumpkin seed oil. I’ll list this salad as one of my favorites too.

Wines, beers and beverage-matching dinners are well conceived here. There’s a reason why the word “brewery” is part of the name. The hand-crafted beers and the brew master, Victor Novak, have won many top awards.

But we’re talking about a glass of wine with lunch. Sokol Blosser, Evolution #9 (Oregon) is a must, an extraordinary proprietary blend from nine white varietals. Newton Claret: The winery name says it all and I’m a big fan of Coppola “Directors Cut” Zinfandel for a fruity red.


VUE

25135 Park Lantern

Dana Point

(949) 487-7555

This fine dining room of South County sort of caught us off guard. We liked it a lot when it debuted just under two years ago but now it’s better than ever. It’s the home of superior forward thinking California cuisine that has swayed me and amazed an array of our friends. With a charmingly modern ambiance, this indoor/outdoor venue with fantastic bluff views of the Pacific offers a midday vacation dining experience. This is definitely a dining room that everyone should know.

Executive chef David Scalise and chef de cuisine for Vue, Anton Cossi, selected three wines by the glass that they felt would complement their lunch food. Francis Coppola Bianco Pinot Grigio is brimming with crisp texture and plenty of fruity aroma, including some earthy notes adding to the complexity. Saint M Riesling is getting press and showing up on more wine lists because of its easy to take medium-dry, fruit-driven, ripe flavors. Acacia Pinot Noir is medium-bodied wine with dark fruit flavors and a hint of oak finish, great with fish and poultry dishes.

I asked the chefs for best selling lunch items to better guide you. Seems the Japanese Fish Sandwich (on a Kaiser roll with sweet Thai chile slaw) and the Untraditional Club Sandwich that takes the turkey, bacon and Swiss combo to a new plateau are on the popularity list. Copper River Salmon with crawfish pea risotto is also a best seller.

Chefs’ choices: They would order the Jumbo Lump Crab and Shrimp Salad (tossed with butter lettuce, romaine hearts, red onion and tomato) and an Ahi Salad (one of its low-fat, carb-conscious, low-cholesterol offerings) featuring seared rare tuna. I’ve had this and love the mango puree, pine nuts, cucumber, daikon sprouts and mixed greens that round out the plate.


THE WINERY RESTAURANT & WINE BAR

2647 Park Ave.

Tustin

(714) 258-7600

There’s no denying that this has been a hot spot since its opening last August, so why not have an impressive lunch amid these good-looking surroundings? It’s a case of classic steak house meeting modern architecture for a brighter ambiance strewn with fine furnishing. This restaurant is a win-win with cosseting service under the direction of managing partner J.C. Clow and contemporary California food,with touches of Pacific Rim seasonings,by acclaimed chef partner Yvon Goetz.

Consider this a place for lunch with great food and wine where the attitude is great and there’s pretentiousness. Also notable, 52 half-bottles of wine on the menu, a real winner.

There’s a special prix fixe lunch menu for $25 that offers choice of appetizer, entree and dessert or artisanal cheese plate. The a la carte menu is set out beautifully at both lunch and dinner with several matching wines suggested for whatever food you choose.

In an abbreviation of wine suggestions, here are some to consider. Tangent Viognier is lovely with floral, orange blossom nose and a nice, clean, crisp finish; DO Ferreiro Albarino, an interesting wine that’s a cross between a sauvignon blanc and a riesling,vibrant, youthful and crisp with great acidity; and Robert Weil Halbtrocken Kabinett Riesling (I’m crazy about this wine) is half-dry with forward apple and white peach aromas and beautiful lingering finish.

Tempting lunches: Grand Cru Burger of American Kobe beef with caramelized onions and other choice accompaniments, Pan-seared halibut and Manila clams with potatoes and veggies, Prime New York Steak Frites that includes a grilled Harris Ranch prime New York with “real” fries.

The chef finds comfort in his Alsatian Pizza studded with cr & #269;me fra & #238;che, apple wood smoked bacon, gruy & #269;re and onion or the Grilled Portobello Mushroom Salad. He’s also in tune with the public’s favorites, the aforementioned halibut and clams and New York steak and fries.


ZOV’S BISTRO

17440 E. 17th St.

Tustin

(714) 838-8855

Hard to believe that Zov Karamardian’s original bistro, cafe and bakery (she has satellite restaurants now) is more than 20 years old. The all-encompassing complex retains a fresh and modern look and carries forth a colorful Mediterranean/California spirit in both style and substance. The food is Mediterranean influenced American food brought to a contemporary level.

It is happily served to a very loyal clientele. Prominent politicians, deal makers, entertainers and common folks dine here. It is an interesting place for a business or personal lunch.

Zov herself, like all restaurateurs and chefs, eats at odd times, after the customers have long gone. She likes to begin a meal with Tabbouleh (the classic mix of chopped parsley, bulgur wheat, tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions, olive oil and lemon juice). She also opts for Sauteed Calamari Rings in a white wine cream sauce perfumed with garlic, fresh herbs and tomatoes and a third favorite of hers is the Chicken Paillard with parmesan crust, goat cheese and the Mediterranean Plate that features several specialties of the whole Med region.

Zov has a couple of wines she suggests to her lunchtime diners. From the fine wine country of the Willamette Valley in Oregon, she recommends Cardwell Hill Cellars Pinot Gris with its refreshing aromas of citrus and pear tinged with hints of honey and a slight flintiness that loves being paired with salads, seafood and chicken. She’s yet another one recommending the Bridlewood Central Coast Syrah, silky and rich with good fruit and flower aromatics and those nuances of chocolate.

As for the customers, some of their favorites are Grilled Lamb Sandwich with a plethora of accompaniments, Soujouk Arrabbata Pasta (penne with dried Armenian beef sausage and spicy tomato herb shitake mushroom sauce) and the Moroccan Salmon Salad taking advantage of wild King salmon served with baby mixed lettuces, tomato, m’jaddarah (caramelized onions and lentils), feta cheese and balsamic vinaigrette. It’s absolutely yummy.

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